Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. South Australia 3,325 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 135.700462, -30.865176

Description:

South Australia has a rich history of rockclimbing. The main text cited and used for this region is:

Badenoch, P.R. and Adams, L.M., 2011, Rockclimbing around Adelaide.

For current South Australian climbing news: http://climbingclubsouthaustralia.asn.au/

1.1. Flinders Ranges 1,057 routes in Region

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 138.769981, -31.727421

1.1.1. Point Bonney 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 138.625210, -31.586270

1.1.2. Moonarie 620 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 138.620664, -31.612943

Unique Features And Strengths:

Awesome trad climbing in an amazing desert setting.

Description:

Moonarie is one of Australia's most spectacular crags, situated as it is on the rim of Wilpena Pound, surrounded by sweeping deserts views. It is easily South Australia's premier crag, with superb rock and loads of fantastic quality routes. Isolated as it is, it is very much an adventure destination, and a worthy stop on the Australian rock climbing tour.

Moonarie offers a varied trad climbing experience, with a good range of intermediate to hard routes. There is very little in the way of sport routes, but the trad climbing is fantastic, the quality of the rock makes it ideal for placing gear. The rock has a similar feel to Arapiles, with the same mixture of natural gear and the occasional bolt. Although there are some easy routes, Moonarie is not a beginners crag. Moonarie is really an intermediate to advanced climbers cliff. The climbing starts in the low teens and stretches up into the high 20's. The climbing varies from single pitch excursions to long multipitch routes, that wind their way up to the rim of the pound.

One of the most striking features of Moonarie is the famed Great Wall, a spectacular stretch of rich red vertical rock 50 metres high, that offers some of the best climbing on the crag. The Great Wall is the home of possibly the best 19 in the land, Down Wind of Angels. Down Wind of Angels is only the beginning of the good routes on this wall, there is also Outside Chance 16, the amazing looking Dryland 22, and a host of other starred routes in the low to mid 20's. The Great Wall is only one area of Moonarie, there are other parts of the crag which are just as spectacular, the Ramparts, Flying Buttress and The Great Chimneys area. Like Arapiles, Moonarie is a crag which is rich in classics.

Perhaps more than any other area Moonarie is a crag which is best visited in exactly the right season, otherwise you end up either very hot or very cold. The two recommended times of the year to visit are between March and May, and September to October. Wilpena Pound is a land of extremes. Visited at the right time of the year though, Moonarie is a rich and incredible climbing experience, well worth the long drive to get there.

As at 2014 there is NO mobile phone reception at the campground or the cliff. You can get 1-2 bars of reception on the Telstra network ABOVE the crag, but only above Gargoyle Wall (100-200m southeast of the top of the main descent gully). There is full coverage on Telstra at Wilpena, 15 minutes drive away.

Access Issues:

National Park

Approach:

450 km north of Adelaide. From Hawker drive north on Wilpena Road for about 45km towards Flinders Range national park. Turn left onto Arkaroo Rock Road (signposted). About 700m turn left onto a rough track. 500m or so down this you'll arrive at the campground.

There is also a bus that travels between Adelaide and Wilpena Pound.

From the campground walk across the creek then step over a fence on stepping stones. A 45 minute walk uphill gets you to top camp, in between Checkers Wall and Flying Buttress. Most people stash gear at top camp each night, which reduces the walk to 25 minutes.

Where To Stay:

There is a campsite at the base of the track up to Moonarie, which is on private land, so it is very important to leave this area in a respectable state. There is no toilet so BRING A SHOVEL AND BURY YOUR POO (it is slow digging the rocky ground so dig a deep multi-use hole to save being caught out if in a rush). It is also possible to stay at Top Camp, right beneath the crag, although it is a bit of a walk to drag all your gear up there. If you desire more facilities, it is possible to camp at Wilpena Pound, or find accommodation in the closest town, Hawker.

1.1.3. Rawnsley Bluff 134 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Aid

Long/Lat: 138.610431, -31.622180

1.1.4. Mount Eyre 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.189600, -31.803322

Unique Features And Strengths:

A mini-escarpment and a few boulders near Mt Eyre.

Description:

The buttresses along the top of Mt Eyre are scrappy so this little outcrop nearby was investigated. The rock was solid Flinders quartzite and the short cracks proved irresistible. We chose the safer option of climbing rather than bouldering. The blocs are probably worth checking out if a boulderer is in the area, but we're not putting Mt Eyre forward as an exciting new alternative to The Knobs or Moonarie!

Access Issues:

The crag appears to be just within the western boundary of the Yappala Indigenous Protected Area, established in 2014. As such, future visits will require permission from the managers of this IPA.

Approach:

Take Yappala Rd west of Hawker and continue towards Neuroodla. The outcrop can be seen from the road and is at the base of the ridge stretching north-east from the prow of Mt Eyre (6km further on). About 25 km from Hawker, 20 minutes walk from car.

1.1.5. Buckaringa 165 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 138.045165, -32.110492

Access Issues:

1.1.6. Argadells 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 138.028018, -32.141700

1.1.7. Warren Gorge 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 138.010405, -32.185977

Unique Features And Strengths:

Good rock, child-friendly, no walk-in.

Description:

As you head through the gorge east-to-west, the climbing is on the large buttress to the right of the road and the narrow breadknife outcrop to the left of the road. Lucky Charm to Free Fred are on the front of the buttress facing the road. Emu Arse Lip Balm is on the west wall of the buttress. Succession is the steep corner between the front of the buttress and its east wall. Lepus Offus DS to Introduced Vermin are on the neat east wall (aka Lepus Wall). Noah's Ark to Lateral Thinking are on the west wall of the breadknife and Manhattan is on its east wall.

1.1.8. Mt Benjamin 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 138.027482, -32.191902

1.1.9. Devil's Peak 72 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 137.991247, -32.414980

1.1.10. Gibraltar Rock 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 138.159729, -32.843324

1.2. Eyre Peninsula 68 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 135.790315, -33.428337

1.2.1. Red Rock 39 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 137.431762, -32.730261

Unique Features And Strengths:

Access to this cliff was closed in 2013. Previously it offered good climbing on solid sandstone.

Description:

Semi arid saltbush pastoral country is not where you would expect to find a quality cliff, but this little outcrop offers some solid rock.

Hot summer days are sure to be unpleasant with much of the cliff facing north. More pleasant climbing can be had on days of moderate temperature. There are some sectors facing east and west which can provide shade in the morning and evening.

Bring some bolt plates for the harder routes.

For more information, refer to Nick Neagle's guide to the Flinders Ranges.

Access Issues:

Access to the cliff was closed in 2013. The cliff is part of the expanded Cultana Defence Training Area. See http://www.defence.gov.au/id/cultana/default.asp for more info.

Approach:

From Port Augusta head SW towards Whyalla.

After 24km pass the turnoff of the Eyre Highway (Ceduna, WA, etc.) Continue straight on (S) towards Whyalla.

11.9km S of here and immediately after crossing Myall Creek, turn R to Roopena homestead.

11km along this road the cliff can be seen off to the left (east) behind a locked gate and the Roopena homestead is a further 2km on to the west.

Possession of the 1:50k map of the area (PANDURRA) may be of assistance.

Ethic:

Although the environment may appear harsh and invulnerable, it takes an incredibly long time to recover from any abuse. Keep to tracks, preserve the environment and the rock. No retro-bolting or chipping.

Bad fashion will be a non-issue as you are most likely to have the cliff to yourself.

History:

Climbers have been visiting the area since the late 60s. Many of the routes (or possible lines) were marked with large letters on the cliff (many of which remain.) Subsequent routes names have often taken names beginning with these letters.

1.2.2. Mt Greenly 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 135.370675, -34.348371

1.2.3. Tcharkuldu 24 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 135.186523, -32.850011

1.2.4. Gawler Ranges 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

1.3. Mid North 89 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 138.727646, -33.795654

1.3.1. Booborowie 61 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 138.769773, -33.422532

Unique Features And Strengths:

One of the only cliffs in the mid north

Description:

Due to the fact that this crag is seldom visited, most of it is covered in moss, except a couple of routes which feature pigeon poo.

Watch out for loose rock too!

Access Issues:

Private land, phone before accessing

1.3.2. Bee Vee Face 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
Top Rope, Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 138.920582, -33.666438

Unique Features And Strengths:

Climbing at Bee Vee will make climbing anywhere else seem great.

Description:

An old slate quarry of mostly loose, chalky and thinly-bedded rock. The wall is close to vertical. There are no fixed anchors at the top and the nearest useful tree, bush or boulder is at least 100m from the edge. Star droppers may be useful but the ground is rocky.

Access Issues:

It would be council land. There is an ancient "Keep Out" sign near the road.

Approach:

Driving north through Burra, look for the obvious cutting through the hill on your right before the golf course turn off. 3 minute walk to climbs.

Where To Stay:

Burra

Ethic:

The fixed protection is either rusty old carrots or huge metal spikes (presumably used for aid).

History:

The climbs were 'established' by 'Dave Jennings' which may be a nom de plume to save someone's climbing career.

1.3.3. Neagle's Rock 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 138.606353, -33.848717

Unique Features And Strengths:

Few other options near Clare.

Description:

A small piece of rock about 8m long and up to 5m high. The rock is fairly hard, nobbly and almost ironstone like - it would clean up quite well. Two or three thin, steep eliminates remain which might go at V3/4. Also a worthwhile sit start.

Access Issues:

Council land I think.

Approach:

3 minutes walk from the Neagle's Rock carpark. The carpark is 3 minutes drive from the main road through Clare (look for sign).

Where To Stay:

Clare.

Ethic:

Must have been climbed previously, but no evidence of cleaning or chalk.

History:

Zero.

1.3.4. Truro 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
Top Rope, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 139.195345, -34.401411

Description:

Located in disused slate quarry, one main face.

Approach:

Park in the highway pullout on the South side of Sturt Hwy. Cross the road and up a small fire track to quarry.

History:

The area is renowned for the Truro murders of five young women in 1978 and 1979, hence some of the explicit route names.

1.3.5. Mid North Bridges 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 138.753032, -34.444104

1.4. Adelaide 1,444 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 138.643501, -35.032993

Description:©

Adelaide residents have plenty to choose from for local climbing.

Adelaide's two most popular crags, Morialta and Onkaparinga, are equipped with bollards above the popular routes, and Adelaide's beginners usually learn to establish topropes long before they learn to lead.

Areas are ordered north to south

1.4.1. Anstey Hill Quarry 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

1.4.2. Cable Crag 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.741470, -34.863318

1.4.3. Montacute 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.723689, -34.895965

1.4.4. Over There Crag 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.710369, -34.898595

1.4.5. Morialta 490 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 138.708194, -34.904279

Description:

Home to the start of many outdoor rock climbing careers, Morialta provides a decent number of routes with grades to suit all levels. Morialta is the most visited rock climbing area in Adelaide. Easy access, a number of quality routes, lovely scenery and the ability to be able to toprope almost everything gets people coming back time and time again.

Approach:

To reach the crag head to Norton Summit Road and follow the winding path up the hill for about 5.5kms until car parking space appears on the right hand side. From the car park head down through the two gates and along the fire track. Boulder Bridge and the Billiard Table can be accessed by taking the first trail on the left. To reach Far Crag follow the fire track down and around the bend to the left were you will see a sign indicating rock climbing zone straight ahead. For access to Thorn Buttress head to Far Crag and scramble down the eastern end of the cliff for an access trail down to the main path. From the main track walk 25m downhill until you can cross the stream, follow this path until you reach the base of the cliff.

Ethic:©

Morialta is primarily a trad climbing and toproping area. Chipping, excessive chalk, litter and new bolts are all frowned upon and/or illegal.

Some routes have good natural gear, some have none (if the first ascensionist soloed it that is a good giveaway.) Most routes can be toproped and there are ring bollards in the more popular areas - use these where available and do not tie off to trees.

Any bolt repairs should be done in conjunction with the Climbing Club of South Australia.

History:

The gully has been climbed on for decades so there are very few unclimbed lines left.

1.4.6. Norton Summit 177 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 138.712686, -34.922305

Description:© (boardlord)

A detailed guide to this area is available on the following link:

http://www.climbingclubsouthaustralia.asn.au/guides.html

1.4.7. Slapes Gully 31 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.686793, -34.948992

Description:

Moving around at the top of the cliff is very difficult and requires care. It is steep and loose. The main part of the cliff contains some nice rock and a few worthwhile climbs.

Approach:

Heinous slide down extremely steep slope featuring old rubbish including a lot of rusty metal and some broken glass. Most vegetation is too unstable to be relied upon. The top of the gully used to reach the crag is marked with a small piece of pink flagging tape, close to a rusty gate.

1.4.8. Cleland 50 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 138.694380, -34.968233

1.4.9. Glen Osmond Quarries 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.652027, -34.973723

1.4.10. Belair 104 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 138.641322, -35.002925

1.4.11. Blackwood 44 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

1.4.12. Aldgate Super Crag 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
Top Rope, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 138.749779, -35.033821

1.4.13. Coro Crag 30 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.632114, -35.047096

Access Issues:

Private Land - Landowner does not permit access.

Approach:

Off Sittella Ct, Coromandel Valley.

1.4.14. Bald Wall (O'Halloran Hill) 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Unique Features And Strengths:

Featured delicate climbing on loose sheets of slate.

Description:

Bald Wall was an old slate quarry in a gully west of the parking area/lookout half way up Main South Road at O'Halloran Hill. It was probably buried during construction of the Southern Expressway.

Access Issues:

The quarry has probably been buried.

History:

Discovered by Paul Francis and Mark Witham.

1.4.15. Black's Rocks 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.497195, -35.070967

1.4.16. Mount Barker 52 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Boulder

Long/Lat: 138.921464, -35.064530

Unique Features And Strengths:

Easy access, solid rock, nice view, tiny climbs, good problems.

Description:

The main area comprises short outcrops on a ridgetop. People have been scrambling over them for decades without bothering with write-ups. Route names and descriptions have appeared recently although it's accepted these are somewhat arbitrary. The climbs are listed L to R below. A 'secret' bouldering area has also been established.

Access Issues:

The main area on the ridgetop is council land.

Approach:

Drive up the signposted summit road on the east of the Mount. There's a 3 minute walk to the summit from the carpark. The main area faces west and is just down to the R of the summit marker (looking out).

1.4.17. Onkaparinga 272 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Deep Water

Long/Lat: 138.566442, -35.162307

1.4.18. Selicks Beach 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

A large boulder and a small stretch of low laying sandy cliff. More problems to go up on boulder and all along cliff if you like rock hard sand.

Approach:

Park on the Esplanade and walk south along the beach until you get to the boulder and area.

1.4.19. Vertical Reality 43 routes in Gym

Summary:
Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 138.658343, -34.856049

Description:

If you climb at Vertical Reality you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date.

Approach:

560 NE Rd, Holden Hill SA 5088

1.4.20. Adelaide's Bouldering Club 39 routes in Gym

Summary:
Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 138.566940, -34.913573

Description:

If you climb at Adelaide's Bouldering Club you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date.

Approach:

10 Ware St, Thebarton SA 5031

1.4.21. Dry Creek 42 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Boulder and Trad

Long/Lat: 138.637153, -34.842563

1.5. Mt Crawford Area 270 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 138.918127, -34.746320

Description:©

A collection of crags north-east of Adelaide. All are in areas managed by ForestrySA or adjacent parks and reserves.

Crags are ordered north to south

1.5.1. He Devils 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 138.848169, -34.684977

Approach:

Fine your way to Para Wirra Recreation Park main gate. Then turn onto Humbug Scrub RD follow it to the end and then turn left on to Bassnet RD. Follows this until you come to the little Para river and find a place to park. Walk up stream on the left hand side of the river for a 10mins walk.

1.5.2. She Devils 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Top Rope

Long/Lat: 138.848740, -34.680349

Unique Features And Strengths:

Some gum trees at the top can be used as anchors PLEASE USE SLINGS AROUND THE TREES and the track on the left is the easy way to the top

Description:

fun little crag nice area for a climb and a picnic by the river

Access Issues:

supper easy walk in, safe for kids

Approach:

Drive to Para Wirra Recreation Park main gate, then turn on to Humbug Scrub RD follow it to the end and turn left on to Bassnet RD. Follow this until you come to the little para river and park next to the big rocks. the crag is a 80m walk in on the left hand side of the river.

Where To Stay:

Williamstown caravan park is a nice spot or rocky paddock at Mount Crawford

Ethic:

What you take in you take out

History:

Found in August 2014 by Ryan Fitzpatrick, the short wall had to be climbed even if its not a gold mine

1.5.3. The Enchanted Forest 184 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 139.000302, -34.598745

Description:

Intro:

North of Adelaide in the Kaiserstuhl Native Forest.

Access Issues:
Note:

This area is closed on days of extreme fire danger. Do not drive your vehicle into the Native Forest Reserve if gate is unlocked. Park outside the gate, ensuring the road and gate are not blocked to Forestry SA traffic. Overnight camping and campfires are not permitted at any time. The Reserve is open from sunrise to sunset every day. Do not feed the wildlife and stick to marked trails as much as is possible. Scrub off all tick marks before leaving and pack out all rubbish.

Approach:

General Location:

You can park your car in two places, the east carpark - small dirt road on corner of Brownes Rd and Heggies Rd, and the south carpark - on Brownes Rd. Park off to the side of the road and dont obstruct the gates.

Where To Stay:

In Tanunda there is a caravan park you can use if you are staying for a while, alternatively there is many other locations around Angaston which is also within close proximity

History:

Developed by Hung Nguyen, Petey Pete, and Stephen Grant.

1.5.4. The Devil's Nose 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.819525, -34.669767

Description:

Information; Rockclimbing Around Adelaide, P. Badenoch, L. Adams 2011.

Access Issues:

Vehicle entry fee $10 to enter Pirra Wirra Recreation Area.

Approach:

Collect a park map at the entrance. Park at Knob Lookout, walk down the Quarry Track until you hit the South Para River, then left 200m downstream.

History:

Discovery by Nick Neagle

1.5.5. Hale Conservation Park 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 138.909037, -34.685732

Description:

A short crag with some brittle rock. More room for routes to be put up but little protection between the major vertical cracklines.

Access Issues:

The park is popular with walkers and the main crag is not far from the path. Climbers need to be discreet and responsible.

Approach:

Hale CP is about 2km south east of Williamstown (on the road to Birdwood). Park in the small car park and consult the handy park map. Take the circuit walk clockwise until you reach the lookout. The main crag is 30m to the right, looking out. Grid reference 308400E 6159600N on the Barossa map.

Where To Stay:

Williamstown

Ethic:

Take out what you bring in.

History:

Discovered by George Adams in 1979, if not before.

1.5.6. Rocky Paddock Camp Ground 45 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 138.941214, -34.717779

Description:

Intro:

Mount Crawford Forest is situated in the Northern Mount Lofty Ranges, 1 hours drive from Adelaide, about 7 kilometres from Williamstown.

Access Issues:

Total Fire Bans & Forest Closures

forest reserves are closed to the public on declared Total Fire Ban days and in areas where forest operations such as harvesting are being undertaken. Visitors should keep clear of logging operations and pay attention to all signage. It is recommended that visitors contact the Forest Ranger before visiting to obtain information.

Camping Notes

Camping is prohibited from 1 December to 31 March. The main access gate to the campgrounds will be closed at 4pm every day during this period.

Campfires & BBQs

Wood fires are prohibited within the forest from 1 November until 30 April each year. Gas fires are permitted during November and April, but not from 1 December until 31 March.

Wood for campfires may be collected from the forest floor only. It is an offence to cut down or damage standing trees or plants. Campfires are restricted to fires places located in campgrounds, picnic areas and at huts. Please conserve wood supplies by keeping fires small.

Approach:

General Location:

8km south-east of Williamstown. From waypoint, 350m south-east of Forest information Centre on Warren Road, turn south-west onto Forties Road (the Tower Road entrance is now permanently closed). Follow signage to Rocky Paddock camp ground. 5 minutes walk to the Boulders..

Where To Stay:

Camping:

Campers must always use designated areas in the forest and must require a permit from the Mount Crawford Information Centre on Warren Rd. Campers must also be very conscious of lighting fires, there are responsibilities to put camp fires out and for fires to be distant from flammable materials as well as keeping fires to a minimal size.

At your campsite, wood for fires can be collected from the ground, any small pieces may be used but it is an offence to take from standing trees and shrubbery, if in need of more firewood you can obtain a permit. It is also an offence to remove any firewood from the native reserve areas of the forest. One of these areas is next to the Rocky Paddock camp area so exercise caution around where you collect wood.

History:

Area was established by Seth Fortune and Co.

1.5.7. Warren Conservation Park 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Top Rope and Sport

Long/Lat: 138.916353, -34.724261

Description:

some slab, crack and a 45* over hang

Access Issues:

Over grown plants and a bush bash walk

Approach:

Use the new track until you come to the foot bridge then walk around the big tree in front of you and you will find the old Heysen trail follow this until you come across a river (only runs after heavy rain) and walk in a straight line to the cliff. (at the river crossing there maybe some pink marking tape for a path though the bush )

Where To Stay:

Willimstown

Ethic:

only leave your foot prints. take all rubbish out with you.

History:

Found by George Adams some time in 1987. One old Colin Reece now finished

1.5.8. Pine Falls Crag 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.792091, -34.882363

1.5.9. Blackberry Falls 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.789504, -34.913499

1.6. Murraylands 141 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 139.412270, -35.207141

1.6.1. Bundilla 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6.2. Raetjen's Gap 82 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 139.160120, -34.806671

Unique Features And Strengths:©

Solid rock and a lower chance of rain

Description:©

The Main Cliff and South West Crag have early morning shade in summer.

Otherwise, expect to bake in the sun.

Access Issues:©

Private land, climbing permitted.

1.6.3. Kitticoola 36 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 139.136467, -34.876100

1.6.4. Reedy Creek 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 139.216511, -34.929565

1.7. Fleurieu Peninsula 232 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 138.399507, -35.528252

Description:©

Crags are ordered north to south

1.7.1. Hindmarsh Falls 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.583641, -35.442415

1.7.2. Backslapper Wall 20 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Deep Water

Long/Lat: 138.213601, -35.511258

Description:© (ajkclay)

The popular diving cliff face at Second Valley.

Useful Info: Park in the Second Valley car park and head down the jetty to the exit steps that head along the cliff edge left. follow the beach along the path and up over the small incline to the diving cliff and the cave.

Approach:© (ajkclay)

Second Valley.

History:

This wall was first utilised as a deep water soloing location in January 2005 by Megan Wilks (now Cree), Tom Cree, Quang Doan and Adam Clay. A long-time favourite spot for cliff divers and scuba enthusiasts the first few climbing outings drew considerable interest from fishermen and swimmers.

It derives its name from the route Backslapper which was so-named following a massive back-slap fall from the top by Tom Cree who came off while repeating his heel hook finish of the route.

1.7.3. Green Bay (Port Elliot) 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 138.680150, -35.536847

1.7.4. Granite Island 43 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Unknown and Aid

Long/Lat: 138.630611, -35.564489

Approach:

Park in the Victor Harbor, walk across the causeway, once on the island turn right and walk approx 5mins until you reach obvious boulder field.

History:

Started in the 70's but has been developed since then.

1.7.5. The Bluff 90 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 138.603984, -35.591634

1.7.6. Waitpinga 64 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 138.554729, -35.618176

Access Issues:

The access to the cliff is via one of two methods.

  1. via the Heysen Trail coming in from the Victor Harbour side or Newland Head Reserve. (adds about 1.5 - 2 hours to the walk in.) or

  2. Via private land. The CCSA (Climbing Club of South Australia) has arranged access via the landowners immediately above the cliff top. Any entry onto this land must first have the permission of either Alistair Carmichael or Bernie Carmichael.

Phone numbers are available from the CCSA Online Waitpinga guide at

http://climbingclubsouthaustralia.asn.au/climbing-areas-in-south-australia/waitpinga/

1.7.7. Deep Creek 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Aid

Long/Lat: 138.240599, -35.651747

1.8. Kangaroo Island 24 routes in Region

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 137.275804, -35.823094

Access Issues:

112km south-west of Adelaide. Obviously it is an island thus: www.sealink.com.au and most of the climbable areas are within National Parks.

1.8.1. Cape Willoughby 23 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 138.129762, -35.844921

Description:

Located on the Eastern tip of Kangaroo Island, below the lighthouse. Some climbs can be top roped (with trad anchors) but are few and far between.

To get to Ugly Death Wall and Schweppes Wall, from the car park, head right and forwards towards the cliff. You will encounter a fence, get over the fence by stepping on the conveniently placed park bench.

Access Issues:

Schweppes Wall should only be climbed when it is low tide.

Lighthouse Wall is on National Park property.

Ugly Death Wall and Schweppes Wall are on Council property.

Climb at your own risk.

Approach:

27km East of Penneshaw along an unsealed road, but fairly well maintained road.

1.8.2. Remarkable Rocks 1 route in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 136.757594, -36.048179

Description:

Great potential for climbing but in a National Park and regulations are unclear.

Approach:

Park in Remarkable Rocks car park and follow boardwalk down to rocks, Strawberry Jam boulder is just East of the Main Sector, towards the cliffs, watch out!