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Summary

This steep cave offers shady, powerful sport climbing on the best quality sandstone in Sydney.

Description

Known to locals as Devil's Dropoff and to climbers as The Junkyard Cave, this recently developed sport climbing cave offers amazingly hard solid sandstone (reminiscent of the Grampians) varying from 10 - 35m high with potential for some really hard routes in close proximity to Sydney. Watch you rope length on lower off of some of these routes as you lower off into space. Crag stay dry in light rain, but can seep after extended period of rain, ie 3 - 4 days

Access issues

Make sure not to leave anything of value in your car as the parking is a bit suss. No break ins have been recorded yet despite many visits but best to be cautious. Don't leave quickdraws or gear stashed at the crag - the locals will steal it or throw it randomly into the bush!!!.

Approach

For The Junkyard cave jump the initial gate take the first R after 100m, then an immediate L at the fork. In a 100m go left on a vague track and follow the rutted track down the hill to a lookout at the top of the crack with a couple of car wrecks. Go R facing out down the gully/track and then back L to the base of the caves.

Ethic

Bolt, bolt and more ring bolts.

History

Discovered by Matt Brooks in winter 2012 in a random search for some bouldering and after a tip off from the old Sydney Surf and Sandstone guide.

Routes

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Grade Route

Junkyard Cave Upper Tier

1
19 Grand Theft Auto Sport 15m, 7

Fun steep jugs, with a interesting crux. First route you come to after walking down the descent. Start on the R of the scoop follow the bolts up L onto easy ground. Head straight up the jugs to finish.

FA: Marek Brock-Tasler & equipped by Matt Brooks, 2012

2
24 Not Very Ladylike Sport 12m, 8

A direct start to LGG. Some bouldery moves into the top of LGG 2m L of Lady Ger Ger Up the easy first section then work hard to get to the slopey break. Finish up LGGs jugs!

Used to be 23 but a couple of holds broke soon after the first ascent, still goes but it is more considered hard 24.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

3
22 * Lady Ger-Ger Sport 15m, 6

Punchy start, punchy finish. Use the hook at the 3rd bolt when cleaning to avoid swinging into the tree..

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

4
25 * Short Sharp Loud Sport 8m, 5

Bouldery steep climbing. At L end of first sandy cave reached on the walk down. Follow the line of rings out the L end of the cave, to a sting in the tail finish

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

5

Rad steep pocket pulling start up to a great mix of jugs and slopes. Now finishes directly off the rest via another small boulder.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

6
24 ** Communal Spoon Sport 15m

Locate the "Spoon Bolt". Up and jug blissfully along the the flake to harder finish out left. Also has a direct finish at the same grade.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2013

7

Short and punchy, left of SS. Link into CS for the full deal

Set by Jason Lammers

FFA: Ben Jenga, 25th Jul

8
23 Check out my Junk Sport 8m, 5

Short R to L steep mini roof boulder route. Start at the RB in the roof 2m R of SC Boulder up and L to big jug in SC. Cross this and keep going L to join Campbelltown Cookup and finish at its loweroff.

FA: Marek Brock-Tasler, 2013

9
21 Sin City Sport 6m, 6

Mini juggy roof, nowra South Central style! 2m R of CC. The R hand mini route through the lower cave/roof.

FA: Marek Brock-Tasler & equipped by Matt Brooks, 2012

10
Project Matt Aid Project 15m, 6

Line of bolts above Sin City that links into TFDC. Looks like a very slim chance without some rapid erosion.

Set by Matt Brooks, 2012

11
27 *** Full Dole Check Sport 10

Climb Bogan Direct to the rest jug then climb a harder boulder secquence left to gain great jug line. Wicked rock and a funky sting in the tail. Could be 28??

FA: Ben JengA & Matt Brooks, 2012

12
26 *** Bogan Direct Sport 7m, 7

Rad little bouldering route. Starts off the ledge accessed 6m to the right. Wicked steep fridge hugging moves to a jug then more punchy boulder moves.

FFA: Ben Jenga & Andy Richardson, 2012

13
27 *** Feral Kitten Sport

A large dynamic move see you started on this bouldery rig, once your a couple of bolts up craft a rest and jug to the top.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2012

14
28 *** Cougars Sport 15m, 10

One of the hardest routes in sydney!!

Super steep bouldering on bullet hard stone with some amazing scoops and holds. Right trending line of orange pockets in the centre of the crag.

FFA: Matt Brooks & Ben JengA, 2012

15
28 *** Battle Cat Sport 35m, 14

Wow - Mega line. The King line of the crag. Start as for Cougars. Follow it to the seam, traverse R and up to join 50SOMD at the nose and finish at its anchors for now.... Sustained junkyard awesomeness

The boneheads of the south west.

Set by Matt Brooks, 2012

FFA: Ben Jenga, 25th Jul

16
27 ** Leaking White Lady Sport 30m, 15

Slopey, hard and steep! See the Grafiti for where the name came from!!!! Start as for JYD From the 5RB of JYD traverse L on the slopes staying low to the prow. Go L around this and direct up into the top of FSOMD. Classic slopes testpiece.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2013

17

So this is a hard V6/7 boulder that links fifty shades or battle cat into the top of the junkyard extension.. Bring your long arms.

Set by Matt Brooks

18

Climb the start of Junkyard dog and then break left under the roof, around the arete, left some more and up. Best to second to clean or back jump.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

19
24 *** The Junkyard Dog Sport 17m

Absolute classic steep climbing on Grampians quality rock. Slabby scoop then up seam crack to stance. Swing right on incredible jugs then back left on more jugs to anchor. This is a shared start with 3 other routes so get it dial.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2012

20

Power up the overhung prow above the first anchors. One of the best steep lines in Sydney, if not NSW. A couple of long draws in the roof and the start help the rope drag.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

21
23 * Sixteen and Pregnant Sport 15m, 9

Bouldery and steep as like most stuff here. Follow JYD to the 5th RB. Skip this and boulder diagonally R up the steep wall to the lower off and L end of the slopey ledge.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

22

A link of 16 and Pregnant into Smack Crack, finishing at the anchors for BBBL.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2012

23
22 Smack Crack Sport 15m, 6

Bolted roof crack on right side of main wall. Mantle up a series of shelves for three bolts then solve the tricky roof crack section (reach helps) and finish up massive jugs out left to anchors upside down in roof. No jamming required.

FA: Neil Monteith & Ben Jenga, 2012

24
24 ** Beep Beep Big Love. Sport 17m, 8

Two easy mantels to start then big moves between big holds. Punchy climbing. Perhaps a bit harder if your short or can't dyno. RIP Jay

FFA: Ben JengA, 2012

25
25 * Manufactured Meat Sport 15m, 8

Big roof route! Starts on the far right side of the main cave, just before the scramble up to the right side ledge. Boulder over three tricky shelves to lie down rest underneath massive roof. Crux moves across this 4m ceiling on enriched pockets to pumpy finish. Back-jump to clean.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2012

FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2013

26
27 *** Bastard Child Sport 20m, 10

Powerful bouldering into BBBL, with a cool iron cross move. 1m L of LGs on the same ledge at a RB above the scramble up from the lower level. Head up diagonally L to jugs crossing Neils project. Continue L and leave the jugs via the iron cross L to the flake. Move up L from this to join BBBL at the crux. Follow this to the anchors.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

27
V4 Facey Boulder 6m

Roof boulder problem on pockets just right of Bastard Child. Roofy, facey then deathy.

28

Start as for PGPO. Hit the lip and keep going left all the way to the anchors of BBBL. Pumpy with big holds but bring campus arms or be good at heel and toe hooks.

Set by Matt Brooks, 2013

FA: Matt Brooks, 2013

29

Climbs liverpool girls then traverses left along the lip of the roof past two bolts to finish at neil project anchors. Back jump or second to clean.

FFA: Ben Jenga & Edwin Emmerick, 2012

30
18 Liverpool Girls Sport 14m

Funky arête to slab just outside the cave left of negative funk.

FFA: Glen Norrel, 2012

31
Dirty Arse Crack Sport Project 8m

The ultra dirty arse crack left of H. Lower offs in the roof and boltless holes drilled. Looks like a classic

Set by Random Dude

32
** Heisenberg - Bundys Project Sport Project 15m, 7

The vertical slab left of NF to nice big roof and then over the top to anchors.

FA: Project - Jason Lammers

33
21 ** Negative Funk Sport 15m, 7

Steep climbing on excellent rock. Corner to start then right along high break under roof to final cruxy mantle.

FFA: Ben JengA, 2012

34
20 ** Early Funk Sport 15m

Link Up. Start up NF and finish on the crimps of EB. Probably better than both of them, its avoids the awkward moves on both climbs..

FA: Link Up

35
23 * Early Bird Sport 15m, 6

Starts just right of corner. Up bulging wall to low break, swing right across this and up to stance. Finish up wall on edges to shared anchor with left route.

FA: Neil Monteith, Ben Jenga & Paul Thomson, 2012

36
24 * Stroke My Mullet Sport 15m, 8

Climb Scrambletown to the 2nd RB then swing left out onto the steep prow. Move left around the arete and up onto the nice top face.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2012

37
21 * Scrambletown Sport 10m, 4

Slopey start to nice crack. Awesome orange rock !

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

38

Starts up S, traveses right past funky pockets and finishes at SB anchours.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

39
24 * Strange Behaviour Sport 15m, 7

Mantel the start and walk along the ledge to the base of the climb. Get your belayer to unclip the first draw when your established on the next two draws. Finish at the double U bolts above the big heuco. Left random bolt still a project.

Strange Behaviour by Feed Me and Tasha Baxter.

FFA: Ben JengA & Edwin Emmerick, 2012

40
23 Junk In Ya Trunk Sport 15m, 7

Roof jugging to a mantle! Down and R of SB. Access this either by scrambling across the slopey slab or through the hole belowTracksuit Timewarp. Climb the slab then R through the roof. Mantle the lip and crank away up the nice head wall!

FFA: 2013

FA: Matt Brooks, 2013

Junkyard Cave Lower Wall

The following routes are on the short wall below the belay ledge of the main cave routes. Belay in a pile of rubbish. You can either rap down to them, or walk around the side.

41
15 Western Redneck Sport 10m, 3

Left hand line lower slab.

FFA: Jessica Shaham, 2012

42
19 Oasis Babes Sport 10m, 5

Boulder the bolted slab. 3m R of WR Some thin bouldery moves directly up the middle of the slab

FFA: Jessica Shaham, 2012

43
16 Foxy Miss Foxy Sport 10m, 4

Fun little layback. At the obvious flake at the R end of the lower slab. Straight up and into the obvious layback and up to the lower off on the main ledge

FFA: Glen Norrell, 2012

44
Slab Project Matt Sport Project

Hard Slab past an overlap.

Open trips

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