Site navigation

The Junkyard Cave 37 routes in Crag

  • Avg. Height: 16m
  • Style: Mostly Sport
  • Approach time: 10mins
  • Favorites: 7
  • Ascents: 299
  • Aka: The Wrecking Yard

Grade search

Leaderboard

KML KML

Unique Features And Strengths:

The Wreckave is a large cave of amazingly Grampians hard solid sandstone varying from 10 - 35m high with potential for some really hard routes in close proximity to Sydney. Watch you rope length on lower off of some of these routes as you lower off into space. Crag stay dry in light rain, but can be wet after extended period of rain, ie 3 - 4 days

Access Issues:

Make sure not to leave anything of value in your car as the parking is a bit suss.

Approach:

For The Wreck Cave jump the gate take the first R after 100m, then an immediate L at the fork. In a 100m go left on a vague track and follow the rutted track down the hill to a lookout at the top of the crack with a couple of car wrecks. Go R facing out down the gully/track and then back L to the base of the caves.

Ethic:

Bolt, Bolt and more Bolts... Most of the cave routes are better to back climb as they are very steep.

History:

Discovered by Matt Brooks in winter 2012

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Grand Theft Auto

Fun steep jugs, with a interesting crux. First route you come to after walking down the descent. Start on the R of the scoop follow the bolts up L onto easy ground. Head straight up the jugs to finish.

FA: Marek Brock-Tasler, equipped by Matt Brooks, 2012

19
Sport 15m , 7
2 Not Very Ladylike

A direct start to LGG. Some bouldery moves into the top of LGG 2m L of Lady Ger Ger Up the easy first section then work hard to get to the slopey break. Finish up LGGs jugs!

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

23
Sport 12m , 8
3 * Lady Ger-Ger

Punchy start, punchy finish. Use the hook at the 3rd bolt when cleaning to avoid swinging into the tree..

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

22
Sport 15m , 6
4 * Short Sharp Loud

Bouldery steep climbing. At L end of first sandy cave reached on the walk down. Follow the line of rings out the L end of the cave, to a sting in the tail finish

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

25
Sport 8m , 5
RouteGradeStylePopularity
5 * Chic Chic Boom Chic

Rad steep pocket pulling start up to a great mix of jugs and slopes.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

26
Sport 7
6 ** Communal Spoon - Bundy Project

Locate the "Spoon Bolt". Up and jug blissfully along the the flake to finish on the last couple of bolts on CCBC.

FA: Project - Bundy,

Sport Project 15m
7 Bundy - Nowra style pro

Short and punchy, left of SS. Link into CS for the full deal

FA: Project - Jason Lammers,

Sport Project 6m
8 Check out my Junk

Short R to L steep mini roof boulder route. Start at the RB in the roof 2m R of SC Boulder up and L to big jug in SC. Cross this and keep going L to join Campbelltown Cookup and finish at its loweroff.

FA: Marek Brock-Tasler, 2013

23
Sport 8m , 5
9 Sin City

Mini juggy roof, nowra South Central style! 2m R of CC. The R hand mini route through the lower cave/roof.

FA: Marek Brock-Tasler, equipped by Matt Brooks, 2012

21
Sport 6m , 6
10 Project Matt

Line of bolts above Sin City that links into TFDC

RS: Matt Brooks, 2012

Sport Project 15m , 6
11 *** Full Dole Check

Climb Bogan Direct to the rest jug then climb a harder boulder secquence left to gain great jug line. Wicked rock and a funky sting in the tail.

FA: Ben JengA, Matt Brooks, 2012

27
Sport 10
12 ** Bogan Direct

Rad little bouldering route. Starts off the ledge accessed 6m to the right. Wicked steep fridge hugging moves to a jug then more punchy boulder moves.

FFA: Ben Jenga & Andy Richardson, 2012

26
Sport 7m , 7
RouteGradeStylePopularity
13 *** Feral Kitten

A large dynamic move see you started on this bouldery rig, once your a couple of bolts up craft a rest and jug to the top.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2012

27
Sport
14 *** Cougers

One of the hardest routes in sydney!!

Super steep bouldering on bullet hard stone with some amazing scoops and holds. Right trending line of orange pockets in the centre of the crag.

FFA: Matt Brooks, Ben JengA, 2012

29
Sport 15m , 10
15 Project - Battle Cat

Wow - mega link. Start as for Cougars. Follow it to the seam. Traverse R and up to join 50SOMD at the nose. Head direct up the steep wall to join the JYDE at the final prow.

RS: Matt Brooks, 2012

Sport 35m , 14
16 * Leaking White Lady

Slopey, hard and steep! See the Grafiti for where the name came from!!!! Start as for JYD From the 5RB of JYD traverse L on the slopes staying low to the prow. Go L around this and direct up into the top of FSOMD. Classic slopes testpiece.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2013

28
Sport 30m , 15
17 *** Fifty Shades of Mt Druitt.

Climb the start of Junkyard dog and then break left under the roof, around the arete, left some more and up. Best to second to clean or back jump.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

23
Sport 25m
18 *** The Junkyard Dog

Absolute classic steep climbing on Grampians quality rock. Slabby scoop then up seam crack to stance. Swing right on incredible jugs then back left on more jugs to anchor. This is a shared start with 3 other routes so get it dial.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2012

25
Sport 17m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
19 *** Junkyard Dog Extension

Power up the overhung prow above the first anchors. One of the best steep lines in Sydney, if not NSW. A couple of long draws in the roof and the start help the rope drag.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

26
Sport 25m
20 * Sixteen and Pregnant

Bouldery and steep as like most stuff here. Follow JYD to the 5th RB. Skip this and boulder diagonally R up the steep wall to the lower off and L end of the slopey ledge.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

23
Sport 15m , 9
21 16 year old pregnant crack whore

A link of 16 and Pregnant into Smack Crack, finishing at the anchors for BBBL.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2012

25
Sport 25m , 12
22 * Smack Crack

Bolted roof crack on right side of main wall. Mantle up a series of shelves for three bolts then solve the tricky roof crack section (reach helps) and finish up massive jugs out left to anchors upside down in roof. No jamming required.

FA: Neil Monteith & Ben Jenga, 2012

22
Sport 15m , 6
23 *** Beep Beep Big Love.

Two easy mantels to start then big moves between big holds. Punchy climbing. Perhaps a bit harder if your short or can't dyno. RIP Jay

FFA: Ben JengA, 2012

24
Sport 17m , 8
24 Neil's new roofs project.

Steep line left of Liverpool girls. Project, stay off.

Sport Project
25 ** Bastard Child

Powerful bouldering into BBBL, with a cool iron cross move. 1m L of LGs on the same ledge at a RB above the scramble up from the lower level. Head up diagonally L to jugs crossing Neils project. Continue L and leave the jugs via the iron cross L to the flake. Move up L from this to join BBBL at the crux. Follow this to the anchors.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

27
Sport 20m , 10
26 Facey

Roof boulder problem on pockets just right of Bastard Child. Roofy, facey then deathy.

V4
Boulder 6m
27 Penriff girls put out.

Climbs liverpool girls then traverses left along the lip of the roof past two bolts to finish at neil project anchors. Back jump or second to clean.

FFA: Ben Jenga, Edwin Emmerick, 2012

23
Sport 7
28 * Liverpool Girls

Funky arête to slab just outside the cave left of negative funk.

FFA: Glen Norrel, 2012

18
Sport
RouteGradeStylePopularity
29 ** Heisenberg - Bundys Project

The vertical slab left of NF to nice big roof and then over the top to anchors.

FA: Project - Jason Lammers,

Sport Project 15m , 7
30 ** Negative Funk

Steep climbing on excellent rock. Corner to start then right along high break under roof to final cruxy mantle.

FFA: Ben JengA, 2012

21
Sport 15m , 7
31 ** Early Funk

Link Up. Start up NF and finish on the crimps of EB. Probably better than both of them, its avoids the awkward moves on both climbs..

FA: Link Up,

21
Sport 15m
32 ** Early Bird

Starts just right of corner. Up bulging wall to low break, swing right across this and up to stance. Finish up wall on edges to shared anchor with left route.

FA: Neil Monteith, Ben Jenga & Paul Thomson, 2012

23
Sport 15m , 6
33 Stroke my mullet.

As for Scrambletown Climb ST to the 2nd RB then swing L out onto the steep prow. Move L around the arete and up onto the nice top face.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2012

24
Sport 15m , 8
34 Scrambletown

Slopey start to nice crack. Awesome orange rock !

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

21
Sport 10m , 4
35 ** Tracksuit Time Warp

Starts up S, traveses right past funky pockets and finishes at SB anchours.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

23
Sport
36 * Strange Behaviour

Mantel the start and walk along the ledge to the base of the climb. Get your belayer to unclip the first draw when your established on the next two draws. Finish at the double U bolts above the big heuco. Left random bolt still a project.

Strange Behaviour by Feed Me and Tasha Baxter.

FFA: Ben JengA, Edwin Emmerick, 2012

24
Sport 15m , 7
37 Junk In Ya Trunk

Roof jugging to a mantle! Down and R of SB. Access this either by scrambling across the slopey slab or through the hole belowTracksuit Timewarp. Climb the slab then R through the roof. Mantle the lip and crank away up the nice head wall!

FFA: , 2013

FA: Matt Brooks, 2013

23
Sport 15m , 7

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.