The Junkyard Cave Crag guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Ben Jenga Neil Monteith Matt Brooks Brendan Heywood Marek Edwin Emmerick Paul Thomson Danger Innes Jason Nguyen Aidan

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. The Junkyard Cave 37 in Crag
2. Index by grade

1. The Junkyard Cave 37 routes in Crag

seasonality

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Long/Lat: 150.832399, -34.094410
Unique Features And Strengths:: The Wreckave is a large cave of amazingly Grampians hard solid sandstone varying from 10 - 35m high with potential for some really hard routes in close proximity to Sydney. Watch you rope length on lower off of some of these routes as you lower off into space. Crag stay dry in light rain, but can be wet after extended period of rain, ie 3 - 4 days
Access Issues:: Make sure not to leave anything of value in your car as the parking is a bit suss.
Approach:: For The Wreck Cave jump the gate take the first R after 100m, then an immediate L at the fork. In a 100m go left on a vague track and follow the rutted track down the hill to a lookout at the top of the crack with a couple of car wrecks. Go R facing out down the gully/track and then back L to the base of the caves.
Ethic:: Bolt, Bolt and more Bolts... Most of the cave routes are better to back climb as they are very steep.
History:: Discovered by Matt Brooks in winter 2012

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
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1	Grand Theft Auto Fun steep jugs, with a interesting crux. First route you come to after walking down the descent. Start on the R of the scoop follow the bolts up L onto easy ground. Head straight up the jugs to finish. FA: Marek Brock-Tasler, equipped by Matt Brooks, 2012	19	Sport 15m , 7		Tristan 7 days ago Not what I expected from the ground but enjoyable. Paul Thomson 10 weeks ago Even with the "crux" holds and the slab sopping wet, this one went easily enough. Okay, I suppose...
2	Not Very Ladylike A direct start to LGG. Some bouldery moves into the top of LGG 2m L of Lady Ger Ger Up the easy first section then work hard to get to the slopey break. Finish up LGGs jugs! FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012	23	Sport 12m , 8		Ben Jenga 7 months ago Well it was 23 untill Mitch broken a crucial hold. One shot to suss out the moves then on my seco...
3	Lady Ger-Ger Punchy start, punchy finish. Use the hook at the 3rd bolt when cleaning to avoid swinging into the tree.. FA: Jason Lammers, 2012	22	Sport 15m , 6		Paul Thomson 13 weeks ago Second shot today... First shot a quickdraw on my harness clipped through one of the quickdraws o... Neil Monteith 3 months ago Really fun route on great rock - pity about the ledge.
4	Short Sharp Loud Bouldery steep climbing. At L end of first sandy cave reached on the walk down. Follow the line of rings out the L end of the cave, to a sting in the tail finish FA: Neil Monteith, 2012	25	Sport 8m , 5		Matt Miller 6 months ago Cool moves over the lip. Will get it clean when fresh. Ben Jenga 7 months ago 4 shots no send... Great monkey jugs down the bottom to a coupe pounce moves to a decent rest the...
5	Chic Chic Boom Chic Rad steep pocket pulling start up to a great mix of jugs and slopes. FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012	26	Sport 7		Neil Monteith 3 months ago 2 shots. This is tough but awesome. Hardest bit for me is 2nd bolt using the slopers with bunched...
6	Communal Spoon - Bundy Project Locate the "Spoon Bolt". Up and jug blissfully along the the flake to finish on the last couple of bolts on CCBC. FA: Project - Bundy,		Sport Project 15m		Jason Lammers 13 weeks ago Finally found the left knee bar - match that slopey finger jug... Its critical, but still fell o... Paul Thomson 13 weeks ago Climbed up to the last crux (with a few rests) so I could backjump to retrieve the draws. Climbs ...
7	Bundy - Nowra style pro Short and punchy, left of SS. Link into CS for the full deal FA: Project - Jason Lammers,		Sport Project 6m
8	Check out my Junk Short R to L steep mini roof boulder route. Start at the RB in the roof 2m R of SC Boulder up and L to big jug in SC. Cross this and keep going L to join Campbelltown Cookup and finish at its loweroff. FA: Marek Brock-Tasler, 2013	23	Sport 8m , 5		Marek 12 weeks ago On the second shot today I managed to complete it. Starts out really steep and then continues as ...
9	Sin City Mini juggy roof, nowra South Central style! 2m R of CC. The R hand mini route through the lower cave/roof. FA: Marek Brock-Tasler, equipped by Matt Brooks, 2012	21	Sport 6m , 6		Marek 12 weeks ago Last climb of the day. I did another different warm-up traverse climb at the start (not clean). Paul Thomson 13 weeks ago Decided to warm up on this in slimy conditions, thinking it would be a pushover... Um... Yeah... ...
10	Project Matt Line of bolts above Sin City that links into TFDC RS: Matt Brooks, 2012		Sport Project 15m , 6
11	Full Dole Check Climb Bogan Direct to the rest jug then climb a harder boulder secquence left to gain great jug line. Wicked rock and a funky sting in the tail. FA: Ben JengA, Matt Brooks, 2012	27	Sport 10		Ben Jenga 6 months ago Fck yeah no more working for the dole!! 3rd shot today with a great* crew of friends, my hardest ... Ben Jenga 6 months ago 4 more shots, i was kind of hoping that this route would go today but it was just to hot and me t...
12	Bogan Direct Rad little bouldering route. Starts off the ledge accessed 6m to the right. Wicked steep fridge hugging moves to a jug then more punchy boulder moves. FFA: Ben Jenga & Andy Richardson, 2012	26	Sport 7m , 7		Ben Jenga 8 months ago RAD. I was kind of hoping this would be harder but when a climb is this fun who can complain. Gre...
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	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
13	Feral Kitten A large dynamic move see you started on this bouldery rig, once your a couple of bolts up craft a rest and jug to the top. FA: Matt Brooks, 2012	27	Sport		Ben Jenga 5 months ago Sick a great little prize at the end of a scat/hung over climbing arvo. I tried the hard start a ...
14	Cougers One of the hardest routes in sydney!! Super steep bouldering on bullet hard stone with some amazing scoops and holds. Right trending line of orange pockets in the centre of the crag. FFA: Matt Brooks, Ben JengA, 2012	29	Sport 15m , 10		George Broadfoot 13 days ago Sick! Awesome moves on wicked orange sandstone. Rad.
15	Project - Battle Cat Wow - mega link. Start as for Cougars. Follow it to the seam. Traverse R and up to join 50SOMD at the nose. Head direct up the steep wall to join the JYDE at the final prow. RS: Matt Brooks, 2012		Sport 35m , 14
16	Leaking White Lady Slopey, hard and steep! See the Grafiti for where the name came from!!!! Start as for JYD From the 5RB of JYD traverse L on the slopes staying low to the prow. Go L around this and direct up into the top of FSOMD. Classic slopes testpiece. FA: Matt Brooks, 2013	28	Sport 30m , 15		Matt Brooks 2 weeks ago Awesome if you like slopes and a ticky start to the slopes with some cool beta to get it done. Bl...
17	Fifty Shades of Mt Druitt. Climb the start of Junkyard dog and then break left under the roof, around the arete, left some more and up. Best to second to clean or back jump. FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012	23	Sport 25m		Marek 2 weeks ago 2 shots today. Know the moves now. Shouldn't be a problem to send next time... Marek 4 months ago Very nervous on this today after not climbing for two weeks but will definitely be cool to try it...
18	The Junkyard Dog Absolute classic steep climbing on Grampians quality rock. Slabby scoop then up seam crack to stance. Swing right on incredible jugs then back left on more jugs to anchor. This is a shared start with 3 other routes so get it dial. FA: Matt Brooks, 2012	25	Sport 17m		Matt Brooks 4 weeks ago A couple of training laps as it was nice and dry! Marek 4 weeks ago This route has it all. Great steep climbing on solid good quality rock and really fun combination...
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	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
19	Junkyard Dog Extension Power up the overhung prow above the first anchors. One of the best steep lines in Sydney, if not NSW. A couple of long draws in the roof and the start help the rope drag. FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012	26	Sport 25m		George Broadfoot 3 weeks ago A great, long roof on excellent rock. Good fun! Cool little crag- 35 mins from home! Awesome. Neil Monteith 4 weeks ago Incredibly good - makes the original even better. Pity the top was a waterfall today.
20	Sixteen and Pregnant Bouldery and steep as like most stuff here. Follow JYD to the 5th RB. Skip this and boulder diagonally R up the steep wall to the lower off and L end of the slopey ledge. FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012	23	Sport 15m , 9		Neil Monteith 3 months ago Slightly committing clip - baulked and dogged it first try. A good fun super steep traverse. Marek 5 months ago Very happy to get this second shot today. Didn't feel that strong on the first go but nailed the ...
21	16 year old pregnant crack whore A link of 16 and Pregnant into Smack Crack, finishing at the anchors for BBBL. FA: Matt Brooks, 2012	25	Sport 25m , 12
22	Smack Crack Bolted roof crack on right side of main wall. Mantle up a series of shelves for three bolts then solve the tricky roof crack section (reach helps) and finish up massive jugs out left to anchors upside down in roof. No jamming required. FA: Neil Monteith & Ben Jenga, 2012	22	Sport 15m , 6		Paul Thomson 13 weeks ago Cruised it today in the dark, placing the draws. Crux was pretty slimey, but I wanted to clean up... Paul Thomson 6 months ago Pretty exciting for my second day back climbing after my injury... I really liked this. Hard to g...
23	Beep Beep Big Love. Two easy mantels to start then big moves between big holds. Punchy climbing. Perhaps a bit harder if your short or can't dyno. RIP Jay FFA: Ben JengA, 2012	24	Sport 17m , 8		Matt Brooks 4 weeks ago A training lap in the ry Marek 4 weeks ago Nice climbing but one very reachy move that had me baffled. I think I need to elevate my feet fo...
24	Neil's new roofs project. Steep line left of Liverpool girls. Project, stay off.		Sport Project		Neil Monteith 5 months ago Still feels hard - especially in the sun and 99% humidity Neil Monteith 8 months ago 4m bouldery ceiling at the top of pumpy climbing - all moves done.
25	Bastard Child Powerful bouldering into BBBL, with a cool iron cross move. 1m L of LGs on the same ledge at a RB above the scramble up from the lower level. Head up diagonally L to jugs crossing Neils project. Continue L and leave the jugs via the iron cross L to the flake. Move up L from this to join BBBL at the crux. Follow this to the anchors. FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012	27	Sport 20m , 10
26	Facey Roof boulder problem on pockets just right of Bastard Child. Roofy, facey then deathy.	V4	Boulder 6m
27	Penriff girls put out. Climbs liverpool girls then traverses left along the lip of the roof past two bolts to finish at neil project anchors. Back jump or second to clean. FFA: Ben Jenga, Edwin Emmerick, 2012	23	Sport 7		Ben Jenga 5 months ago Pumpy number, plenty of good juggy holds you just have to find them. Paul Thomson 6 months ago Not too bad, I finished the campus out left, but couldn't continue up to the anchors since I stil...
28	Liverpool Girls Funky arête to slab just outside the cave left of negative funk. FFA: Glen Norrel, 2012	18	Sport		Marek 8 weeks ago Warm up. Marek 4 months ago Warm up for fun.
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	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
29	Heisenberg - Bundys Project The vertical slab left of NF to nice big roof and then over the top to anchors. FA: Project - Jason Lammers,		Sport Project 15m , 7		Matt Brooks 4 weeks ago Just a play on the bottom of bundys the slab as it was dry! Neil Monteith 4 weeks ago It was dry Bundy! Got the slab section pretty easily on my first try, but then on second attempt ...
30	Negative Funk Steep climbing on excellent rock. Corner to start then right along high break under roof to final cruxy mantle. FFA: Ben JengA, 2012	21	Sport 15m , 7		Matt Brooks 4 weeks ago Top was a little damp from the down pour but a nice warm up Marek 4 weeks ago Warm up.
31	Early Funk Link Up. Start up NF and finish on the crimps of EB. Probably better than both of them, its avoids the awkward moves on both climbs.. FA: Link Up,	21	Sport 15m		Tristan 7 days ago Definitely better than the mantle on Negative Funk. Interesting stemming then very quick through ... Marek 8 weeks ago Great to jump on this today. Down climbed it as well about 3/4 of the way. However down-climbing ...
32	Early Bird Starts just right of corner. Up bulging wall to low break, swing right across this and up to stance. Finish up wall on edges to shared anchor with left route. FA: Neil Monteith, Ben Jenga & Paul Thomson, 2012	23	Sport 15m , 6		Tristan 7 days ago a marginal move early had us stumped for awhile then after we got it sorted we were too pumped to... Jason Smith 3 weeks ago Steep fun. Feel like a millionaire after driving through Airds
33	Stroke my mullet. As for Scrambletown Climb ST to the 2nd RB then swing L out onto the steep prow. Move L around the arete and up onto the nice top face. FA: Matt Brooks, 2012	24	Sport 15m , 8
34	Scrambletown Slopey start to nice crack. Awesome orange rock ! FA: Jason Lammers, 2012	21	Sport 10m , 4		Jason Smith 3 weeks ago Dodgy ankle testing - very timid Neil Monteith 4 months ago For 3m I thought I was on Taipan. Excellent rock but short. I was gassed on this - felt tough for...
35	Tracksuit Time Warp Starts up S, traveses right past funky pockets and finishes at SB anchours. FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012	23	Sport		Jason Smith 3 weeks ago Great steep pockets. Did a desperate forearm mantle as heal hooking was out Jason Lammers 6 months ago Funky pockets and features
36	Strange Behaviour Mantel the start and walk along the ledge to the base of the climb. Get your belayer to unclip the first draw when your established on the next two draws. Finish at the double U bolts above the big heuco. Left random bolt still a project. Strange Behaviour by Feed Me and Tasha Baxter. FFA: Ben JengA, Edwin Emmerick, 2012	24	Sport 15m , 7		Neil Monteith 3 months ago This is NOT 23! Took me about half an hour to get a sequence that actually worked. Desperate dyno... Ben Jenga 7 months ago A quick repeat, I stand by my grade of 23. It's easier then timewarp and mega fun.
37	Junk In Ya Trunk Roof jugging to a mantle! Down and R of SB. Access this either by scrambling across the slopey slab or through the hole belowTracksuit Timewarp. Climb the slab then R through the roof. Mantle the lip and crank away up the nice head wall! FFA: , 2013 FA: Matt Brooks, 2013	23	Sport 15m , 7		Marek 4 weeks ago Knew the sequence really well this time. Although I battled a bit with clipping the quickdraw at ... Neil Monteith 4 weeks ago Some fun (chossy) thugging then a horrible mantle. My knees are rating now.

2. Index by grade

Grade	Name	Style
18	Liverpool Girls	Sport
19	Grand Theft Auto	Sport 15m , 7
21	Early Funk	Sport 15m
	Negative Funk	Sport 15m , 7
	Scrambletown	Sport 10m , 4
	Sin City	Sport 6m , 6
22	Lady Ger-Ger	Sport 15m , 6
	Smack Crack	Sport 15m , 6
23	Check out my Junk	Sport 8m , 5
	Early Bird	Sport 15m , 6
	Fifty Shades of Mt Druitt.	Sport 25m
	Junk In Ya Trunk	Sport 15m , 7
	Not Very Ladylike	Sport 12m , 8
	Penriff girls put out.	Sport 7
	Sixteen and Pregnant	Sport 15m , 9
	Tracksuit Time Warp	Sport
V4	Facey	Boulder 6m
24	Beep Beep Big Love.	Sport 17m , 8
	Strange Behaviour	Sport 15m , 7
	Stroke my mullet.	Sport 15m , 8
25	16 year old pregnant crack whore	Sport 25m , 12
	Short Sharp Loud	Sport 8m , 5
	The Junkyard Dog	Sport 17m
26	Bogan Direct	Sport 7m , 7
	Chic Chic Boom Chic	Sport 7
	Junkyard Dog Extension	Sport 25m
27	Bastard Child	Sport 20m , 10
	Feral Kitten	Sport
	Full Dole Check	Sport 10
28	Leaking White Lady	Sport 30m , 15
29	Cougers	Sport 15m , 10
?	Bundy - Nowra style pro	Sport Project 6m
	Communal Spoon - Bundy Project	Sport Project 15m
	Heisenberg - Bundys Project	Sport Project 15m , 7
	Neil's new roofs project.	Sport Project
	Project - Battle Cat	Sport 35m , 14
	Project Matt	Sport Project 15m , 6

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Crag Guide for The Junkyard Cave

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1. The Junkyard Cave 37 routes in Crag

2. Index by grade