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Table of contents

1. The Junkyard Cave 39 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.832399, -34.094410

Unique Features And Strengths:

This steep cave offers shady, powerful sport climbing on the best quality sandstone in Sydney.

Description:

Known to locals as Devil's Dropoff and to climbers as The Junkyard Cave, this recently developed sport climbing cave offers amazingly hard solid sandstone (reminiscent of the Grampians) varying from 10 - 35m high with potential for some really hard routes in close proximity to Sydney. Watch you rope length on lower off of some of these routes as you lower off into space. Crag stay dry in light rain, but can seep after extended period of rain, ie 3 - 4 days

Access Issues:

Make sure not to leave anything of value in your car as the parking is a bit suss. Don't leave quickdraws or gear stashed at the crag - the locals will steal it.

Approach:

For The Junkyard cave jump the initial gate take the first R after 100m, then an immediate L at the fork. In a 100m go left on a vague track and follow the rutted track down the hill to a lookout at the top of the crack with a couple of car wrecks. Go R facing out down the gully/track and then back L to the base of the caves.

Ethic:

Bolt, bolt and more bolts... and some chipping.

History:

Discovered by Matt Brooks in winter 2012

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Grand Theft Auto

Fun steep jugs, with a interesting crux. First route you come to after walking down the descent. Start on the R of the scoop follow the bolts up L onto easy ground. Head straight up the jugs to finish.

FA: Marek Brock-Tasler, equipped by Matt Brooks, 2012

19Sport 15m, 7 Tristan 10 months ago

Not what I expected from the ground but enjoyable.

Paul Thomson 1 years ago

Even with the "crux" holds and the slab sopping wet, this one went easily enough. Okay, I suppose...

2 Not Very Ladylike

Currently missing the crux holds so the grade is wrong until repeat.

A direct start to LGG. Some bouldery moves into the top of LGG 2m L of Lady Ger Ger Up the easy first section then work hard to get to the slopey break. Finish up LGGs jugs!

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

23Sport 12m, 8 Ben Jenga 1 years ago

Well it was 23 untill Mitch broken a crucial hold. One shot to suss out the moves then on my seco...

3 * Lady Ger-Ger

Punchy start, punchy finish. Use the hook at the 3rd bolt when cleaning to avoid swinging into the tree..

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

22Sport 15m, 6 Adam Bramwell 9 months ago

I got pumped stupid, probably due to stopping after 0.5m and shaking out for three minutes. Dang ...

Paul Thomson 1 years ago

Second shot today... First shot a quickdraw on my harness clipped through one of the quickdraws o...

4 * Short Sharp Loud

Bouldery steep climbing. At L end of first sandy cave reached on the walk down. Follow the line of rings out the L end of the cave, to a sting in the tail finish

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

25Sport 8m, 5 Matt Miller 1 years ago

Cool moves over the lip. Will get it clean when fresh.

Ben Jenga 1 years ago

4 shots no send... Great monkey jugs down the bottom to a coupe pounce moves to a decent rest the...

5 * Chic Chic Boom Chic

Rad steep pocket pulling start up to a great mix of jugs and slopes. Now finishes directly off the rest via another small boulder.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

26Sport 7 Neil Monteith 1 years ago

2 shots. This is tough but awesome. Hardest bit for me is 2nd bolt using the slopers with bunched...

6 ** Communal Spoon

Locate the "Spoon Bolt". Up and jug blissfully along the the flake to harder finish out left. Also has a direct finish at the same grade.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2013

24Sport 15m Adam Bramwell 9 months ago

Respect. When are you going to tick this mate?

Jason Lammers 1 years ago

Finally found the left knee bar - match that slopey finger jug... Its critical, but still fell o...

7 Bundy - Nowra style pro

Short and punchy, left of SS. Link into CS for the full deal

FA: Project - Jason Lammers

Sport Project 6m
8 Check out my Junk

Short R to L steep mini roof boulder route. Start at the RB in the roof 2m R of SC Boulder up and L to big jug in SC. Cross this and keep going L to join Campbelltown Cookup and finish at its loweroff.

FA: Marek Brock-Tasler, 2013

23Sport 8m, 5 Marek 1 years ago

On the second shot today I managed to complete it. Starts out really steep and then continues as ...

9 Sin City

Mini juggy roof, nowra South Central style! 2m R of CC. The R hand mini route through the lower cave/roof.

FA: Marek Brock-Tasler, equipped by Matt Brooks, 2012

21Sport 6m, 6 Marek 1 years ago

Last climb of the day.

I did another different warm-up traverse climb at the start (not clean).

Paul Thomson 1 years ago

Decided to warm up on this in slimy conditions, thinking it would be a pushover... Um... Yeah... ...

10 Project Matt

Line of bolts above Sin City that links into TFDC

Set by Matt Brooks, 2012

Sport Project 15m, 6
11 *** Full Dole Check

Climb Bogan Direct to the rest jug then climb a harder boulder secquence left to gain great jug line. Wicked rock and a funky sting in the tail. Could be 28??

FA: Ben JengA, Matt Brooks, 2012

27Sport 10 Ben Jenga 1 years ago

F*ck yeah no more working for the dole!! 3rd shot today with a great crew of friends, my hardest ...

Ben Jenga 1 years ago

4 more shots, i was kind of hoping that this route would go today but it was just to hot and me t...

12 *** Bogan Direct

Rad little bouldering route. Starts off the ledge accessed 6m to the right. Wicked steep fridge hugging moves to a jug then more punchy boulder moves.

FFA: Ben Jenga & Andy Richardson, 2012

26Sport 7m, 7 Ben Jenga 1 years ago

RAD. I was kind of hoping this would be harder but when a climb is this fun who can complain. Gre...

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 *** Feral Kitten

A large dynamic move see you started on this bouldery rig, once your a couple of bolts up craft a rest and jug to the top.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2012

27Sport Ben Jenga 1 years ago

Sick a great little prize at the end of a scat/hung over climbing arvo. I tried the hard start a ...

14 *** Cougers

One of the hardest routes in sydney!!

Super steep bouldering on bullet hard stone with some amazing scoops and holds. Right trending line of orange pockets in the centre of the crag.

FFA: Matt Brooks, Ben JengA, 2012

29Sport 15m, 10 George Broadfoot 11 months ago

Sick! Awesome moves on wicked orange sandstone. Rad.

15 Project - Battle Cat

Wow - mega link. Start as for Cougars. Follow it to the seam. Traverse R and up to join 50SOMD at the nose. Head direct up the steep wall to join the JYDE at the final prow.

Set by Matt Brooks, 2012

Sport 35m, 14
16 * Leaking White Lady

Slopey, hard and steep! See the Grafiti for where the name came from!!!! Start as for JYD From the 5RB of JYD traverse L on the slopes staying low to the prow. Go L around this and direct up into the top of FSOMD. Classic slopes testpiece.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2013

28Sport 30m, 15 Matt Brooks 11 months ago

Awesome if you like slopes and a ticky start to the slopes with some cool beta to get it done. Bl...

17 *** Fifty Shades of Mt Druitt.

Climb the start of Junkyard dog and then break left under the roof, around the arete, left some more and up. Best to second to clean or back jump.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

23Sport 25m Marek 11 months ago

2 shots today. Know the moves now. Shouldn't be a problem to send next time...

Marek 1 years ago

Very nervous on this today after not climbing for two weeks but will definitely be cool to try it...

18 *** The Junkyard Dog

Absolute classic steep climbing on Grampians quality rock. Slabby scoop then up seam crack to stance. Swing right on incredible jugs then back left on more jugs to anchor. This is a shared start with 3 other routes so get it dial.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2012

25Sport 17m Matt Brooks 11 months ago

A couple of training laps as it was nice and dry!

Marek 11 months ago

This route has it all. Great steep climbing on solid good quality rock and really fun combination...

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
19 *** Junkyard Dog Extension

Power up the overhung prow above the first anchors. One of the best steep lines in Sydney, if not NSW. A couple of long draws in the roof and the start help the rope drag.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

26Sport 25m George Broadfoot 11 months ago

A great, long roof on excellent rock. Good fun! Cool little crag- 35 mins from home! Awesome.

Neil Monteith 11 months ago

Incredibly good - makes the original even better. Pity the top was a waterfall today.

20 * Sixteen and Pregnant

Bouldery and steep as like most stuff here. Follow JYD to the 5th RB. Skip this and boulder diagonally R up the steep wall to the lower off and L end of the slopey ledge.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

23Sport 15m, 9 Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Slightly committing clip - baulked and dogged it first try. A good fun super steep traverse.

Marek 1 years ago

Very happy to get this second shot today. Didn't feel that strong on the first go but nailed the ...

21 16 year old pregnant crack whore

A link of 16 and Pregnant into Smack Crack, finishing at the anchors for BBBL.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2012

25Sport 25m, 12
22 Smack Crack

Bolted roof crack on right side of main wall. Mantle up a series of shelves for three bolts then solve the tricky roof crack section (reach helps) and finish up massive jugs out left to anchors upside down in roof. No jamming required.

FA: Neil Monteith & Ben Jenga, 2012

22Sport 15m, 6 Neil Monteith 9 months ago

Repeat.

Paul Thomson 1 years ago

Cruised it today in the dark, placing the draws. Crux was pretty slimey, but I wanted to clean up...

23 *** Beep Beep Big Love.

Two easy mantels to start then big moves between big holds. Punchy climbing. Perhaps a bit harder if your short or can't dyno. RIP Jay

FFA: Ben JengA, 2012

24Sport 17m, 8 Matt Brooks 11 months ago

A training lap in the ry

Marek 11 months ago

Nice climbing but one very reachy move that had me baffled. I think I need to elevate my feet fo...

24 * Manufactured Meat

Big roof route! Starts on the far right side of the main cave, just before the scramble up to the right side ledge. Boulder over three tricky shelves to lie down rest underneath massive roof. Crux moves across this 4m ceiling on enriched pockets to pumpy finish. Back-jump to clean.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2012

FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2013

25Sport 15m, 8 Neil Monteith 9 months ago

Mmmmmm Devon works a treat. Especially in handy 12mm snack size.

Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Still feels hard - especially in the sun and 99% humidity

25 *** Bastard Child

Powerful bouldering into BBBL, with a cool iron cross move. 1m L of LGs on the same ledge at a RB above the scramble up from the lower level. Head up diagonally L to jugs crossing Neils project. Continue L and leave the jugs via the iron cross L to the flake. Move up L from this to join BBBL at the crux. Follow this to the anchors.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

27Sport 20m, 10
26 Facey

Roof boulder problem on pockets just right of Bastard Child. Roofy, facey then deathy.

V4Boulder 6m
27 * Cabramatta girls love you long time

Start as for PGPO. Hit the lip and keep going left all the way to the anchors of BBBL. Pumpy with big holds but bring campus arms or be good at heel and toe hooks.

Set by Matt Brooks, 2013

FA: Matt Brooks, 2013

25Sport 15m, 8 Matt Brooks 9 months ago

Good but the holds in the middle need a bit more of a clean. All big holds but its a long way acr...

28 Penriff girls put out.

Climbs liverpool girls then traverses left along the lip of the roof past two bolts to finish at neil project anchors. Back jump or second to clean.

FFA: Ben Jenga, Edwin Emmerick, 2012

23Sport 7 Ben Jenga 1 years ago

Pumpy number, plenty of good juggy holds you just have to find them.

Paul Thomson 1 years ago

Not too bad, I finished the campus out left, but couldn't continue up to the anchors since I stil...

29 Liverpool Girls

Funky arête to slab just outside the cave left of negative funk.

FFA: Glen Norrel, 2012

18Sport Marek 12 months ago

Warm up.

Marek 1 years ago

Warm up for fun.

30 Dirty Arse Crack

The ultra dirty arse crack left of H. Lower offs in the roof and boltless holes drilled. Looks like a classic :-)

Set by Random Dude

Sport Project 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
31 ** Heisenberg - Bundys Project

The vertical slab left of NF to nice big roof and then over the top to anchors.

FA: Project - Jason Lammers

Sport Project 15m, 7 Matt Brooks 11 months ago

Just a play on the bottom of bundys the slab as it was dry!

Neil Monteith 11 months ago

It was dry Bundy! Got the slab section pretty easily on my first try, but then on second attempt ...

32 ** Negative Funk

Steep climbing on excellent rock. Corner to start then right along high break under roof to final cruxy mantle.

FFA: Ben JengA, 2012

21Sport 15m, 7 Matt Brooks 11 months ago

Top was a little damp from the down pour but a nice warm up

Marek 11 months ago

Warm up.

33 ** Early Funk

Link Up. Start up NF and finish on the crimps of EB. Probably better than both of them, its avoids the awkward moves on both climbs..

FA: Link Up

20Sport 15m Tristan 10 months ago

Definitely better than the mantle on Negative Funk. Interesting stemming then very quick through ...

Marek 12 months ago

Great to jump on this today. Down climbed it as well about 3/4 of the way. However down-climbing ...

34 * Early Bird

Starts just right of corner. Up bulging wall to low break, swing right across this and up to stance. Finish up wall on edges to shared anchor with left route.

FA: Neil Monteith, Ben Jenga & Paul Thomson, 2012

23Sport 15m, 6 Tristan 10 months ago

a marginal move early had us stumped for awhile then after we got it sorted we were too pumped to...

Jason Smith 11 months ago

Steep fun. Feel like a millionaire after driving through Airds

35 * Stroke My Mullet

Climb Scrambletown to the 2nd RB then swing left out onto the steep prow. Move left around the arete and up onto the nice top face.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2012

24Sport 15m, 8
36 Scrambletown

Slopey start to nice crack. Awesome orange rock !

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

21Sport 10m, 4 Adam Bramwell 9 months ago

Made a meal of this one

Jason Smith 11 months ago

Dodgy ankle testing - very timid

37 ** Tracksuit Time Warp

Starts up S, traveses right past funky pockets and finishes at SB anchours.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

23Sport Jason Smith 11 months ago

Great steep pockets. Did a desperate forearm mantle as heal hooking was out

Jason Lammers 1 years ago

Funky pockets and features

38 Strange Behaviour

Mantel the start and walk along the ledge to the base of the climb. Get your belayer to unclip the first draw when your established on the next two draws. Finish at the double U bolts above the big heuco. Left random bolt still a project.

Strange Behaviour by Feed Me and Tasha Baxter.

FFA: Ben JengA, Edwin Emmerick, 2012

24Sport 15m, 7 Adam Bramwell 9 months ago

Great climbing, poor commitment from the Adski

Neil Monteith 1 years ago

This is NOT 23! Took me about half an hour to get a sequence that actually worked. Desperate dyno...

39 Junk In Ya Trunk

Roof jugging to a mantle! Down and R of SB. Access this either by scrambling across the slopey slab or through the hole belowTracksuit Timewarp. Climb the slab then R through the roof. Mantle the lip and crank away up the nice head wall!

FFA: 2013

FA: Matt Brooks, 2013

23Sport 15m, 7 Marek 11 months ago

Knew the sequence really well this time. Although I battled a bit with clipping the quickdraw at ...

Neil Monteith 11 months ago

Some fun (chossy) thugging then a horrible mantle. My knees are rating now.

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
18 Liverpool Girls Sport
19 Grand Theft Auto Sport 15m, 7
20 ** Early Funk Sport 15m
21 ** Negative Funk Sport 15m, 7
Scrambletown Sport 10m, 4
Sin City Sport 6m, 6
22 * Lady Ger-Ger Sport 15m, 6
Smack Crack Sport 15m, 6
23 Check out my Junk Sport 8m, 5
* Early Bird Sport 15m, 6
*** Fifty Shades of Mt Druitt. Sport 25m
Junk In Ya Trunk Sport 15m, 7
Not Very Ladylike Sport 12m, 8
Penriff girls put out. Sport 7
* Sixteen and Pregnant Sport 15m, 9
** Tracksuit Time Warp Sport
V4 Facey Boulder 6m
24 *** Beep Beep Big Love. Sport 17m, 8
** Communal Spoon Sport 15m
Strange Behaviour Sport 15m, 7
* Stroke My Mullet Sport 15m, 8
25 16 year old pregnant crack whore Sport 25m, 12
* Cabramatta girls love you long time Sport 15m, 8
* Manufactured Meat Sport 15m, 8
* Short Sharp Loud Sport 8m, 5
*** The Junkyard Dog Sport 17m
26 *** Bogan Direct Sport 7m, 7
* Chic Chic Boom Chic Sport 7
*** Junkyard Dog Extension Sport 25m
27 *** Bastard Child Sport 20m, 10
*** Feral Kitten Sport
*** Full Dole Check Sport 10
28 * Leaking White Lady Sport 30m, 15
29 *** Cougers Sport 15m, 10
? Bundy - Nowra style pro Sport Project 6m
Dirty Arse Crack Sport Project 8m
** Heisenberg - Bundys Project Sport Project 15m, 7
Project - Battle Cat Sport 35m, 14
Project Matt Sport Project 15m, 6