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Table of contents

1. The Junkyard Cave 44 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.832399, -34.094410


These climbs are on the short lower wall below the main cliff ledge.

Access Issues: inherited from The Woolwash

The parking in Woolwash parade looks dodgy and the suburb doesnt have the best reputation, but this street is largely families and oldies, and no issues have arisen out of many visits by the locals. Please be polite to the locals and park on the median strip in the middle and dont leave valuable is the car as a precaution.

Ethic: inherited from The Woolwash


RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Junkyard Cave Upper Tier

1 Grand Theft Auto

Fun steep jugs, with a interesting crux. First route you come to after walking down the descent. Start on the R of the scoop follow the bolts up L onto easy ground. Head straight up the jugs to finish.

FA: Marek Brock-Tasler, equipped by Matt Brooks, 2012

19 Sport 15m, 7
2 Not Very Ladylike

A direct start to LGG. Some bouldery moves into the top of LGG 2m L of Lady Ger Ger Up the easy first section then work hard to get to the slopey break. Finish up LGGs jugs!

Used to be 23 but a couple of holds broke soon after the first ascent, still goes but it is more considered hard 24.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

24 Sport 12m, 8
3 * Lady Ger-Ger

Punchy start, punchy finish. Use the hook at the 3rd bolt when cleaning to avoid swinging into the tree..

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

22 Sport 15m, 6
4 * Short Sharp Loud

Bouldery steep climbing. At L end of first sandy cave reached on the walk down. Follow the line of rings out the L end of the cave, to a sting in the tail finish

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

25 Sport 8m, 5
5 * Chic Chic Boom Chic

Rad steep pocket pulling start up to a great mix of jugs and slopes. Now finishes directly off the rest via another small boulder.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

26 Sport 7
6 ** Communal Spoon

Locate the "Spoon Bolt". Up and jug blissfully along the the flake to harder finish out left. Also has a direct finish at the same grade.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2013

24 Sport 15m
7 Quick Hit, Quick fix / Nowra Needles

Short and punchy, left of SS. Link into CS for the full deal

Set by Jason Lammers

FFA: @benjenga, 2015

21 Sport 6m
8 Check out my Junk

Short R to L steep mini roof boulder route. Start at the RB in the roof 2m R of SC Boulder up and L to big jug in SC. Cross this and keep going L to join Campbelltown Cookup and finish at its loweroff.

FA: Marek Brock-Tasler, 2013

23 Sport 8m, 5
9 Sin City

Mini juggy roof, nowra South Central style! 2m R of CC. The R hand mini route through the lower cave/roof.

FA: Marek Brock-Tasler, equipped by Matt Brooks, 2012

21 Sport 6m, 6
10 Project Matt

Line of bolts above Sin City that links into TFDC. Looks like a very slim chance without some rapid erosion.

Set by Matt Brooks, 2012

Aid Project 15m, 6
11 *** Full Dole Check

Climb Bogan Direct to the rest jug then climb a harder boulder secquence left to gain great jug line. Wicked rock and a funky sting in the tail. Could be 28??

FA: Ben JengA, Matt Brooks, 2012

27 Sport 10
12 *** Bogan Direct

Rad little bouldering route. Starts off the ledge accessed 6m to the right. Wicked steep fridge hugging moves to a jug then more punchy boulder moves.

FFA: Ben Jenga & Andy Richardson, 2012

26 Sport 7m, 7
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 *** Feral Kitten

A large dynamic move see you started on this bouldery rig, once your a couple of bolts up craft a rest and jug to the top.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2012

27 Sport
14 *** Cougars

One of the hardest routes in sydney!!

Super steep bouldering on bullet hard stone with some amazing scoops and holds. Right trending line of orange pockets in the centre of the crag.

FFA: Matt Brooks, Ben JengA, 2012

28 Sport 15m, 10
15 *** Battle Cat

Wow - Mega line. The King line of the crag. Start as for Cougars. Follow it to the seam, traverse R and up to join 50SOMD at the nose and finish at its anchors for now.... Sustained junkyard awesomeness

The Coneheads of the south west.

Set by Matt Brooks, 2012

FFA: @benjenga, 2015

28 Sport 35m, 14
16 ** Leaking White Lady

Slopey, hard and steep! See the Grafiti for where the name came from!!!! Start as for JYD From the 5RB of JYD traverse L on the slopes staying low to the prow. Go L around this and direct up into the top of FSOMD. Classic slopes testpiece.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2013

27 Sport 30m, 15
17 Kids with knifes (project boulder)

So this is a hard V6/7 boulder that links fifty shades or battle cat into the top of the junkyard extension.. Bring your long arms.

Set by @mattbrooks1

Sport Project
18 *** Fifty Shades of Mt Druitt.

Climb the start of Junkyard dog and then break left under the roof, around the arete, left some more and up. Best to second to clean or back jump.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

23 Sport 25m
19 *** The Junkyard Dog

Absolute classic steep climbing on Grampians quality rock. Slabby scoop then up seam crack to stance. Swing right on incredible jugs then back left on more jugs to anchor. This is a shared start with 3 other routes so get it dial.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2012

24 Sport 17m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
20 *** Junkyard Dog Extension

Power up the overhung prow above the first anchors. One of the best steep lines in Sydney, if not NSW. A couple of long draws in the roof and the start help the rope drag.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

26 Sport 25m
21 * Sixteen and Pregnant

Bouldery and steep as like most stuff here. Follow JYD to the 5th RB. Skip this and boulder diagonally R up the steep wall to the lower off and L end of the slopey ledge.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

23 Sport 15m, 9
22 16 year old pregnant crack whore

A link of 16 and Pregnant into Smack Crack, finishing at the anchors for BBBL.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2012

25 Sport 25m 2, 12
23 Smack Crack

Bolted roof crack on right side of main wall. Mantle up a series of shelves for three bolts then solve the tricky roof crack section (reach helps) and finish up massive jugs out left to anchors upside down in roof. No jamming required.

FA: Neil Monteith & Ben Jenga, 2012

22 Sport 15m, 6
24 ** Beep Beep Big Love.

Two easy mantels to start then big moves between big holds. Punchy climbing. Perhaps a bit harder if your short or can't dyno. RIP Jay

FFA: Ben JengA, 2012

24 Sport 17m, 8
25 * Manufactured Meat

Big roof route! Starts on the far right side of the main cave, just before the scramble up to the right side ledge. Boulder over three tricky shelves to lie down rest underneath massive roof. Crux moves across this 4m ceiling on enriched pockets to pumpy finish. Back-jump to clean.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2012

FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2013

25 Sport 15m, 8
26 *** Bastard Child

Powerful bouldering into BBBL, with a cool iron cross move. 1m L of LGs on the same ledge at a RB above the scramble up from the lower level. Head up diagonally L to jugs crossing Neils project. Continue L and leave the jugs via the iron cross L to the flake. Move up L from this to join BBBL at the crux. Follow this to the anchors.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

27 Sport 20m, 10
27 Facey

Roof boulder problem on pockets just right of Bastard Child. Roofy, facey then deathy.

V4 Boulder 6m
28 * Cabramatta girls love you long time

Start as for PGPO. Hit the lip and keep going left all the way to the anchors of BBBL. Pumpy with big holds but bring campus arms or be good at heel and toe hooks.

Set by Matt Brooks, 2013

FA: Matt Brooks, 2013

25 Sport 15m, 8
29 Penriff girls put out.

Climbs liverpool girls then traverses left along the lip of the roof past two bolts to finish at neil project anchors. Back jump or second to clean.

FFA: Ben Jenga, Edwin Emmerick, 2012

23 Sport 7
30 Liverpool Girls

Funky arête to slab just outside the cave left of negative funk.

FFA: Glen Norrel, 2012

18 Sport 14m
31 Dirty Arse Crack

The ultra dirty arse crack left of H. Lower offs in the roof and boltless holes drilled. Looks like a classic

Set by Random Dude

Sport Project 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
32 ** Heisenberg - Bundys Project

The vertical slab left of NF to nice big roof and then over the top to anchors.

FA: Project - Jason Lammers

Sport Project 15m, 7
33 ** Negative Funk

Steep climbing on excellent rock. Corner to start then right along high break under roof to final cruxy mantle.

FFA: Ben JengA, 2012

21 Sport 15m, 7
34 ** Early Funk

Link Up. Start up NF and finish on the crimps of EB. Probably better than both of them, its avoids the awkward moves on both climbs..

FA: Link Up

20 Sport 15m
35 * Early Bird

Starts just right of corner. Up bulging wall to low break, swing right across this and up to stance. Finish up wall on edges to shared anchor with left route.

FA: Neil Monteith, Ben Jenga & Paul Thomson, 2012

23 Sport 15m, 6
36 * Stroke My Mullet

Climb Scrambletown to the 2nd RB then swing left out onto the steep prow. Move left around the arete and up onto the nice top face.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2012

24 Sport 15m, 8
37 * Scrambletown

Slopey start to nice crack. Awesome orange rock !

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

21 Sport 10m, 4
38 ** Tracksuit Time Warp

Starts up S, traveses right past funky pockets and finishes at SB anchours.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2012

23 Sport
39 * Strange Behaviour

Mantel the start and walk along the ledge to the base of the climb. Get your belayer to unclip the first draw when your established on the next two draws. Finish at the double U bolts above the big heuco. Left random bolt still a project.

Strange Behaviour by Feed Me and Tasha Baxter.

FFA: Ben JengA, Edwin Emmerick, 2012

24 Sport 15m, 7
40 Junk In Ya Trunk

Roof jugging to a mantle! Down and R of SB. Access this either by scrambling across the slopey slab or through the hole belowTracksuit Timewarp. Climb the slab then R through the roof. Mantle the lip and crank away up the nice head wall!

FFA: 2013

FA: Matt Brooks, 2013

23 Sport 15m, 7

Junkyard Cave Lower Wall

The following routes are on the short wall below the belay ledge of the main cave routes. Belay in a pile of rubbish. You can either rap down to them, or walk around the side.

41 Western Redneck

Left hand line lower slab.

FFA: Jessica Shaham, 2012

15 Sport 10m, 3
42 Oasis Babes

Boulder the bolted slab. 3m R of WR Some thin bouldery moves directly up the middle of the slab

FFA: Jessica Shaham, 2012

19 Sport 10m, 5
43 Foxy Miss Foxy

Fun little layback. At the obvious flake at the R end of the lower slab. Straight up and into the obvious layback and up to the lower off on the main ledge

FFA: Glen Norrell, 2012

16 Sport 10m, 4
44 Slab Project Matt

Hard Slab past an overlap.

Sport Project

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
15 Western Redneck Sport 10m, 3
16 Foxy Miss Foxy Sport 10m, 4
18 Liverpool Girls Sport 14m
19 Grand Theft Auto Sport 15m, 7
Oasis Babes Sport 10m, 5
20 ** Early Funk Sport 15m
21 ** Negative Funk Sport 15m, 7
Quick Hit, Quick fix Sport 6m
* Scrambletown Sport 10m, 4
Sin City Sport 6m, 6
22 * Lady Ger-Ger Sport 15m, 6
Smack Crack Sport 15m, 6
23 Check out my Junk Sport 8m, 5
* Early Bird Sport 15m, 6
*** Fifty Shades of Mt Druitt. Sport 25m
Junk In Ya Trunk Sport 15m, 7
Penriff girls put out. Sport 7
* Sixteen and Pregnant Sport 15m, 9
** Tracksuit Time Warp Sport
V4 Facey Boulder 6m
24 ** Beep Beep Big Love. Sport 17m, 8
** Communal Spoon Sport 15m
Not Very Ladylike Sport 12m, 8
* Strange Behaviour Sport 15m, 7
* Stroke My Mullet Sport 15m, 8
*** The Junkyard Dog Sport 17m
25 16 year old pregnant crack whore Sport 25m 2, 12
* Cabramatta girls love you long time Sport 15m, 8
* Manufactured Meat Sport 15m, 8
* Short Sharp Loud Sport 8m, 5
26 *** Bogan Direct Sport 7m, 7
* Chic Chic Boom Chic Sport 7
*** Junkyard Dog Extension Sport 25m
27 *** Bastard Child Sport 20m, 10
*** Feral Kitten Sport
*** Full Dole Check Sport 10
** Leaking White Lady Sport 30m, 15
28 *** Battle Cat Sport 35m, 14
*** Cougars Sport 15m, 10
? Dirty Arse Crack Sport Project 8m
** Heisenberg - Bundys Project Sport Project 15m, 7
Kids with knifes (project boulder) Sport Project
Project Matt Aid Project 15m, 6
Slab Project Matt Sport Project