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Summary

Nice little place with easy access from Melbourne. Top-roping or trad to keep you amused for the day with a couple of short sport routes. Bring bolt plates.

Description

There are ring bolts and fixed hangers set back from the top of the cliff, bring a static line, cordelette or similar if you intend to use them. The base of the cliff is split by three major steps and tiers all accessible by walking down from the steps at the top. Please stick to the defined tracks to prevent erosion.

Access issues

The site is closed from 1 August to 30 November due to the peregrine falcon breeding season.

Approach

From Anakie drive down the Ballan-Geelong rd and turn right on to Staughton Vale rd then take a left at Mcleans hwy. After several km's you will reach a car park on the left and then it is a 10 minute walk along the track to the face.

Routes

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Grade Route

1m L of LJ at the top of the first tier.

FA: Martin Lama, Dave Karla, Raymond La Grand & Rav Pennell, 1991

At the left side of the highest tier follow the crack up and R.

FA: Michael 'Wonderdog' Woodrow, Dave Karla, Raymond La Grand & Jayne Wallace, 1991

Starts 2m R of LJ. Up face, over buldge to seem.

FA: Michael 'Wonderdog' Woodrow & Ian Campbell, 1991

Follow the two BRs R of VoF to crack near top.

FA: Michael 'Wonderdog' Woodrow & Ian Campbell, 1991

R of LZ, head up to the BR. Then up and L, passing a hole to finish up LZ's crack.

FA: Michael 'Wonderdog' Woodrow & Ian Campbell, 1991

Direct finish to AA. After the BR head straight up.

2m right of AA. Follow crack to quartz. Continue to little cave R then up to top and 2 FHs belay.

FA: Bill Andrews & Tony Amiconi, 1969

From the quartz of FW head @ 18m to 'niche'. Diagonally R till above cave and top out.

FA: Bill Andrews & Tony Amiconi, 1969

Start halfway up between the 1st and 2nd tier. Small crack to ledge. Then up and R to gain the diagonal line. Finish L of top block.

FA: Geoff Gledhill & Phillip Gledhill, 1969

First climb on the L of the 2nd tier. Tackle the wall up to the thin crack. Head straight up passing a BR near the top where you should see two stray BRs to your left in a cutout and one to your right.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Peter Hamilton, 1970

FFA: Nick Reeves, 1974

Starts to the R of TFC and takes the thinner R leading crack. FH near top.

FA: Philip Armstrong, 1978

Lichen covered slab between YAC and WS. Up to quartz band. L and up to ledge then another L and up to the top.

FA: Dave Mudie, John Chapman & Nick Reeves, 1974

Begins 6m L of the end of the 2nd tier. Take the wide yet shallow crack to a ledge. Continue up and R to get to big ledge before overhang. Over on the left to gain crack and top out.

FA: Alan Glendhill & Geoff Glendhill, 1958

Where the 2nd tier ends climb up to meet a diagonal ramp. Head to a small ledge then around the overhang and up.

FA: Geoff Glendhill & Phillip Glendhill, 1968

At lowest tier take the steep wall up to through overhang. At the back of the ledge navigate around follage and take the corner to continue up.

FA: Phillip Glendhill & Geoff Glendhill, 1968

At far right of lowest tier climb to small cave. Exit left and follow seam to large ledge. Carefully navigate the chose pile at the back of the ledge to top out.

FA: Peter Watling & Ian Boehm, 1969

Activity

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