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Sutherland 581 routes in Crag

  • Avg. Height: 11m
  • Style: Sport,Boulder and other styles
  • Favorites: 48
  • Ascents: 4,823

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Unique Features And Strengths:

The Shire has a long history of climbing. Accessible cliffs, routes you do not have to die for and a variety of locations keep the suburbanite climbers happy. Because of the not so steep nature of much of the sandstone in the area, a lot of routes are of a moderate grade making it a good place for new climbers to develop their craft.

Description:

Most of the climbing can be found on the rim of the hills, overlooking the Woronora River and Georges Rivers. The rock is the usual Sydney sandstone but the Cathedral has a a weird type of stone that is a refreshing change from the norm.

Access Issues:

There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.

Ethic:

There are no real ethics in Sydney, ethics were surrended to the Riobi and Hilti crews in the 1990's. It is common that people retro-bolt. Places like Bonnet Bay, Wastelands and Heathcote being good examples. In recent times, old routes have been repeated and renamed at places which is a little dissapointing. It would be sad to see the crags grid locked with rings.

History:

Climbing has been going on since the 1960's in the Shire. Gossip has it that an old doctor used to play around the cliffs on the Woronora River in those early years. Joe Friend was also known to climb here back in the 1970's. You can find some old pitons, pin scars at odd locations such as the Heathcote Bridge, Menai area and at the Cathederal. It was common that Scouts and at times the Army regularly frequented places like Menai, Lucas Heights and Alfords Point.

The 1980's saw a steep rise in development with climbers from the Loftus Crew, Anthony Scharnbel,Damian Taylor and Bruce Stevens. A big influence in the 1980-1990's was David Barnes. Dave developed several new areas and put up scores of routes across the shire, including the classic routes at Rainbow Wall and Ruthless Babe and a handful of others at Heathcote. He has now moved onto Tassie. Mikl of course had flurries of activity at the Cathedral, Bonnett Bay and Heathcote when he was working with Homer Simpson at the Lucas Heights Nuclear facility. A Young Graham Fairburn made a good contribution to the Cathederal, before growing muscles at Nowra.

In the last ten years Jason Lammers has added new routes as well as re-bolting the old routes, lower offs and rings have been added to most shire crags now. As of 2010 Neil Monteith has been living in the area so a new chapter of history is a given. What will you add? DB

Areas

Map Name Style Climbs Ascents Height Grade Band Topos
1Bald Face Point Area Top Rope,Trad and Sport 2216m
2Oatley Park Area All Unknown 8396m
3Lugarno Area Mostly Sport 142912m
4Alford's Point Area Sport,? and Trad 3013813m 1
5Picnic Point Area ?,Sport and Aid 81612m
6Illawong Area Sport,Top Rope and Trad 231469m
7The Cathedral Woronora Area Sport,Trad and other styles 6053115m 8
8Bangor West Area Sport,Top Rope and other styles 741,59111m 11
9Bonnet Bay Area Top Rope,Sport and Trad 2830312m
10Janalli Area Top Rope,Sport and Trad 887m
11Jannali Reserve (Bouldering) Unknown All Boulder 53
12Barden Ridge Area Trad,Sport and other styles 148110m
13Lucas Heights Area Mostly Sport 101613m
14Heathcote Weir Area All Unknown 3324m
15The Wastelands Area ?,Sport and Trad 733189m
16The Wok Area Sport,Trad 19949m
17Bluebell Area Sport,Top Rope and Trad 2652112m
18Dickhead's Area Area ?,Boulder 749m
19Bass and Flinder's Point Area All Unknown 576m
20Bonnet Bay (Bouldering) Area All Boulder 171364m
21The Villas Area All Boulder 39323 6
22Prices Cave Area All Sport 6410m
23The Fish Boulders Area All Boulder 31298
24Dead Chinaman's Wall Area All Boulder 1057
25The Cemetery (Bouldering) Area All Boulder 636m
26Alfords Point Bouldering Area Mostly Boulder 1357
27Sandshoes (bouldering) Area All Boulder 615
28. Area All Unknown 60
29The Wing Cave Area All Boulder 2780
30Prices Cave (bouldering) Area All Boulder 30

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