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Description

Absolute roadside cragging! A generally slabby and unfashionable cliff with a fair selection of mid to hard grade routes. Some of these routes were retro-chipped in the 90s. Most routes are now covered in dirt and lichen . Be VERY CAREFUL not to drop rocks onto the road which is literally centimeters from the crag.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Approach

To get to the crag, drive south down Forest Rd, 'Lugarno', and stop about 200m from its end. The cliff is located on the right hand side of the road (watch out for cars).

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
24 ** Giles Sport 12m, 3

Start below the right hand arete of the main wall. "A prominent nose, a bit thin on top.".

2
24 ** Rotpunkt Sport 12m, 4

Start left of G. Up, passing 4 BRs.

3
18 * Prix Sport 12m, 4

Start: Left of R. Up tending right (4 BRs).

4
23 Flying Coyotes Sport 12m
5
23 ** All Juiced Up Sport 12m
6
23 * Git Squelchin' Sport 12m
7
23 Sleeping Women Sport 12m
8
24 * Hit the Bus Sport 12m
9
20 ** Rhythm and Bondage Sport 12m
10
23 ** Skin Sport 12m
11
20 Mr Plod Sport 12m
12
23 Perpetual Motion Sport 12m
13
21 No Standing Sport 12m
14
23 Perfect Pitch Sport 12m

Activity

Check out what is happening in Lugarno.