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This has to be one of the easiest accessed cliffs in Sydney. A dozen very doable and well protected routes for the after work, suburban fix. Skin is a must do, if you can do it?

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.


Drive about two thirds of the way down Redman Ave in 'Illawong'. Park opposite number 31. The cliff is located about 10m directly off the road, with descents at either end of the cliff.

© (Zack)

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Grade Route
17 Butt Ugly with Gravy Sport 7m, 2

Starts just right of the detached block, below a small, bulgy black wall. Up (RB and FH) to BB.

23 Just Dance (project) Unknown 9m
18 * Pissing With the Wind Sport 10m, 4

Start on block under low roof. Up and out the left hand side of the steep prow (3 FHs), then up the easy sandy slab above (dodgy BR) to double BB belay.

21 * Let's Get Ripped Sport 10m, 4

Really weird climbing. Up to first FH on PWtW, then follow flake right through sandy overhang (2 more FHs). Up the arete ridge to rejoin PWtW (BR to double BB belay).


Start just round the corner of LGR off detached block. Chin undercut start and follow crack (3 BRs). First move is hard.

FA: S. Tullock & D. Stone, 2000

21 ** Skin Sport 10m, 3

Best route at the crag! Start below left side of bulging, grey slab. Tenuous arete to start, then straight up the engaging slab above. 3 FHs to triple BB.

FA: Dave Barnes

17 * Bulges Sport 10m, 3

Also excellent! Up right side of bulging slab. Use the arete to start then go left onto slab. 3 BRs to triple BB.


Fun layback flake on trad gear.

17 * Dodgy Bolt Sport 10m, 3

Contrived but engaging. Follow 3 BRs (staying left of the crease) to a double BB belay up on top of the cliff (or lower off BRs on ledge 2m lower down).

Start: 1m right of StN

FA: D. Stone & T. Pool, 1992

16 Flaky Sport 10m, 3

Up, staying just right of the crease (3 BRs to the same double BB belay). The first BR looks very dodgy.

Start: 1m right of DB.

FA: D. Stone & T. Pool, 1992

15 * Troada Sport 10m, 4

Stand up to face, then move right, following 4 BRs. Same belay as for DB and F.

Start: As for F.

FA: P. Faill & D. Stone, 1992


Hand traverse the lip of the roof, then mantle up to join T.

Start: As for T.

FA: Doug Smith, 1999

? A (Project) Unknown 10m

Top rope only?

Start: Right of T.

18 * Chicken Therapy Trad 10m

Start: Inside cave at left-hand corner crack. Follow crack all the way to roof (mid-sized cams), then out and up. DBB at top set back and to the right.

FA: Phil Ward, 2010

15 * Olympic Spirit Sport 8m, 2

10m right of CT. Featured arete at right end of chossy cave with two FHs. Really fun steep climbing. Bonus lower-off chain.


Up the slab (2 FHs) to BB.

Start: Right of the right hand crack.

FA: David Barnes, 2000

18 * Breakfast Radio Trad 8m

Up short seam (dodgy micro wires), then up wall (FH) and arete to double BB.

Start: Right side of arete.

FA: David Barnes, 2000

? B Unknown 10m

Up the crack (BR near top), over small roof to chain lower off.

Start: Below incipient corner crack.

16 Angel 125 Unknown 10m

Up the crack then out steep section (2 FHs) to double BB.

Start: 6m right of B, below vague crack.

FA: David Barnes, 2000


Up DOB to FH, then move right following the seam (wires, mid size cam and FH). Up to double BB.

21 Dykes on Bikes Mixed 9m, 2

Cool features. Below the right hand side of the next arete to the right. Onto wall (FH) and left to the dyke (FH). Up (mid size cam) to double BB.

V3 All Fours Unknown

A boulder problem starting on small block and traversing right to finish in flake in roof. Located below start of PWW.


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