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Description

This has to be one of the easiest accessed cliffs in Sydney. A dozen very doable and well protected routes for the after work, suburban fix. Skin is a must do, if you can do it?

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.

Approach

Drive about two thirds of the way down Redman Ave in 'Illawong'. Park opposite number 31. The cliff is located about 10m directly off the road, with descents at either end of the cliff.

© (Zack)

Ethic inherited from Sutherland

There are no real ethics in Sydney, ethics were surrended to the Riobi and Hilti crews in the 1990's. It is common that people retro-bolt. Places like Bonnet Bay, Wastelands and Heathcote being good examples. In recent times, old routes have been repeated and renamed at places which is a little dissapointing. It would be sad to see the crags grid locked with rings.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
17 Butt Ugly with Gravy Sport 7m, 2

Starts just right of the detached block, below a small, bulgy black wall. Up (RB and FH) to BB.

3
23 Just Dance (project) Unknown 9m
4
18 * Pissing With the Wind Sport 10m, 4

Start on block under low roof. Up and out the left hand side of the steep prow (3 FHs), then up the easy sandy slab above (dodgy BR) to double BB belay.

5
21 * Let's Get Ripped Sport 10m, 4

Really weird climbing. Up to first FH on PWtW, then follow flake right through sandy overhang (2 more FHs). Up the arete ridge to rejoin PWtW (BR to double BB belay).

6

Start just round the corner of LGR off detached block. Chin undercut start and follow crack (3 BRs). First move is hard.

FA: S. Tullock, D. Stone, 2000

7
21 * Skin Sport 10m, 3

Best route at the crag! Start below left side of bulging, grey slab. Tenuous arete to start, then straight up the engaging slab above. 3 FHs to triple BB.

FA: Dave Barnes

8
17 * Bulges Sport 10m, 3

Also excellent! Up right side of bulging slab. Use the arete to start then go left onto slab. 3 BRs to triple BB.

9

Fun layback flake on trad gear.

10
17 Dodgy Bolt Sport 10m, 3

Contrived but engaging. Follow 3 BRs (staying left of the crease) to a double BB belay up on top of the cliff (or lower off BRs on ledge 2m lower down).

Start: 1m right of StN

FA: D. Stone, T. Pool, 1992

11
16 Flaky Sport 10m, 3

Up, staying just right of the crease (3 BRs to the same double BB belay). The first BR looks very dodgy.

Start: 1m right of DB.

FA: D. Stone, T. Pool, 1992

12
15 Troada Sport 10m, 4

Stand up to face, then move right, following 4 BRs. Same belay as for DB and F.

Start: As for F.

FA: P. Faill, D. Stone, 1992

13

Hand traverse the lip of the roof, then mantle up to join T.

Start: As for T.

FA: Doug Smith, 1999

14
? A (Project) Unknown 10m

Top rope only?

Start: Right of T.

15
18 Chicken Therapy Trad 10m

Start: Inside cave at left-hand corner crack. Follow crack all the way to roof (mid-sized cams), then out and up. DBB at top set back and to the right.

FA: Phil Ward, 2010

16
15 Olympic Spirit Sport 8m, 2

10m right of CT. Featured arete at right end of chossy cave with two FHs. Really fun steep climbing. Bonus lower-off chain.

17

Up the slab (2 FHs) to BB.

Start: Right of the right hand crack.

FA: David Barnes, 2000

18
18 * Breakfast Radio Trad 8m

Up short seam (dodgy micro wires), then up wall (FH) and arete to double BB.

Start: Right side of arete.

FA: David Barnes, 2000

19
? B Unknown 10m

Up the crack (BR near top), over small roof to chain lower off.

Start: Below incipient corner crack.

20
16 * Angel 125 Unknown 10m

Up the crack then out steep section (2 FHs) to double BB.

Start: 6m right of B, below vague crack.

FA: David Barnes, 2000

21

Up DOB to FH, then move right following the seam (wires, mid size cam and FH). Up to double BB.

22
21 Dykes on Bikes Mixed 9m, 2

Cool features. Below the right hand side of the next arete to the right. Onto wall (FH) and left to the dyke (FH). Up (mid size cam) to double BB.

23
V3 All Fours Unknown

A boulder problem starting on small block and traversing right to finish in flake in roof. Located below start of PWW.