A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide.

For more information refer to our Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Illawong 23 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Unknown and Trad
Description:

This has to be one of the easiest accessed cliffs in Sydney. A dozen very doable and well protected routes for the after work, suburban fix. Skin is a must do, if you can do it?

Approach:© (Zack)

Drive about two thirds of the way down Redman Ave in 'Illawong'. Park opposite number 31. The cliff is located about 10m directly off the road, with descents at either end of the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Butt Ugly with Gravy

Starts just right of the detached block, below a small, bulgy black wall. Up (RB and FH) to BB.

17Sport 7m, 2
2 Dykes on Bikes (project) 20Unknown 9m
3 Just Dance (project) 23Unknown 9m
4 * Pissing With the Wind

Start on block under low roof. Up and out the left hand side of the steep prow (3 FHs), then up the easy sandy slab above (dodgy BR) to double BB belay.

18Sport 10m, 4
5 * Let's Get Ripped

Really weird climbing. Up to first FH on PWtW, then follow flake right through sandy overhang (2 more FHs). Up the arete ridge to rejoin PWtW (BR to double BB belay).

21Sport 10m, 4
6 Open the Pod Bay Door Hal

Start just round the corner of LGR off detached block. Chin undercut start and follow crack (3 BRs). First move is hard.

FA: S. Tullock, D. Stone, 2000

17Sport 10m, 3
7 * Skin

Best route at the crag! Start below left side of bulging, grey slab. Tenuous arete to start, then straight up the engaging slab above. 3 FHs to triple BB.

FA: Dave Barnes

21Sport 10m, 3
8 * Bulges

Also excellent! Up right side of bulging slab. Use the arete to start then go left onto slab. 3 BRs to triple BB.

17Sport 10m, 3
9 Shlonging the Nurse

Fun layback flake on trad gear.

13Trad 10m
10 Dodgy Bolt

Contrived but engaging. Follow 3 BRs (staying left of the crease) to a double BB belay up on top of the cliff (or lower off BRs on ledge 2m lower down).

Start: 1m right of StN

FA: D. Stone, T. Pool, 1992

17Sport 10m, 3
11 Flaky

Up, staying just right of the crease (3 BRs to the same double BB belay). The first BR looks very dodgy.

Start: 1m right of DB.

FA: D. Stone, T. Pool, 1992

16Sport 10m, 3
12 Troada

Stand up to face, then move right, following 4 BRs. Same belay as for DB and F.

Start: As for F.

FA: P. Faill, D. Stone, 1992

15Sport 10m, 4
13 Troada Direct Start

Hand traverse the lip of the roof, then mantle up to join T.

Start: As for T.

FA: Doug Smith, 1999

19Sport 8m
14 A (Project)

Top rope only?

Start: Right of T.

?Unknown 10m
15 Chicken Therapy

Start: Inside cave at left-hand corner crack. Follow crack all the way to roof (mid-sized cams), then out and up. DBB at top set back and to the right.

FA: Phil Ward, 2010

18Trad 10m
16 Olympic Spirit

10m right of CT. Featured arete at right end of chossy cave with two FHs. Really fun steep climbing. Bonus lower-off chain.

15Sport 8m, 2
17 Blood from the Territory

Up the slab (2 FHs) to BB.

Start: Right of the right hand crack.

FA: David Barnes, 2000

15Sport 8m
18 * Breakfast Radio

Up short seam (dodgy micro wires), then up wall (FH) and arete to double BB.

Start: Right side of arete.

FA: David Barnes, 2000

18Trad 8m
19 B

Up the crack (BR near top), over small roof to chain lower off.

Start: Below incipient corner crack.

?Unknown 10m
20 * Angel 125

Up the crack then out steep section (2 FHs) to double BB.

Start: 6m right of B, below vague crack.

FA: David Barnes, 2000

16Unknown 10m
21 Just Dance (open project)

Up DOB to FH, then move right following the seam (wires, mid size cam and FH). Up to double BB.

Mixed 9m, 2
22 Dykes on Bikes

Cool features. Below the right hand side of the next arete to the right. Onto wall (FH) and left to the dyke (FH). Up (mid size cam) to double BB.

21Mixed 9m, 2
23 All Fours

A boulder problem starting on small block and traversing right to finish in flake in roof. Located below start of PWW.

V3Unknown

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
13 Shlonging the Nurse Trad 10m
15 Blood from the Territory Sport 8m
Olympic Spirit Sport 8m, 2
Troada Sport 10m, 4
16 * Angel 125 Unknown 10m
Flaky Sport 10m, 3
17 * Bulges Sport 10m, 3
Butt Ugly with Gravy Sport 7m, 2
Dodgy Bolt Sport 10m, 3
Open the Pod Bay Door Hal Sport 10m, 3
18 * Breakfast Radio Trad 8m
Chicken Therapy Trad 10m
* Pissing With the Wind Sport 10m, 4
19 Troada Direct Start Sport 8m
20 Dykes on Bikes (project) Unknown 9m
21 Dykes on Bikes Mixed 9m, 2
* Let's Get Ripped Sport 10m, 4
* Skin Sport 10m, 3
V3 All Fours Unknown
23 Just Dance (project) Unknown 9m
? Just Dance (open project) Mixed 9m, 2
A (Project) Unknown 10m
B Unknown 10m