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Routes in Illawong

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Showing all 23 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
17 Butt Ugly with Gravy

Starts just right of the detached block, below a small, bulgy black wall. Up (RB and FH) to BB.

Sport 7m, 2
20 Dykes on Bikes (project)
Unknown 9m
23 Just Dance (project)
Unknown 9m
18 Pissing With the Wind

Start on block under low roof. Up and out the left hand side of the steep prow (3 FHs), then up the easy sandy slab above (dodgy BR) to double BB belay.

Sport 10m, 4
21 Let's Get Ripped

Really weird climbing. Up to first FH on PWtW, then follow flake right through sandy overhang (2 more FHs). Up the arete ridge to rejoin PWtW (BR to double BB belay).

Sport 10m, 4
17 Open the Pod Bay Door Hal

Start just round the corner of LGR off detached block. Chin undercut start and follow crack (3 BRs). First move is hard.

FA: S. Tullock & D. Stone, 2000

Sport 10m, 3
21 Skin

Best route at the crag! Start below left side of bulging, grey slab. Tenuous arete to start, then straight up the engaging slab above--tricky top out, slightly easier to left in shallow and narrow chimney. 3 FHs to single carrot (best to top out, rap from tree at back, or build anchor with v-long sling to carrot at top of Bulges).

FA: Dave Barnes

Sport 10m, 3
17 Bulges

Also excellent! Up right side of bulging slab. Use the arete to start then go left onto slab. 3 BRs to triple BB.

Sport 10m, 3
13 Shlonging the Nurse

Fun layback flake on trad gear.

Trad 10m
17 Dodgy Bolt

Contrived but engaging. Follow 3 BRs (staying left of the crease) to a double BB belay up on top of the cliff (or lower off BRs on ledge 2m lower down).

Start: 1m right of StN

FA: D. Stone & T. Pool, 1992

Sport 10m, 3
16 Flaky

Up, staying just right of the crease (3 BRs to the same double BB belay). The first BR looks very dodgy.

Start: 1m right of DB.

FA: D. Stone & T. Pool, 1992

Sport 10m, 3
15 Troada

Stand up to face, then move right, following 4 BRs. Same belay as for DB and F.

Start: As for F.

FA: P. Faill & D. Stone, 1992

Sport 10m, 4
19 Troada Direct Start

Hand traverse the lip of the roof, then mantle up to join T.

Start: As for T.

FA: Doug Smith, 1999

Sport 8m
? A (Project)

Top rope only?

Start: Right of T.

Unknown 10m
18 Chicken Therapy

Start: Inside cave at left-hand corner crack. Follow crack all the way to roof (mid-sized cams), then out and up. DBB at top set back and to the right.

FA: Phil Ward, 2010

Trad 10m
15 Olympic Spirit

10m right of CT. Featured arete at right end of chossy cave with two FHs. Really fun steep climbing. Bonus lower-off chain.

Sport 8m, 2
15 Blood from the Territory

Up the slab (2 FHs) to BB.

Start: Right of the right hand crack.

FA: David Barnes, 2000

Sport 8m
18 Breakfast Radio

Up short seam (dodgy micro wires), then up wall (FH) and arete to double BB.

Start: Right side of arete.

FA: David Barnes, 2000

Trad 8m
? B

Up the crack (BR near top), over small roof to chain lower off.

Start: Below incipient corner crack.

Unknown 10m
16 Angel 125

Up the crack then out steep section (2 FHs) to double BB.

Start: 6m right of B, below vague crack.

FA: David Barnes, 2000

Unknown 10m
Just Dance (open project)

Up DOB to FH, then move right following the seam (wires, mid size cam and FH). Up to double BB.

Mixed trad 9m, 2
21 Dykes on Bikes

Cool features. Below the right hand side of the next arete to the right. Onto wall (FH) and left to the dyke (FH). Up (mid size cam) to double BB.

FA: Dave Pastafarian, 16 May 2020

Mixed trad 9m, 2
V3 All Fours

A boulder problem starting on small block and traversing right to finish in flake in roof. Located below start of PWW.

Unknown

Showing all 23 routes.

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