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The Cathedral just off the banks of the Woronora River in the heart of the Shire. It's is possibly the highest crag in Sydney town with a height of 30m in some sections, with great rock its hard to think why the crag does not get more visitors. This crag has something for everyone from 3star 28's, great sporty little 16s, and possibly the hardest trad climb in NSW.
Access issues inherited from Sutherland
There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.
Maybe the old access, was why not too many dudes visited this crag. With the construction of the new Bangor bypass things have now changed. Instead of the 30min walk along the river, there is now a 5 min walk down a hill to the top of crag, and then a short scramble around to the right (facing the river) to the base of the cliff. This track is still quite new and does not have escalators installed so may be a little rough for the next few months.
'The Cathedral' can now be accessed from Shackel road, Bangor. If coming from Sutherland, drive over the big new bridge over the river, then take the next left into Akuna (as for 'Bangor West' crag), follow this until it turns in to Menai Rd, turn left again into Pyree street, follow this until you are at Bangor school, then left again in Shackel Rd - this goes under the new bypass. Park at the dead end (there is not a parking station installed here so plz try and be nice to the locals). Now follow the track (marked with red and white tags) down the hill to the crag.
Some people may perfer the original access, this involves a longer but easier (flatter) walk along the river.
To get to the crag, park in Prince Edward Park in Woronora (or walk down the hill from Sutherland railway station). Cross the footbridge, turn left and follow the track along the river for about 1km. Although you walk past the right hand slabs first, they aren't as obvious as the main wall, which looms above the track about 20m to the right. Bash up through the jungle to the base of the crag. Estimated walking time: 30 min"
Ethic inherited from Sutherland
There are no real ethics in Sydney, ethics were surrended to the Riobi and Hilti crews in the 1990's. It is common that people retro-bolt. Places like Bonnet Bay, Wastelands and Heathcote being good examples. In recent times, old routes have been repeated and renamed at places which is a little dissapointing. It would be sad to see the crags grid locked with rings.
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