A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.


Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our Usage policy


Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:


The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. The Cathedral Woronora 99 routes in Crag

Sport, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.030896, -34.023837

Description:© (bundybear)

The Cathedral just off the banks of the Woronora River in the heart of the Shire. It's is possibly the highest crag in Sydney town with a height of 30m in some sections, with great rock its hard to think why the crag does not get more visitors. This crag has something for everyone from 3star 28's, great sporty little 16s, and possibly the hardest trad climb in NSW.

Access Issues: inherited from Sutherland

There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.

Approach:© (bundybear)

Maybe the old access, was why not too many dudes visited this crag. With the construction of the new Bangor bypass things have now changed. Instead of the 30min walk along the river, there is now a 5 min walk down a hill to the top of crag, and then a short scramble around to the right (facing the river) to the base of the cliff. This track is still quite new and does not have escalators installed so may be a little rough for the next few months.

'The Cathedral' can now be accessed from Shackel road, Bangor. If coming from Sutherland, drive over the big new bridge over the river, then take the next left into Akuna (as for 'Bangor West' crag), follow this until it turns in to Menai Rd, turn left again into Pyree street, follow this until you are at Bangor school, then left again in Shackel Rd - this goes under the new bypass. Park at the dead end (there is not a parking station installed here so plz try and be nice to the locals). Now follow the track (marked with red and white tags) down the hill to the crag.

Some people may perfer the original access, this involves a longer but easier (flatter) walk along the river.


To get to the crag, park in Prince Edward Park in Woronora (or walk down the hill from Sutherland railway station). Cross the footbridge, turn left and follow the track along the river for about 1km. Although you walk past the right hand slabs first, they aren't as obvious as the main wall, which looms above the track about 20m to the right. Bash up through the jungle to the base of the crag. Estimated walking time: 30 min"

1.1. The Wedges 19 routes in Boulder

All Boulder

Funky highball easy slabs (with anchors for toproping)


Walk down 2 minutes as for the cathedral till you get to a little rock step. Go straight ahead under a little cave where the first problems are. Go 10m then down to the base of the first wedge.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Blind Fury

Start matched in the mini-cave to the left of 'Tufa One', resisting the urge to place feet on broken block. Move through the short cave onto face holds then up into break, moving right around the arete onto jug then top out.

Set by Mikl

FA: J. Budden, 2014

V4 Boulder
2 *** Tufa One

Where you walk past a short overhang, this is the tufa-like line. Start in the back, thru roof, and up.

FA: mikl, 2014

V4 Boulder
3 ** The Times and Crimes of Professor Cuntley

Stand-start on the slot jug on the right arete of the Tufa One bloc (back wall on for feet). Dyno to rounded nose on arete and move left, topping out as for Tufa One.

FA: Brett Heino, 2014

V4 Boulder
4 ** Butt Crack

Up the crack

FA: mikl, 2013

V2 Boulder 8m
5 * Right Cheek

Start up on hanging plate 1m R of Butt Crack. Finish up thin pinchy rib thing

FA: mikl, 2013

V3 Boulder 8m
6 Builder's Moneybox

Start on left side of right arete. one hard move then up easy slab and arete.

FA: mikl, 2013

V4 Boulder 8m
7 * Slice of Pi

Step on from Right side of right arete and up easy slab and arete.

FA: Gareth Downey, 2013

V3 Boulder 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 *** Chocolate Barbarian

Start under left arete, back wall is on for first move only. Slap up and hand-traverse up 45 degree arete.

FA: mikl, 2013

V4 Boulder 8m
9 * Slice

Standing start, pull up and onto right side of arete. Sit start as for Choc Barbarian adds a grade

FA: mikl, 2013

V1 Boulder 8m
10 ** Wedding Cake Island

The top slab is a bit harder. Start 2m right of centre on 2 handed rail and pull onto slab, then drift left then up.

FA: mikl, 2013

V3 Boulder 9m
11 Self-saucing Yorkshire Puddin

Start far right in corner on big slopes (right boulder is off) and up to easy finish.

FA: Gareth Downey, 2013

V3 Boulder 9m
12 *** Wheel of Cheese

Start on big slopes just left of corner (as for SSYP) and then traverse the lip (back wall is on for feet till you get to the pockets/toehooks at the start of Choc Barbarian) and finish up Chocolate Barbarian. A classic pumper.

FA: mikl, 2014

V5 Boulder 14m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 Muffin top

Tenuous laybacking, start on left egde and layback directly up the left edge, the 2 holds in the centre of the slab are off

FA: mikl, 2014

V4 Boulder 5m
14 Hummingbird Cake

Short and funky and slabby. Start on the left edge and head up to 2 good holds in the centre of the slab.

FA: mikl, 2013

V3 Boulder 5m
15 * Jazz Hands

Start left side of R arete, pull on then easier.

FA: Jeff Crass, 2013

V2 Boulder 5m
16 Victorian Scrungecake

Right side of arete with awkward start

FA: Gareth Downey, 2013

V2 Boulder 5m
17 Gutscraper Ridge

Up left side of tombstone boulder

V0 Boulder 5m
18 Tombstone Arete

Instead of going under the cave to the bouldering, continue down the Cathedral track for 20m to a slabby boulder just left of the track. Up the centre of the tombstone

V1 Boulder 5m
19 Jugs

right side of slab, starting on jugs

V0 Boulder 4m

1.2. Main Crag 80 routes in Area

Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 151.030694, -34.023839


This Cathedral, named after the “holy” feature in the centre of the main crag, is a rare find for Sydney suburban climbing. Firstly, it's 25 meters high and the rock is not your average Sydney sandstone which makes for some variety. Secondly, the weird location, the tall trees and the huge mosquitoes give this place a Jurassic Park adventurer like feeling.

People, including Joe Friend, were known to have climbed here way back in the 1970's but in the most part it went underneath the radar. In 1990 two puny teenagers, Kent Heffernan and Graham Fairburn unearthed the place establishing many of the classics. They soon attracted the sharks, Dave Barnes and Mike Law and his band of merry men (and women). Bruce Stevens and his local crew also were working on some hard projects here. There are some wicked cracks to jump on and some technical face and slab routes sprinkled throughout. My favorites are Ozone Action (17) and Hercules (22). There is also a slabby bouldering area on the walk in, described in the SRC guide (below).

There is now a good access route from Menai at the top. P.S. Sorry fella’s, I lost the padlock key to the bracket on Jaded Cravings (23) Doh. However, the padlock does add character to the climb. Have fun. Barnsey

Routes are described left to right as you face the crag.


Park at the end of Shackel Rd, Bangor. Please don't fill up the street and block access for locals. If there are a few cars about then park 50m further up the hill. Locate the track heading down into the bush on the left. It is marked with tape and first heads across the shallow gully, then heads down through a little rock band. Veer right at the cliff and down and gully then left. The first route is the little corner of Sorcerer's Apprentice.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The Ampitheatre

1 * Sorcerer's Apprentice

The first route on the crag. Funky start up corner to ledge then hard arete. Optional finshing pitch above is a nice 12 onto the summit.

FA: Stu Dobster, 2011

19 Sport 10m, 2
2 Andromedary

Start in centre of slab 5m R of Sorcerer's Apprentice. Clip 1st bolt (use tree) then left and up easily to loweroff on boulder above (or continue up P2 of S.A.)

FA: mikl law, 2013

16 Sport 15m, 4
3 ** Caesarean Section

3 RB's and Lower Off added 2011.

FA: Richard Sonnerdale

24 Sport 10m, 3
4 ** Prevenge

Start in V corner just Right of CS. Bridge up and jump/leap/fly onto hold below first bolt, tall lads can do it direct. Hard moves on big holds to ledge then layback arete up and right to anchor.

FA: mikl, 2013

24 Sport 13m, 5
5 * Dobster's Diabolical Dihedral

An interresting Vee-crack followed by a layback. Take a few fist sized cams for the top. There's a single Ubolt to lower off, or a top belay on the pinnacle.

FA: Stu Dobster, 2011

18 Trad 15m
6 ** Cupholder arete project

Blunt arete with strange carved tank strand and date 1/1/1941 at the base. 2 rings, open project

Set by @mikl, 2011

Sport Project
7 ** Layback Crack

Up corner (has been laybacked, but good jambs) then right on outside of cave and up tricky arete.

FA: mikl law, 2011

20 Sport 12m
8 ** Bellygood

flared layback seam 10m right of The Layback Corner with humiliating boulder start. Maybe 21V4

FA: mikl law, 2014

25 Sport 15m, 5
9 ** Frijidij

Second corner 12m right of Layback Corner. Up corner and up slapping fridge arete.

FFA: Mikl Law, 2013

23 Sport 10m, 4

Main Wall

10 The Quartermass Xperiment

Start 2m L of Head Injuries. Up on jugs and left on smaller holds then back right on no holds

FA: Gareth Downey, 2014

20 Sport 12m, 3
11 Head Injuries

Start: Below corner crack.

'Layback' up the corner passing new bolts. 'Access' pitch for the other climbs.

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989

13 Sport 6m
12 ** Young Bumblies

Climb HI or TQX and head left to flake and steep wall (Rebolted 2011). Best climbed as 2 pitches. Can lower from top to deck (and the second can too)

FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989

21 Sport 10m
13 ** Surface Paradise

Start up Head Injuries and up wall above, powerful then delicate.

FA: Mike Law, 2011

22 Sport 20m
14 * Surface Paradise Direct

Up seam right of 'Head Injuries' and up arete to join 'Surface Paradise'. A few weird moves to a sloping ledge above the 3rd Ubolt. The fin on the left side of the ledge is on. Stay on the right side of the arete above to join SP at the break..

FA: Mike Law, 2011

23 Sport 20m
15 ** The Dynamic Duo

About 3m R of Head Injuries, head up the flake and steep wall on left of crack, bridge into crack for a move at 6th bolt.

FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989

21 Sport 18m
16 * Holy Fisticuffs Batman

Mostly easy bridging up a hand and fist crack (or add thin roof crack start). Take (age/10) each of yellow and blue camalots, 2 hex 10s are handy too. Crack corner between TDD and JC, either step off block or crank thin crack start. Easilyto roof and a move, then up to final juggy chimney.

FA: @mikl, 2015

19 Trad 18m
17 * Jaded Cravings

RB's to lower off up right arete of wide crack (and into it for a move). Rebolted 2006

FA: Dave Barnes, 1990

24 Sport 16m
18 Success is your Enemy - Bundy Project

LH variant of FiyF

FA: Jason Lammers, 2000

Sport 22m
19 ** Failure is your Friend

Up JC to 2nd bolt, vere right, tricky moves to gain break. Launch out to the headwall above and take the right line of RBs to top.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

22 Sport 20m
20 thin wall special project

Open project. start about 3m left of Anticoagulant et al. Up and leftwards, finish up failure is your friend

Set by @mikl, 2011

Sport Project
21 ** Anticoagulant Direct Finish

FA: mikl, 1990

25 Sport 8m
22 * Anticoagulant

Desperate! Retro bolted 2011

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989

24 Sport 15m
23 ** Bordella de Merde

A DF to expectorant or start up anticoagulant, the pinch out right is on (rebolted 2008)

FA: Richard Sonnerdale, 2011

27 Sport 8m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
24 ** Expectorant

Start up corner as for 'Anticoagulant' and 'Hercules' then up through caves to tenuous finish on line of bolts a meter left of 'Hercules'.

FA: Mike Law, 2011

25 Sport 15m, 4
25 ** Hercules

Start: Just left of 'The Cathedral' Cave. Clip 1st bolt and then move up and to the left. Continue straight up past some fantasic climbing to lower off. Rebolted 2006, 4 RB and Double RB Lower Off.

FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989

22 Sport 15m
26 ** Hercules Direct Finish

Was always hard for 23 for a move, then easy slabbing to the top. Pre-clipping the anchor with a sling loses 2 grades, and all your self-respect. From the double RB's on 'Hercules', blast up, 2 RB's to double RB lower off (rebolted 2008)

FA: Mike Law, 1990

23 Sport 22m
27 *** Imogen

Start just left of Cathedral Cave. Up blunt arete. Way cool rock climbing.

The start is the original Hercules and is solid 22.

Wide crack to the right is out for the true tick as it avoids the crux.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2008

22 Sport 15m
28 *** Imogenation

Thin cranking, DF to Imogen

FA: mikl, 2013

25 Sport 22m, 11
29 ** Fat Crack

Streno thrash, great fun. Essential before a trip to Frog Buttress or Yosemite.The crux section had previously been done as part of The Shute. Medium wires, finger to hand cams and a fist cam above the thread and one for the top chimney.

FA: mikl law, 2013

21 Trad 22m
30 Axe Grinder

A route on its own and the final meters of 'The Shute'. Probally a bit of a pain to get to. Rap in from trees on top of cliff and climb out. " I would not trust the old rusty carrots for the hanging belay, but there are some new RBs you could setup a hanging belay with some slings of different sizes. " 3 RB to Double RB lower off. Nice and airy up there.

FA: Dave Barnes, 1989

15 Sport 8m
31 ** BBB - Direct Finish - CLOSED PROJECT

The obvious extension to BBB that now has an extra bolt and strangely enough it now seems do-able. CLOSED PROJECT

FA: 2000

Set by Jason Lammers, 2013

Sport Project 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
32 Bundy's been bolting

Start just left of the Cathedral cave. Only 20, if you dont do the last move. Direct extension is closed project.

FA: Lord Bundy, 2007

20 Sport 15m, 6
33 * The Shute

Up BBB, then stem up the crack and right into AG. A committing adventure

FA: Cameron Taylor, 2000

23 Sport 25m
34 *** Bora

Pumpy pumpy pumpy. Up right side of cave and traverse lip then up groove and wall to top.

FA: Mike Law, 2011

24 Sport 25m
35 ** Wacky Tabacci

If you like this sort of thing, this is the sort of thing you'll like. A classic with exposed climbing on good holds with 'sporting' pro, but there are a few chimney moves so long pants recommended. The obvious chimney to the right of The Cathedral cave. Up then use jugs on right arete. Above chokstone/roof thing, step around left arete and up to lower off. Technically easy but pretty out there, better to be overgraded than a sandbag I suppose....

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989

19 Sport 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
36 ** Retro Crack

The bolted crack line 5m R of Wacky Tabacki. Mostly laybacking and climbing the left arete but a jamb or two may be needed. Could be lead on large natural gear if you don't like Ubolts

FA: Mike Law, 2011

20 Sport 25m
37 * Get Out of Town

Start on face 1m right of V. Hard off the ground to RB (20), and trad up to pea pod. Up a bit then take the left-hand flake past 2 rings to a lower-off.

FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989

20 Mixed 25m, 3
38 Vitez

Start in the corner crack 1 m Right of Get out of Town. Follow this up and over a bulge to the pea pod. Move right and clip the chain on IG then right again to join line on new RBs to top off cliff and double RB lower off.

FA: P. Farkas, 1989

18 Trad 25m
39 Stainless Mystery

Start up GOOT or 'Vitez' (trad) and traverse left in break at 10m then finish up Retro Crack (rings).

FA: Hill's Alien visitation crew from TJF, 2000

18 Trad 30m
40 * Vitez Direct finish

Up Vitez and continue straight up the wide crack above past 3 stainless carrots

19 Trad 25m
41 Medieval Remedies

Another wall finish to the 2 cracks, one very funky move... Start up Vitez or GOOT to pod, right a move to Inchworm Groove anchor then climb the wall a metre R of wide crack (Vitez DF) past 3 RBs to single U lower off.

FA: Ben Williams, 2015

21 Mixed 25m, 4
42 * Inchworm Groove

This one is for the hard nuts,it was once the hardest trad line in shire, and possibly NSW. Start: Below the thin seam, tenuous moves up the groove to lower off chain at half height or easily to top up anything nearby. Take small gear.

FA: Mike Law, 1990

27 Trad 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
43 ** Ozone Action

Sydney Classic at the grade! Rebolted in 2006, but still not a sport route. Start: Below the obvious water groove / flake feature. Follow the flake line / water groove past a couple of RBs, sling the top of the feature and take a well earned rest. Blast up to top past a run out section (gear possible no3 and 1.5 friends) then clip another RB on the way to shared lower off with CF (or top out and rap off the big tree).

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989

17 R Mixed 20m, 3
44 * Creature Feature

As for OA until for the 1st section. Then clip RB on left and move to the left up the thin slab past 3 new RB to lower offs. Rebolted 2006

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989

23 Sport 20m
45 *** Gutterfingers

Excellent climbing finishing in strange laybacking up a runnel. Once again, almost a sport climb if you carry a sling for the big jug above the second bolt on OA. As for OA for 10m (past 2 RBs and a sling runner). Then move left (bolt) and straight up the thin slab above, move left to lower off.

FA: Vanessa Peterson, 2011

21 Sport 20m
46 Jack and the Beanstalk

climb wobbly tree and then finish up one of the routes above Tarmac Traverse.

14 Unknown 8m
47 Guerrilla Warfare 14 Unknown 8m
48 Ghostrider

The short hard little problem under NN. Hard start to pocket then crimp your way to the chain under NN.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2006

22 Sport 8m

Tarmac Traverse

49 Aero Arete

Start: Just right of arete, use pro as for OA.

FA: Steve Turcsanyi, 1989

13 Trad 8m
50 Suicidal Tendencies

One more accross, 3 BRs.

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989

16 Sport 8m
51 Cathedral Quack

The next one along to the left. Another fun climb !

FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989

16 Sport 8m
52 Neuron Nerd

Start just right of the chains, and up past three RBs.

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989

16 Sport 8m, 3
53 Cosmic Cruncher

FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989

16 Sport 8m
54 Tarmac Traverse

The access pitch for the next 5 climbs. Start from bunch of small trees. The obvious low angle slab leading left across the middle of the wall to a rap chain.

FA: Captain Cook

6 Sport 10m
55 Shoot That Dog

The tricky looking Chimney

FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989

14 Trad 10m
56 * Mushroom Mantle

Start below flake. Up the flake with a bizarre mantle near the top. 4 Ubolts and lower-off. (Rebolted 2011)

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989

20 Sport 12m
57 * Cranking Like a Demon

Start left of descent chimney. Up slab and bulge (4 Ubolts) to lower off. (Rebolted 2011)

FA: Mike Law

24 Sport 12m
58 * Isis

Start: 25m right of the main wall and Tarmac traverse routes, the first line on the smooth black wall.

Up seam to lower off. Powerful moves.

FA: Mike Law, 1990

24 Sport 12m
59 *** Glacis

Start: 3m right of Isis.

Sustained and desparate climbing up the twin cracks.

FA: Mike Law, 1987

29 Sport 18m
60 * Moss Ghyll Grooves

20m right of G, starting below cracks at left edge of steep wall.

Up the cracks heading slightly left at the top to anchor. Looks easy...

FA: Mike Law, 1990

24 Sport 10m
61 * Take me to the Tropics

start as for Moss Ghyll.

A bit contrived. Up MGG then move right and back left to anchors. Looks desperate!

FA: Cam Taylor, 2008

25 Sport 11m
62 *** In the Groove

Right of MGG. Super funky pocket pulling. Up the slab laybacking furiously, especially the final wide crack.

FA: Mike Law, 1990

25 Sport 15m
63 ** Legless

There are two random old carrots high on this wall between ITG & Legless. Good luck!

Legless - 10m right of ITG.

Stick clip high Ubolt, either batman up rope or pull nasty boulder problem to start, right to corner then up and out right for a move to bizarre Greek dancing boy move at top.

FA: Mike Law, 1991

23 Unknown 20m
64 * Spite

Just past the little creek that flows down the face is the Trauma Wall.

Spite - Just right of the creek. A desperate granite slab test piece ( I know that the topo says it's 23). Clean before climbing, stickclip first Ubolt.

Stick clip high Ubolt and go

FA: Mike Law, 1990

25 Unknown 15m
65 * Mr Squiggle

8m right of the creek and 5m right of Spite.

Up the fun and increasingly delicate groove and crack. Left a wee bit at the top before moving right to anchors.

FFA: Mike Law, 1990

20 Sport 15m, 4
66 ** Ms Pat

4m right of MS.

Up the delicate slab to anchors on block. In the 80s it had 3 less grades and 2 less bolts!

FA: Mike Law, 1989

21 Sport 15m, 4
67 ** Monopoly

5 metres right of Ms Pat. Climb up onto the hollow sounding flake (RB). Climb the smooth slab (RB) using the small crystals that poke out of the sandstone. Some may require reading glasses to spot the crystals!

FA: Michael Combley & Anrew Rigden, 2013

18 Sport 10m, 3
68 Trivial Pursuit

Start 2 metres right of Monopoly: Climb into the scoop and comfortably clip the RB. Friction up the slab to reach sloping holds, continue smearing upwards and mantle shelf onto the holds. Stand up and clip the next RB. Move left to lower off Monopoly Both Monopoly & Trivial Pursuit are both excellent practise pieces for the harder slab climbs to the left. 10 metres to the right of these climbs is a pathway that descends to Angels Buttress and also another pathway upwards that joins the Cathedral descent path. To reach the Cathedral descent path climb upwards 10 metres right of Trivial Pursuit and follow the yellow and white insulation tape bands to reach the main access path

FA: Michael Combley & Andrew Rigden, 2013

17 Sport 10m, 3
69 ** Boot Flake

Fun layback. Named after the hole at the base where I lost a brand new Miura. Start 20m R of Trivial Pursuit and 1m left of 'Oh the Humidity" at wide crack.

FA: mikl, 2013

18 Sport 6m, 2
70 * Oh the Humidity

Nice thin crack. Start about 12m uphill from Wire Brush and Dettol. Up crack to 2 ring lower-off.

FA: Stu Dobster, 2012

16 Trad 6m
71 ** Wire Brush and Dettol

About 40m right of MP is a giant flake leaning against the cliff, forming an overhung wide layback corner. Undercling the wide crack then walk left 4m and up the wall to anchor. Careful belaying is needed to keep you off the ledeg on the bouldery crux. Use a screwgate on the bolt. It was originally graded 18 and had two 70's toproping bolts in it.

FA: Mike Law, 2011

18 Sport 18m
72 Arete project

Short arete 2m right of WB+D

? Unknown 12m
73 * Tourniquet

Learn to offwidth and remove ugly excess skin! 8m further right around the arete is an offwidth.

Stick clip BR at 4m and up past another bolt to hand crack and gear to lower-off.

FA: Stu Dobbie, 2011

20 Trad 18m
74 ** Buffalo Bum

The hand and fist crack 1m right of Tourniquet. Step in from right. Good stuff, eats cams. Lower-off on left as for Tourniquet

FA: Mike Law, 2011

18 Trad 18m
75 ** Nutter in a Gutter

Funky groove and neat face climbing. Up crack 8 m R of Buffalo Bum to ledge, step R 1.5m and up wall to jugs then left to crack

FA: Gareth Downey, 2013

21 Trad 15m
76 *** Wench in a Trench

Wide crack 8m right of Buffalo Bum

Past 2 RBs, then nice through bulge at top to loweroffs. Nuts and cams for top section; you can also get some gear in the break before the 2nd bolt.

FA: Stu Dobbie, Enmoore Lin, 2011

20 Mixed 18m, 2
77 *** Boffin in a Coffin

Epic offwidth through roof 8m right of Wench. Offffffwidth into sport climbing crux on wall.

FA: Mike Law, 2011

24 Sport 12m, 4
78 * Tweedlebum

Start 10m R of Boffin in a Coffin. Up to roff and up. Wide

FA: mikl, 2011

22 Trad 10m
79 * Gumboot Ridge

Easiest sport route in town? A good beginner's route. Walk down and R 10m from Wire Brush and Dettol, then down the Right side of a boulder. Walk climb the ridge.

FA: mikl, 2013

6 Sport 12m, 3
80 ** Plimsole Line

Another easy beginner's slab climb up the slab right of Gumboot Ridge: Start at the lowest point of the slab and follow the line of RB's trending left to the single RB belay at the top.

FA: Michael Combley & Andrew Rigden (Solo), 2013

12 Sport 15m, 3

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
6 * Gumboot Ridge Sport 12m, 3 1.2. Main Crag
Tarmac Traverse Sport 10m 1.2. Main Crag
12 ** Plimsole Line Sport 15m, 3 1.2. Main Crag
13 Aero Arete Trad 8m 1.2. Main Crag
Head Injuries Sport 6m 1.2. Main Crag
14 Guerrilla Warfare Unknown 8m 1.2. Main Crag
Jack and the Beanstalk Unknown 8m 1.2. Main Crag
Shoot That Dog Trad 10m 1.2. Main Crag
15 Axe Grinder Sport 8m 1.2. Main Crag
V0 Gutscraper Ridge Boulder 5m 1.1. The Wedges
Jugs Boulder 4m 1.1. The Wedges
16 Andromedary Sport 15m, 4 1.2. Main Crag
Cathedral Quack Sport 8m 1.2. Main Crag
Cosmic Cruncher Sport 8m 1.2. Main Crag
Neuron Nerd Sport 8m, 3 1.2. Main Crag
* Oh the Humidity Trad 6m 1.2. Main Crag
Suicidal Tendencies Sport 8m 1.2. Main Crag
17 Trivial Pursuit Sport 10m, 3 1.2. Main Crag
17 R ** Ozone Action Mixed 20m, 3 1.2. Main Crag
18 ** Boot Flake Sport 6m, 2 1.2. Main Crag
** Buffalo Bum Trad 18m 1.2. Main Crag
* Dobster's Diabolical Dihedral Trad 15m 1.2. Main Crag
** Monopoly Sport 10m, 3 1.2. Main Crag
Stainless Mystery Trad 30m 1.2. Main Crag
Vitez Trad 25m 1.2. Main Crag
** Wire Brush and Dettol Sport 18m 1.2. Main Crag
19 * Holy Fisticuffs Batman Trad 18m 1.2. Main Crag
* Sorcerer's Apprentice Sport 10m, 2 1.2. Main Crag
* Vitez Direct finish Trad 25m 1.2. Main Crag
** Wacky Tabacci Sport 25m 1.2. Main Crag
V1 * Slice Boulder 8m 1.1. The Wedges
Tombstone Arete Boulder 5m 1.1. The Wedges
20 Bundy's been bolting Sport 15m, 6 1.2. Main Crag
* Get Out of Town Mixed 25m, 3 1.2. Main Crag
** Layback Crack Sport 12m 1.2. Main Crag
* Mr Squiggle Sport 15m, 4 1.2. Main Crag
* Mushroom Mantle Sport 12m 1.2. Main Crag
** Retro Crack Sport 25m 1.2. Main Crag
The Quartermass Xperiment Sport 12m, 3 1.2. Main Crag
* Tourniquet Trad 18m 1.2. Main Crag
*** Wench in a Trench Mixed 18m, 2 1.2. Main Crag
V2 ** Butt Crack Boulder 8m 1.1. The Wedges
* Jazz Hands Boulder 5m 1.1. The Wedges
Victorian Scrungecake Boulder 5m 1.1. The Wedges
21 ** Fat Crack Trad 22m 1.2. Main Crag
*** Gutterfingers Sport 20m 1.2. Main Crag
Medieval Remedies Mixed 25m, 4 1.2. Main Crag
** Ms Pat Sport 15m, 4 1.2. Main Crag
** Nutter in a Gutter Trad 15m 1.2. Main Crag
** The Dynamic Duo Sport 18m 1.2. Main Crag
** Young Bumblies Sport 10m 1.2. Main Crag
22 ** Failure is your Friend Sport 20m 1.2. Main Crag
Ghostrider Sport 8m 1.2. Main Crag
** Hercules Sport 15m 1.2. Main Crag
*** Imogen Sport 15m 1.2. Main Crag
** Surface Paradise Sport 20m 1.2. Main Crag
* Tweedlebum Trad 10m 1.2. Main Crag
V3 Hummingbird Cake Boulder 5m 1.1. The Wedges
* Right Cheek Boulder 8m 1.1. The Wedges
Self-saucing Yorkshire Puddin Boulder 9m 1.1. The Wedges
* Slice of Pi Boulder 8m 1.1. The Wedges
** Wedding Cake Island Boulder 9m 1.1. The Wedges
23 * Creature Feature Sport 20m 1.2. Main Crag
** Frijidij Sport 10m, 4 1.2. Main Crag
** Hercules Direct Finish Sport 22m 1.2. Main Crag
** Legless Unknown 20m 1.2. Main Crag
* Surface Paradise Direct Sport 20m 1.2. Main Crag
* The Shute Sport 25m 1.2. Main Crag
V4 Blind Fury Boulder 1.1. The Wedges
Builder's Moneybox Boulder 8m 1.1. The Wedges
*** Chocolate Barbarian Boulder 8m 1.1. The Wedges
Muffin top Boulder 5m 1.1. The Wedges
** The Times and Crimes of Professor Cuntley Boulder 1.1. The Wedges
*** Tufa One Boulder 1.1. The Wedges
24 * Anticoagulant Sport 15m 1.2. Main Crag
*** Boffin in a Coffin Sport 12m, 4 1.2. Main Crag
*** Bora Sport 25m 1.2. Main Crag
** Caesarean Section Sport 10m, 3 1.2. Main Crag
* Cranking Like a Demon Sport 12m 1.2. Main Crag
* Isis Sport 12m 1.2. Main Crag
* Jaded Cravings Sport 16m 1.2. Main Crag
* Moss Ghyll Grooves Sport 10m 1.2. Main Crag
** Prevenge Sport 13m, 5 1.2. Main Crag
25 ** Anticoagulant Direct Finish Sport 8m 1.2. Main Crag
** Bellygood Sport 15m, 5 1.2. Main Crag
** Expectorant Sport 15m, 4 1.2. Main Crag
*** Imogenation Sport 22m, 11 1.2. Main Crag
*** In the Groove Sport 15m 1.2. Main Crag
* Spite Unknown 15m 1.2. Main Crag
* Take me to the Tropics Sport 11m 1.2. Main Crag
V5 *** Wheel of Cheese Boulder 14m 1.1. The Wedges
27 ** Bordella de Merde Sport 8m, 3 1.2. Main Crag
* Inchworm Groove Trad 8m 1.2. Main Crag
29 *** Glacis Sport 18m 1.2. Main Crag
? ** BBB - Direct Finish - CLOSED PROJECT Sport Project 25m 1.2. Main Crag
** Cupholder arete project Sport Project 1.2. Main Crag
Success is your Enemy - Bundy Project Sport 22m 1.2. Main Crag
thin wall special project Sport Project 1.2. Main Crag
Arete project Unknown 12m 1.2. Main Crag