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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalitySport, Trad and other styles
Long/Lat: 151.034596, -34.024082
- Description:© (secretary)
Popular sandstone crags that remain in the shade until late afternoon. The main crag is shorter easier routes, whilst 'Lost World' is longer and harder.
- Approach:© (secretary)
Park towards the cul de sac end of Arunta Close. There is a path between no 11 and 12. The descent is almost straight ahead, slightly to the right. Once you are on rock it pretty much heads right angles to the left.
Sport, Trad and other styles
Long/Lat: 151.034604, -34.024087
This crag and these routes have been climbed over for more than thirty years. It remains, I am sure, the central point of Shire climbing and the climbing nursery for the area. Why? Easy access, lots of bolts and a close proximity of routes at mild grades, means the general climbing public are cared for. The trade routes like Andrews Bulge (16), Fixed Steps (19), My Girl (23) and Whorl (17) are extremely popular. A novel way to enjoy the crag, or a future goal to achieve, is to tick all of the routes in a day. I have noticed some of the new routes are old routes from the 1980’s. I think every bit of rock has been well and truly climbed on but try telling that to a kid with a drill seeking immortality. Being popular also means it attracts the rubbish so please take your energy bar rappers and your belay slaves with you.
Take salt because you or one of your buddies will most definitely get attacked by leaches.
To get there park at the end of Arunta Close, and walk down the fire trail between the houses. The decent gully is just to the right as you walk towards the river. It's a hop, skip, and a jump to get down, so be careful! Alternatively If you can't get down the gully safely, walk to your left for about 30m where you will find two ring bolts perfect for rapping in on. But be warned, ascending up with a heavy pack is not easy so only rap in if you need to.
A square cut arête 80m right of 'The Whorl'.
FA: joe, 2000
Fun jug pulling up steep wall on far right end of crag. Four u-bolts. Very well protected but has no lower-off.
Marked TW. Classic featured wall with awesome giant thread. Stay in the middle of the wall and don't get lured to the bolts on the left. Bring a sling for the thread. Beta - http://youtu.be/Y3YrKpNIbEI
Marked DM. Climb starts approximately 1m left of "The Whorl". Very steep start using handlebar hold then stay left up the juggy arête on carrots.
Start: A deep crack approximately 1m left of \"Dorothy May\"
Shire Riot / Line of rings off block
The line of very shiny but dubious rings on right side of this buttress with an undercut start. Lots of slopers. Single bolt lower-off.
The Shire Republic / A
The line of carrots up the middle of this wall. Tricky rounded top out. First bolt is quite high.
|19 to 20||312m,|
Worthless. No Protection. There are TR bolts if you must climb this junk.
Start: The ramp just near where the descent gully comes out.
Marked NFM. Up to RB then leftwards past two carrots to top. Hard first move then easy top.
Start: 5m left of R, just under arete.
Marked KK. Middle line on this wall with a couple of funky pockets. Three carrots.
Start: Start of climb marked as "KK"
FA: H. Wallace, 1992
|11||Pyromaniac Direct Start||21|
Blast directly up reachy wall. No McDougal start - go direct or try something else. Three ringbolts.
Start: Starts 3m left of KK.
Start: Marked. On right hand edge of bulging buttress left of P. A hard start, then continue up the arete, staying right of AB. No pro until after the crux. A new single BB so use one of AB's BBs.
FA: H. Wallace, 1992
Climb is marked AB and there is a painted hand on the rock. Rebolted 2009. 3 ring bolts with double bb's at the top, first bolt is quite high. A Sydney classic
FA: Peter Faill
Start: Starts at the crack 0.5m left of "Adrews Bulge"
Start: 0.5m left of GT
Up crack, then right side of blunt arete.
Start: As 4 SP
Killer start, then up wall passing 1RB. Rebolted 2009
Start: 1m left of PA
FA: Steve Turcsanyi, 1987
Starts 1m left of Mars Apple.
Slightly tricky start then up blocky ledges and face. New bolts 2009. 2 carrots on top.
FA: Steve Turcsanyi, 1987
Mike's Photogenic Crack
Corner crack left of ZT.
Bouldery start then easy.
FA: Mike Patterson
Sports Injury Clinic
1m L of MPC. 3 manky BRs.
Tits and Bits
1m left of SIC. 2 FHs.
1m left of TaB.
The grovelly dirty chimney.
The next routes are on the large free standing boulder with low angle roof directly opposite Go Go Gadget.
Three Sides Traverse
(Anti-clockwise) traverse of three sides of the detached block downhill from the crag. Starts on left hand end of overhung most downhill face with gymnastic moves following hand traverse line. Round corner and continue along (uphill) along thin wall. Round the next corner, traverse short low overhung face to finish in cave.
FA: N Clow, 2003
|25||Unknown on block left||10||8m|
The left hand side of the boulder as you face it with your back to the cliff has two bolted routes. Whippersnapper is the RH route. Hard start, then up juggy wall and left to DBB.
Nana in the dark
4m left of Whippersnapper
Climb diagonally right & up to the same lower-offs as Whippersnapper.
On the left side of the front of the boulder facing the main crag.
Mantle, then up. No pro.
Start as for Tilba Tilba. Traverse right to 2nd corner above the finish of Monkey Bars, then up. No pro.
Death of a Black Boy
Start from the cave under the big block as for Monkey Bars.
Out right through the roof and up orange wall past fixed hangers to U-bolt anchors.
FA: H. Wallace, 1992
Start on the small pocket with left hand(not some pile of rocks) then to a ok knob before a monkey along the roof of the cave past RBs to lower-offs. Variant top out via the mantle (21)
FA: Luke.W 2002
Back to the Main Wall
The next route starts just left of Christmas Nuts, and is the continuation of the main wall.
Tricky stuff up and around the arete. Probably best to finish on anchors as for GGG. 3 new RBs
Start: On rounded arete
FA: Steve Turcsanyi
Go, Go, Gadget Arms
Marked GGG. Old Top rope problem. Just left of FS. No Pro !
Go Go Gadget - 2010 Remix
Right of MG, at thin vertical seam, battle the bulges, directly up crimpy wall.
FA: Jason Lammers, 2010
Bouldery with Bolts. Up wall to giant U lower off.
FA: Trevor Cooper-Williams, 1992
B / C
3 rusty carrots
Motivated Mob Confrontations / D
Just right of ALH, and left of manky BR's of B
FA: Keysar Trad, 1992
A Loving Hole
Marked, Up wall on new RBs, share RB of D. Just right of corner crack
FA: H. Wallace, 1992
RD on Sydney Rockies reads : Start as for ALH, traverse left & up. Given that ALH is 1m right of In Depth corner crack, its difficult to understand where this "route" is.
Arachnology for Kids Traverse
FA: NC, 2003
Corner crack just left of ALH.
On the right-facing wall just left of In Depth corner.
Directly up middle of this little wall, shares anchors with Python.
Not exactly a sport route when there is one carrot 4m up and one more another 6m up. Really runout easy to deck.
On the left arete 1m left of PD.
Up arete past 2 fixed hangers to 2x carrot belay.
Unknown climb between grandmas wheel chair and python
Grandma's Wheelchair Direct
As Grandma's Wheelchair but climb directly through the cave.
Past Python, on LHS of cave.
Up the side of cave, right across the top, then straight up - now fully rebolted.
FA: Dave Humphries
Start as for Grandma's Wheelchair, but straight up.
Just left of cave for GW. Over bulge and up big crack
End of the Decade
Start: Below traverse line, 3m left of S. Groovy move to start, then out traverse line and up arete.
End of the Century
Directly up the wall past RBs to lower off. The best rock at Bangor !
FA: Jason Lammers, 2009
End of the Line
Start as for Grotto Crack, past first bolt to horizontal break. Hand traverse R to ring bolt and up flake as for End of the Century. Cams and bolts.
FA: T Meredith, D Burgess, 2011
Corner crack just left of End of The Decade. 2BR out right or can be led as trad. Good varied climbing.
|53||Buzz Boys Beat||19||9m|
|61||unknown on block left||10||8m|
Sport, Unknown and Trad
Long/Lat: 151.037974, -34.024634
- Description:© (bundybear)
One of the taller and better sport cliffs in The Shire, and shady for most of the day as it faces south. Routes are generally quite sustained, with superb rock quality and interesting sloping pocket features. The downside is the vegetation and the small amount of routes. Seepage can be a problem after heavy rain. Recent rebolting and rebrushing has brought this cliff back to it's former 80s glory. Top-roping is very easy to setup, most routes you can reach over the edge to ring bolt anchors. This cliff requires traffic to stay clean - so get out there! Better guide and topos o n:- http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/confluence/display/nswrock/Lost+World
- Approach:© (bundybear)
To get there, find Koorabar Road in Bangor and park at the southern end of the street. Walk to right edge (west) of little cleared park (thru a gate) to fire track behind houses. Walk west along this track for about 60m to a locked gate (on ur right) to a diagonal access lane, wak down the hillside (left) to the edge of the cliff. Locate a small corner about 20m wesdt (R facing downhill) with a cairn atop, decend down ramps (Screaming Pretty is halfway down) and turn right at the base and walk 30m to main cliff. To get to the top turn R (west ) and walk along trail near clifftop for 40m to cleared clifftop and carrot bolts (involves a small scramble down to this platform) Rap in from here.
Unknown, supposed to be 55m R (west) of screaming pretty
Halfway down descent on East facing wall. Up to weird finish (added during 2014 rebolt)
Grunting and Groaning
Leftwards traverse finish to Screaming Pretty past dodgy bolt
ABout 6m left of Screaming Pretty at the base of the descent. Thin corner and roof with fiddly but bomber gear. Seeps a bit but ok
FA: mikl, 2014
Walk left (fzacing cliff) for 30m. Dirty and thin. Climbs the face on the right side of the prominent arete. Scramble up to vegetated ledge under big roof, out right under roof and then back left onto thin face. Direct up face avoiding the arête on the left.
Dirt Trawler Left Variant
About the best warm up here - but still a bit dirty. An easier variant to 'Dirt Trawler'. Up that route to 3rd bolt then traverse left across sloping horizontal break to arête and up this finish.
Nightcrawler (Neil's Project)
The big ceiling direct and then up the gritty main arete. Probably grade 28+?
Direct start to "Keep off the grass", start as for Fun and Danger for 2m then step R up and through roof and up twin cracks to join KotG
Set by mikl law, 2014
Keep Off the Grass
Start as for 'Fun and Destruction' then after fifth bolt (above roof), go up to break and R up seam crack above. Rebolted 8/2009
FA: Neil Mahant, 1988
Fun and Destruction / Fun and Danger
Great sustained and varied climbing from start to finish. Starts on left edge of cave. Up jugs to small ledge, traverse left across horizontal break and up to under bulge. Over this and up crimpy face with a little left trend under 2nd bulge to water-washed pockets. Run it out up easier ground to the anchor. Rebolted 8/2009
Start: About a meter right of the chipped "PT" initial
FA: Neil Mahant, 1988
A big girdle traverse to get onto the arete. Start as for 'Eudaimonia' to 2nd bolt then big rightwards traversing link-up line eventually joining into the end arete of Dirttrawler varient.
A great climb up a series of bulges and seams on the left end of the wall. This route was originally chipped in two places, the lower one has been filled so grade has been bumped up. Rebolted 8/2009.
Start: A meter left of the chipped "PT"
FA: Neil Mahant, 1980
Bloody hard! Start a few metres left of E. Up through roof and step right, hard move past ring and old piton, then up to lower-off (shared with Soup or Force)
Soup or Force
Delicate and reachy start coming in the from the left, then through the roof on secret holds and finish up seam on the left line of bolts.
Start: Start as for 'Superforce'.
FA: M Law, 2009
Scoop Project (Neil's)
Long traverse in from the right across horizontals, then through scoppy roof and up corner.