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Table of contents

1. Bangor West 76 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.034596, -34.024082

Description:© (secretary)

Popular sandstone crags that remain in the shade until late afternoon. The main crag is shorter easier routes, whilst 'Lost World' is longer and harder.

Approach:© (secretary)

Park towards the cul de sac end of Arunta Close. There is a path between no 11 and 12. The descent is almost straight ahead, slightly to the right. Once you are on rock it pretty much heads right angles to the left.

1.1. Main Area 61 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.034604, -34.024087

Description:

This crag and these routes have been climbed over for more than thirty years. It remains, I am sure, the central point of Shire climbing and the climbing nursery for the area. Why? Easy access, lots of bolts and a close proximity of routes at mild grades, means the general climbing public are cared for. The trade routes like Andrews Bulge (16), Fixed Steps (19), My Girl (23) and Whorl (17) are extremely popular. A novel way to enjoy the crag, or a future goal to achieve, is to tick all of the routes in a day. I have noticed some of the new routes are old routes from the 1980’s. I think every bit of rock has been well and truly climbed on but try telling that to a kid with a drill seeking immortality. Being popular also means it attracts the rubbish so please take your energy bar rappers and your belay slaves with you.

Take salt because you or one of your buddies will most definitely get attacked by leaches.

Approach:

To get there park at the end of Arunta Close, and walk down the fire trail between the houses. The decent gully is just to the right as you walk towards the river. It's a hop, skip, and a jump to get down, so be careful! Alternatively If you can't get down the gully safely, walk to your left for about 30m where you will find two ring bolts perfect for rapping in on. But be warned, ascending up with a heavy pack is not easy so only rap in if you need to.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Arête Problem

A square cut arête 80m right of 'The Whorl'.

FA: joe, 2000

V9Boulder
2 Egg Rings

Fun jug pulling up steep wall on far right end of crag. Four u-bolts. Very well protected but has no lower-off.

18Sport 15m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 * The Whorl

Marked TW. Classic featured wall with awesome giant thread. Stay in the middle of the wall and don't get lured to the bolts on the left. Bring a sling for the thread. Beta - http://youtu.be/Y3YrKpNIbEI

17Sport 16m, 2
4 Dorothy May

Marked DM. Climb starts approximately 1m left of "The Whorl". Very steep start using handlebar hold then stay left up the juggy arête on carrots.

16Sport 15m, 3
5 Lean Too

Start: A deep crack approximately 1m left of \"Dorothy May\"

15Trad 15m
6 Shire Riot / Line of rings off block

The line of very shiny but dubious rings on right side of this buttress with an undercut start. Lots of slopers. Single bolt lower-off.

20Sport 10m, 4
7 The Shire Republic / A

The line of carrots up the middle of this wall. Tricky rounded top out. First bolt is quite high.

19 to 20Sport 12m, 3
8 Rainman

Worthless. No Protection. There are TR bolts if you must climb this junk.

Start: The ramp just near where the descent gully comes out.

12Top rope 6m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 NFM

Marked NFM. Up to RB then leftwards past two carrots to top. Hard first move then easy top.

Start: 5m left of R, just under arete.

21Sport 8m, 3
10 * Killer's Kidneys

Marked KK. Middle line on this wall with a couple of funky pockets. Three carrots.

Start: Start of climb marked as "KK"

FA: H. Wallace, 1992

21Sport 8m, 3
11 * Pyromaniac Direct Start 21Sport
12 Pyromaniac

Blast directly up reachy wall. No McDougal start - go direct or try something else. Three ringbolts.

Start: Starts 3m left of KK.

20Sport 9m, 3
13 Dynamic Winter

Start: Marked. On right hand edge of bulging buttress left of P. A hard start, then continue up the arete, staying right of AB. No pro until after the crux. A new single BB so use one of AB's BBs.

FA: H. Wallace, 1992

20 RTrad 10m
14 * Andrew's Bulge

Climb is marked AB and there is a painted hand on the rock. Rebolted 2009. 3 ring bolts with double bb's at the top, first bolt is quite high. A Sydney classic

FA: Peter Faill

16Sport 8m, 3
15 Get Tracked

Start: Starts at the crack 0.5m left of "Adrews Bulge"

14Trad 11m
16 Side Tracked

Junk

Start: 0.5m left of GT

10Trad 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
17 Pitted Arete

Up crack, then right side of blunt arete.

Start: As 4 SP

17Trad 10m
18 Mars Apple

Killer start, then up wall passing 1RB. Rebolted 2009

Start: 1m left of PA

FA: Steve Turcsanyi, 1987

21Sport 8m
19 Zulu Trainer

Starts 1m left of Mars Apple.

Slightly tricky start then up blocky ledges and face. New bolts 2009. 2 carrots on top.

FA: Steve Turcsanyi, 1987

13Sport 10m
20 Mike's Photogenic Crack

Corner crack left of ZT.

Bouldery start then easy.

FA: Mike Patterson

12Trad 10m
21 Sports Injury Clinic

1m L of MPC. 3 manky BRs.

20Sport 10m, 3
22 * Tits and Bits

1m left of SIC. 2 FHs.

21Sport 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
23 Christmas Nuts

1m left of TaB.

The grovelly dirty chimney.

11Trad 10m
24 * Fixed Steps

Tricky stuff up and around the arete. Probably best to finish on anchors as for GGG. 3 new RBs

Start: On rounded arete

FA: Steve Turcsanyi

19Sport 10m, 3
25 ** Three Sides Traverse

(Anti-clockwise) traverse of three sides of the detached block downhill from the crag. Starts on left hand end of overhung most downhill face with gymnastic moves following hand traverse line. Round corner and continue along (uphill) along thin wall. Round the next corner, traverse short low overhung face to finish in cave.

FA: N Clow, 2003

V3Boulder 20m
26 Unknown on block left 10Unknown 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
27 Whippersnapper

The following climbs are on the huge boulder separated from the main wall.

The left hand side of the boulder as you face it with your back to the cliff has two bolted routes. Whippersnapper is the RH route. Hard start, then up juggy wall and left to DBB.

FA: Luke.W

13Sport 8m, 3
28 Nana in the dark

4m left of Whippersnapper

Climb diagonally right & up to the same lower-offs as Whippersnapper.

FA: Luke.W

13Sport 8m, 3
29 Tilba Tilba

On the left side of the front of the boulder facing the main crag.

Mantle, then up. No pro.

10Trad 8m
30 * Voodoo Traverse

Start as for Tilba Tilba. Traverse right to 2nd corner above the finish of Monkey Bars, then up. No pro.

18Trad 15m
31 Death of a Black Boy

Start from the cave under the big block as for Monkey Bars.

Out right through the roof and up orange wall past fixed hangers to U-bolt anchors.

FA: H. Wallace, 1992

22Sport 8m, 3
32 ** Lucky's Roof

Start on the small pocket with left hand(not some pile of rocks) then to a ok knob before a monkey along the roof of the cave past RBs to lower-offs. Variant top out via the mantle (21)

FA: Luke.W 2002

20Sport 5m, 5
33 Go, Go, Gadget Arms

Marked GGG. Old Top rope problem. Just left of FS. No Pro !

22 RTop rope 9m
34 * Go Go Gadget - 2010 Remix

Right of MG, at thin vertical seam, battle the bulges, directly up crimpy wall.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

24Sport 10m
35 * My Girl

Bouldery with Bolts. Up wall to giant U lower off.

FA: Trevor Cooper-Williams, 1992

23Sport 10m, 3
36 * B / C

3 rusty carrots

20Sport 12m, 3
37 * Motivated Mob Confrontations / D

Just right of ALH, and left of manky BR's of B

FA: Keysar Trad, 1992

21Sport 10m, 2
38 A Loving Hole

Marked, Up wall on new RBs, share RB of D. Just right of corner crack

FA: H. Wallace, 1992

20Sport 10m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
39 Bangor Tiger

RD on Sydney Rockies reads : Start as for ALH, traverse left & up. Given that ALH is 1m right of In Depth corner crack, its difficult to understand where this "route" is.

19Sport 10m
40 * Arachnology for Kids Traverse

From the corner/crack of In Depth (marked 'ALH') traverse right to the arete of Fixed Steps. V4/V5? Technical, very good.

FA: NC, 2003

V5Boulder 9m
41 In Depth

Corner crack just left of ALH.

11Trad 10m
42 Python Direct

On the right-facing wall just left of In Depth corner.

Directly up middle of this little wall, shares anchors with Python.

Not exactly a sport route when there is one carrot 4m up and one more another 6m up. Really runout easy to deck.

19Sport 10m, 1
43 Python

On the left arete 1m left of PD.

Up arete past 2 fixed hangers to 2x carrot belay.

17Sport 8m, 2
44 Grandma's Python

Unknown climb between grandmas wheel chair and python

16Sport 10m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
45 Grandma's Wheelchair Direct

As Grandma's Wheelchair but climb directly through the cave.

18Sport 10m
46 Grandma's Wheelchair

Past Python, on LHS of cave.

Up the side of cave, right across the top, then straight up - now fully rebolted.

FA: Dave Humphries

16Sport 10m, 4
47 Get Walking

Start as for Grandma's Wheelchair, but straight up.

14Sport 9m, 3
48 Skulduggery

Just left of cave for GW. Over bulge and up big crack

16Trad 9m
49 End of the Decade

Start: Below traverse line, 3m left of S. Groovy move to start, then out traverse line and up arete.

21Sport 11m, 2
50 * End of the Century

Directly up the wall past RBs to lower off. The best rock at Bangor !

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

22Sport 10m, 3
51 End of the Line

Start as for Grotto Crack, past first bolt to horizontal break. Hand traverse R to ring bolt and up flake as for End of the Century. Cams and bolts.

FA: T Meredith, D Burgess, 2011

18Mixed 12m, 4
52 Grotto Crack

Corner crack just left of End of The Decade. 2BR out right or can be led as trad. Good varied climbing.

17Sport 9m, 2
53 Buzz Boys Beat 19Trad 9m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
54 Zip 15Sport 8m
55 Unzip 17Sport 10m
56 Billabong 18Sport 5m
57 Ali 15Trad 5m
58 Slobbery Dog 15Trad 6m
59 Rockclimber's Waltz 12Trad 7m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
60 Head Butte 16Trad 6m
61 unknown on block left 10Unknown 8m

1.2. Lost World 15 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 151.037974, -34.024634

Description:© (bundybear)

One of the taller and better sport cliffs in The Shire, and shady for most of the day as it faces south. Routes are generally quite sustained, with superb rock quality and interesting sloping pocket features. The downside is the vegetation and the small amount of routes. Seepage can be a problem after heavy rain. Recent rebolting and rebrushing has brought this cliff back to it's former 80s glory. Top-roping is very easy to setup, most routes you can reach over the edge to ring bolt anchors. This cliff requires traffic to stay clean - so get out there! Better guide and topos o n:- http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/confluence/display/nswrock/Lost+World

Approach:© (bundybear)

To get there, find Koorabar Road in Bangor and park at the southern end of the street. Walk to right edge (west) of little cleared park (thru a gate) to fire track behind houses. Walk west along this track for about 60m to a locked gate (on ur right) to a diagonal access lane, wak down the hillside (left) to the edge of the cliff. Locate a small corner about 20m wesdt (R facing downhill) with a cairn atop, decend down ramps (Screaming Pretty is halfway down) and turn right at the base and walk 30m to main cliff. To get to the top turn R (west ) and walk along trail near clifftop for 40m to cleared clifftop and carrot bolts (involves a small scramble down to this platform) Rap in from here.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Tull's Ball-tearer

Unknown, supposed to be 55m R (west) of screaming pretty

18Unknown 12m
2 * Screaming Pretty

Halfway down descent on East facing wall. Up to weird finish (added during 2014 rebolt)

20Unknown 17m
3 Grunting and Groaning

Leftwards traverse finish to Screaming Pretty past dodgy bolt

20Unknown 17m
4 ** White corner

ABout 6m left of Screaming Pretty at the base of the descent. Thin corner and roof with fiddly but bomber gear. Seeps a bit but ok

FA: mikl, 27th Jun

24Trad 15m
5 Dirt Trawler

Walk left (fzacing cliff) for 30m. Dirty and thin. Climbs the face on the right side of the prominent arete. Scramble up to vegetated ledge under big roof, out right under roof and then back left onto thin face. Direct up face avoiding the arête on the left.

23Sport 20m, 6
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Dirt Trawler Left Variant

About the best warm up here - but still a bit dirty. An easier variant to 'Dirt Trawler'. Up that route to 3rd bolt then traverse left across sloping horizontal break to arête and up this finish.

21Sport 22m, 7
7 Nightcrawler (Neil's Project)

The big ceiling direct and then up the gritty main arete. Probably grade 28+?

Sport 20m, 8
8 *** Grass Direct

Direct start to "Keep off the grass", start as for Fun and Danger for 2m then step R up and through roof and up twin cracks to join KotG

Set by mikl law, 2014

25Sport 18m
9 * Keep Off the Grass

Start as for 'Fun and Destruction' then after fifth bolt (above roof), go up to break and R up seam crack above. Rebolted 8/2009

FA: Neil Mahant, 1988

23Sport 20m, 7
10 ** Fun and Destruction / Fun and Danger

Great sustained and varied climbing from start to finish. Starts on left edge of cave. Up jugs to small ledge, traverse left across horizontal break and up to under bulge. Over this and up crimpy face with a little left trend under 2nd bulge to water-washed pockets. Run it out up easier ground to the anchor. Rebolted 8/2009

Start: About a meter right of the chipped "PT" initial

FA: Neil Mahant, 1988

23Sport 20m, 7
11 * Cat Burglar

A big girdle traverse to get onto the arete. Start as for 'Eudaimonia' to 2nd bolt then big rightwards traversing link-up line eventually joining into the end arete of Dirttrawler varient.

23Sport 26m, 7
12 * Eudaimonia

A great climb up a series of bulges and seams on the left end of the wall. This route was originally chipped in two places, the lower one has been filled so grade has been bumped up. Rebolted 8/2009.

Start: A meter left of the chipped "PT"

FA: Neil Mahant, 1980

22Sport 20m, 6
13 * Superforce

Bloody hard! Start a few metres left of E. Up through roof and step right, hard move past ring and old piton, then up to lower-off (shared with Soup or Force)

25Sport 20m
14 * Soup or Force

Delicate and reachy start coming in the from the left, then through the roof on secret holds and finish up seam on the left line of bolts.

Start: Start as for 'Superforce'.

FA: M Law, 2009

23Sport 15m, 5
15 Scoop Project (Neil's)

Long traverse in from the right across horizontals, then through scoppy roof and up corner.

Sport 15m, 7

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
10 Side Tracked Trad 10m 1.1. Main Area
Tilba Tilba Trad 8m 1.1. Main Area
Unknown on block left Unknown 8m 1.1. Main Area
unknown on block left Unknown 8m 1.1. Main Area
11 Christmas Nuts Trad 10m 1.1. Main Area
In Depth Trad 10m 1.1. Main Area
12 Mike's Photogenic Crack Trad 10m 1.1. Main Area
Rainman Top rope 6m 1.1. Main Area
Rockclimber's Waltz Trad 7m 1.1. Main Area
13 Nana in the dark Sport 8m, 3 1.1. Main Area
Whippersnapper Sport 8m, 3 1.1. Main Area
Zulu Trainer Sport 10m 1.1. Main Area
14 Get Tracked Trad 11m 1.1. Main Area
Get Walking Sport 9m, 3 1.1. Main Area
15 Ali Trad 5m 1.1. Main Area
Lean Too Trad 15m 1.1. Main Area
Slobbery Dog Trad 6m 1.1. Main Area
Zip Sport 8m 1.1. Main Area
16 * Andrew's Bulge Sport 8m, 3 1.1. Main Area
Dorothy May Sport 15m, 3 1.1. Main Area
Grandma's Python Sport 10m, 5 1.1. Main Area
Grandma's Wheelchair Sport 10m, 4 1.1. Main Area
Head Butte Trad 6m 1.1. Main Area
Skulduggery Trad 9m 1.1. Main Area
17 Grotto Crack Sport 9m, 2 1.1. Main Area
Pitted Arete Trad 10m 1.1. Main Area
Python Sport 8m, 2 1.1. Main Area
* The Whorl Sport 16m, 2 1.1. Main Area
Unzip Sport 10m 1.1. Main Area
18 Billabong Sport 5m 1.1. Main Area
Egg Rings Sport 15m, 4 1.1. Main Area
End of the Line Mixed 12m, 4 1.1. Main Area
Grandma's Wheelchair Direct Sport 10m 1.1. Main Area
* Voodoo Traverse Trad 15m 1.1. Main Area
* Tull's Ball-tearer Unknown 12m 1.2. Lost World
19 Bangor Tiger Sport 10m 1.1. Main Area
Buzz Boys Beat Trad 9m 1.1. Main Area
* Fixed Steps Sport 10m, 3 1.1. Main Area
Python Direct Sport 10m, 1 1.1. Main Area
19 to 20 The Shire Republic Sport 12m, 3 1.1. Main Area
20 A Loving Hole Sport 10m, 3 1.1. Main Area
* B Sport 12m, 3 1.1. Main Area
Dynamic Winter Trad 10m 1.1. Main Area
** Lucky's Roof Sport 5m, 5 1.1. Main Area
Pyromaniac Sport 9m, 3 1.1. Main Area
Shire Riot Sport 10m, 4 1.1. Main Area
Sports Injury Clinic Sport 10m, 3 1.1. Main Area
Grunting and Groaning Unknown 17m 1.2. Lost World
* Screaming Pretty Unknown 17m 1.2. Lost World
21 End of the Decade Sport 11m, 2 1.1. Main Area
* Killer's Kidneys Sport 8m, 3 1.1. Main Area
Mars Apple Sport 8m 1.1. Main Area
* Motivated Mob Confrontations Sport 10m, 2 1.1. Main Area
NFM Sport 8m, 3 1.1. Main Area
* Pyromaniac Direct Start Sport 1.1. Main Area
* Tits and Bits Sport 10m 1.1. Main Area
Dirt Trawler Left Variant Sport 22m, 7 1.2. Lost World
22 Death of a Black Boy Sport 8m, 3 1.1. Main Area
* End of the Century Sport 10m, 3 1.1. Main Area
Go, Go, Gadget Arms Top rope 9m 1.1. Main Area
* Eudaimonia Sport 20m, 6 1.2. Lost World
V3 ** Three Sides Traverse Boulder 20m 1.1. Main Area
23 * My Girl Sport 10m, 3 1.1. Main Area
* Cat Burglar Sport 26m, 7 1.2. Lost World
Dirt Trawler Sport 20m, 6 1.2. Lost World
** Fun and Destruction Sport 20m, 7 1.2. Lost World
* Keep Off the Grass Sport 20m, 7 1.2. Lost World
* Soup or Force Sport 15m, 5 1.2. Lost World
24 * Go Go Gadget - 2010 Remix Sport 10m 1.1. Main Area
** White corner Trad 15m 1.2. Lost World
25 *** Grass Direct Sport 18m 1.2. Lost World
* Superforce Sport 20m 1.2. Lost World
V5 * Arachnology for Kids Traverse Boulder 9m 1.1. Main Area
V9 ** Arête Problem Boulder 1.1. Main Area
? Nightcrawler (Neil's Project) Sport 20m, 8 1.2. Lost World
Scoop Project (Neil's) Sport 15m, 7 1.2. Lost World