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Description

Great sport climbing and one of the more popular spots in The Shire. Has possibly the best 24 and 27 sport route in Sydney. Great spot for the kids, with nice level grassy area and only minutes from the car. Can be muggy and mosquito ridden in summer. There has been much rebolting in recent years so most climbs are super safe. Keep your noise down as houses are right below the crag.

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Approach

Park just before the intersection of 188 Washington Drive and Harrison Avenue in 'Bonnet Bay'. Walk back up Washington Road for 40m past the last house to find a track entering bush on the right. Hike up this for 20 seconds to arrive at the climbing. This track is located directly opposite the popular boat ramp. Climbs are named from LEFT to RIGHT as you face the Cliff.

© (secretary)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Left Wall

1
18 Overkilled Sport 10m, 3

The far left route with giant U-bolts. Easy start then tricky finish.

2
18 * Stopping Short Sport 10m, 2

Slopey grit like wall climbing on giant ugly u-bolts. Rap anchor is positioned 1m lower than it should be. Top out for the full tick.

3
17 Mildly Bent Sport 11m, 3

Another slabby wall with a three FHs. This one is a bit mossy. If you avoid the crack on the right near the end its a few grades harder.

4
15 The Easy Root Trad 10m

Starts on far right of this wall at juggy corner. At top of corner swing up the arête above. There is currently a large ferny thing hanging down the middle.

Middle Wall

5

Wide right facing corner crack. A highball boulder problem or bring some big cams.

6
16 Premature Evacuation Sport 8m, 3

Slightly contrived arête with big u-bolts that has lower-off well below the top of the cliff. Mantle out and walk off for the proper tick.

7
12 Tiptoe Ridge Trad 12m

Classy easy route but protection looks sparse. Just left of the tree and right of the giant u-bolts.

8
15 The Chimney Sport 12m, 3

Climb the obvious chimney bridging between the two blocks avoiding the big tree on the left. Finish up the left hand block.

9
21 * Kim Sport 10m, 3

The left arête on great rock, with some great technical moves. Three rings (and some leftover carrots - clip everything) to a lower-off.

10
18 Mowgli Sport 10m, 3

The nice slab in the middle of the wall, with three ring bolts to a lower-off

11
15 The Jungle Book Sport 9m, 3

Climbs the right side of the little slab just next to the track. Up small ramp to wall and two U bolts

12
12 The Right Edge Trad 10m

On the far right side of this slab, hidden behind the tree. Looks very dirty.

Right Wall

13
24 ** Slapperette Sport 10m, 4

Rounded arête just left of Glorius Manglervision. Contrived but funky. can be done without, but the hold on the right between the 2nd and 3rd bolts makes it much funner.

14
19 Glorious Manglervision Sport 13m, 3

Left leaning crack in behind the trees. Quite tricky layback moves and an awkward finish. A little bold. Recently retro-bolted.

15
23 * Between the Lines Sport 16m, 6

Sustained but contrived. Shallow right facing corner to rooflet. Right to flake on left side of corner - up this to arete then left and over roof. Easy to Mcdougall, but you still need to do the 23 move at the end.

16
20 * Bruised and Scratched Sport 15m, 5

A fun bolted wide crack that involves no thrutching. Bomber hand jam to start which almost immediately widens to an off-width corner. Tricky finish through the roof to finish. Retro-bolted but you might need a medium cam for the start or stick-clip the high bolt.

17
24 *** Lean Beef Sport 15m, 6

Some of the best rock in Sydney. 6 rings crossing wall from right to left - then big move up final wall to double RB Lower off. Very reachy - or dynoy. There is a large loose block at the last bolt - take care.

FA: Mike Law 1990s, 2000

18
27 ** Heavy Haulage Sport 15m

Start as for LB, continue on a direct line to the top (if you can). Either finish direct on DBB (carrots) over the top, or traverse at top to LB Lower off. Recently rebolted. GOLD!!

FA: Giles Bradbury & Mike Law 1990s, 2000

19
18 * Offalwidth Mixed 16m, 3

Big wide rounded crack splitting right side of main wall. Clip the 3 bolts on A1 but stay left up the wide crack to top-out. Walk off.

20
23 * A1 Sport 15m

Contrived. Just to the right of big offwidth. Powerfull line of crimpy goodness. Stay out the crack for the real tick. Double BB lower off up high in near the trees.

21
22 Aarvark Sport 15m, 3

Face just to the right A1 and left of scoopy cave. Big ugly U Bolts that finishes prematurely well below the top of the cliff. 'Contrived' if you avoid the jugs to the right.

Far Right Wall

22
16 Climb at Own Risk Sport 12m

Climb overhanging juggy scoops. FHs to double BB.

23
17 Lumberjack Sport 15m, 4

Good warm-up. Right most bolted route starting in a small cave off a rock ledge. 4 u-bolts and giant u-bolt lower-off.

Unknown

24
25
15 F Unknown 10m
26
18 G Unknown 10m
27
19 H Unknown 10m
28
18 India Unknown 10m

the left hand route. Follow the left most line of U bolts

Open trips

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