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Summary

Short single pitch sport climbing with insanely short access. Very kid friendly.

Description

Bonnet Bay is one of the original and best Shire crags. It is a small area but many of the routes are top notch quality. Lean Beef (24) and Kim (21) are the best routes here. Can be muggy and mosquito ridden in summer. There has been much rebolting in recent years so most climbs are super safe. Keep your noise down as houses are right below the crag. This is a great spot for the kids, with nice level grassy area and only minutes from the car.

Access issues

There are houses right below the crag, and nearby bouldering areas have been closed in recent years. Keep your noise down and be friendly to the residents.

Approach

Park just before the intersection of 188 Washington Drive and Harrison Avenue in 'Bonnet Bay'. Walk back up Washington Road for 40m past the last house to find a track entering bush on the right. Hike up this for 20 seconds to arrive at the climbing. This track is located directly opposite the popular boat ramp. Climbs are named from LEFT to RIGHT as you face the cliff.

Ethic

Sport sport sport. All of the cracks here are bolted - but were originally led on trad.

History

There is very little known about the first ascent details of the majority of routes at this crag. Many routes were literally just labeled A, B, C etc in early internet guides. In recent years new names have been made up and grades have been consolidated. If you know anything more please add this info!

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Left Wall

20m up and left of the main track is this short grey wall with gigantic U-bolts.

1
21 Stuck in the City Sport 8m, 3

The far left arete on subtle sloping pockets. Top-out on blob holds to tree belay - or reverse mantle and lower-off single large bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith, 10th May

2
18 Overkilled / India Sport 10m, 3

The far left route with giant U-bolts. Easy start then tricky finish - stay left unless you want to get sandbagged.

FA: Ed Rutherford?

3
18 Stopping Short Sport 10m, 2

Slopey grit like wall climbing on giant ugly u-bolts. Lower-off anchors are positioned 1m lower than it should be. Top out for the full tick.

FA: Ed Rutherford?

4
15 to 17 Mildly Bent Sport 11m, 3

Another slabby wall with a three FHs. This one is a bit mossy. If you avoid the crack on the right near the end its a few grades harder.

5
15 The Easy Root Trad 10m

Starts on far right of this wall at juggy corner. At top of corner swing up the arête above. There is currently a large ferny thing hanging down the middle.

Middle Wall

The first bit of rock the main trail walks under. It is actually two blocks split by a narrow chimney with a gnarled tree growing across the entrance.

6

Wide right facing corner crack. A highball boulder problem or bring some big cams.

7
15 to 16 Premature Evacuation Sport 8m, 3

Slightly contrived arête with big u-bolts that has lower-off well below the top of the cliff. Mantle out and walk off for the proper tick.

FA: Ed Rutherford?

8
12 Tiptoe Ridge Trad 12m

Classy easy route but protection looks sparse. Just left of the tree and right of the giant u-bolts.

9
15 * The Chimney Sport 12m, 3

Climb the obvious bolted chimney bridging between the two blocks avoiding the big tree on the left. Finish up the left hand block.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

10
21 * Kim Sport 10m, 3

One of the best short aretes in the Shire. The left arête of the wall with heaps of fun technical moves. 3 rinbolts and lower-off.

11
18 Mowgli Sport 10m, 3

The nice slab in the middle of the wall, with three ring bolts to a lower-off

12
15 The Jungle Book Sport 9m, 3

Climbs the right side of the little slab just next to the track. Up small ramp to wall and two U bolts

13
12 The Right Edge Trad 10m

On the far right side of this slab, hidden behind the tree. Fun juggy climbing up thin rock ridge. Not much protection.

FA: Neil Monteith (solo), 2011

Right Wall

The most impressive wall at the crag - covered in bolts and chalk.

14
24 ** Slapperette Sport 10m, 4

Rounded arête just left of Glorious Manglervision with a tree growing annoyingly in the way.. Contrived but funky. Can be done without, but the hold on the right between the 2nd and 3rd bolts makes it much funner.

FA: Mike Law, 2011

15
19 * Glorious Manglervision Sport 13m, 3

Left leaning flared crack in behind the trees. Quite tricky layback moves and an awkward finish. A little bold if you only clip bolts. Recently retro-bolted.

FA: Mike Law 1980s

16
23 * Between the Lines Sport 16m, 6

Sustained but contrived. Shallow right facing corner to rooflet. Right to flake on left side of corner - up this to arete then left and over roof. Easy to Mcdougall, but you still need to do the 23 move at the end.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2010

17
20 * Bruised and Scratched Sport 15m, 5

A fun bolted wide crack that involves no thrutching. Bomber hand jam to start which almost immediately widens to an off-width corner. Tricky finish through the roof to finish. Retro-bolted.

FA: Mike Law 1980s

18
24 *** Lean Beef Sport 15m, 6

Some of the best rock in Sydney. 6 rings crossing wall from right to left - then big move up final wall to double RB Lower off. Very reachy - or dynoy. There is a large loose block at the last bolt - take care.

FA: Mike Law 1990s

19
27 ** Heavy Haulage Sport 15m, 6

One of the hardest routes in the Shire and appears to have thwarted every attempt at a repeat. Start as for LB, continue on a direct line to the top (if you can). There has been two variant methods that have been done - (27) ignore third bolt and climb left to good jug on Lean Beef. Now DYNO up and right to join back into line. If you are a tall there is (25) option. Climb to third RB, then traverse right to arete (left side of Offalwdith). Up a few moves then traverse back left (reachy) into line. Finish up to anchors on Lean Beef.

FA: Giles Bradbury & Mike Law 1990s

20
18 * Offalwidth Mixed 16m, 3

Big wide rounded crack splitting right side of main wall. Clip the 3 bolts on A1 but stay left up the wide crack to top-out. Walk off.

21
23 * A1 Sport 15m, 5

Contrived. Just to the right of big offwidth. Powerfull line of crimpy goodness on ringbolts and one FH. Stay out the crack for the real tick. Lower-off anchor right on top of cliff.

22
22 Aarvark Sport 15m, 3

Contrived face just to the right A1 and left of scoopy cave. Big ugly U Bolts that finishes prematurely well below the top of the cliff. 'Contrived' if you avoid the jugs to the right. That start is protected by a FH.

FA: Ed Rutherford?

23
17 ** Burning Shells Top rope 14m, 5

Did you know that the first European settlers burnt most of Sydney's Aboriginal oyster shell middens to make cement? Start just right of Aardvark and climbs juggy steep scoop feature. Finish right up to the top of the cliff to lower-off anchor. All ringbolts.

Far Right Wall

24
16 Climb at Own Risk Sport 12m

Worst route at the crag. Chossy, very rusty bolts and a tree grows in the way. Climb overhanging juggy scoops traversing left under roof, then up rounded arete. FHs to double BB.

FA: Ian Bruce, 2003

25
17 Lumberjack Sport 15m, 4

Good warm-up. Right most bolted route starting in a small cave off a rock ledge. 4 u-bolts and single giant u-bolt lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2010

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