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Table of contents

1. Bonnet Bay 28 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 151.050332, -34.012026

Description:© (secretary)

Great sport climbing and one of the more popular spots in The Shire. Has possibly the best 24 and 27 sport route in Sydney. Great spot for the kids, with nice level grassy area and only minutes from the car. Can be muggy and mosquito ridden in summer. There has been much rebolting in recent years so most climbs are super safe. Keep your noise down as houses are right below the crag.

Approach:© (secretary)

Park just before the intersection of 188 Washington Drive and Harrison Avenue in 'Bonnet Bay'. Walk back up Washington Road for 40m past the last house to find a track entering bush on the right. Hike up this for 20 seconds to arrive at the climbing. This track is located directly opposite the popular boat ramp. Climbs are named from LEFT to RIGHT as you face the Cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Left Wall

1 Overkilled

The far left route with giant U-bolts. Easy start then tricky finish.

18Sport 10m, 3
2 * Stopping Short

Slopey grit like wall climbing on giant ugly u-bolts. Rap anchor is positioned 1m lower than it should be. Top out for the full tick.

18Sport 10m, 2
3 Mildly Bent

Another slabby wall with a three FHs. This one is a bit mossy. If you avoid the crack on the right near the end its a few grades harder.

17Sport 11m, 3
4 The Easy Root

Starts on far right of this wall at juggy corner. At top of corner swing up the arête above. There is currently a large ferny thing hanging down the middle.

15Trad 10m

Middle Wall

5 Suburban Crack Fiend

Wide right facing corner crack. A highball boulder problem or bring some big cams.

16Trad 6m
6 Premature Evacuation

Slightly contrived arête with big u-bolts that has lower-off well below the top of the cliff. Mantle out and walk off for the proper tick.

16Sport 8m, 3
7 Tiptoe Ridge

Classy easy route but protection looks sparse. Just left of the tree and right of the giant u-bolts.

12Trad 12m
8 The Chimney

Climb the obvious chimney bridging between the two blocks avoiding the big tree on the left. Finish up the left hand block.

15Sport 12m, 3
9 * Kim

The left arête on great rock, with some great technical moves. Three rings (and some leftover carrots - clip everything) to a lower-off.

21Sport 10m, 3
10 Mowgli

The nice slab in the middle of the wall, with three ring bolts to a lower-off

18Sport 10m, 3
11 The Jungle Book

Climbs the right side of the little slab just next to the track. Up small ramp to wall and two U bolts

15Sport 9m, 3
12 The Right Edge

On the far right side of this slab, hidden behind the tree. Looks very dirty.

12Trad 10m

Right Wall

13 ** Slapperette

Rounded arête just left of Glorius Manglervision. Contrived but funky. can be done without, but the hold on the right between the 2nd and 3rd bolts makes it much funner.

24Sport 10m, 4
14 Glorious Manglervision

Left leaning crack in behind the trees. Quite tricky layback moves and an awkward finish. A little bold. Recently retro-bolted.

19Sport 13m, 3
15 * Between the Lines

Sustained but contrived. Shallow right facing corner to rooflet. Right to flake on left side of corner - up this to arete then left and over roof. Easy to Mcdougall, but you still need to do the 23 move at the end.

23Sport 16m, 6
16 * Bruised and Scratched

A fun bolted wide crack that involves no thrutching. Bomber hand jam to start which almost immediately widens to an off-width corner. Tricky finish through the roof to finish. Retro-bolted but you might need a medium cam for the start or stick-clip the high bolt.

20Sport 15m, 5
17 *** Lean Beef

Some of the best rock in Sydney. 6 rings crossing wall from right to left - then big move up final wall to double RB Lower off. Very reachy - or dynoy. There is a large loose block at the last bolt - take care.

FA: Mike Law 1990s, 2000

24Sport 15m, 6
18 ** Heavy Haulage

Start as for LB, continue on a direct line to the top (if you can). Either finish direct on DBB (carrots) over the top, or traverse at top to LB Lower off. Recently rebolted. GOLD!!

FA: Giles Bradbury & Mike Law 1990s, 2000

27Sport 15m
19 * Offalwidth

Big wide rounded crack splitting right side of main wall. Clip the 3 bolts on A1 but stay left up the wide crack to top-out. Walk off.

18Mixed 16m, 3
20 * A1

Contrived. Just to the right of big offwidth. Powerfull line of crimpy goodness. Stay out the crack for the real tick. Double BB lower off up high in near the trees.

23Sport 15m
21 Aarvark

Face just to the right A1 and left of scoopy cave. Big ugly U Bolts that finishes prematurely well below the top of the cliff. 'Contrived' if you avoid the jugs to the right.

22Sport 15m, 3

Far Right Wall

22 Climb at Own Risk

Climb overhanging juggy scoops. FHs to double BB.

16Sport 12m
23 Lumberjack

Good warm-up. Right most bolted route starting in a small cave off a rock ledge. 4 u-bolts and giant u-bolt lower-off.

17Sport 15m, 4


24 Around the corner from D 15Unknown 10m
25 F 15Unknown 10m
26 G 18Unknown 10m
27 H 19Unknown 10m
28 India

the left hand route. Follow the left most line of U bolts

18Unknown 10m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
12 The Right Edge Trad 10m
Tiptoe Ridge Trad 12m
15 Around the corner from D Unknown 10m
F Unknown 10m
The Chimney Sport 12m, 3
The Easy Root Trad 10m
The Jungle Book Sport 9m, 3
16 Climb at Own Risk Sport 12m
Premature Evacuation Sport 8m, 3
Suburban Crack Fiend Trad 6m
17 Lumberjack Sport 15m, 4
Mildly Bent Sport 11m, 3
18 G Unknown 10m
India Unknown 10m
Mowgli Sport 10m, 3
* Offalwidth Mixed 16m, 3
Overkilled Sport 10m, 3
* Stopping Short Sport 10m, 2
19 Glorious Manglervision Sport 13m, 3
H Unknown 10m
20 * Bruised and Scratched Sport 15m, 5
21 * Kim Sport 10m, 3
22 Aarvark Sport 15m, 3
23 * A1 Sport 15m
* Between the Lines Sport 16m, 6
24 *** Lean Beef Sport 15m, 6
** Slapperette Sport 10m, 4
27 ** Heavy Haulage Sport 15m