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Table of contents

1. Bonnet Bay 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Trad and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 151.050332, -34.012026

Unique Features And Strengths:

Short single pitch sport climbing with insanely short access. Very kid friendly.

Description:

Bonnet Bay is one of the original and best Shire crags. It is a small area but many of the routes are top notch quality. Lean Beef (24) and Kim (21) are the best routes here. Can be muggy and mosquito ridden in summer. There has been much rebolting in recent years so most climbs are super safe. Keep your noise down as houses are right below the crag. This is a great spot for the kids, with nice level grassy area and only minutes from the car.

Access Issues:

There are houses right below the crag, and nearby bouldering areas have been closed in recent years. Keep your noise down and be friendly to the residents.

Approach:

Park just before the intersection of 188 Washington Drive and Harrison Avenue in 'Bonnet Bay'. Walk back up Washington Road for 40m past the last house to find a track entering bush on the right. Hike up this for 20 seconds to arrive at the climbing. This track is located directly opposite the popular boat ramp. Climbs are named from LEFT to RIGHT as you face the cliff.

Ethic:

Sport sport sport. All of the cracks here are bolted - but were originally led on trad.

History:

There is very little known about the first ascent details of the majority of routes at this crag. Many routes were literally just labeled A, B, C etc in early internet guides. In recent years new names have been made up and grades have been consolidated. If you know anything more please add this info!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Left Wall

20m up and left of the main track is this short grey wall with gigantic U-bolts.

1 Stuck in the City

Top-rope only. The far left arete on subtle sloping pockets. Needs two bolts and lower-off.

22 Top rope 8m
2 Overkilled / India

The far left route with giant U-bolts. Easy start then tricky finish - stay left unless you want to get sandbagged.

FA: Ed Rutherford?

18 Sport 10m, 3
3 Stopping Short

Slopey grit like wall climbing on giant ugly u-bolts. Lower-off anchors are positioned 1m lower than it should be. Top out for the full tick.

FA: Ed Rutherford?

18 Sport 10m, 2
4 Mildly Bent

Another slabby wall with a three FHs. This one is a bit mossy. If you avoid the crack on the right near the end its a few grades harder.

15 to 17 Sport 11m, 3
5 The Easy Root

Starts on far right of this wall at juggy corner. At top of corner swing up the arête above. There is currently a large ferny thing hanging down the middle.

15 Trad 10m

Middle Wall

The first bit of rock the main trail walks under. It is actually two blocks split by a narrow chimney with a gnarled tree growing across the entrance.

6 Suburban Crack Fiend

Wide right facing corner crack. A highball boulder problem or bring some big cams.

16 Trad 6m
7 Premature Evacuation

Slightly contrived arête with big u-bolts that has lower-off well below the top of the cliff. Mantle out and walk off for the proper tick.

FA: Ed Rutherford?

15 to 16 Sport 8m, 3
8 Tiptoe Ridge

Classy easy route but protection looks sparse. Just left of the tree and right of the giant u-bolts.

12 Trad 12m
9 * The Chimney

Climb the obvious chimney bridging between the two blocks avoiding the big tree on the left. Finish up the left hand block.

15 Sport 12m, 3
10 * Kim

The left arête on great rock, with some great technical moves. Three rings (and some leftover carrots - clip everything) to a lower-off.

21 Sport 10m, 3
11 Mowgli

The nice slab in the middle of the wall, with three ring bolts to a lower-off

18 Sport 10m, 3
12 The Jungle Book

Climbs the right side of the little slab just next to the track. Up small ramp to wall and two U bolts

15 Sport 9m, 3
13 The Right Edge

On the far right side of this slab, hidden behind the tree. Fun juggy climbing up thin rock ridge. Not much protection.

FA: Neil Monteith (solo), 2011

12 Trad 10m

Right Wall

The most impressive wall at the crag - covered in bolts and chalk.

14 ** Slapperette

Rounded arête just left of Glorius Manglervision. Contrived but funky. can be done without, but the hold on the right between the 2nd and 3rd bolts makes it much funner.

24 Sport 10m, 4
15 Glorious Manglervision

Left leaning crack in behind the trees. Quite tricky layback moves and an awkward finish. A little bold. Recently retro-bolted.

19 Sport 13m, 3
16 * Between the Lines

Sustained but contrived. Shallow right facing corner to rooflet. Right to flake on left side of corner - up this to arete then left and over roof. Easy to Mcdougall, but you still need to do the 23 move at the end.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2010

23 Sport 16m, 6
17 * Bruised and Scratched

A fun bolted wide crack that involves no thrutching. Bomber hand jam to start which almost immediately widens to an off-width corner. Tricky finish through the roof to finish. Retro-bolted but you might need a medium cam for the start or stick-clip the high bolt.

20 Sport 15m, 5
18 *** Lean Beef

Some of the best rock in Sydney. 6 rings crossing wall from right to left - then big move up final wall to double RB Lower off. Very reachy - or dynoy. There is a large loose block at the last bolt - take care.

FA: Mike Law 1990s, 2000

24 Sport 15m, 6
19 ** Heavy Haulage

One of the hardest routes in the Shire and appears to have thwarted every attempt at a repeat. Start as for LB, continue on a direct line to the top (if you can). There has been two variant methods that have been done - (27) ignore third bolt and climb left to good jug on Lean Beef. Now DYNO up and right to join back into line. If you are a tall there is (25) option. Climb to third RB, then traverse right to arete (left side of Offalwdith). Up a few moves then traverse back left (reachy) into line. Finish up to anchors on Lean Beef.

FA: Giles Bradbury,Mike Law 1990s

27 Sport 15m, 6
20 * Offalwidth

Big wide rounded crack splitting right side of main wall. Clip the 3 bolts on A1 but stay left up the wide crack to top-out. Walk off.

18 Mixed 16m, 3
21 * A1

Contrived. Just to the right of big offwidth. Powerfull line of crimpy goodness on ringbolts and one FH. Stay out the crack for the real tick. Lower-off anchor right on top of cliff.

23 Sport 15m, 5
22 Aarvark

Face just to the right A1 and left of scoopy cave. Big ugly U Bolts that finishes prematurely well below the top of the cliff. 'Contrived' if you avoid the jugs to the right. That start is protected by a FH.

22 Sport 15m, 3
23 ** Burning Shells

Did you know that the first European settlers burnt most of Sydney's Aboriginal oyster shell middens to make cement? Start just right of Aardvark and climbs juggy steep scoop feature. Finish right up to the top of the cliff to lower-off anchor. All ringbolts.

17 Top rope 14m, 5

Far Right Wall

24 Climb at Own Risk

Climb overhanging juggy scoops. FHs to double BB.

FA: Ian Bruce, 2003

16 Sport 12m
25 Lumberjack

Good warm-up. Right most bolted route starting in a small cave off a rock ledge. 4 u-bolts and single giant u-bolt lower-off.

FA: @nmonteith

17 Sport 15m, 4

Delete this

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
12 The Right Edge Trad 10m
Tiptoe Ridge Trad 12m
15 * The Chimney Sport 12m, 3
The Easy Root Trad 10m
The Jungle Book Sport 9m, 3
15 to 16 Premature Evacuation Sport 8m, 3
16 Climb at Own Risk Sport 12m
Suburban Crack Fiend Trad 6m
15 to 17 Mildly Bent Sport 11m, 3
17 ** Burning Shells Top rope 14m, 5
Lumberjack Sport 15m, 4
18 Mowgli Sport 10m, 3
* Offalwidth Mixed 16m, 3
Overkilled Sport 10m, 3
Stopping Short Sport 10m, 2
19 Glorious Manglervision Sport 13m, 3
20 * Bruised and Scratched Sport 15m, 5
21 * Kim Sport 10m, 3
22 Aarvark Sport 15m, 3
Stuck in the City Top rope 8m
23 * A1 Sport 15m, 5
* Between the Lines Sport 16m, 6
24 *** Lean Beef Sport 15m, 6
** Slapperette Sport 10m, 4
27 ** Heavy Haulage Sport 15m, 6