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A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Neil Monteith Matt Short Kyle Dunsire Brendon Flanagan David O'Donnell Ryan Whelan Steven Martin Stephen Hawkshaw shaunm

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Table of contents

1. Bonnet Bay 28 routes in Area

Summary:
Top Rope,Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 151.050332, -34.012026

Description:© (secretary)

Great sport climbing and one of the more popular spots in The Shire. Has possibly the best 24 and 27 sport route in Sydney. Great spot for the kids, with nice level grassy area and only minutes from the car. Can be muggy and mosquito ridden in summer. There has been much rebolting in recent years so most climbs are super safe. Keep your noise down as houses are right below the crag.

Access Issues: inherited from Sutherland

There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.

Approach:© (secretary)

Park just before the intersection of 188 Washington Drive and Harrison Avenue in 'Bonnet Bay'. Walk back up Washington Road for 40m past the last house to find a track entering bush on the right. Hike up this for 20 seconds to arrive at the climbing. This track is located directly opposite the popular boat ramp. Climbs are named from LEFT to RIGHT as you face the Cliff.

Ethic: inherited from Sutherland

There are no real ethics in Sydney, ethics were surrended to the Riobi and Hilti crews in the 1990's. It is common that people retro-bolt. Places like Bonnet Bay, Wastelands and Heathcote being good examples. In recent times, old routes have been repeated and renamed at places which is a little dissapointing. It would be sad to see the crags grid locked with rings.

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents

Left Wall

1 Overkilled

The far left route with giant U-bolts. Easy start then tricky finish.

18
Sport 10m , 3
Chris 4 weeks ago

Ok

Matt Short 4 weeks ago

A good climb and not too hard. The lower off is a bit of a reach.

2 * Stopping Short

Slopey grit like wall climbing on giant ugly u-bolts. Rap anchor is positioned 1m lower than it should be. Top out for the full tick.

18
Sport 10m , 2
Chris 4 weeks ago

Ok

Matt Short 4 weeks ago

A couple of harder moves at the top but OK.

3 Mildly Bent

Another slabby wall with a three FHs. This one is a bit mossy. If you avoid the crack on the right near the end its a few grades harder.

17
Sport 11m , 3
Chris 4 weeks ago

Ok

Matt Short 4 weeks ago

Not too interesting.

4 The Easy Root

Starts on far right of this wall at juggy corner. At top of corner swing up the arête above. There is currently a large ferny thing hanging down the middle.

15
Trad 10m

Middle Wall

5 Suburban Crack Fiend

Wide right facing corner crack. A highball boulder problem or bring some big cams.

16
Trad 6m
6 Premature Evacuation

Slightly contrived arête with big u-bolts that has lower-off well below the top of the cliff. Mantle out and walk off for the proper tick.

16
Sport 8m , 3
Brendon Flanagan 7 months ago

Crap!

7 Tiptoe Ridge

Classy easy route but protection looks sparse. Just left of the tree and right of the giant u-bolts.

12
Trad 12m
8 The Chimney

Climb the obvious chimney bridging between the two blocks avoiding the big tree on the left. Finish up the left hand block.

15
Sport 12m , 3
Rod Smith 3 weeks ago

Sydney Rockies' Trip.

Matt Short 4 weeks ago

Interesting moves to get up the chimney but overall a good climb.

9 Kim

The left arête on great rock, with some great technical moves. Three rings (and some leftover carrots - clip everything) to a lower-off.

21
Sport 10m , 3
Rod Smith 3 weeks ago

Sydney Rockies' Trip.

10 Mowgli

The nice slab in the middle of the wall, with two carrots. Belay at the top on double BRs and scramble down the back.

18
Sport 10m , 3
Rod Smith 3 weeks ago

Sydney Rockies' Trip.

Neil Monteith 4 months ago

Repeat. Tough for 18.

11 The Jungle Book

Climbs the right side of the little slab just next to the track. Up small ramp to wall and two U bolts

15
Sport 9m , 3
Neil Monteith 4 months ago

Repeat

Ben Jenga 1 years ago

Fun little climb with some great holds.

12 The Right Edge

On the far right side of this slab, hidden behind the tree. Looks very dirty.

12
Trad 10m

Right Wall

13 ** Slapperette

Rounded arête just left of Glorius Manglervision. Contrived but funky. can be done without, but the hold on the right between the 2nd and 3rd bolts makes it much funner.

24
Sport 10m , 4
14 ** Glorious Manglervision

Left leaning crack in behind the trees. Quite tricky layback moves and an awkward finish. A little bold. Recently retro-bolted.

18
Sport 13m , 3
Matt Short 4 weeks ago

Fell on the first move because the wall and crack were wet. Was very good and a lot dryer after t...

15 ** Between the Lines

Sustained but contrived. Shallow right facing corner to rooflet. Right to flake on left side of corner - up this to arete then left and over roof. Easy to Mcdougall, but you still need to do the 23 move at the end.

23
Sport 16m , 6
Ben Jenga 1 years ago

A very pumpy climb for being so short.

Jason Lammers 2 years ago

Techy and Good

16 * Bruised and Scratched

A fun bolted wide crack that involves no thrutching. Bomber hand jam to start which almost immediately widens to an off-width corner. Tricky finish through the roof to finish. Retro-bolted but you might need a medium cam for the start or stick-clip the high bolt.

17
Sport 15m , 5
Ben Jenga 1 years ago

Hard little bolted trad climb. Heel an toe action.

Jason Lammers 2 years ago

Awesome bolted Trad !

17 *** Lean Beef

Some of the best rock in Sydney. 6 rings crossing wall from right to left - then big move up final wall to double RB Lower off. Very reachy - or dynoy. There is a large loose block at the last bolt - take care.

FA: Mike Law 1990s, 2000

24
Sport 15m , 6
Neil Monteith 4 months ago

Repeat

Ben Jenga 1 years ago

Worth the drive for sure, not to hard for my 6 foot reach. Great jugs.

18 ** Heavy Haulage

Start as for LB, continue on a direct line to the top (if you can). Either finish direct on DBB (carrots) over the top, or traverse at top to LB Lower off. Recently rebolted. GOLD!!

FA: Giles Bradbury & Mike Law 1990s, 2000

27
Sport 15m
Neil Monteith 4 months ago

Very hard single move

Trent Lee 7 years ago

Thats one hard move!

19 * Offalwidth

Big wide rounded crack splitting right side of main wall. Clip the 3 bolts on A1 but stay left up the wide crack to top-out. Walk off.

18
Mixed 16m , 3
Matt Short 4 weeks ago

Nice climb up the crack. Felt ok clipping the bolts on A1.

20 * A1

Contrived. Just to the right of big offwidth. Powerfull line of crimpy goodness. Stay out the crack for the real tick. Double BB lower off up high in near the trees.

23
Sport 15m
Trent Lee 7 years ago

funky...soft...good

Stephen Hawkshaw 8 years ago

excellent crimpy route closer to 21.

21 Aarvark

Face just to the right A1 and left of scoopy cave. Big ugly U Bolts that finishes prematurely well below the top of the cliff. 'Contrived' if you avoid the jugs to the right.

22
Sport 15m , 3
Rod Smith 3 weeks ago

Used arête. Told it was a straight 19. Sydney Rockies' Trip.

Matt Short 4 weeks ago

I loved this route. Great moves through the overhang on huge holds involving a heel hook. Then a ...

Far Right Wall

22 Climb at Own Risk

Climb overhanging juggy scoops. FHs to double BB.

16
Sport 12m
Ryan Whelan 6 years ago

much easier than last time

David O'Donnell 7 years ago

character builder!. GET ON IT ALL YOU ALPINE NUTS!!. I thought it was spindrift in my eyes, but t...

23 Lumberjack

Good warm-up. Right most bolted route starting in a small cave off a rock ledge. 4 u-bolts and giant u-bolt lower-off.

17
Sport 15m , 4
Rod Smith 3 weeks ago

Sydney Rockies' Trip.

Chris 4 weeks ago

Interesting start

Unknown

24 Around the corner from D
15
Unknown 10m
Ryan Whelan 6 years ago

balancy

25 F
15
Unknown 10m
Ryan Whelan 6 years ago

hard in joggers

Ryan Whelan 6 years ago

another tick nothing special

26 G
18
Unknown 10m
David O'Donnell 7 years ago

nice UUUUUUUUU bolts DUUUUUUUUUDE!!!!

27 H
19
Unknown 10m
Peter Webster 3 years ago

Only bother if ur after an easy warm-up, those giant U's are just wrong..

28 India

the left hand route. Follow the left most line of U bolts

18
Unknown 10m
Ryan Whelan 6 years ago

felt like 16 and needs a clean

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
12 The Right Edge Trad 10m
Tiptoe Ridge Trad 12m
15 Around the corner from D Unknown 10m
F Unknown 10m
The Chimney Sport 12m , 3
The Easy Root Trad 10m
The Jungle Book Sport 9m , 3
16 Climb at Own Risk Sport 12m
Premature Evacuation Sport 8m , 3
Suburban Crack Fiend Trad 6m
17 * Bruised and Scratched Sport 15m , 5
Lumberjack Sport 15m , 4
Mildly Bent Sport 11m , 3
18 G Unknown 10m
** Glorious Manglervision Sport 13m , 3
India Unknown 10m
Mowgli Sport 10m , 3
* Offalwidth Mixed 16m , 3
Overkilled Sport 10m , 3
* Stopping Short Sport 10m , 2
19 H Unknown 10m
21 Kim Sport 10m , 3
22 Aarvark Sport 15m , 3
23 * A1 Sport 15m
** Between the Lines Sport 16m , 6
24 *** Lean Beef Sport 15m , 6
** Slapperette Sport 10m , 4
27 ** Heavy Haulage Sport 15m