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Summary

Well bolted micro routes with super easy access. If you've done Bangor than maybe give this a go for a couple of hours. Rock is heavily featured - stay away after rain or you will break holds.

Description

Janali is a great example of a 'local' cliff - extremely short, super easy access and every bit of worthwhile rock has been climbed over. You could climb every good route here in an hour if you are keen. The cliff has insanely short access (under a minute) and top-ropes are easy to setup along the top of the cliff. The crag gets afternoon sun. The cliff does seep a little in places and doesn't receive a lot of traffic - the worst routes here are some of the worst routes in Sydney.

Access issues

There are suburban houses right above the left side of the cliff-line. Keep your noise down and park your car with some thought to the locals who live here.

Approach

Park at end of Taft Place in Jannali and walk down fire trail next to giant water pipe for 40m. Scramble down right and hook back under the scrappy cliff line to arrive at 'Mystery Climb'.

History

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Paul Wheeler and Dave Barnes bolted the first routes here in the mid 90s. Twp decades later Neil Monteith added three other routes in between baby birthing duties.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
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1
14 Mystery Climb Mixed 5m, 1

Far right side of crag. Clip useless FH at waist then step off ground and up thin left facing flake.

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2
21 He's Back Dear Sport 7m, 2

Sandy choss nonsense - and a sandbag. The right route on the wall 10m left of Mystery Climb. Bouldery moves past 2 FHs to chain lower off on left.

FA: Dave Barnes

3
22 ★ I Wanna Be a Cowboy Sport 7m, 3

One of the better routes here - which isn't saying much. The middle line of bolts up the pocketed wall. Pull monos to the 3rd FH, step left and up the flake. Reach back right to jugs and a lower off chain. Direct finish via chipped undercling is hard 23/24.

FA: Dave Barnes

4
19 Cenotaph Sport 7m, 6

Start 2m left of I Wanna Be A Cowboy at line of very rusty carrots. Reachy horizontals to start then dirty crack. Needs a good clean and rebolt.

5
17 Roger Trad 7m

A dirty and vegetated seam crack 5m left of Centopah. Yum.

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6
20 Can We Leave Now? Sport 8m, 3

Apt name. Dirty and seeps most of the time. Up to first RB on M, then traverse right along break (optional mid size cams, 2 RBs). Mantle up and traverse left to chain.

Set by Paul Wheeler, 1995

7
17 Masquerade Sport 8m, 4

Good fun when it's not wet. Start 1m right of MotN scoop, below thin flake. Up the flake then mantle up to ledge and large rap chain. Looks dirty but is actually quite clean.

FA: Paul Wheeler, 1995

8
15 Music of the Night Sport 8m, 3

A nice clean featured scoop and great example of a quality Shire mini route. Up the right edge of scoop and finish up fun arête.

FA: Paul Wheeler, 1995

9
17 Jnarly Sport 7m, 3

Left side the sccop with a reachy move up high and a big tree right behind.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jason Budden, 23 May 2015

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10
19 ★ Between Feeds Sport 7m, 3

2m left of Jnarly, and left of tree. Up face on pockets, left with difficulty to layback flake then back right into scoop and rap anchors.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jason Budden, 23 May 2015

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11
6 ★★★ Monty's Slot Trad 8m

Squeeze up into the slot and squirm on your stomach out to the lip. What a megaclassic.

FFA: Gay Welders Union, 23 May 2015

12
19 ★ Woody Woodpecker Sport 8m

Steep little plaything. 10m left of Between Feeds on far left end of crag. Overhung flake rib on left side of orange cave then stem across and up right arete at top. This climb has unique large holds. Please treat them with care - don't climb this route after rain.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jason Budden, 23 May 2015

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