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Description

This crag has been played on in the 1990's but does not recieve traffic as there is not much on offer. A half a dozen micro routes and maybe a little bouldering is on offer. The crag gets a good dose of sun and access is a breeze. See the Sun, Surf & Sandstone Sydney Guide for futher beta.

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.

Approach

Park at end of Taft Place in Jannali and walk down fire trail next to giant water pipe for 20m. Scramble down right and hook back under the scrappy cliff line to arrive at 'Mystery Climb'. Routes are listed illogically from the left to right.

© (nmonteith)

Ethic inherited from Sutherland

There are no real ethics in Sydney, ethics were surrended to the Riobi and Hilti crews in the 1990's. It is common that people retro-bolt. Places like Bonnet Bay, Wastelands and Heathcote being good examples. In recent times, old routes have been repeated and renamed at places which is a little dissapointing. It would be sad to see the crags grid locked with rings.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
15 * Music of the Night Sport 8m, 3

A nice clean featured scoop. Up the right side of small cave and finish up fun arête. Traverse right to badly positioned chain.

2
18 Masquerade Sport 8m, 3

Start: 1m right of MotN, below thin flake.

Up the flake (3 RBs, optional mid size cam) to awkward mantle and large rap chain. Currently very dirty.

3
20 Can We Leave Now? Sport 8m, 3

Start: As for M.

Up to first RB on M, then traverse right along break (optional mid size cams, 2 RBs). Mantle up and traverse left to chain. A tad dirty.

4
17 Roger Trad 7m

A dirty and vegetated seam crack. Yum.

5
19 Cenotaph Sport 7m, 6

Start: 12m right of R, below a line of very rusty carrots. Reachy horizontals to start then dirty crack. Needs a good clean and rebolt.

6
22 * I Wanna Be a Cowboy Sport 7m, 3

The best route here - which isn't saying much. The middle line of bolts up the steep pocketed wall. Pull monos to the 3rd FH, step left and up the flake. Reach back right to jugs and a lower off chain. Direct finish is crimpy 23/24.

7
21 He's Back Dear Sport 7m, 2

The right route on the steep pocketed wall.

Bouldery moves past 2 FHs to chain lower off.

8
14 Mystery Climb Mixed 5m, 1

10m right of HBD. Clip useless FH at waist then step off ground and up thin left facing flake.