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Description

Barden Ridge is another Shire Suburban crag fest with a dozen middle grade micro routes. This crag has one one minute access from your car and great views. Watch out for snakes in summer. This joint has been climbed on for many years and I first visited in 1987. Many routes were bolted by Barnesy but they have probably already been done, just as the all those recent routes on the Right end.

Approach

To get there, drive south along Old 'Illawarra' Road until it becomes Thomas Mitchell Drive. Follow this along the top of the ridge until it starts to drop down and curve around to the left. Park at number 37 or 39 - the crag is located just across the road, about 15m into the bush. The best descent is to the right (facing out), just to the left of the rough stone block retaining wall. This brings you down to the left hand end of the crag (facing the cliff).

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
18 Let the Games Begin! Sport 14m

Start below the highest part, about 2m R of a chimney. Up to Ubolt (on EE) then the head left to cave (clip Ubolt and fixed hanger) and up through the overhang.

FA: Dave Barnes

2
18 * Errant Edge Sport 12m

Start 2m R of chimney below highpoint of crag. Up past bolt to ledge (extend bolt under lip), left a bit after roofs then finish left.

3
19 Emu's Paradise Sport 12m, 3

2m R of EE. Up the ledge and up wall above roof

FA: No Aid here.

4

Up ramp corner system to ledge then thru roofs about a metre R of Emu's Paradise and up crack past ring at top (short draw or screwgate as it's a bit low) to an awkward topout.

5
21 * Speed Zealot Sport 15m

FA: Greg Andrews; Dave Barnes

6
15 ** Gymea Lilly Trad 8m

At crack 1m right of SZ (behind the Gymea Lilly) below right end of high section.

Hard moves up crack to finish on ledge (old carrot and good cams). Please don't trash the Lilly.

7
21 * Rod's Rodeo Sport 6m, 2

Start about 3m R of Gymea Lilly. Up to U and past a tricky move R to a high 2nd bolt and finish on anchors shared with RAaR.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2005

8
21 * Ring around a Rod Sport 8m

Starts about 6m to the right of the 'Gymea Lilly' (Speed Zealot). Tricky start upto 1st bolt, then some beautiful moves past another bolt and another move upto the anchors.

Short and sweet. good climb. 2 UB to DUB Anchor

FA: Barnes

9

9m right of the crack (Gymea Lilly). Friggen thin between 1st and 2nd bolts

10
22 * Seams ok Sport 7m, 3

Thin crack just left of The Whippet, start left of short wide crack and up, single ring lower off

FA: mikl law, 2014

11
21 The Whippet Trad 8m

Starts about 5m left of arete (HNiI). Streno start up wide crack then right 1m to nice snakey layback crack.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2005

12
17 * Her Name is Iris Sport 6m, 3

Below arete at right hand end of crag. Good moves past 3 FHs.

13
19 ** Jeff's Bulging Wall Sport 7m, 2

About 2m R of 'Her name is Iris'. Up wall.

FA: Jeff Crass, 2014

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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