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Description

Shire Suburban crag fest with a dozen middle grade micro routes. This crag has one one minute access from your car and great views. Watch out for snakes in summer. This joint has been climbed on for many years and I first visited in 1987. Many routes were bolted by Barnesy but they have probably already been done, just as the all those recent routes on the Right end.

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Approach

To get there, drive south along Old 'Illawarra' Road until it becomes Thomas Mitchell Drive. Follow this along the top of the ridge until it starts to drop down and curve around to the left. Park at number 37 or 39 - the crag is located just across the road, about 15m into the bush. The best descent is to the right (facing out), just to the left of the rough stone block retaining wall. This brings you down to the left hand end of the crag (facing the cliff).

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start below the highest part, about 2m R of a chimney. Up to Ubolt (on EE) then the head left to cave (clip Ubolt and fixed hanger) and up through the overhang.

FA: Dave Barnes

Start 2m R of chimney below highpoint of crag. Up past bolt to ledge (extend bolt under lip), left a bit after roofs then finish left.

2m R of EE. Up the ledge and up wall above roof

FA: No Aid here.

Up ramp corner system to ledge then thru roofs about a metre R of Emu's Paradise and up crack past ring at top (short draw or screwgate as it's a bit low) to an awkward topout.

FA: Greg Andrews; Dave Barnes

At crack 1m right of SZ (behind the Gymea Lilly) below right end of high section.

Hard moves up crack to finish on ledge (old carrot and good cams). Please don't trash the Lilly.

Start about 3m R of Gymea Lilly. Up to U and past a tricky move R to a high 2nd bolt and finish on anchors shared with RAaR.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2005

Starts about 6m to the right of the 'Gymea Lilly' (Speed Zealot). Tricky start upto 1st bolt, then some beautiful moves past another bolt and another move upto the anchors.

Short and sweet. good climb. 2 UB to DUB Anchor

FA: Barnes

9m right of the crack (Gymea Lilly). Friggen thin between 1st and 2nd bolts

Thin crack just left of The Whippet, start left of short wide crack and up, single ring lower off

FA: mikl law, 2014

Starts about 5m left of arete (HNiI). Streno start up wide crack then right 1m to nice snakey layback crack.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2005

Below arete at right hand end of crag. Good moves past 3 FHs.

About 2m R of 'Her name is Iris'. Up wall.

FA: Jeff Crass, 2014

Activity

Check out what is happening in Barden Ridge.