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Table of contents

1. Barden Ridge 13 routes in Crag

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 151.009102, -34.042696


Barden Ridge is another Shire Suburban crag fest with a dozen middle grade micro routes. This crag has one one minute access from your car and great views. Watch out for snakes in summer. This joint has been climbed on for many years and I first visited in 1987. Many routes were bolted by Barnesy but they have probably already been done, just as the all those recent routes on the Right end.

Access Issues: inherited from Sutherland

There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.

Approach:© (secretary)

To get there, drive south along Old 'Illawarra' Road until it becomes Thomas Mitchell Drive. Follow this along the top of the ridge until it starts to drop down and curve around to the left. Park at number 37 or 39 - the crag is located just across the road, about 15m into the bush. The best descent is to the right (facing out), just to the left of the rough stone block retaining wall. This brings you down to the left hand end of the crag (facing the cliff).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Let the Games Begin!

Start below the highest part, about 2m R of a chimney. Up to Ubolt (on EE) then the head left to cave (clip Ubolt and fixed hanger) and up through the overhang.

FA: Dave Barnes

18 Sport 14m
2 * Errant Edge

Start 2m R of chimney below highpoint of crag. Up past bolt to ledge (extend bolt under lip), left a bit after roofs then finish left.

18 Sport 12m
3 Emu's Paradise

2m R of EE. Up the ledge and up wall above roof

FA: No Aid here.

19 Sport 12m, 3
4 * Budawang Barking Beetle

Up ramp corner system to ledge then thru roofs about a metre R of Emu's Paradise and up crack past ring at top (short draw or screwgate as it's a bit low) to an awkward topout.

18 Trad 12m
5 * Speed Zealot

FA: Greg Andrews; Dave Barnes

21 Sport 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 ** Gymea Lilly

At crack 1m right of SZ (behind the Gymea Lilly) below right end of high section.

Hard moves up crack to finish on ledge (old carrot and good cams). Please don't trash the Lilly.

14 Trad 8m
7 * Rod's Rodeo

Start about 3m R of Gymea Lilly. Up to U and past a tricky move R to a high 2nd bolt and finish on anchors shared with RAaR.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2005

21 Sport 6m, 2
8 * Ring around a Rod

Starts about 6m to the right of the 'Gymea Lilly' (Speed Zealot). Tricky start upto 1st bolt, then some beautiful moves past another bolt and another move upto the anchors.

Short and sweet. good climb. 2 UB to DUB Anchor

FA: Barnes

21 Sport 8m
9 * Rod Ramset and the American Eagles

9m right of the crack (Gymea Lilly). Friggen thin between 1st and 2nd bolts

22 Sport 8m
10 * Seams ok

Thin crack just left of The Whippet, start left of short wide crack and up, single ring lower off

FA: mikl law, 2014

22 Sport 7m, 3
11 The Whippet

Starts about 5m left of arete (HNiI). Streno start up wide crack then right 1m to nice snakey layback crack.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2005

21 Trad 8m
12 * Her Name is Iris

Below arete at right hand end of crag. Good moves past 3 FHs.

17 Sport 6m, 3
13 ** Jeff's Bulging Wall

About 2m R of 'Her name is Iris'. Up wall.

FA: Jeff Crass, 2014

19 Sport 7m, 2

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
14 ** Gymea Lilly Trad 8m
17 * Her Name is Iris Sport 6m, 3
18 * Budawang Barking Beetle Trad 12m
* Errant Edge Sport 12m
Let the Games Begin! Sport 14m
19 Emu's Paradise Sport 12m, 3
** Jeff's Bulging Wall Sport 7m, 2
21 * Ring around a Rod Sport 8m
* Rod's Rodeo Sport 6m, 2
* Speed Zealot Sport 15m
The Whippet Trad 8m
22 * Rod Ramset and the American Eagles Sport 8m
* Seams ok Sport 7m, 3