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Lucas Heights 10 routes in Area

  • Avg. Height: 13m
  • Style: Mostly Sport
  • Ascents: 16

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Description:

Some very angry Peregrine Falcons are nesting to the right of Interior Castle so please don't climb here until they leave of their accord.

An unsually tall cliff, 25m with good access but damp areas coupled with broken faces did not attract the crowds. The four metre roof, 'Where's Wally?' (25) established by Chris Wallace in the early 1990's is a feature of interst and so is Interior Castle (19). This crack and corner is clean and worth the effort. 'Forever is Hard to Imagine' (23) is not so bad and could do with being freed. Other than that, go to Barden's Ridge.

Access Issues: inherited from Sutherland

There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.

Approach:© (Zack)

To get to the crag, find Old 'Illawarra' Rd in 'Lucas Heights' and drive down it until you pass a school to the right. About 150m past this the road does a sharp turn to the left. Park on the right just before the turn then follow the right hand most fire trail along the ridge top past some old quarries. As the fire trail begins to disappear, descend steeply down to the left and then head right to the bottom of the cliff.

Ethic: inherited from Sutherland

There are no real ethics in Sydney, ethics were surrended to the Riobi and Hilti crews in the 1990's. It is common that people retro-bolt. Places like Bonnet Bay, Wastelands and Heathcote being good examples. In recent times, old routes have been repeated and renamed at places which is a little dissapointing. It would be sad to see the crags grid locked with rings.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 * Nameless Faces

Up the corner and thin wall above, passing 3 FHs. To finish, move left to IC and continue up or down it.

Start: Below shallow corner in front of block.

FA: Chris Wallace, 1994

22
Sport 10m , 3
2 ** Interior Castle

Was originally a 2 pitch route but has since been retrobolted to be one. Stem up corner to first bolt, continue to ledge.

Stemming and laybacking (crux) through to second standing ledge.

Up corner past old second pitch chains. Continue up past roof to double bolt lower off about 2m back from cliff. careful with rope drag.

Start: Below the prominent corner, just before small overhanging section at about waste height.

FA: David Barnes, 1994

19
Sport 25m
3 Forever is Hard To Imagine

Follow line of sketchy rings to chain lower off. Careful on RBs, they are not welded.

Start: Below undercut wall about 5 metres left of IC.

FA: David Barnes, 1995

23 M1
Sport 20m , 5
4 Ode to a Nuclear Scientist

Great steep climbing which stays dry in almost any weather. Straightened out and easier version of Forever is Hard To Imagine. Two u-bolts up face to ledge. Swing left across horizontal then up juggy steep stuff to final roof move to clip anchor on lip.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

21
Sport 15m , 6
5 Party Rough Tongue

Up corner and slab (cams and BR)

Start: Below Corner

FA: David Barnes, 1994

15
Trad 7m
6 Atomic Thunderbuster

up nose to BRs

Start: as for PRT

FA: David Barnes, 1994

12
Sport 7m
7 Monkey Bar

Outrageous roof climbing. Short wall then out roof on big holds to catch the monkey bar jug in the lip. Finish up tricky slopes. All u-bolts apart from one FH in the roof.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

23
Sport 13m , 6
8 * Where's Wally?

The only route as yet to breach the chossy roof. Fixed hangers to lower offs

Start: Below roof, left of FiHtI

FA: unknown, 2000

25
Sport 10m , 3
9 * Vapour Trail

up slab (2 FHs, 2 RBs to chain)

Start: on slab above roof

FA: David Barnes, 1995

22
Sport 10m , 4
10 Yo! Don Bosco

Stick Clip 1 RB then up wall to lower offs. Reachy slab moves, hard finish over buldge to lower offs.

Start: far left hand end of main wall

FA: David Barnes, 1994

20
Sport 16m , 5