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Some very angry Peregrine Falcons are nesting to the right of Interior Castle so please don't climb here until they leave of their accord.
An unsually tall cliff, 25m with good access but damp areas coupled with broken faces did not attract the crowds. The four metre roof, 'Where's Wally?' (25) established by Chris Wallace in the early 1990's is a feature of interst and so is Interior Castle (19). This crack and corner is clean and worth the effort. 'Forever is Hard to Imagine' (23) is not so bad and could do with being freed. Other than that, go to Barden's Ridge.
Access issues inherited from Sutherland
There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.
To get to the crag, find Old 'Illawarra' Rd in 'Lucas Heights' and drive down it until you pass a school to the right. About 150m past this the road does a sharp turn to the left. Park on the right just before the turn then follow the right hand most fire trail along the ridge top past some old quarries. As the fire trail begins to disappear, descend steeply down to the left and then head right to the bottom of the cliff.
Ethic inherited from Sutherland
There are no real ethics in Sydney, ethics were surrended to the Riobi and Hilti crews in the 1990's. It is common that people retro-bolt. Places like Bonnet Bay, Wastelands and Heathcote being good examples. In recent times, old routes have been repeated and renamed at places which is a little dissapointing. It would be sad to see the crags grid locked with rings.
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