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The Wastelands 73 routes in Area

  • Avg. Height: 9m
  • Style: ?,Sport and Trad
  • Favorites: 1
  • Ascents: 318
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Description:

This crag has some great suburban climbing and Rainbow Wall remains a great place to test your skills. I really like routes on the Vertex but they may need some cleaning these days. My favourite climb here remains, Plummit Earth Eats Worms.

Access Issues: inherited from Sutherland

There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.

Approach:© (bundybear)

To get there:

  1. Turn off Princes Hwy at Anzac Ave, Engadine.

  2. Continue along Anzac Ave and turn right into Woronora Road

  3. Turn left at Buckle Ave

  4. Continue along into Mountain St

  5. Turn left into Ardua Place and park near the end.

  6. There is a lane way between the houses, walk down this and then head left and decend down the hill

  7. Scamble down the cliff in the corner near big tree and "Year 7 Girl".

Ethic: inherited from Sutherland

There are no real ethics in Sydney, ethics were surrended to the Riobi and Hilti crews in the 1990's. It is common that people retro-bolt. Places like Bonnet Bay, Wastelands and Heathcote being good examples. In recent times, old routes have been repeated and renamed at places which is a little dissapointing. It would be sad to see the crags grid locked with rings.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Kon Bon Wa
20
Unknown 8m
2 * Asking for Action
16
Sport 8m
3 King Kong's Bum
14
Unknown 10m
4 * Breathless
20
Unknown 15m
5 Cringing Dinosaurs
21
Unknown 15m
6 * Stormy Rocks

A good climb that needs some traffic. After some thin moves at the start you get to do some great moves in the middle with the bolts just where you need them. DBB

FA: David Barnes,

20
Sport 15m
7 Slabathon

FA: Dave Barnes,

24
Unknown 15m
8 * Jeopardy
24
Unknown 14m
9 Pandora's Pillar
12
Sport 6m
10 I'd Rather Be Climbin'
17
Unknown 8m
11 No Wasted Space
17
Unknown 15m
12 Alley Boys
20
Unknown 15m
13 Ocean of Wind
16
Sport 15m
14 Dodging the Elements
17
Sport 15m
15 * Weirding Way
17
Unknown 15m
16 Love Letters From Tasmania
15
Unknown 8m
17 Swimming in a Sea of Sand
15
Unknown 8m
18 * Plummet Earth Eats Worms

FA: Dave Barnes,

20
Unknown 9m
19 * Avian Avarice
19
Unknown 8m
20 A
20
Unknown 5m
21 To Catch a Thief
19
Unknown 6m
22 * Eat More Onions
20
Sport 6m
23 El Crapo
17
Unknown 6m
24 Sabrina
16
Unknown 7m
25 * Vengeance
18
Unknown 7m
26 * Highway Neanderthal

FA: David Barnes,

15
Unknown 7m
27 Faith
13
Unknown 9m
28 Psychedelic Nightmare
14
Unknown 7m
29 Ordinary People
18
Unknown 7m
30 Temporary Insanity
14
Unknown 7m
31 NFI Crack
6
Unknown 6m
32 * Slave to the Crank
25
Sport 7m
33 * Cranky Jaws
19
Unknown 7m
34 Galactic Crack
12
Unknown 6m
35 Dildo Comes Again
12
Unknown 5m
36 I'm On Fire
16
Sport 7m
37 Pyro Monkey
15
Unknown 7m
38 * Dancing With Dolphins
18
Unknown 9m
39 Wicked Ticket
20
Unknown 9m
40 Pot of Gold
15
Unknown 9m
41 * Conan and the Gonad Cruncher
15
Sport 9m
42 Sweet Red Wine
22
Unknown 8m
43 * Fatboy Thin

Same as 'Fatboy', but without using the chipped hold for hands or feet.

FA: Same as Fatboy but aviods the Chipped hold.,

23
Sport 10m
44 * Fatboy

Up crack then blast straight up past RBs to chain lower off. It has a chipped hold than can be avioided. Tricky between 1st and 2nd bolts. Rebolted 2006

FA: David Barnes, 1991

20
Sport 10m
45 Get It On

4m to the right of DT, climb up face, without using any of the holds on DT. At 2nd RB move to the right and up to shared chain with 'Fatboy'. Rebolted 2006

FA: M. Fonda, 1993

17
Sport 8m
46 * Dave's Toaster

The obvious corner system, with bomber gear - was originally marked DT. The first completed climb at Rainbow.

FFA: ,

FA: Hardy Bros, 1980

17
Trad 8m
47 Contrived Pate

Start below flakes left of DT. 2 bolts, and topout.

FA: Chris Wallace, 1993

20
Trad 8m
48 * Bolting Blues

A young Graham Fairburn put htos up in June, 1990. There was a TCU in the first and last break which made it more exciting than now but still, a great technical bit of face climbing.

FA: Graham Fairburn, 1990

24
Sport 8m
49 ** Room With a View

Just to the right of COtC. A ripper of all wall climb with a stingy tail. 3 Us to DBB lower off shared with BB. Rebolted 2006

FA: David Barnes,

22
Sport 8m
50 * Check Out the Chicken

Start: 2m right of BE. Straight up wall under flake. 4 bolts to shared chain with BE. Rebolted 2006

FA: David Barnes, 1990

22
Sport 8m
51 ** Billy's England

Just to the right of H&HR, Balancey start leads to reachy moves upto break. Then up to big reach move, to chain lower off shared with COtC. Classic climbing with new bolts.

FA: Dave Barnes,

23
Sport 8m
52 * Hip and Hunky Rhythm

Start: 2m left of BE. Blast straight up wall past

3 FHs to chain and U bolt lower off.

FA: Ben Pearce, 1994

24
Sport 8m
53 ** Sick Cows on Acid

Start: Behind block.

Superb rock. 4 BRs and positive ape factor.

FA: Ben Pearce, 1994

25
Sport 8m
54 Courting Notoriety

Start: Behind the block 2m left of SCoA.

Up the offwidth and flake above. The block is off limits. Place gear in top from block before you start to protect fall onto block. Ugly.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 1993

18
Trad 8m
55 * Love Mission

Start: Just right of big gum tree.

2 BRs and mid size cam. Great Climbing.

FA: David Barnes, 1991

20
Trad 7m
56 * Poetic Licence

This route is more of a boulder problem with a couple of BR;s. However it is on very nice rock and has one of the greatest dino's to reach the top break, around. If ypou are down this way have a go, I would love to know what you think? It deserves some traffic.

FA: ,

23
Trad 7m
57 Year Seven Girl

Up flakes with no pro (top rope recommended).

FA: Gary Hardy, Mark Hardy, 1980

20
Trad 6m
58 B
?(S)
Sport 10m
59 Mulch Mattress
17
Unknown 10m
60 * Flight of the Fanciful
21
Unknown 10m
61 * Yosemite Sam
17
Unknown 10m
62 * Finger Lickin' Good
20
Sport 10m
63 Snowbound
15
Unknown 9m
64 * Direct Door
21
Unknown 9m
65 * Emma Loves Artichokes
22
Unknown 8m
66 Mortal Sin
20
Unknown 8m
67 Spasticosis
7
Unknown 7m
68 Nancyboy
18
Sport 7m
69 * Cream
19
Sport 8m
70 * Who's the Joker
18
Sport 8m
71 Cowboy Caviar
15
Sport 6m
72 * Billy McDougall

As for for BE, but pike out of last direct move and move right and clip the last bolt on COtC and up to anchors.

22
Sport 9m
73 Hot Chips and Sauce

The 'Steep' climb between Bumbly Buttress 'Right Side' and 'Rainbow Wall' 'Main Area'. Up corner wall past FH to Bolt, then over buldge and up steep head wall past chips to chain.

Sport 10m
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