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Description

This crag houses a dozen easy beginner routes you do not have to die for. A pleasant location and a couple of really nice things makes this a good spot for the bumbly.

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.

Approach

located down in royal national park directly in line with cardiff street. cross railway line and head down goarra ridge firetrail, turn left after 100m down firetrail running parralel to railway line, follow this for roughly 200m to find the crag just on left.

© (glenn_9)

Ethic inherited from Sutherland

There are no real ethics in Sydney, ethics were surrended to the Riobi and Hilti crews in the 1990's. It is common that people retro-bolt. Places like Bonnet Bay, Wastelands and Heathcote being good examples. In recent times, old routes have been repeated and renamed at places which is a little dissapointing. It would be sad to see the crags grid locked with rings.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
20 * Monkey Madness Sport 6m, 2

start: under the roof.

A good thrash through the roof.

FA: david barnes, 1989

2
21 * April Sun Sport 5m, 2

left of mm.

heads through small roof.

FA: david barnes, 1989

3
21 Smirnoff Sport 5m, 2

Start: left of A.S

FA: Z. mann, 1989

4
18 Fungus Cruncher Sport 6m

Start: as for S.

Heads left around the overhangs. 2 B.Rs

FA: David Barnes, 1989

5
16 * Hey Cornflake Sport 4m

Start: Left of F.C.

FA: A.Le Gras, 1989

6
15 Mahamic Destruction Sport 8m, 2

Start: at right hand end of main wall.

FA: Shae Constantine, 1989

7

Start: left of M.D.

Directly up to horizontal break on B.F

FA: S. Pierce, 1988

8
13 * Beginner's Flight Trad 10m

Start: at crack.

Up crCK Then right to break and up.

FA: David Barnes, 1988

9
15 * Make or Break Sport 11m, 2

Start: As for B.F.

Continue straight up above crack

FA: David Barnes, 1988

10
19 * Grim Reaper Sport 10m, 2

Start: Left of M.O.B

FA: David Barnes, 1989

11
17 Iron Balls Sport 12m

Start: as for I.E.

Traverse. from 1st B.R head right to M.O.B then up

FA: Shae Constantine, 1989

12
16 ** Incredible Egg Sport 10m, 2

Start: Below the orange streak.Excellent for the grade. Direct line passing 2 b.rs and small cams.

FA:

13
17 * Metropolis Trad 10m

Start: left of I.E.

FA: David Barnes, 1989

14
17 Lemon Curry Trad 13m

Start: as for F.P.

Traverse. up crack then right to M.D and up.

FA: Shae Constantine, 1989

15
13 Mark's Blunder Trad 15m

Start: As for F.P.

Higher level traverse. Up F.P to top then traverse right on jugs.

FA: M. Le Gras, 1988

16
16 ** Full Pants Trad 10m

Start: below obvious crack through overhang.

Up the crack then through the overhang.

FA: M. Le Gras, 1988

17
19 * Ripper Rita Mixed 10m, 1

Start: Left 'Arete'. Cams and B.R

FA: David Barnes, 1989

18
13 Holocaust Trad 8m

Start: Left of R.R.

Up the wall through the overhang.

Take a largish cam. Take care- this climb has dealt a number of ground falls.

FA: David Barnes, 1988

19
16 Dragnet Trad 15m

Start: as for H.

Traverse. Up to ledge then head right to M.O.B.

FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989