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Description

This crag houses a dozen easy beginner routes you do not have to die for. A pleasant location and a couple of really nice things makes this a good spot for the bumbly.

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Approach

located down in royal national park directly in line with cardiff street. cross railway line and head down goarra ridge firetrail, turn left after 100m down firetrail running parralel to railway line, follow this for roughly 200m to find the crag just on left.

© (glenn_9)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 Monkey Madness Sport 6m, 2

start: under the roof.

A good thrash through the roof.

FA: david barnes, 1989

2
21 * April Sun Sport 5m, 2

left of mm.

heads through small roof.

FA: david barnes, 1989

3
21 Smirnoff Sport 5m, 2

Start: left of A.S

FA: Z. mann, 1989

4
18 Fungus Cruncher Sport 6m

Start: as for S.

Heads left around the overhangs. 2 B.Rs

FA: David Barnes, 1989

5
16 * Hey Cornflake Sport 4m

Start: Left of F.C.

FA: A.Le Gras, 1989

6
15 Mahamic Destruction Sport 8m, 2

Start: at right hand end of main wall.

FA: Shae Constantine, 1989

7

Start: left of M.D.

Directly up to horizontal break on B.F

FA: S. Pierce, 1988

8
13 Beginner's Flight Trad 10m

Start: at crack.

Up crCK Then right to break and up.

FA: David Barnes, 1988

9
15 Make or Break Sport 11m, 2

Start: As for B.F.

Continue straight up above crack

FA: David Barnes, 1988

10
19 * Grim Reaper Sport 10m, 2

Start: Left of M.O.B

FA: David Barnes, 1989

11
17 Iron Balls Sport 12m

Start: as for I.E.

Traverse. from 1st B.R head right to M.O.B then up

FA: Shae Constantine, 1989

12
16 * Incredible Egg Sport 10m, 2

Start: Below the orange streak.Excellent for the grade. Direct line passing 2 b.rs and small cams.

FA:

13
17 * Metropolis Trad 10m

Start: left of I.E.

FA: David Barnes, 1989

14
17 Lemon Curry Trad 13m

Start: as for F.P.

Traverse. up crack then right to M.D and up.

FA: Shae Constantine, 1989

15
13 Mark's Blunder Trad 15m

Start: As for F.P.

Higher level traverse. Up F.P to top then traverse right on jugs.

FA: M. Le Gras, 1988

16
16 * Full Pants Trad 10m

Start: below obvious crack through overhang.

Up the crack then through the overhang.

FA: M. Le Gras, 1988

17
19 * Ripper Rita Mixed 10m, 1

Start: Left 'Arete'. Cams and B.R

FA: David Barnes, 1989

18
13 Holocaust Trad 8m

Start: Left of R.R.

Up the wall through the overhang.

Take a largish cam. Take care- this climb has dealt a number of ground falls.

FA: David Barnes, 1988

19
16 Dragnet Trad 15m

Start: as for H.

Traverse. Up to ledge then head right to M.O.B.

FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989

Activity

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