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Description

A mighty little crag housing some steep Sydney classics. Sandstone, easy access, snakes and ladders, there is much here to keep a smile on your dile. The cliff was descovered by Alan Smith but it was Dave Barnes who did the work in the early 1990's. His routes include 'Gate Keeper' (23) the mega classic, 'Ruthless Babe' (22), 'Bitch'n' (23), 'Welcome to the Body Shop' (21), 'Meltdown' (19) and 'Sparky' (16). Other climbers filled in the gaps and what is left is a dozen pumpy numbers. Beware of the summer snakes in the break of Bitch'n and mindfull of the neighbours at the cliff top, it's their backyard.

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.

Approach

To get there, find 'Bluebell' Rd, Heathcote, and park at the end. Hop the gate onto the fire trail and follow it around to the left (behind the houses). The crag is located directly below these houses - continue walking for 50m until you are level with a wooden retaining wall of the last house, - you can scramble down to the base of the cliff on an obvious track, .

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
Jeff Smeg-a-Slab Project Sport Project 6m

Right line on grey slab

Set by Jeff Crass, 2015

2
18 * Jeff's Mega Slab Sport 6m, 2

On first wall you walk past, up the middle of the grey slab.

FA: Jeff Crass, 5th Aug

3
10 to 11 Duncan Sport 7m, 2

Start left of small corner. Up over a small bulge and veer to the right. 2 RB to Lower Offs. (Can start on right and climb up to 2nd bolt, easier but less pro).

FA: bundy, 2006

4
19 Zara Sport 7m, 1

Start 2m right of 'Anika'. 1 high RB (stick clip) to shared lower off with 'Anika'. A hold has broken on the start which has raised the grade from 14.

FA: bundy, 2006

5
16 Anika Sport 8m, 2

The left most route with two ring bolts. Tricky move past 1st RB then nice wall to lower offs.

FA: bundy, 2006

6
16 Nathan Sport 9m, 3

The girdle traverse route. Start at 'Anika' and move across and up bast bolts on Zara and Duncan to finish on anchors as for Duncan.

FA: bundy, 2006

7

Rebolted with real glue. A wall past a few steep moves. Go left to shared lower off with Travolta.

8
21 * Travolta Sport 8m

Up Al's Nightmare and finish right with a big move to flake (jug further right on Trust me I used Araldite is definitely off). Shared loweroff with Trust me etc

FA: Michael Law, 2015

9
Al's Nightmare Sport 8m

One really long move up the top. Although this has two ticks on this website some people reckon this is impossible. Carrots bolts.

Set by Al

10
18 Heathcote Homo Sport 10m, 3

Start 3m right of SC. Up past 2 BRs to RB, funky move out left to gain anchors shared with Screaming Cockatoos.

FA: Bundy, 2008

11
18 Screaming Cockatoos Sport 10m

Shared start with Sparky, up flake and drift right past a few more bolts to shared lower off with HH. Reachy at the top.

FA: Shano, 1992

12
16 * Sparky Sport 10m

Up flake (RB), head left then steeply up past 2 FHs. 'Fantastic' Climbing. New Lower offs installed.

FA: Dave Barnes, 1992

13
19 * Meltdown Sport 10m

Nice climbing with some big reaches Shared Lower Off with Sparky.

14
20 to 22 ** 97% McDougall Free Sport 12m

The direct line just left of 'Meltdown'. Go direct all the way. Stay out of out of the corner at the start, and stay direct at the hard finish. Only 20 if you start up 'Meltdown'.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2006

15

Best 21 in Sydney. Nice and pumpy on big holds. Rebolted 2008

FA: Dave Barnes, 1992

16
23 ** Bitch'n Sport 12m

Start 2 m right of the little tree, and just left of a block. Nice and 'Steep', Delicate over the bulge and then get on trucken to the end. Move L to anchors as for Ruthless Babe. Rebolted 14/07/2015.

FA: Dave Barnes, 1993

17
23 ** Frustration Index Sport 10m, 6

More Moves! A bit more streno than the other 23s here. Start 1m left of Bitch'n, up to huge dyno off gym hold to top. Done earlier off bolts on neighbouring routes by Stu Simons. The non-plastic finish is asn open proj

FA: Michael Law, 2015

18

Linkup Start as for 'Ruthless Babe', then side pull out to clip RB on right. Straight up from here, delicate traverse into Bitch'n do the crux on Bitch'n. Then move up and to the right past another RB. Straight up above last RB and finish sportingly to new anchors on Body Shop. A Pumper !

FA: Jason Lammers, 2006

19
23 *** Ruthless Babe Sport 12m

Mega. Start 2m L of Bitchin

FA: David Barnes, 1992

20
23 ** Gatekeeper Sport 15m

Linkup. Climb up RB past the 1st 2 bolts. Then great hand traverse under the roof. Finish up DBoM.

FA: Dave Barnes, 1992

21
23 ** Ruthless Shop Sport 16m

Another linkup. Real Estate is precious at the Bell. Start up RB and do the crux thru the roof. Stand up and clip the next ring with a long sling, then great balancey moves across the head wall to the anchors on WttBS.

FA: Its a Link Up, 2000

22
26 *** Guerilla Radio Sport 16m

start up DBOM and do crux, Traverse on slopey break, clip 5th bolt of Gatekeeper and do Crux, traverse right and do top crux for Ruthless Babe. traverse into bolts for Bundy in a bottle shop and finish on anchors for welcome to the body shop.

Basically links all the best and hardest routes at blue bell in a rising traverse, left to righ!

FA: Linkup., 2008

23

Recently rebolted on nice shiney U's. A Sydney Classic on great rock. Start about 3m L of the little tree. Head right thru scoop, originally finished up little corner, but now heads further r on jugs thru roof as for Gatekeeper

FA: Mikl, 1992

24
Bundy - Project Sport Project 15m

Tried to get someone to bolt this for years, but no takers - Start as DBOM, climb thru the crux. Then directly up past 3 new RB's and thru the final roof to lower off. Please stay off !!

Set by Jason Lammers

25
23 Divine Intervention Sport 15m

Climb FK, past crux and 3 U bolt, then move right clipping 3 more carrots on the way. DBB Lower Off

26
23 ** Flying Kites Sport 15m

Nice and Pumpy. Up arete past 5 U bolts, then move right to shared lower offs.

FA: G Morton, 2000

27
24 ** Heel and Toe Polka Sport 15m

Climb FK to 2nd bolt and then big move left and clip U bolt, then up and thru roof to lower off. Plenty of heel hooking and toe locks.

FA: Bundy, 2006

28
18 Lobotomised Trad 15m

There are a few random bolts up there, looks a bit dirty tho.

FA: Chris Wallace, 1992

Open trips

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