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Description

A mighty little crag housing some steep Sydney classics. Sandstone, easy access, snakes and ladders, there is much here to keep a smile on your dile. The cliff was descovered by Alan Smith but it was Dave Barnes who did the work in the early 1990's. His routes include 'Gate Keeper' (23) the mega classic, 'Ruthless Babe' (22), 'Bitch'n' (23), 'Welcome to the Body Shop' (21), 'Meltdown' (19) and 'Sparky' (16). Other climbers filled in the gaps and what is left is a dozen pumpy numbers. Beware of the summer snakes in the break of Bitch'n and mindfull of the neighbours at the cliff top, it's their backyard.

Approach

To get there, find 'Bluebell' Rd, Heathcote, and park at the end. Hop the gate onto the fire trail and follow it around to the left (behind the houses). The crag is located directly below these houses - continue walking for 50m until you can scramble down to the base of the cliff on an obvious track.

The cliff faces basically west, so it's perfect on sunny winter's days, but is a bit of an oven during summer. The steepest section tends to seep a bit after rain.

Climbs described south to north (right to left, facing the cliff).

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
16 Nathan Sport 9m, 3

The girdle traverse route. Start at 'Anika' and move across and up bast bolts on Zara and Duncan to finish on anchors as for Duncan.

FA: bundy, 2006

2
10 Duncan DS Sport 6m, 1

Climb the short orange wall. 1 RB to lower off.

FA: bundy, 2006

3
11 Duncan Sport 7m, 2

Start left of small corner. Up over a small bulge and veer to the right. 2 RB to Lower Offs.

FA: bundy, 2006

4
14 Zara Sport 7m, 1

Start 2m right of 'Anika'. 1 high RB (stick clip) to shared lower off with 'Anika'.

FA: bundy, 2006

5
16 Anika Sport 8m, 2

The left most route with two ring bolts. Tricky move past 1st RB then nice wall to lower offs.

FA: bundy, 2006

6

Short and crap. Not well bolted, you could deck if you miss the 2nd bolt, so you might at well solo it.

7
22 Al's Nightmare Sport 8m

??? Has this been climbed ??

8
18 Heathcote Homo Sport 10m, 3

Start 3m right of SC. Up past 2 BRs to RB, funky move to gain anchors.

FA: Bundy, 2008

9
18 Screaming Cockatoos Sport 10m

Shared start with S, up flake and drift right past a few more bolts to shared lower off with HH. Hard for 18

FA: Shano, 1992

10
16 * Sparky Sport 10m

Up flake (RB), head left then steeply up past 2 FHs. 'Fantastic' Climbing. New Lower offs installed.

FA: Dave Barnes, 1992

11
19 * Meltdown Sport 10m

Rebolted, now with Lower Offs. The dodgy bolts have been replaced. Shared Lower Off with S.

13
22 ** 97% McDougall Free Sport 12m

The direct line just left of 'Meltdown'. Stay out of the corner at the start. 4 RB to lower off. Good bargin shopping at 22, could be 21.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2006

14

Best 21 in Sydney. Nice and pumpy on big holds. Rebolted 2008

FA: Dave Barnes, 1992

15
23 ** Bitch'n Sport 12m

Nice and 'Steep', Delicate over the bulge and then get on trucken to the end.

FA: Dave Barnes, 1993

16

Start as for 'Ruthless Babe', then side pull out to clip RB on right. Straight up from here, delicate traverse into Bitch'n do the crux on Bitch'n. Then move up and to the right past another RB. Straight up above last RB and finish sportingly to new anchors on Body Shop. A Pumper !

FA: Jason Lammers, 2006

17
23 *** Ruthless Babe Sport 12m

Mega

FA: David Barnes, 1992

18
23 ** Gatekeeper Sport 15m

Climb up RB past the 1st 2 bolts. Then great hand traverse under the roof. Finish up DBoM.

FA: Dave Barnes, 1992

19
23 ** Ruthless Shop Sport 16m

Another linkup. Real Estate is precious at the Bell. Start up RB and do the crux thru the roof. Stand up and clip the next ring with a long sling, then great balancey moves across the head wall to the anchors on WttBS.

FA: Its a Link Up, 2000

20

as for ruthless babe, but finish right up on meltdown anchors

FA: Adam Bramwell, 2008

21
26 *** Guerilla Radio Sport 16m

start up DBOM and do crux, Traverse on slopey break, clip 5th bolt of Gatekeeper and do Crux, traverse right and do top crux for Ruthless Babe. traverse into bolts for Bundy in a bottle shop and finish on anchors for welcome to the body shop.

Basically links all the best and hardest routes at blue bell in a rising traverse, left to righ!

FA: Linkup., 2008

22

Recently rebolted on nice shiney U's. A Sydney Classic on great rock.

FA: Mikl, 1992

23
23 Divine Intervention Sport 15m

Climb FK, past crux and 3 U bolt, then move right clipping 3 more carrots on the way. DBB Lower Off

24
23 ** Flying Kites Sport 15m

Nice and Pumpy. Up arete past 4 U bolts.

FA: G Morton, 2000

25
24 ** Heel and Toe Polka Sport 15m

Climb FK to 2nd bolt and then big move and clip U bolt on left, then up to carrot and thru roof, clip another U bolt, then top out. DBB Lower Off. Plenty of heel hooking and toe locks.

FA: Bundy

26
18 Lobotomised Trad 15m

FA: Chris Wallace, 1992

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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