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Table of contents

1. Bluebell 25 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 151.002432, -34.079551


A mighty little crag housing some steep Sydney classics. Sandstone, easy access, snakes and ladders, there is much here to keep a smile on your dile. The cliff was descovered by Alan Smith but it was Dave Barnes who did the work in the early 1990's. His routes include 'Gate Keeper' (23) the mega classic, 'Ruthless Babe' (22), 'Bitch'n' (23), 'Welcome to the Body Shop' (21), 'Meltdown' (19) and 'Sparky' (16). Other climbers filled in the gaps and what is left is a dozen pumpy numbers. Beware of the summer snakes in the break of Bitch'n and mindfull of the neighbours at the cliff top, it's their backyard.

Access Issues: inherited from Sutherland

There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.

Approach:© (secretary)

To get there, find 'Bluebell' Rd, Heathcote, and park at the end. Hop the gate onto the fire trail and follow it around to the left (behind the houses). The crag is located directly below these houses - continue walking for 50m until you can scramble down to the base of the cliff on an obvious track.

The cliff faces basically west, so it's perfect on sunny winter's days, but is a bit of an oven during summer. The steepest section tends to seep a bit after rain.

Climbs described south to north (right to left, facing the cliff).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Nathan

The girdle traverse route. Start at 'Anika' and move across and up bast bolts on Zara and Duncan to finish on anchors as for Duncan.

FA: bundy, 2006

16 Sport 9m, 3
2 Duncan DS

Climb the short orange wall. 1 RB to lower off.

FA: bundy, 2006

10 Sport 6m, 1
3 Duncan

Start left of small corner. Up over a small bulge and veer to the right. 2 RB to Lower Offs.

FA: bundy, 2006

11 Sport 7m, 2
4 Zara

Start 2m right of 'Anika'. 1 high RB (stick clip) to shared lower off with 'Anika'.

FA: bundy, 2006

14 Sport 7m, 1
5 Anika

The left most route with two ring bolts. Tricky move past 1st RB then nice wall to lower offs.

FA: bundy, 2006

16 Sport 8m, 2
6 Trust Me I Used Araldite

Short and crap. Not well bolted, you could deck if you miss the 2nd bolt, so you might at well solo it.

15 Sport 7m
7 Al's Nightmare

??? Has this been climbed ??

22 Sport 8m
8 Heathcote Homo

Start 3m right of SC. Up past 2 BRs to RB, funky move to gain anchors.

FA: Bundy, 2008

18 Sport 10m, 3
9 Screaming Cockatoos

Shared start with S, up flake and drift right past a few more bolts to shared lower off with HH. Hard for 18

FA: Shano, 1992

18 Sport 10m
10 * Sparky

Up flake (RB), head left then steeply up past 2 FHs. 'Fantastic' Climbing. New Lower offs installed.

FA: Dave Barnes, 1992

16 Sport 10m
11 * Meltdown

Rebolted, now with Lower Offs. The dodgy bolts have been replaced. Shared Lower Off with S.

19 Sport 10m
12 97% McDougall Free - Corner Start 20 Unknown 12m
13 ** 97% McDougall Free

The direct line just left of 'Meltdown'. Stay out of the corner at the start. 4 RB to lower off. Good bargin shopping at 22, could be 21.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2006

22 Sport 12m
14 *** Welcome to the Body Shop

Best 21 in Sydney. Nice and pumpy on big holds. Rebolted 2008

FA: Dave Barnes, 1992

21 Sport 12m
15 ** Bitch'n

Currently Missing 3rd bolt, will deck if you fall between 2nd and now 3rd (but usually 4th) bolt. ALL bolts should be considered dangerous on this route - if one has fallen out the others are probably quick to follow. Needs a full rebolt. Please be careful!

Nice and 'Steep', Delicate over the bulge and then get on trucken to the end.

FA: Dave Barnes, 1993

23 Sport 12m
16 *** Bundy in a Bottle Shop

Start as for 'Ruthless Babe', then side pull out to clip RB on right. Straight up from here, delicate traverse into Bitch'n do the crux on Bitch'n. Then move up and to the right past another RB. Straight up above last RB and finish sportingly to new anchors on Body Shop. A Pumper !

FA: Jason Lammers, 2006

23 Sport 18m
17 *** Ruthless Babe


FA: David Barnes, 1992

23 Sport 12m
18 ** Gatekeeper

Climb up RB past the 1st 2 bolts. Then great hand traverse under the roof. Finish up DBoM.

FA: Dave Barnes, 1992

23 Sport 15m
19 ** Ruthless Shop

Another linkup. Real Estate is precious at the Bell. Start up RB and do the crux thru the roof. Stand up and clip the next ring with a long sling, then great balancey moves across the head wall to the anchors on WttBS.

FA: Its a Link Up, 2000

23 Sport 16m
20 *** Guerilla Radio

start up DBOM and do crux, Traverse on slopey break, clip 5th bolt of Gatekeeper and do Crux, traverse right and do top crux for Ruthless Babe. traverse into bolts for Bundy in a bottle shop and finish on anchors for welcome to the body shop.

Basically links all the best and hardest routes at blue bell in a rising traverse, left to righ!

FA: Linkup., 2008

26 Sport 16m
21 ** Darling Buds of Mayhem

Recently rebolted on nice shiney U's. A Sydney Classic on great rock.

FA: Mikl, 1992

25 Sport 15m
22 Divine Intervention

Climb FK, past crux and 3 U bolt, then move right clipping 3 more carrots on the way. DBB Lower Off

23 Sport 15m
23 ** Flying Kites

Nice and Pumpy. Up arete past 4 U bolts.

FA: G Morton, 2000

23 Sport 15m
24 ** Heel and Toe Polka

Climb FK to 2nd bolt and then big move and clip U bolt on left, then up to carrot and thru roof, clip another U bolt, then top out. DBB Lower Off. Plenty of heel hooking and toe locks.

FA: Bundy

24 Sport 15m
25 Lobotomised

FA: Chris Wallace, 1992

18 Trad 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
10 Duncan DS Sport 6m, 1
11 Duncan Sport 7m, 2
14 Zara Sport 7m, 1
15 Trust Me I Used Araldite Sport 7m
16 Anika Sport 8m, 2
Nathan Sport 9m, 3
* Sparky Sport 10m
18 Heathcote Homo Sport 10m, 3
Lobotomised Trad 15m
Screaming Cockatoos Sport 10m
19 * Meltdown Sport 10m
20 97% McDougall Free - Corner Start Unknown 12m
21 *** Welcome to the Body Shop Sport 12m
22 ** 97% McDougall Free Sport 12m
Al's Nightmare Sport 8m
23 ** Bitch'n Sport 12m
*** Bundy in a Bottle Shop Sport 18m
Divine Intervention Sport 15m
** Flying Kites Sport 15m
** Gatekeeper Sport 15m
*** Ruthless Babe Sport 12m
** Ruthless Shop Sport 16m
24 ** Heel and Toe Polka Sport 15m
25 ** Darling Buds of Mayhem Sport 15m
26 *** Guerilla Radio Sport 16m