The Villas All bouldering43 routes in crag
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The most extensive of all the Sutherland crags. The jewel in the crown is the Villas cave, however there is some great bouldering on the surrounding cliffline. Crag classics; 'Boobs', 'Burgers', Savage and of course 'Contact' - Australia's first V12.
(Reference-Sydney Bouldering (Peter Balint) & australianbouldering.com (Tim O'Neill)© (secretary)
Access issues inherited from Sutherland
There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.
Park at the start of Rata Place, Sutherland, where the big green pipe crosses under the road. Follow the pipe leftwards for about 75m, then drop off right towards the river into the jumbled rocks. After about 15m, you'll be on a vague terrace, head left for 10m for the 'Cops Are Tops Cave', otherwise continue down the dodgy descent for another 30m. The first problems described are about 25m right along the cliff line, next to the exposed pipes. 'The Villas' cave is about 35m in the other direction.
'The Villas' cave gets the shade in the morning.© (secretary)
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
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