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Description

A splended array of small cliffs and buttresses right near the Woronora River. Flat landings, nice easy to moderate problems. Fun for the whole family and/or a great place to warm up before hitting the harder crags of the area. Each section of the cliff now has a single ring bolt for a Top Rope set up and is great for the little kids.

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Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Approach

Off River road, turn into Prince Edward Park road, follow it along 900m past a small feature in the middle of the road and park in the obvious parking area on the right side of the road. The boulders are just over the grassy mound near the river.

© (secretary)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

Nice wall behind twin gums 30m R of the main area, traverse R to L staying below top.

2
V5 ** I Fish and I Vote Boulder 3m

Start on right boulder by the water, below Young and Restless. After a low start on the arete, go straight up and over.

3
V4 ** I'd Rather Be Fishing Boulder 3m

Sit start of the left boulder at flake, 1.5m R of IF+IV

4

Avoid matching and moving L by means of a dyno straight to the top.

5
V5 My Fingers Hurt Boulder 2m

One mover from pockets.

6

One move from pockets.

7
V1 * Wombat Lover Boulder 4m
9
V0 Mmm...Jugs... Boulder 4m
10
V0 * Slab of Death Boulder 5m
11
V1 * Continuous Playback Boulder 4m
12
V7 *** Flying Fish Boulder 4m

RH in the pocket 0.5 metres R of Let's Make Love. Go for the top with LH. Arete is off.

FA: Joe Hodgson

13
V2 * Let's Make Love Boulder 4m
14
V0 * Bimbo Jimbo Boulder 4m
15
V0 * Himbo Jimbo Boulder 4m
16
V4 * No Fat Boys Boulder 4m

There used to be a lovely flake up the arete, but someone didn't glue it.

17
V0 Mighty Midgets Boulder 4m
18
V4 * Express Boulder 4m

committing and dirty top out

19
V0- * Stemway to heaven Boulder 4m

Behind the big tree, bridge your way up between Love Machine and Express.

20
V2 ** Love Machine Boulder 4m

Cute juggy arete behind big tree

21
V4 ** Fun Bags Boulder 5m

Committing top out

22
V5 *** Fun Bags Eliminate Boulder 5m

Narrow line eliminating sidepull on L & holds on R. Sloper for R then stick big sloper with L.

23
V4 ** Tricky Traverse Boulder 12m

start as for Fun Bags and traverse left the whole face to finish up Bat Cave. Crux is on the blunt arete.

FA: David O'Donnell

24
V3 ** Midline Boulder 4m

Straight up the middle of the block, start just left of the yellow streak. Optional sit start adds 2 moves.

25
V0 ** Knockers Boulder 5m
26
V0 * Hooters Boulder 5m
27
V3 * Melons Boulder 4m
28
V0 * Money Box Boulder 4m
29
V0 * Plumbers Crack Boulder 4m
30
V0 * Coin Slot Boulder 4m
31
V3 ** flapping arete Boulder 5m

Start low just right of block

32
V3 ** Bat Cave Boulder 10m

Pumpy traverse, start on block and finish up blunt arete

Activity

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