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Alfords Point Bouldering CLOSED All Bouldering

14 routes in crag
  • Grades: AU
  • Photos: 4
  • Ascents: 229
  • LOCKED: Only coodinators can edit

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Description

This area is CLOSED due to new restrictions imposed by the Sutherland Shire Council stating that " The features that make a good climbing crag are also the characteristics of a good Aboriginal shelter. A good shelter provides protection from the elements and is dry when it rains. A level earthen floor makes for a comfortable place to sleep. If the sandstone surfaces are hard and not crumbly then it will be more suitable for artwork and hand stencils."

This is the law, failure to follow these laws will only result in more crags being closed.

A great little overhang made of hard Sydney sandstone plus a couple of slabs in a nice bushland setting overlooking the Woronora River. 'Problems' here are long, pumpy with some interesting top outs, power endurance fitness required here. Home of 'Love Gun' (V10) - one of the best roof problems in Sydney. Recently featured on the bouldering DVD 24-8. The crag gets the morning shade.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Approach

Location: Find Stringybark Place in Alford's Point, and after about 50m park on the left near a group of boulders. Go down the hill with this feature on the left, after about 25m find a faint track that goes left and down, another 35m and a forked tree at a rough cliff line appears, go left along the cliff line and the sexy cave will appear.

© (secretary)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

1st problem in the cave.

Same start as Me

Start under the roof slighty left of the arete. Make a couple of big moves out past jug at the lip to base of the arete and then straight up where an amazingly huge 'thread' jug awaits.

Start Jetski Jerks & staying below the break & holds on break until into Love Gun & finish same as Love Gun. Pumpy.

FA: Damien Alexander, 2014

Crag Classic! Start on a jug at the back wall and move out the roof, along the sloping shelf and powerfully into the broken corner before heading left and straight up the groove to a thought provoking top-out.

Probably the best route of its grade in Sydney! Start right of Stringybark on little shelf left of the corner. crux at start using a undercling then climb through a variety of holds to a hard drive-by moving rightwards and then up into the back-breaking press into the roof and a quick campus through to top-out glory.

Standing start, straight into the back breaking press.

Excellent! Link the start of 'Love Gun' into the finish of 'Stringybark Massacre'. Good moves.

Link the Start of Stringybark into the 'Love Gun' finish. Hard!

Start on the shelf low and just right of the corner and make powerful move straight up to gain a good hold before taversing left and finishing up either 'Love Gun' or Stringybark. Pumpy and hard for the grade.

Same start as 'Humpathon' but from the good hold in the corner, traverse right to finish up backslam. Worthwhile.

Start in front of the black tree. Left then up.

Start right of the tree and climb the chossy wall on crimps and sidepulls.

Start 1m or so right of 'Lift Off' and climb the wall using the obvious pocket. Mossy and chossy.

Activity

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