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Description

A great little overhang made of hard Sydney sandstone plus a couple of slabs in a nice bushland setting overlooking the Woronora River. 'Problems' here are long, pumpy with some interesting top outs, power endurance fitness required here. Home of 'Love Gun' (V10) - one of the best roof problems in Sydney. Recently featured on the bouldering DVD 24-8. The crag gets the morning shade.

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Approach

Location: Find Stringybark Place in Alford's Point, and after about 50m park on the left near a group of boulders. Go down the hill with this feature on the left, after about 25m find a faint track that goes left and down, another 35m and a forked tree at a rough cliff line appears, go left along the cliff line and the sexy cave will appear.

© (secretary)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V3 * Me Boulder

1st problem in the cave.

2
V5 * Wet Pants Boulder

Same start as Me

3
V6 ** Jetski Jerks Boulder

Start under the roof slighty left of the arete. Make a couple of big moves out past jug at the lip to base of the arete and then straight up where an amazingly huge 'thread' jug awaits.

4

Crag Classic! Start on a jug at the back wall and move out the roof, along the sloping shelf and powerfully into the broken corner before heading left and straight up the groove to a thought provoking top-out.

5
V10 *** Love Gun Boulder

Probably the best route of its grade in Sydney! Start right of Stringybark on little shelf left of the corner. crux at start using a undercling then climb through a variety of holds to a hard drive-by moving rightwards and then up into the back-breaking press into the roof and a quick campus through to top-out glory.

6
V9 *** String 'Em Up Boulder

Excellent! Link the start of 'Love Gun' into the finish of 'Stringybark Massacre'. Good moves.

7
V8 ** Strung Out Boulder

Link the Start of Stringybark into the 'Love Gun' finish. Hard!

8
V7 Humpathon Boulder

Start on the shelf low and just right of the corner and make powerful move straight up to gain a good hold before taversing left and finishing up either 'Love Gun' or Stringybark. Pumpy and hard for the grade.

9
V5 R * Humpathon Direct Boulder

Same start as 'Humpathon' but from the good hold in the corner, traverse right to finish up backslam. Worthwhile.

10
V5 Back Slam Boulder
11
V2 Lift Off Boulder

Start right of the tree and climb the chossy wall on crimps and sidepulls.

12
V2 Reward Boulder

Start 1m or so right of 'Lift Off' and climb the wall using the obvious pocket. Mossy and chossy.

13

Standing start, straight into the back breaking press.

Open trips

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