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Description

Steep cave climbing with a surprising amount of top outs.

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.

Approach

Park in Treloar Place, Menai at the first gated fire trail which leads down the hill - not the one next to the scout hall! Follow the fire trail down to the creek, then follow the creek to the right (downstream) on the opposite side. There is a path that leads you in to the left end of the cave.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V2 Pussy Whipped Boulder 2m

Sit start below the rooflet on right facing horn. Don't forget to top out!

2
V5 Super Whipped Boulder 2m

Same start for Pussy Whipped but head right out the roof.

3
V9 Puppy Love Boulder

Start on the obvious flake/ledge. Move out via big crimpy moves to top out.

4
V8 Framed Boulder

Start low on the obvious crimp, then pull straight out the roof.

5

Off the edge move right to the fin, undercling like a demon, then desperately slap out the slopey edges.

6
V11 The Franklin Feeling Boulder 3m

FA: Tom Farrell, 2011

7
V3 Seeping Slit Boulder

From the jug (3m right of fern), go out to a slot then traverse right on slopers to finish on the furthest good sloper.

8
V3 Up Draft Boulder

From the jug above "M.S.", undercling out to the slopers and finish as for Seeping Slit.

9
V9 Locked In Boulder
10
V9 Lock Tight Boulder

From the jug on the back wall, come out to the slopey lip, then press, press, press through the slopers and the short corner.

11

From the flakes under the roof, make a big move to the slopes and another big move to the ledge.

12
V8 Paw No More Boulder

Start on the slopey lip at the base of the thin seam, power straight up.

13
V6 Jammer Boulder

Off the big sloper on the lip, slap straight up.

14
V4 Feldene Boulder

From the fractured slopey lip, straight up.

15
V5 ** Fat Spastic Boulder

From the low edge, move up and mantle. The shorter you are, the easier it is!

16
V6 Porn Boulder

Tackle the bulge left of "Korn" finishing over left.

17
V11 The Hangover Cure Boulder

Climb Porn, but finish way up high and right on the jug. Let the old chalk guide you

FA: Tom Farrell, 2011

18
V7 *** Weak Ape Test Zone Boulder 4m

Sit start on the sidepull/undercling. Low slabby band of rock is out for feet. Follow the obvious weakness through the roof to finish on the ledge out near the point.

19
V12 The Pusher Boulder

FA: Paul 'Punk' Westwood

20
V11 Groove Terminator Boulder

FA: Paul 'Punk' Westwood

21
V10 Whinging Poms Boulder
22
V10 Sheffield Steal Boulder

"TBH thought it was harder than Groove Terminator which got V11 but didn't think it would get 8A in the UK so gave it V10 instead." - Jon

FA: Jon Fullwood, 2003

23
V8 Born With Wings Boulder

Start on the bunch of slopey crimps above the broken flake. Make a move up, then a huge move right to a very enjoyable and juggy finish.

24
V3 *** Flapping Around Boulder 4m

Stand start at the bottom of the flake on the diagonal undercling, then tackle the very steep terrain to the obvious shelf.

25

Same as Flapping around but finish to the right.

26
V8 Poo Faces Boulder

An undercling nasty. Pull on the crap head high underclings and try and go up. If you get your feet off the ground, you're almost there.

27

Start low on the undercling right of the orange streak. A slopey traverse rightwards leads into Watch Your Back Jack.

28

From the low slopey break,make a big move straight up avoiding both the wall on the right and cracking your back on the boulders of death.

29
V4 Nek Minnit Boulder

Cool little dyno with a scary landing!

FA: Byron Glover, 2013

30
V8 Danger Zone Boulder

FA: Byron Glover, 2013

Open trips

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