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The Wing Cave CLOSED All Bouldering

32 routes in crag
  • Grades: AU
  • Approach time: 5min
  • Photos: 7
  • Ascents: 261
  • LOCKED: Only coodinators can edit

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Description

This area is CLOSED due to new restrictions imposed by the Sutherland Shire Council stating that " The features that make a good climbing crag are also the characteristics of a good Aboriginal shelter. A good shelter provides protection from the elements and is dry when it rains. A level earthen floor makes for a comfortable place to sleep. If the sandstone surfaces are hard and not crumbly then it will be more suitable for artwork and hand stencils."

This is the law, failure to follow these laws will only result in more crags being closed.

Steep cave climbing with a surprising amount of top outs.

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Approach

Park in Treloar Place, Menai at the first gated fire trail which leads down the hill - not the one next to the scout hall! Follow the fire trail down to the creek, then follow the creek to the right (downstream) on the opposite side. There is a path that leads you in to the left end of the cave.

Routes

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Grade Route

Sit start below the rooflet on right facing horn. Don't forget to top out!

Same start for Pussy Whipped but head right out the roof.

Start on the obvious flake/ledge. Move out via big crimpy moves to top out.

Start low on the obvious crimp, then pull straight out the roof.

Left to right traverse keeping below the mantle.

Starts on the lower break in Pussy Whipped then jug and heel your way to finish on the last hold of Framed.

Off the edge move right to the fin, undercling like a demon, then desperately slap out the slopey edges.

FA: Tom Farrell, 2011

From the jug (3m right of fern), go out to a slot then traverse right on slopers to finish on the furthest good sloper.

From the jug above "M.S.", undercling out to the slopers and finish as for Seeping Slit.

From the jug on the back wall, come out to the slopey lip, then press, press, press through the slopers and the short corner.

From the flakes under the roof, make a big move to the slopes and another big move to the ledge.

Start on the slopey lip at the base of the thin seam, power straight up.

Off the big sloper on the lip, slap straight up.

From the fractured slopey lip, straight up.

From the low edge, move up and mantle. The shorter you are, the easier it is!

Tackle the bulge left of "Korn" finishing over left.

Climb Porn, but finish way up high and right on the jug. Let the old chalk guide you

FA: Tom Farrell, 2011

Start on the shield, up to a crimp then massive dyno to the jug.

FA: Tom Farrell, 2016

Sit start on the sidepull/undercling. Low slabby band of rock is out for feet. Follow the obvious weakness through the roof to finish on the ledge out near the point.

FA: Paul 'Punk' Westwood

FA: Paul 'Punk' Westwood

"TBH thought it was harder than Groove Terminator which got V11 but didn't think it would get 8A in the UK so gave it V10 instead." - Jon

FA: Jon Fullwood, 2003

Start on the bunch of slopey crimps above the broken flake. Make a move up, then a huge move right to a very enjoyable and juggy finish.

Stand start at the bottom of the flake on the diagonal undercling, then tackle the very steep terrain to the obvious shelf.

Same as Flapping around but finish to the right.

An undercling nasty. Pull on the crap head high underclings and try and go up. If you get your feet off the ground, you're almost there.

Start low on the undercling right of the orange streak. A slopey traverse rightwards leads into Watch Your Back Jack.

From the low slopey break,make a big move straight up avoiding both the wall on the right and cracking your back on the boulders of death.

Cool little dyno with a scary landing!

FA: Byron Glover, 2013

FA: Byron Glover, 2013

Activity

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