A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. The Wing Cave 30 routes in Crag

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.001011, -34.014698


Steep cave climbing with a surprising amount of top outs.

Access Issues: inherited from Sutherland

There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.


Park in Treloar Place, Menai at the first gated fire trail which leads down the hill - not the one next to the scout hall! Follow the fire trail down to the creek, then follow the creek to the right (downstream) on the opposite side. There is a path that leads you in to the left end of the cave.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pussy Whipped

Sit start below the rooflet on right facing horn. Don't forget to top out!

V2 Boulder 2m
2 Super Whipped

Same start for Pussy Whipped but head right out the roof.

V5 Boulder 2m
3 Puppy Love

Start on the obvious flake/ledge. Move out via big crimpy moves to top out.

V9 Boulder
4 Framed

Start low on the obvious crimp, then pull straight out the roof.

V8 Boulder
5 Two Mats and a Sqeaky Dog

Off the edge move right to the fin, undercling like a demon, then desperately slap out the slopey edges.

V10 Boulder
6 The Franklin Feeling

FA: Tom Farrell, 2011

V11 Boulder 3m
7 Seeping Slit

From the jug (3m right of fern), go out to a slot then traverse right on slopers to finish on the furthest good sloper.

V3 Boulder
8 Up Draft

From the jug above "M.S.", undercling out to the slopers and finish as for Seeping Slit.

V3 Boulder
9 Locked In V9 Boulder
10 Lock Tight

From the jug on the back wall, come out to the slopey lip, then press, press, press through the slopers and the short corner.

V9 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 *** The Incredible Hulk

From the flakes under the roof, make a big move to the slopes and another big move to the ledge.

V6 Boulder
12 Paw No More

Start on the slopey lip at the base of the thin seam, power straight up.

V8 Boulder
13 Jammer

Off the big sloper on the lip, slap straight up.

V6 Boulder
14 Feldene

From the fractured slopey lip, straight up.

V4 Boulder
15 ** Fat Spastic

From the low edge, move up and mantle. The shorter you are, the easier it is!

V5 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 Porn

Tackle the bulge left of "Korn" finishing over left.

V6 Boulder
17 The Hangover Cure

Climb Porn, but finish way up high and right on the jug. Let the old chalk guide you

FA: Tom Farrell, 2011

V11 Boulder
18 *** Weak Ape Test Zone

Sit start on the sidepull/undercling. Low slabby band of rock is out for feet. Follow the obvious weakness through the roof to finish on the ledge out near the point.

V7 Boulder 4m
19 The Pusher

FA: Paul 'Punk' Westwood

V12 Boulder
20 Groove Terminator

FA: Paul 'Punk' Westwood

V11 Boulder
21 Whinging Poms V10 Boulder
22 Sheffield Steal

"TBH thought it was harder than Groove Terminator which got V11 but didn't think it would get 8A in the UK so gave it V10 instead." - Jon

FA: Jon Fullwood, 2003

V10 Boulder
23 Born With Wings

Start on the bunch of slopey crimps above the broken flake. Make a move up, then a huge move right to a very enjoyable and juggy finish.

V8 Boulder
24 *** Flapping Around

Stand start at the bottom of the flake on the diagonal undercling, then tackle the very steep terrain to the obvious shelf.

V3 Boulder 4m
25 Keep Out Of Reach Of Children

Same as Flapping around but finish to the right.

V3 Boulder 4m
26 Poo Faces

An undercling nasty. Pull on the crap head high underclings and try and go up. If you get your feet off the ground, you're almost there.

V8 Boulder
27 Watch Your Sack Crack

Start low on the undercling right of the orange streak. A slopey traverse rightwards leads into Watch Your Back Jack.

V9 Boulder
28 Watch Your Back Jack

From the low slopey break,make a big move straight up avoiding both the wall on the right and cracking your back on the boulders of death.

V6 Boulder
29 Nek Minnit

Cool little dyno with a scary landing!

FA: Byron Glover, 2013

V4 Boulder
30 Danger Zone

FA: Byron Glover, 2013

V8 Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
V2 Pussy Whipped Boulder 2m
V3 *** Flapping Around Boulder 4m
Keep Out Of Reach Of Children Boulder 4m
Seeping Slit Boulder
Up Draft Boulder
V4 Feldene Boulder
Nek Minnit Boulder
V5 ** Fat Spastic Boulder
Super Whipped Boulder 2m
V6 Jammer Boulder
Porn Boulder
*** The Incredible Hulk Boulder
Watch Your Back Jack Boulder
V7 *** Weak Ape Test Zone Boulder 4m
V8 Born With Wings Boulder
Danger Zone Boulder
Framed Boulder
Paw No More Boulder
Poo Faces Boulder
V9 Lock Tight Boulder
Locked In Boulder
Puppy Love Boulder
Watch Your Sack Crack Boulder
V10 Sheffield Steal Boulder
Two Mats and a Sqeaky Dog Boulder
Whinging Poms Boulder
V11 Groove Terminator Boulder
The Franklin Feeling Boulder 3m
The Hangover Cure Boulder
V12 The Pusher Boulder