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Description

A major Shire destination crag, with a heap of quality sport routes now that everything has been retrobolted. Great on a cold winter's morning or hot summer's afternoon.

Access issues

Currently there are roadworks, stay to the east of all the works and do a small scrub bash along the edge of the fences or roadworks. http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/images/projects/sydney-south/alfords-point-road/alfords-point-map.jpg

Approach

Park at the end of Maxwell Close, walk down the path towards the freeway, till you hit the roadworks, turn R (N) and walk 50m through bush along top of little craglettes till you're between the carpark and the cliff.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
18 Green Frogs and Liver Sport 10m, 2

Start: 30m left of main wall. 2 BRs to lower off. Not as hard as it looks.

FA: Shae Constantine, 1994

2
16 Blackened Slab Sport 8m, 3

Black slab 10m R of Green Frogs and Liver, and 20m left of main wall. Up to move through bulge then easily to lower off, shared with Runnel Wall.

FA: unknown

3
10 Runnel Wall Sport 10m, 3

Start 2m R of Blackened Slab. Step up R on ledge then up to big ledge. Left to nose and up to shared lower-off. Set up for a practice belay in the middle off 2 rings.

FA: mikl, 2014

4
17 iota Sport 6m

Start 1m left of MacGuyer, up. Nice but tiny. Soloed then bolted.

FFA: anon, 2015

5
19 Smidgeon Sport 6m, 2

Start as for McGuyver and up, move left to single bolt lower off for Iota. Soloed then bolted.

FA: anon, 2015

6
16 * MacGyver Sport 8m, 3

Start on left side of short orange wall. Traverse right wards along the break then up the big flake. Continue to move right to anchors below big tree.

FA: Jason & Wade Stewart, 2014

7
24 ** Bee's Dick Sport 10m, 5

As per M, but continue to traverse along the break for another bolt then up the tricky moves on NA.

FA: Wade Stewart & Jason Lammers, 2014

8
24 No Answers Sport 6m, 3

Start: Below orange streak, left of main wall. Thin and bulgy. 3 Ubolts to shared lower off with M

FA: Chris Wallace, 1993

9
19 * Suburbanitis Sport 15m, 6

Nice wall with a hard thin start and easy finish. Start at big pockets on left side of tall wall. Cruxy thin moves for three bolts to ledge. Up to steep flake with cool, easy moves, then right and up to lower-off anchor.

FA: David Barnes, 1993

10
19 * Brown Hornet Sport 15m, 6

Start 1m right of S. Stickclip first ring and boulder the bulge at the start to pockets. Trend right for a few bolts then straight up the middle of wall above to shared lower-off with S.

FA: Chris Wallace, 1993

11
20 ** Brother Sun Sport 15m, 6

A great wall route with excellent features. Juggy pockets to start, then a few tricky moves to gain big left facing flake. Also makes quite a nice trad route, throw a few extra cams in to protect the start.

FA: Unknown, 2000

12
21 ** Sister Moon Sport 15m, 6

2m right of BS. Crag classic up the highest part of this crag. A long featured wall climb with lots of stainless.

Don't dodge the crux if you want the full tick - it goes!

FA: Unknown

13
21 ** Cherry Sport 15m, 6

Burly start right of SM, with a bit of a move to start.

FA: Jason Lammers, Paul Thomson & Neil Monteith, 2013

14

Start 2m R of Cherry. Stick clip BR (warning, undersized bolt, usea fat screwgate or 2 biners in boltplate to avoid unclipping. Back up with a wire?) then boulder up and dyno to jug. Continue as for FMS. A softie at 23.

FA: Doug Smith, 1998

15
17 * Fabulous Muppet Show Sport 15m

Start: small corner at right end of wall, up and leftwards up scooped arete to double rings. 5 rings.

FA: Shae Constantine, 1994

16
* Mad Bolter Sport 7m

Roof in cave up and right of FMS. 3 new Ubolts to lower off. Belay well, the ground is close. Has this been climbed?

17
20 * Mrs Doubthold SportProject 7m, 3

Start just right of Mad Bolter and traverse left crossing MB at the 3rd bolt. Finishes with hands on top at the crack, backjump to clean.

Set by Jeff Crass, 2014

18
14 Bumbly's first Sport 8m, 2

Corner and arete 4m L of 4moves3bolts

FA: Erwin Gamboa, 2014

19
21 * Stumpy Sport 8m, 2

Easy once you find the correct holds, hard to onsight though. Climb the crack and wall just R of Bumbly's First, step left to shared lower-off.

FA: anon, 2016

20
24 4 moves 3 bolts Sport 18m, 3

18m R of main wall area, 2m R of a short crack. Up to horizontal and R to Ubolt. Up to big ledge and up wall easily behind.

FA: mikl law, 2014

21
24 * Stretch Target Sport 8m, 2

Start 2m R of 4 moves 3 bolts. Up, up, and away. Bouldery.

FA: mikl law, 2014

22
21 ** Breaking Good Trad 15m

Great trad climbing, plugging cams into Arapiles style rock. 20m right of the main wall on an orange section. Long reach to first break and up to ledge and easy wall behind. Good cams (3 small ones to start, then small to hand size), someone has drilled holes in all the wrong places also.

FA: mikl law, 2014

23
18 * It's a wrap Sport 12m, 6

3m R of Breaking Good in middle of wall, 3m L of seam (Gushing Knees). Step off short persons cheater rock on first ledge and up and head left. Slight runout to 5th Ubolt.

FA: Vanessa Peterson, 2015

24
19 * Gushing Knees Sport 15m, 4

Start 25m R of main wall, some 5m R of the smooth orange section (Breaking Good) at a thin seam, and about 2m R of a corgi-sized boulder sitting on the ledge. Marked gK. May have been an old top-rope route.

FA: Jeff Crass, 2014

25
19 ** Gushing Shins Sport 13m, 4

Start 1.5 m R of Gushing Knees. Share a hold with Necropolis Kidney then up and left to share anchors with Gushing Knees.

FA: Jeff Crass, 2014

26
20 * Necropolis Kidney Sport 15m

About 30m R of the Main Wall is a smooth wall. Scramble up onto the ledge and find line of RBs and old carrots 2m R of a painted "K" on the wall. Move slightly right to lower off (shared with VLP).

27
19 ** Viva La Papa Sport 15m, 5

Tricky slab 2m R of NK and 3m L of an orange left-facing corner (VC), then super orange stone and left to laybacks. 4 rings. Share loweroff with NK.

28
20 * Lurch Sport 13m, 4

Start 1m R of Necropolis Kidney and 2m left of the corner (Vintage Cuvee). Up and around roof, bridging into Vintage Cuvee for a move. Reachy.

FA: mikl law, 2014

29
17 ** Vintage Cuvée Sport 15m, 4

About 35m R of the main wall at a left facing orange corner. Easy start and up into nice corner. Pop out of the corner and up the nice headwall. All new RB's in 2014.

30
24 ** Vintage Direct Trad 15m

Start just R of VC, follow the seam and holds on right then through bulge and seam. Classic Araplies style trad climbing on bomber rock. The top 4m was an old sport route on dangerous bolts. The new trad version was head-pointed (easy to toprope off Vintage Cuvee rings) to find gear including 2 good RPs in first seam, and a yellow and big Blue Camalot in the back of the cave before final bulge.

FA: mikl law, 2014

31
24 ** Sweet Charlotte Sport 15m, 6

A great pocket pulling crux. Start 3m R of Vintage Direct, up thin walls and pull roof. All Ubolts now

FA: Dave Barnes, 1994

32
23 * Show Us Your Form Sport 15m, 4

12m R of Vintage Direct at tree. Easily to roof and heave yourself up and past lip to laybacky glory.

FA: Dave Barnes, 1984

33
23 * Glamworm Roof Sport 15m, 4

Start as for Show Us Your Form. Step right to seam and up.

FA: mikl, 2014

34
roof project SportProject

Line starts 3m R of Show Us Your Form.

35

Start as for GR and at the roof traverse across into WFH using the bolts from both. The drag through the draws is quite extensive by the end, and is best dealt with by unclipping the second draw of GR once you've clipped the third in the roof. There are options with how many draws you use.

FA: Peter Jeavons, 2016

36
23 * Working from Home Sport 16m, 6

2 fun boulders. Start up GMS, and move left at the break after the 3rd bolt - Up and thru the small roof to anchors.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2014

37
23 ** Give Me Souls Sport 15m, 7

Start 10m R of SUYF in cave. Up steeply left and on to the head wall. The first move is the crux, unless you start about 1.5m right of the first bolt - which lops off at least a grade.

38
22 ** Roof Stalker Sport 16m, 7

Start 5m R of GMS in cave. Hard start (left of the first bolt) and up to horizontal flake thingo. Clip a couple RB's in the roof, and then up the pumpy headwall.

39
23 ** Ogawayama Sport 15m

Up RS to the Mikl flake (use extended draw or sling here) and traverse right across the lip of the roof to a big move on big holds to easy finish.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2014

40
23 ** Exploding V Sport 15m

Steep start with some hard moves thru the V - then easy to the top.

FA: Wade Stewart, Jason Lammers & Viona Young, 2014

41
15 * Sideline Jack Sport 14m, 6

Start 10m R of RS at the right side of roofs. 6 Ubolts to lower off.

42
18 * Japan15 Sport 12m

Clip first bolt on 'SJ' then up rightwards thru the bulges.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2014

43
17 * Soccer Mum Sport 13m, 5

Start at right end of cave, at right side of small trees sitting against the rock, 4m R of Sideline Jack. Up. Another nice warmup.

FA: Vanessa Peterson, 2014

Activity

Check out what is happening in Alford Point Main Area.