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Access issues inherited from Sutherland

There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.

Ethic inherited from Sutherland

There are no real ethics in Sydney, ethics were surrended to the Riobi and Hilti crews in the 1990's. It is common that people retro-bolt. Places like Bonnet Bay, Wastelands and Heathcote being good examples. In recent times, old routes have been repeated and renamed at places which is a little dissapointing. It would be sad to see the crags grid locked with rings.

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Grade Route

Start: Left of main wall. 2 BRs to double BB.

FA: Shae Constantine, 1994

23 No Answers Sport 6m

Start: Below orange streak, left of main wall. Thin and bulgy. Three FHs. Solid at 23.

FA: Chris Wallace, 1993

18 Suburbanitis Sport 15m, 6

Nice wall with a hard thin start and easy finish. Start at big pockets on left side of tall wall. Cruxy thin moves for three bolts to ledge. Up to steep flake with cool, easy moves, then right and up to lower-off anchor.

FA: David Barnes, 1993

18 Brown Hornet Sport 15m, 6

Start 1m right of S. Stickclip first ring and boulder the bulge at the start to pockets. Trend right for a few bolts then straight up the middle of wall above to shared lower-off with S.

FA: Chris Wallace, 1993

19 * Brother Sun Sport 15m, 6

A great wall route with excellent features. Juggy pockets to start, then a few tricky moves to gain big left facing flake.

FA: Unknown, 2000

21 ** Sister Moon Sport 15m, 6

2m right of BS. Crag classic up the highest part of this crag. A long featured wall climb with lots of stainless

FA: Unknown, 2000

21 * Cherry Sport 15m, 6

Burly start right of SM, with a bit of a move near the top.

FA: Jason Lammers, Paul Thomson & Neil Monteith, 2013


Stick clip BR then boulder up and dyno to jug. Continue as for FMS. A softie at 23..

FA: Doug Smith, 1998


Start: Below arete. 4 BRs to double BB.

FA: Shae Constantine, 1994

20 Mad Bolter Sport 7m

Choss Roof climbing around the corner from FMS.

FA: Unknown, 2000

18 Necropolis Kidney Sport 15m
19 * Viva La Papa Unknown 15m, 5

Tricky slab, then super orange stone to overhanging corner.

17 * Vintage Cuvée Mixed 15m, 2

Easy start, into nice corner. Pop out the corner and up the nice headwall.

FA: Random Dude, 1902

20 Vintage Direct Sport 15m, 2

Straight up as per CV, clip a bolt and follow the seam to rejoin with CV at the last bolt.

FA: 1902

21 Show Us Your Form Unknown 15m, 3

Easily to roof. Clip hanger and heave yourself up and past.

23 Give Me Souls Sport 15m, 6

Up steeply left and on to the head wall. All rings now.

24 Roof Stalker Sport 16m, 7

Stick clip crappy hanger, up to horizontal flake thingo. Clip a couple RB's in the roof, and then up the headwall. Rings in the roof, carrots on the headwall. Rap clean !

16 Sideline Jack Sport 14m

Right side of rooves. 3 BRs to double BB.