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Description

A major Shire destination crag, with a heap of quality sport routes now that everything has been retrobolted. Great on a cold winter's morning

Approach

The carpark 12 seconds from the clifftop is now for emergency vehicles only, so park at the end of Maxwell Cres, walk down the path towards the freeway, turn R (N) and walk 50m till you're between the carpark and the cliff.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
18 Green Frogs and Liver Sport 10m, 2

Start: 30m left of main wall. 2 BRs to lower off. looks hard.

FA: Shae Constantine, 1994

2
16 * Blackened Slab Sport 3

Black slab 10m R of Green Frogs and Liver, and 20m left of main wall, Up to move through bulge then easily to lower off, shared with Runnel Wall.

FA: unknown

3
10 Runnel Wall Sport 10m, 3

Start 2m R of Blackened Slab. Step up R on ledge then up to big ledge. Left to nose and up to shared lower-off. Set up for a practice belay in the middle off 2 rings.

FA: mikl, 2014

4
16 * MacGyver Sport 8m, 3

Start on left side of short orange wall. Traverse right wards along the break then up the big flake. Continue to move right to anchors below big tree.

FA: Jason and Wade Stewart, 26th Oct

5
23 * Bee's Dick Sport 10m, 5

As per M, but continue to traverse along the break for another bolt then up the tricky moves on NA.

FA: Wade Stewart and Jason Lammers, 26th Oct

6
23 No Answers Sport 6m, 3

Start: Below orange streak, left of main wall. Thin and bulgy. 2 FHs and 1 RB to shared lower off with M

FA: Chris Wallace, 1993

7
18 Suburbanitis Sport 15m, 6

Nice wall with a hard thin start and easy finish. Start at big pockets on left side of tall wall. Cruxy thin moves for three bolts to ledge. Up to steep flake with cool, easy moves, then right and up to lower-off anchor.

FA: David Barnes, 1993

8
19 Brown Hornet Sport 15m, 6

Start 1m right of S. Stickclip first ring and boulder the bulge at the start to pockets. Trend right for a few bolts then straight up the middle of wall above to shared lower-off with S.

FA: Chris Wallace, 1993

9
20 * Brother Sun Sport 15m, 6

A great wall route with excellent features. Juggy pockets to start, then a few tricky moves to gain big left facing flake. Also makes quite a nice trad route, throw a few extra cams in to protect the start..

FA: Unknown, 2000

10
21 ** Sister Moon Sport 15m, 6

2m right of BS. Crag classic up the highest part of this crag. A long featured wall climb with lots of stainless.

For the grade 20 version start over R in Cherry, then at 2nd bolt go way left and up. A bit run out but easier.

FA: Unknown

11
21 * Cherry Sport 15m, 6

Burly start right of SM, with a bit of a move near the top.

FA: Jason Lammers, Paul Thomson & Neil Monteith, 2013

12

Start 2m R of Cherry. Stick clip BR then boulder up and dyno to jug. Continue as for FMS. A softie at 23..

FA: Doug Smith, 1998

13
17 Fabulous Muppet Show Sport 15m

Start: small corner at right end of wall, up and leftwards up scooped arete to double rings. 5 rings.

FA: Shae Constantine, 1994

14
* Mad Bolter Sport 7m

Roof in cave up and right of FMS. 3 new Ubolts to lower off. Belay well, the ground is close. Has this been climbed?

15
20 * Mrs Doubthold Sport Project 7m, 3

Start just right of Mad Bolter and traverse Left crossing MB at the 3rd bolt. Finishes with hands on top at the crack, backjump to clean.

Set by Jeff Crass, 2014

16
14 Bumbly's first Sport 8m, 2

Corner and arete 4m L of 4moves3bolts

FA: Erwin Gamboa, 24th Nov

17
24 * 4 moves 3 bolts Sport 18m, 3

18m R of main wall area, 2m R of a short crack. Up to horizontal and R to Ubolt. Up to big ledge and up wall easily behimd

FA: mikl law, 2014

18
24 Stretch Target Sport 8m, 2

Start 2m R of 4 moves 3 bolts. Up,up, and away. Bouldery

FA: mikl law, 2014

19
21 * Breaking Good Trad 15m

great trad climbing, plugging cams into Arapiles style rock. 20m right of the main wall on an orange section. Long reach to first break and up to ledge and easy wall behind. Good cams (3 small ones to start, then small to hand size), someone has drilled holes in all the wrong places also.

FA: mikl law, 2014

20
long proj Sport Project

3m R of Breaking bad in middle of wall, 3m L of seam (Gushing Shins)

21
19 * Gushing shins Sport 15m, 4

Start 25m R of main wall, some 5m R of the smooth orange section (Breaking Good) at a thin seam. Marked K. May have been an old top-rope route.

FA: Jeff Crass, 2014

22
19 ** Gushing Knees Sport 13m, 4

Start 1.5 m of Gushing Shins. Share a hold with Necropolis Kidney then up and left to share anchors with Gushing Shins

FA: Jeff Crass, 2014

23
20 * Necropolis Kidney Sport 15m

About 30m R of the Main Wall is a smooth wall. Scramble up onto the ledge and find line of RBs and old carrots 2m R of a painted "K" on the wall. Move slightly right to lower off (shared with VLP).

24
19 * Viva La Papa Sport 15m, 5

Tricky slab 2m R of NK and 3m L of an orange left-facing corner (VC), then super orange stone and left to laybacks. 4 rings. Share loweroff with NK.

25
20 ** Lurch Sport 13m, 4

Start 1m R of Necropolis Kidney and 2m left of the corner (Vintage Cuvee). Up and arouind roof, bridging into Vintage Cuvee for a move. Reachy

FA: mikl law, 2014

26
17 ** Vintage Cuvée Sport 15m, 4

About 35m R of the main wall at a left facing orange corner. Easy start and up into nice corner. Pop out of the corner and up the nice headwall. New RB's all the way (2014)

27
24 ** Vintage Direct Trad 15m

Start just R of VC, follow the seam and holds on right then through bulge and seam. Classic Araplies style trad climbing on bomber rock. The top 4m was an old sport route on dangerous bolts. The new trad version was head-pointed (easy to toprope off Vintage Cuvee rings) to find gear including 2 good RPs in first seam, and a yellow and big Blue Camalot in the back of the cave before final bulge.

FA: mikl law, 2014

28
24 ** Sweet Charlotte Sport 15m, 6

A great pocket pulling crux. Start 3m R of Vintage Direct, up thin walls and pull roof. All Ubolts now

FA: Dave Barnes, 1994

29
23 * Show Us Your Form Sport 15m, 4

12m R of Vintage Direct at tree. Easily to roof and heave yourself up and past lip to laybacky glory.

FA: Dave Barnes, 1984

30
23 ** Glamworm Roof Sport 15m, 4

Start as for Show Us Your Form. Step right to seam and up

FA: mikl, 2014

31
roof project Sport Project

Line starts 3m R of Show us your Form

32
23 * Working from Home Sport 16m, 6

2 fun boulders.. Start up GMS, and move left at the break after the 3rd bolt - Up and thru the small roof to anchors.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2014

33
23 * Give Me Souls Sport 15m, 7

Start 10m R of SUYF in cave. Up steeply left and on to the head wall. The first move is the crux, unless you start about 1.5m right of the first bolt - which lops off at least a grade.

34
22 * Roof Stalker Sport 16m, 7

Start 5m R of GMS in cave. Hard start (left of the first bolt) and up to horizontal flake thingo. Clip a couple RB's in the roof, and then up the pumpy headwall.

35
23 Ogawayama Sport 15m

Up RS to the Mikl flake (use extended draw or sling here) and traverse right across the lip of the roof to a big move on big holds to easy finish.

FA: Jason Lammers, 30th Nov

36
23 ** Exploding V Sport 15m

Steep start with some hard moves thru the V - then easy to the top.

FA: Wade Stewart, Jason Lammers and Viona Young, 9th Nov

Set by Wade Stewart, 9th Nov

37
15 Sideline Jack Sport 14m, 6

Start 10m R of RS at the right side of roofs. 6 Ubolts to lower off.

38
18 ** Japan15 Sport 12m

Clip first bolt on 'SJ' then up rightwards thru the bulges.

FA: Jason Lammers, 9th Nov

39
17 Soccer Mum Sport 13m, 5

Start at right end of cave, at right side of small trees sitting against the rock, 4m R of Sideline Jack. Up. Another nice warmup.

FA: Vanessa Peterson, 2014