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Summary

Small traddy slabbing, good for winter

Description

A short, easy access crag above the Georges River. Because of the low angle many of these routes need rebrushing. The speedboat wankers are in full effect in summer, but since the cliff faces north it's not exactly prime climbing season. The bolts that exist here are old and rusted and should be replaced. A hazard reduction burn of the bush here in 2013 has left all the belay trees charred and sooty. Further right of these described routes is a small orange cave with signs of prior Aboriginal occupation. Please don't climb here.

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.

Approach

Park across the road from 29 Moonah Rd, Alford's Pt. Jump the Armco and walk down a right leading ramp througbha little cliffline, then head slightly left downhill about 60m down into the bush to a access ramp and large fallen boulder at the left end (facing out), which is the easiest way down. Avoid the crag in summer, since it faces basically north and hence bakes. The crag is located within the George's River National Park and access can be best described as "Don't Ask - Don't Tell". Climbs described right to left, facing the cliff.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
18 Stressed Out Trad 8m

Start at bottom of descent gully at right facing pocket. Up featured wall above on good cams to single Ubolt lower off.

FA: Andrew Moser, 1999

2
19 Diving Off the Stage Mixed 10m, 1

Start 2m left of SO at improbable blank wall. Find some small holds to get past blankness to horizontal. Long move to next horizontal then seam crack to ledge and final move past rusty carrot then left to lower off (shared with Rambozo the Clown). Mostly cams as pro.

FA: Andrew Moser & Richard Baker, 1985

3
20 ** Rambozo the Clown Mixed 11m, 2

Starts just left of small tree at small flake. Up flake, traverse right (good cam) then up face above. TwoUbolts and cams. Step R to shared lower-off.

FA: andrew Moser, 1999

4
21 ** Away Sport 10m, 3

As for Rambozo then left up wall to loweroff

FA: Mikl Law, 2016

5
20 *** Dyno Sport 11m, 4

Start 4m left of RC. Reachy moves between sloping pockets then final bulge, left to shared lower off.

FA: Andrew Moser, 1999

6
21 ** Thin Then Steep Unknown 11m, 3

Start 2m left of Dyno at horizontal pocket feature. Reachy moves between good holds finishing through roof on nice orange features. Three rusty carrots. Right to shared lower off

FA: Andrew Moser, 1999

7
18 * Q Ball Trad 11m

Start 2m left of TTS at ground level right facing flake. Hard start, move left using horizontal slot, up slab and through weakness in bulge above. Move left to lower of as for No HandsAll trad, big cams useful.

FA: Alf Corliss, 1996

8
17 * No Hands Trad 11m

Start 5m left of QB flake. Up past big pocket and black wall to ledge, then short easy wide crack through roof. Good trad gear in horizontals. take a lot of thin hand to fist sized cams.

FA: Alf Corliss, 1996

9
16 * Black Ripples Sport 9m, 4

Start 3m Left of No Hands. Up and slightly R, pull onto ledge and lower off on lip

FA: Mikl Law, 2016

10
23 ** Grit Trad Project

Pocketed wall 5m left of Black Ripple with good cams and an optional sideways 6 rock on the crux.

FA: Mikl Law, 2016

Activity

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