Back to top

Moonah Road Crag Rock climbing

10 routes in crag
  • Grades: AU
  • Approach time: 5 min
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 15
  • LOCKED: Only coodinators can edit

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Summary

Small traddy slabbing, good for winter

Description

This area was listed in a 2016 ban on climbing by the Sutherland Shire Council, however it appears the ban may only be relevant to the right side cave where people do not climb. This requires further clarification with Council. A short, easy access crag above the Georges River. Because of the low angle many of these routes need rebrushing. The speedboat wankers are in full effect in summer, but since the cliff faces north it's not exactly prime climbing season. The bolts that exist here are old and rusted and should be replaced. A hazard reduction burn of the bush here in 2013 has left all the belay trees charred and sooty. Further right of these described routes is a small orange cave with signs of prior Aboriginal occupation. Please don't climb here.

This is actually Moonah Road: http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/sutherland/area/13082299

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Approach

Park across the road from 29 Moonah Rd, Alford's Pt. Jump the Armco and walk down a right leading ramp througbha little cliffline, then head slightly left downhill about 60m down into the bush to a access ramp and large fallen boulder at the left end (facing out), which is the easiest way down. Avoid the crag in summer, since it faces basically north and hence bakes. The crag is located within the George's River National Park and access can be best described as "Don't Ask - Don't Tell". Climbs described right to left, facing the cliff.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
18 Stressed Out Trad 8m

Start at bottom of descent gully at right facing pocket. Up featured wall above on good cams to single Ubolt lower off.

FA: Andrew Moser, 1999

2
19 Diving Off the Stage Mixed 10m, 1

Start 2m left of SO at improbable blank wall. Find some small holds to get past blankness to horizontal. Long move to next horizontal then seam crack to ledge and final move past rusty carrot then left to lower off (shared with Rambozo the Clown). Mostly cams as pro.

FA: Andrew Moser & Richard Baker, 1985

3
20 ** Rambozo the Clown Mixed 11m, 2

Starts just left of small tree at small flake. Up flake, traverse right (good cam) then up face above. TwoUbolts and cams. Step R to shared lower-off.

FA: andrew Moser, 1999

4
21 ** Away Sport 10m, 3

As for Rambozo then left up wall to loweroff

FA: Mikl Law, 2016

5
20 *** Dyno Sport 11m, 4

Start 4m left of RC. Reachy moves between sloping pockets then final bulge, left to shared lower off.

FA: Andrew Moser, 1999

6
21 ** Thin Then Steep Unknown 11m, 3

Start 2m left of Dyno at horizontal pocket feature. Reachy moves between good holds finishing through roof on nice orange features. Three rusty carrots. Right to shared lower off

FA: Andrew Moser, 1999

7
18 * Q Ball Trad 11m

Start 2m left of TTS at ground level right facing flake. Hard start, move left using horizontal slot, up slab and through weakness in bulge above. Move left to lower of as for No HandsAll trad, big cams useful.

FA: Alf Corliss, 1996

8
17 * No Hands Trad 11m

Start 5m left of QB flake. Up past big pocket and black wall to ledge, then short easy wide crack through roof. Good trad gear in horizontals. take a lot of thin hand to fist sized cams.

FA: Alf Corliss, 1996

9
16 * Black Ripples Sport 9m, 4

Start 3m Left of No Hands. Up and slightly R, pull onto ledge and lower off on lip

FA: Mikl Law, 2016

10
23 ** Grit TradProject

Pocketed wall 5m left of Black Ripple with good cams and an optional sideways 6 rock on the crux.

FA: Mikl Law, 2016

Further right of these described routes is a small orange cave with signs of prior Aboriginal occupation. Please don't climb here.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Moonah Road Crag.