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Description

An impressive cave with many ultra hard projects, a couple of mid grade sport routes and one trad roof crack. The cliff faces south-west and is in the shade for almost all of the day.

Approach

Drive to #6 Lomandra Place, Alfords Point. Park on grassy area next to bush. Walk downhill through bush in a south-western direction following rock cairns for 120m to top of cliff. It is a bit hard to spot as it's actually quite short but mega overhung. About 5 minutes walk from the carpark.

Descent Notes

Lower-offs or backjump.

History

Originally developed by Cameron Taylor in 2009, he left one route and a slew of impossible looking unfinished projects. The crag reinvigorated by Monty in 2014.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
17 Cockatoomachoo Sport 8m, 2

Not shit, just short. The little grey rounded arete at base of descent gully with two FHs. Lower-off U bolt is well back from edge of cliff on boulder.

FA: Neil Monteith, 20th Sep

2

Fun steep route on far left end of cave with very high first bolt. Stick-clip it! Clipping the anchors is probably the crux, especially if you are short.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

3
? Project 1 (Closed - Bundy) Sport Project 11m, 4

Start as for UotO, then up and right past a couple more bolts to a killer finish.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

4

Starts on left side of crag outside the cave. Straight up slightly leaning wall then continue up arete. Hard at start and end. Could be a sandbag for some.

FA: Cameron Taylor, 2009

5
Project 2 (Closed) Sport Project 13m

Long move to begin on ultra slick rock, then traverse left along slippery break to jugs. Finish up steep black wall. Anchor is a bit too high - needs to be lowered to just over last bulge. Cameron did all the moves on this in 2009 and thought it would be grade 28. He has vowed to have another go in 2014 - stay tuned and stay off!

Set by Cameron Taylor, 2009

6
24 *** Bat Hang Sport 15m, 10

The best roof route in the Shire? Long pumpy upside down climbing with incredible pocket in the middle. Start in back of cave on small ledge. Reach left to slopey roof flake, and follow this to huge pocket (double feet bat-man no hands rest!) Continue left on reachy jugs and pockets until it's possible to get feet onto small shelf and some respite for your arms. Continue traversing left and finish out of sight of belayer on small vegetated ledge on far left. Reverse a few moves then back-jump to clean.

FA: Neil Monteith, 20th Sep

7
Project 3 (Open) Sport Project 10m, 6

Intense roofing - like a three star boulder problem but way up high. Start as for Bat Hang for 4 bolts then go right and out the ceiling on spaced pockets to large pocket and single U-bolt and old homemade hanger in middle of roof. Back-jump to clean.

Set by Neil Monteith, 19th Sep

8
Project 4 (Open) Sport Project 16m

A futuristic partially bolted project. Pocketed roof flake that turns into impossible blank ceiling (and fixed hangers). Good luck!

Set by Unknown, 2009

9
24 ** Suburban Realty Trad 13m

Roof crack splitter that starts as thin hands and ends with overhung wide trench. Well protected by cams from #0.75 Camalot to to #4 Camalot.

FA: (Aided) Enmore & Stu Dobbie, 4th Aug

FFA: Neil Monteith, 19th Sep

10
Project 5 (Open) Sport Project 8m

Mini (impossible?) bolted project. Starts 5m right of Suburban Realty. Bolts may be chopped eventually.

Set by Cameron Taylor, 2009

11
Project 6 (Closed) Sport Project 4m, 2

Cam reckons this is worthwhile. Batman start using rusty death bolt then two ubolts up black wall. It is a closed project - stay off.

Set by Cameron Taylor, 2009