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Lomandra Place Cave Mostly Sport climbing

11 routes in crag
  • Grades: AU
  • Photos: 2
  • Ascents: 15
  • LOCKED: Only coodinators can edit

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Description

An impressive cave with some ultra hard projects, a couple of mid grade sport routes and one trad roof crack. The cliff faces south-west and is in the shade for almost all of the day.

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Approach

Drive to #6 Lomandra Place, Alfords Point. Park on grassy area next to bush. Walk downhill through bush in a south-western direction following rock cairns for 120m to top of cliff. It is a bit hard to spot as it's actually quite short but mega overhung. About 5 minutes walk from the carpark.

History

View historical timeline

Originally developed by Cameron Taylor in 2009, he left one route and a slew of impossible looking unfinished projects. The crag reinvigorated by Monty in 2014.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Not shit, just short. The little grey rounded arete at base of descent gully with two FHs. Lower-off U bolt is well back from edge of cliff on boulder.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2014

Fun steep route on far left end of cave with very high first bolt. Stick-clip it! Clipping the anchors is probably the crux, especially if you are short.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

Start as for UotO, then up and right past a couple more bolts to a killer finish.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

Starts on left side of crag outside the cave. Straight up slightly leaning wall then continue up arete. Hard at start and end. Could be a sandbag for some.

FA: Cameron Taylor, 2009

Long move to begin on ultra slick rock, then traverse left along slippery break to jugs. Finish up steep black wall. Anchor is a bit too high - needs to be lowered to just over last bulge. Cameron did all the moves on this in 2009 and thought it would be grade 28. He has vowed to have another go in 2014 - stay tuned and stay off!

Set by Cameron Taylor, 2009

The best roof route in the Shire or junkasarous? Long pumpy upside down climbing with incredible pocket in the middle. Start in back of cave on small ledge. Reach left to slopey roof flake, and follow this to huge pocket (double feet bat-man no hands rest!) Continue left on reachy jugs and pockets until it's possible to get feet onto small shelf and some respite for your arms. Continue traversing left and finish out of sight of belayer on small vegetated ledge on far left. Reverse a few moves then back-jump to clean.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2014

Intense roofing - like a three star boulder problem but way up high. Start as for Bat Hang for 4 bolts then go right and out the ceiling on spaced pockets to large pocket and single U-bolt and old homemade hanger in middle of roof. Back-jump to clean.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2014

FA: Scott Pritchard, 2014

A futuristic partially bolted project. Pocketed roof flake that turns into impossible blank ceiling (and fixed hangers). Good luck!

Set by Unknown, 2009

Roof crack splitter that starts as thin hands and ends with overhung wide trench. Well protected by cams from #0.75 Camalot to to #4 Camalot.

FA: (Aided) Enmoore Lin, 2014

FFA: Neil Monteith, 2014

Mini (impossible?) bolted project. Starts 5m right of Suburban Realty. Bolts may be chopped eventually.

Set by Cameron Taylor, 2009

Cam reckons this is worthwhile. Batman start using rusty death bolt then two ubolts up black wall. It is a closed project - stay off.

Set by Cameron Taylor, 2009

Activity

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