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Description

Almost the entire wall is the work of Claw. He must have been working at the nuclear Reactor nearby at the time but he skidded all over this slab and sunk a fair few BR's into it. Most people do the two routes on the far right, Mr. Squiggle (20) and Ms Pat (18). Mike's Glacis (29) is something for the budding crack hard man and has featured in Rock Magazine as one of the hardest slabs in Oz.I still have no idea how he did it. There are a few good beginner's routes over on the right end, and a great collexction of crack climbs too. Bring a brush to clean these routes up before you jump on them and don’t forget your mosquito repellent!

Dave Barnes

This area is now cleaning up nicely, the paths are becoming well established and the lower slab is a great jumping off place for a swim (The last shark death in this river was 1946!)

MC 2013

Approach

Top access: From the bottom of Shackel Road Bangor, walk down the main path for about 3 minutes to a line of white and yellow tapes (about 30m past a prominent vertically bedded small boulder 10m from the track) that heads off on the left hand side of the path that lead across the hillside for 100m to a descent about 15m R of Mr Squiggle. From the main cliff, head right to the Tarmac Traverse area, walk right (facing in) about 20m the first climb (Isis). Alternatively, descend to the main cliff and head out right (Facing the cliff until you hit the slabs)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
24 * Isis Sport 12m

Start: 25m right of the main wall.

Up seam to lower off. Powerful moves.

FA: Mike Law, 1990

2
29 *** Glacis Sport 18m

Start: 3m right of Isis.

Sustained and desparate climbing up the twin cracks.

FA: Mike Law, 1987

3
24 * Moss Ghyll Grooves Sport 10m

20m right of G, starting below cracks at left edge of steep wall.

Up the cracks heading slightly left at the top to anchor. Looks easy...

FA: Mike Law, 1990

4

start as for Moss Ghyll.

A bit contrived. Up MGG then move right and back left to anchors. Looks desperate!

FA: Cam Taylor, 2008

5
25 *** In the Groove Sport 15m

Right of MGG. Super funky pocket pulling. Up the slab laybacking furiously, especially the final wide crack.

FA: Mike Law, 1990

6
23 ** Legless Unknown 20m

There are two random old carrots high on this wall between ITG & Legless. Good luck!

Legless - 10m right of ITG.

Stick clip high Ubolt, either batman up rope or pull nasty boulder problem to start, right to corner then up and out right for a move to bizarre Greek dancing boy move at top.

FA: Mike Law, 1991

7
25 * Spite Unknown 15m

Just past the little creek that flows down the face is the Trauma Wall.

Spite - Just right of the creek. A desperate granite slab test piece ( I know that the topo says it's 23). Clean before climbing, stickclip first Ubolt.

Stick clip high Ubolt and go

FA: Mike Law, 1990

8
20 ** Mr Squiggle Sport 15m, 4

8m right of the creek and 5m right of Spite.

Up the fun and increasingly delicate groove and crack. Left a wee bit at the top before moving right to anchors.

FFA: Mike Law, 1990

9
21 ** Ms Pat Sport 15m, 4

4m right of MS.

Up the delicate slab to anchors on block. In the 80s it had 3 less grades and 2 less bolts!

FA: Mike Law, 1989

10
18 ** Monopoly Sport 10m, 3

5 metres right of Ms Pat. Climb up onto the hollow sounding flake (RB). Climb the smooth slab (RB) using the small crystals that poke out of the sandstone. Some may require reading glasses to spot the crystals!

FA: Michael Combley & Anrew Rigden, 2013

11
17 Trivial Pursuit Sport 10m, 3

Start 2 metres right of Monopoly: Climb into the scoop and comfortably clip the RB. Friction up the slab to reach sloping holds, continue smearing upwards and mantle shelf onto the holds. Stand up and clip the next RB. Move left to lower off Monopoly Both Monopoly & Trivial Pursuit are both excellent practise pieces for the harder slab climbs to the left. 10 metres to the right of these climbs is a pathway that descends to Angels Buttress and also another pathway upwards that joins the Cathedral descent path. To reach the Cathedral descent path climb upwards 10 metres right of Trivial Pursuit and follow the yellow and white insulation tape bands to reach the main access path

FA: Michael Combley & Andrew Rigden, 2013

12
18 ** Boot Flake Sport 6m, 2

Fun layback. Named after the hole at the base a brand new Miura. Start 20m R of Trivial Pursuit and 1m left of 'Oh the Humidity" at wide crack.

FA: mikl, 2013

13
16 * Oh the Humidity Trad 6m

Nice thin crack. Start about 12m uphill from Wire Brush and Dettol. Up crack to 2 ring lower-off.

FA: Stu Dobster, 2012

14

About 40m right of MP is a giant flake leaning against the cliff, forming an overhung wide layback corner. Undercling the wide crack then walk left 4m and up the wall to anchor. Careful belaying is needed to keep you off the ledeg on the bouldery crux. Use a screwgate on the bolt. It was originally graded 18 and had two 70's toproping bolts in it.

FA: Mike Law, 2011

15
? Arete project Unknown 12m

Short arete 2m right of WB+D

16
20 * Tourniquet Trad 18m

Learn to offwidth and remove ugly excess skin! 8m further right around the arete is an offwidth.

Stick clip BR at 4m and up past another bolt to hand crack and gear to lower-off.

FA: Stu Dobbie, 2011

17
18 ** Buffalo Bum Trad 18m

The hand and fist crack 1m right of Tourniquet. Step in from right. Good stuff, eats cams. Lower-off on left as for Tourniquet

FA: Mike Law, 2011

18
21 ** Nutter in a Gutter Trad 15m

Funky groove and neat face climbing. Up crack 8 m R of Buffalo Bum to ledge, step R 1.5m and up wall to jugs then left to crack

FA: Gareth Downey, 2013

19
20 *** Wench in a Trench Mixed 18m, 2

Wide crack 8m right of Buffalo Bum

Past 2 RBs, then nice through bulge at top to loweroffs. Nuts and cams for top section; you can also get some gear in the break before the 2nd bolt.

FA: Stu Dobbie, Enmoore Lin, 2011

20
24 *** Boffin in a Coffin Sport 12m, 4

Epic offwidth through roof 8m right of Wench. Offffffwidth into sport climbing crux on wall.

FA: Mike Law, 2011

21
22 * Tweedlebum Trad 10m

Start 10m R of Boffin in a Coffin. Up to roff and up. Wide

FA: mikl, 2011

22
6 * Gumboot Ridge Sport 12m, 3

Easiest sport route in town? A good beginner's route. Walk down and R 10m from Wire Brush and Dettol, then down the Right side of a boulder. Walk climb the ridge.

FA: mikl, 2013

23
12 ** Plimsole Line Sport 15m, 3

Another easy beginner's slab climb up the slab right of Gumboot Ridge: Start at the lowest point of the slab and follow the line of RB's trending left to the single RB belay at the top.

FA: Michael Combley & Andrew Rigden (Solo), 2013