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Description

Almost the entire wall is the work of Claw. He must have been working at the nuclear Reactor nearby at the time but he skidded all over this slab and sunk a fair few BR's into it. Most people do the two routes on the far right, Mr. Squiggle (20) and Ms Pat (18). Mike's Glacis (29) is something for the budding crack hard man and has featured in Rock Magazine as one of the hardest slabs in Oz.I still have no idea how he did it. There are a few good beginner's routes over on the right end, and a great collexction of crack climbs too. Bring a brush to clean these routes up before you jump on them and don’t forget your mosquito repellent!

Dave Barnes

This area is now cleaning up nicely, the paths are becoming well established and the lower slab is a great jumping off place for a swim (The last shark death in this river was 1946!)

MC 2013

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The Ampitheatre

1
19 Sorcerer's Apprentice Sport 10m, 2

The first route on the crag. Funky start up corner to ledge then hard arete. Optional finshing pitch above is a nice 12 onto the summit.

FA: Stu Dobster, 2011

2
16 * Andromedary Sport 15m, 4

Start in centre of slab 5m R of Sorcerer's Apprentice. Clip 1st bolt (use tree) then left and up easily to loweroff on boulder above (or continue up P2 of S.A.)

FA: mikl law, 2013

3
24 ** Caesarean Section Sport 10m, 3

3 RB's and Lower Off added 2011.

FA: Richard Sonnerdale

4
24 ** Prevenge Sport 13m, 5

Start in V corner just Right of CS. Bridge up and jump/leap/fly onto hold below first bolt, tall lads can do it direct. Hard moves on big holds to ledge then layback arete up and right to anchor.

FA: mikl, 2013

5

An interresting Vee-crack followed by a layback. Take a few fist sized cams for the top. There's a single Ubolt to lower off, or a top belay on the pinnacle.

FA: Stu Dobster, 2011

6

Blunt arete with strange carved tank strand and date 1/1/1941 at the base. 2 rings, open project

Set by Michael Law, 2011

7
20 * Layback Crack Sport 12m

Up corner (has been laybacked, but good jambs) then right on outside of cave and up tricky arete.

FA: mikl law, 2011

8
25 ** Bellygood Sport 15m, 5

flared layback seam 10m right of The Layback Corner with humiliating boulder start. Maybe 21V4

FA: mikl law, 2014

9
23 *** Frijidij Sport 10m, 4

Second corner 12m right of Layback Corner. Up corner and up slapping fridge arete.

FFA: Mikl Law, 2013

10

Start 2m L of Head Injuries. Up on jugs and left on smaller holds then back right on no holds

FA: Gareth Downey, 2014

11
13 Head Injuries Sport 6m

Start: Below corner crack.

'Layback' up the corner passing new bolts. 'Access' pitch for the other climbs.

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989

12
21 ** Young Bumblies Sport 10m

Climb HI or TQX and head left to flake and steep wall (Rebolted 2011). Best climbed as 2 pitches. Can lower from top to deck (and the second can too)

FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989

13
22 ** Surface Paradise Sport 20m

Start up Head Injuries and up wall above, powerful then delicate.

FA: Mike Law, 2011

14

Up seam right of 'Head Injuries' and up arete to join 'Surface Paradise'. A few weird moves to a sloping ledge above the 3rd Ubolt. The fin on the left side of the ledge is on. Stay on the right side of the arete above to join SP at the break..

FA: Mike Law, 2011

15
21 ** The Dynamic Duo Sport 18m

About 3m R of Head Injuries, head up the flake and steep wall on left of crack, bridge into crack for a move at 6th bolt.

FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989

16

Mostly easy bridging up a hand and fist crack (or add thin roof crack start). Take (age/10) each of yellow and blue camalots, 2 hex 10s are handy too. Crack corner between TDD and JC, either step off block or crank thin crack start. Easilyto roof and a move, then up to final juggy chimney.

FA: Michael Law, 2015

17
24 * Jaded Cravings Sport 16m

RB's to lower off up right arete of wide crack (and into it for a move). Rebolted 2006

FA: Dave Barnes, 1990

18

LH variant of FiyF

FA: Jason Lammers, 2000

19

Up JC to 2nd bolt, vere right, tricky moves to gain break. Launch out to the headwall above and take the right line of RBs to top.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

20

Open project. start about 3m left of Anticoagulant et al. Up and leftwards, finish up failure is your friend

Set by Michael Law, 2011

21

FA: mikl, 1990

22
24 * Anticoagulant Sport 15m

Desperate! Retro bolted 2011

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989

23
27 ** Bordella de Merde Sport 8m, 3

A DF to expectorant or start up anticoagulant, the pinch out right is on (rebolted 2008)

FA: Richard Sonnerdale, 2011

24
25 ** Expectorant Sport 15m, 4

Start up corner as for 'Anticoagulant' and 'Hercules' then up through caves to tenuous finish on line of bolts a meter left of 'Hercules'.

FA: Mike Law, 2011

25
22 ** Hercules Sport 15m

Start: Just left of 'The Cathedral' Cave. Clip 1st bolt and then move up and to the left. Continue straight up past some fantasic climbing to lower off. Rebolted 2006, 4 RB and Double RB Lower Off.

FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989

26

Was always hard for 23 for a move, then easy slabbing to the top. Pre-clipping the anchor with a sling loses 2 grades, and all your self-respect. From the double RB's on 'Hercules', blast up, 2 RB's to double RB lower off (rebolted 2008)

FA: Mike Law, 1990

27
21 *** Imogen Sport 15m

Start just left of Cathedral Cave. Up blunt arete. Way cool rock climbing. A softie at 21, get on it.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2008

28
25 *** Imogenation Sport 22m, 11

Thin cranking, DF to Imogen

FA: mikl, 2013

29
21 ** Fat Crack Trad 22m

Streno thrash, great fun. Essential before a trip to Frog Buttress or Yosemite.The crux section had previously been done as part of The Shute. Medium wires, finger to hand cams and a fist cam above the thread and one for the top chimney.

FA: mikl law, 2013

30
15 Axe Grinder Sport 8m

A route on its own and the final meters of 'The Shute'. Probally a bit of a pain to get to. Rap in from trees on top of cliff and climb out. " I would not trust the old rusty carrots for the hanging belay, but there are some new RBs you could setup a hanging belay with some slings of different sizes. " 3 RB to Double RB lower off. Nice and airy up there.

FA: Dave Barnes, 1989

31

The obvious extension to BBB that now has an extra bolt and strangely enough it now seems do-able. CLOSED PROJECT

FA: 2000

Set by Jason Lammers, 2013

32
20 Bundy's been bolting Sport 15m, 6

Start just left of the Cathedral cave. Only 20, if you dont do the last move. Direct extension is open project.

FA: Lord Bundy, 2007

33
23 * The Shute Sport 25m

Up BBB, then stem up the crack and right into AG. A committing adventure

FA: Cameron Taylor, 2000

34
24 ** Bora Sport 25m

Pumpy pumpy pumpy. Up right side of cave and traverse lip then up groove and wall to top.

FA: Mike Law, 2011

35
19 ** Wacky Tabacci Sport 25m

If you like this sort of thing, this is the sort of thing you'll like. A classic with exposed climbing on good holds with 'sporting' pro, but there are a few chimney moves so long pants recommended. The obvious chimney to the right of The Cathedral cave. Up then use jugs on right arete. Above chokstone/roof thing, step around left arete and up to lower off. Technically easy but pretty out there, better to be overgraded than a sandbag I suppose....

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989

36
20 ** Retro Crack Sport 25m

The bolted crack line 5m R of Wacky Tabacki. Mostly laybacking and climbing the left arete but a jamb or two may be needed. Could be lead on large natural gear if you don't like Ubolts

FA: Mike Law, 2011

37
20 * Get Out of Town Mixed 25m, 3

Start on face 1m right of V. Hard off the ground to RB (20), and trad up to pea pod. Up a bit then take the left-hand flake past 2 rings to a lower-off.

FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989

38
18 Vitez Trad 25m

Start in the corner crack 1 m Right of Get out of Town. Follow this up and over a bulge to the pea pod. Move right and clip the chain on IG then right again to join line on new RBs to top off cliff and double RB lower off.

FA: P. Farkas, 1989

39
18 Stainless Mystery Trad 30m

Start up GOOT or 'Vitez' (trad) and traverse left in break at 10m then finish up Retro Crack (rings).

FA: Hill's Alien visitation crew from TJF, 2000

40

Up Vitez and continue straight up the wide crack above past 3 stainless carrots

41
21 Medieval Remedies Mixed 25m, 4

Another wall finish to the 2 cracks, one very funky move... Start up Vitez or GOOT to pod, right a move to Inchworm Groove anchor then climb the wall a metre R of wide crack (Vitez DF) past 3 RBs to single U lower off.

FA: Ben Williams, 2015

42
27 * Inchworm Groove Trad 8m

This one is for the hard nuts,it was once the hardest trad line in shire, and possibly NSW. Start: Below the thin seam, tenuous moves up the groove to lower off chain at half height or easily to top up anything nearby. Take small gear.

FA: Mike Law, 1990

43
17 R ** Ozone Action Mixed 20m, 3

Sydney Classic at the grade! Rebolted in 2006, but still not a sport route. Start: Below the obvious water groove / flake feature. Follow the flake line / water groove past a couple of RBs, sling the top of the feature and take a well earned rest. Blast up to top past a run out section (gear possible no3 and 1.5 friends) then clip another RB on the way to shared lower off with CF (or top out and rap off the big tree).

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989

44
23 * Creature Feature Sport 20m

As for OA until for the 1st section. Then clip RB on left and move to the left up the thin slab past 3 new RB to lower offs. Rebolted 2006

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989

45
21 ** Gutterfingers Sport 20m

Excellent climbing finishing in strange laybacking up a runnel. Once again, almost a sport climb if you carry a sling for the big jug above the second bolt on OA. As for OA for 10m (past 2 RBs and a sling runner). Then move left (bolt) and straight up the thin slab above, move left to lower off.

FA: Vanessa Peterson, 2011

46

climb wobbly tree and then finish up one of the routes above Tarmac Traverse.

47
14 Guerrilla Warfare Unknown 8m
48
22 Ghostrider Sport 8m

The short hard little problem under NN. Hard start to pocket then crimp your way to the chain under NN.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2006

Tarmac Traverse

49
13 Aero Arete Trad 8m

Start: Just right of arete, use pro as for OA.

FA: Steve Turcsanyi, 1989

50

One more accross, 3 BRs.

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989

51
16 Cathedral Quack Sport 8m

The next one along to the left. Another fun climb !

FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989

52
16 Neuron Nerd Sport 8m, 3

Start just right of the chains, and up past three RBs.

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989

53
16 Cosmic Cruncher Sport 8m

FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989

54
6 Tarmac Traverse Sport 10m

The access pitch for the next 5 climbs. Start from bunch of small trees. The obvious low angle slab leading left across the middle of the wall to a rap chain.

FA: Captain Cook

55
14 Shoot That Dog Trad 10m

The tricky looking Chimney

FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989

56
20 * Mushroom Mantle Sport 12m

Start below flake. Up the flake with a bizarre mantle near the top. 4 Ubolts and lower-off. (Rebolted 2011)

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989

57

Start left of descent chimney. Up slab and bulge (4 Ubolts) to lower off. (Rebolted 2011)

FA: Mike Law

58
24 * Isis Sport 12m

Start: 25m right of the main wall and Tarmac traverse routes, the first line on the smooth black wall.

Up seam to lower off. Powerful moves.

FA: Mike Law, 1990

59
29 *** Glacis Sport 18m

Start: 3m right of Isis.

Sustained and desparate climbing up the twin cracks.

FA: Mike Law, 1987

60
24 * Moss Ghyll Grooves Sport 10m

20m right of G, starting below cracks at left edge of steep wall.

Up the cracks heading slightly left at the top to anchor. Looks easy...

FA: Mike Law, 1990

61

start as for Moss Ghyll.

A bit contrived. Up MGG then move right and back left to anchors. Looks desperate!

FA: Cam Taylor, 2008

62
25 *** In the Groove Sport 15m

Right of MGG. Super funky pocket pulling. Up the slab laybacking furiously, especially the final wide crack.

FA: Mike Law, 1990

63
23 ** Legless Unknown 20m

There are two random old carrots high on this wall between ITG & Legless. Good luck!

Legless - 10m right of ITG.

Stick clip high Ubolt, either batman up rope or pull nasty boulder problem to start, right to corner then up and out right for a move to bizarre Greek dancing boy move at top.

FA: Mike Law, 1991

64
25 * Spite Unknown 15m

Just past the little creek that flows down the face is the Trauma Wall.

Spite - Just right of the creek. A desperate granite slab test piece ( I know that the topo says it's 23). Clean before climbing, stickclip first Ubolt.

Stick clip high Ubolt and go

FA: Mike Law, 1990

65
20 ** Mr Squiggle Sport 15m, 4

8m right of the creek and 5m right of Spite.

Up the fun and increasingly delicate groove and crack. Left a wee bit at the top before moving right to anchors.

FFA: Mike Law, 1990

66
21 ** Ms Pat Sport 15m, 4

4m right of MS.

Up the delicate slab to anchors on block. In the 80s it had 3 less grades and 2 less bolts!

FA: Mike Law, 1989

67
18 ** Monopoly Sport 10m, 3

5 metres right of Ms Pat. Climb up onto the hollow sounding flake (RB). Climb the smooth slab (RB) using the small crystals that poke out of the sandstone. Some may require reading glasses to spot the crystals!

FA: Michael Combley & Anrew Rigden, 2013

68
17 Trivial Pursuit Sport 10m, 3

Start 2 metres right of Monopoly: Climb into the scoop and comfortably clip the RB. Friction up the slab to reach sloping holds, continue smearing upwards and mantle shelf onto the holds. Stand up and clip the next RB. Move left to lower off Monopoly Both Monopoly & Trivial Pursuit are both excellent practise pieces for the harder slab climbs to the left. 10 metres to the right of these climbs is a pathway that descends to Angels Buttress and also another pathway upwards that joins the Cathedral descent path. To reach the Cathedral descent path climb upwards 10 metres right of Trivial Pursuit and follow the yellow and white insulation tape bands to reach the main access path

FA: Michael Combley & Andrew Rigden, 2013

69
18 ** Boot Flake Sport 6m, 2

Fun layback. Named after the hole at the base where I lost a brand new Miura. Start 20m R of Trivial Pursuit and 1m left of 'Oh the Humidity" at wide crack.

FA: mikl, 2013

70
16 * Oh the Humidity Trad 6m

Nice thin crack. Start about 12m uphill from Wire Brush and Dettol. Up crack to 2 ring lower-off.

FA: Stu Dobster, 2012

71

About 40m right of MP is a giant flake leaning against the cliff, forming an overhung wide layback corner. Undercling the wide crack then walk left 4m and up the wall to anchor. Careful belaying is needed to keep you off the ledeg on the bouldery crux. Use a screwgate on the bolt. It was originally graded 18 and had two 70's toproping bolts in it.

FA: Mike Law, 2011

72
? Arete project Unknown 12m

Short arete 2m right of WB+D

73
20 * Tourniquet Trad 18m

Learn to offwidth and remove ugly excess skin! 8m further right around the arete is an offwidth.

Stick clip BR at 4m and up past another bolt to hand crack and gear to lower-off.

FA: Stu Dobbie, 2011

74
18 ** Buffalo Bum Trad 18m

The hand and fist crack 1m right of Tourniquet. Step in from right. Good stuff, eats cams. Lower-off on left as for Tourniquet

FA: Mike Law, 2011

75
21 ** Nutter in a Gutter Trad 15m

Funky groove and neat face climbing. Up crack 8 m R of Buffalo Bum to ledge, step R 1.5m and up wall to jugs then left to crack

FA: Gareth Downey, 2013

76
20 *** Wench in a Trench Mixed 18m, 2

Wide crack 8m right of Buffalo Bum

Past 2 RBs, then nice through bulge at top to loweroffs. Nuts and cams for top section; you can also get some gear in the break before the 2nd bolt.

FA: Stu Dobbie & Enmoore Lin, 2011

77
24 *** Boffin in a Coffin Sport 12m, 4

Epic offwidth through roof 8m right of Wench. Offffffwidth into sport climbing crux on wall.

FA: Mike Law, 2011

78
22 * Tweedlebum Trad 10m

Start 10m R of Boffin in a Coffin. Up to roff and up. Wide

FA: mikl, 2011

79
6 * Gumboot Ridge Sport 12m, 3

Easiest sport route in town? A good beginner's route. Walk down and R 10m from Wire Brush and Dettol, then down the Right side of a boulder. Walk climb the ridge.

FA: mikl, 2013

80
12 ** Plimsole Line Sport 15m, 3

Another easy beginner's slab climb up the slab right of Gumboot Ridge: Start at the lowest point of the slab and follow the line of RB's trending left to the single RB belay at the top.

FA: Michael Combley & Andrew Rigden (Solo), 2013