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Almost the entire wall is the work of Claw. He must have been working at the nuclear Reactor nearby at the time but he skidded all over this slab and sunk a fair few BR's into it. Most people do the two routes on the far right, Mr. Squiggle (20) and Ms Pat (18). Mike's Glacis (29) is something for the budding crack hard man and has featured in Rock Magazine as one of the hardest slabs in Oz.I still have no idea how he did it. There are a few good beginner's routes over on the right end, and a great collexction of crack climbs too. Bring a brush to clean these routes up before you jump on them and don’t forget your mosquito repellent!
This area is now cleaning up nicely, the paths are becoming well established and the lower slab is a great jumping off place for a swim (The last shark death in this river was 1946!)
Access issues inherited from Sutherland
There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.
Top access: From the bottom of Shackel Road Bangor, walk down the main path for about 3 minutes to a line of white and yellow tapes (about 30m past a prominent vertically bedded small boulder 10m from the track) that heads off on the left hand side of the path that lead across the hillside for 100m to a descent about 15m R of Mr Squiggle. From the main cliff, head right to the Tarmac Traverse area, walk right (facing in) about 20m the first climb (Isis). Alternatively, descend to the main cliff and head out right (Facing the cliff until you hit the slabs)
Ethic inherited from Sutherland
There are no real ethics in Sydney, ethics were surrended to the Riobi and Hilti crews in the 1990's. It is common that people retro-bolt. Places like Bonnet Bay, Wastelands and Heathcote being good examples. In recent times, old routes have been repeated and renamed at places which is a little dissapointing. It would be sad to see the crags grid locked with rings.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)