Bangor West Rock climbing62 routes in area
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This crag and these routes have been climbed over for more than thirty years. It remains, I am sure, the central point of Shire climbing and the climbing nursery for the area. Why? Easy access, lots of bolts and a close proximity of routes at mild grades, means the general climbing public are cared for. The trade routes like Andrews Bulge (16), Fixed Steps (19), My Girl (23) and Whorl (17) are extremely popular. A novel way to enjoy the crag, or a future goal to achieve, is to tick all of the routes in a day. I have noticed some of the new routes are old routes from the 1980’s. I think every bit of rock has been well and truly climbed on but try telling that to a kid with a drill seeking immortality. Being popular also means it attracts the rubbish so please take your energy bar rappers and your belay slaves with you.
Take salt because you or one of your buddies will most definitely get attacked by leaches.
Access issues inherited from Sutherland
There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.
To get there park at the end of Arunta Close, and walk down the fire trail between the houses. The decent gully is just to the right as you walk towards the river. It's a hop, skip, and a jump to get down, so be careful! Alternatively If you can't get down the gully safely, walk to your left for about 30m where you will find two ring bolts perfect for rapping in on. But be warned, ascending up with a heavy pack is not easy so only rap in if you need to.
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Fun jug pulling up steep wall on far right end of crag. Four u-bolts. Very well protected but has no lower-off.
Marked TW. Classic featured wall with awesome giant thread in the middle. Ringbolt to start, then sling the giant thread, then one more ringbolt to the top and clip-and-go lower-off. For the full value tick mantle out onto the top and belay off u-bolts a few metres back. Rebolted 2015.
Start: A deep crack approximately 1m left of \"Dorothy May\"
The line of very shiny but dubious rings on right side of this buttress with an undercut start. Lots of slopers. Single bolt lower-off.
Hard undercut start then up on good edges and slopey pockets. Easier for those with gibbon arms.
FA: Mat Hutchins-Read, 2015
Great sustained wall climbing up sloping dishes. Tricky rounded top out, or cheat and lower-off the top anchors.
Rebolted August 2015.