Main Area Rock climbing61 routes in area
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This crag and these routes have been climbed over for more than thirty years. It remains, I am sure, the central point of Shire climbing and the climbing nursery for the area. Why? Easy access, lots of bolts and a close proximity of routes at mild grades, means the general climbing public are cared for. The trade routes like Andrews Bulge (16), Fixed Steps (19), My Girl (23) and Whorl (17) are extremely popular. A novel way to enjoy the crag, or a future goal to achieve, is to tick all of the routes in a day. I have noticed some of the new routes are old routes from the 1980’s. I think every bit of rock has been well and truly climbed on but try telling that to a kid with a drill seeking immortality. Being popular also means it attracts the rubbish so please take your energy bar rappers and your belay slaves with you.
Take salt because you or one of your buddies will most definitely get attacked by leaches.
To get there park at the end of Arunta Close, and walk down the fire trail between the houses. The decent gully is just to the right as you walk towards the river. It's a hop, skip, and a jump to get down, so be careful! Alternatively If you can't get down the gully safely, walk to your left for about 30m where you will find two ring bolts perfect for rapping in on. But be warned, ascending up with a heavy pack is not easy so only rap in if you need to.
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Start: A deep crack approximately 1m left of \"Dorothy May\"
The line of very shiny but dubious rings on right side of this buttress with an undercut start. Lots of slopers. Single bolt lower-off.
The line of carrots up the middle of this wall. Tricky rounded top out. First bolt is quite high.
Worthless. No Protection. There are TR bolts if you must climb this junk.
Start: The ramp just near where the descent gully comes out.
Marked NFM. Up to RB then leftwards past two carrots to top. Hard first move then easy top.
Start: 5m left of R, just under arete.
Blast directly up reachy wall. No McDougal start - go direct or try something else. Three ringbolts.
Start: Starts 3m left of KK.