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Description

This crag and these routes have been climbed over for more than thirty years. It remains, I am sure, the central point of Shire climbing and the climbing nursery for the area. Why? Easy access, lots of bolts and a close proximity of routes at mild grades, means the general climbing public are cared for. The trade routes like Andrews Bulge (16), Fixed Steps (19), My Girl (23) and Whorl (17) are extremely popular. A novel way to enjoy the crag, or a future goal to achieve, is to tick all of the routes in a day. I have noticed some of the new routes are old routes from the 1980’s. I think every bit of rock has been well and truly climbed on but try telling that to a kid with a drill seeking immortality. Being popular also means it attracts the rubbish so please take your energy bar rappers and your belay slaves with you.

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Approach

To get there park at the end of Arunta Close, and walk down the fire trail between the houses. The decent gully is just to the right as you walk towards the river. It's a hop, skip, and a jump to get down, so be careful! Alternatively If you can't get down the gully safely, walk to your right for about 50m till you are behind a 2 story white house with blue poles. There is a very easy gully below here.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

A square cut arête 80m right of 'The Whorl'. Surely someone has done the crack.

FA: joe, 2000

Fun jug pulling up steep wall on far right end of crag. Four u-bolts. Very well protected but has no lower-off. Easy top out and set up an abseil on the rings 2m back

Marked TW. Classic featured wall with awesome giant thread in the middle. Up past giant thread (don't thread in case it breaks), then up to clip-and-go lower-off. For the full value tick mantle out onto the top and belay off u-bolts a few metres back. Rebolted 2015.

FA: Dave Humphries

Marked DM. Climb starts approximately 1m left of "The Whorl". Very steep start off cairn into roof then up using handlebar hold then up the juggy arête. 3 ringbolts then right at top to shared anchor with The Whorl.

FA: Dave Humphries

start 1m L of Dorothy May. Jump from boulder to jug just right of crack (Lean Too) and up. 3 rings and lower-off. Previoulsy bolted on coach screws, rebolted Nov 2016

Start: A deep crack approximately 1m left of "Dorothy May" The first 4m direct looks 20 I reckon, probably starts on the jugs of Reno

The line of very shiny rings on right side of this buttress with an undercut start. Lots of slopers. tenuous top-out then set up an abseil off rings 2m back and left to clean

Hard undercut start then up on good edges and slopey pockets. Easier for those with gibbon arms.

FA: Mat Hutchins-Read, 2015

Great sustained wall climbing up sloping dishes. Tricky rounded top out, or cheat and lower-off the top anchors.

Rebolted August 2015.

Bolted line 2m L of Shire Republic. Funkies, pinches, underclings.

FA: Michael Law, 2017

Nose 3m L of A Pinch and a punch. Up and left at 2nd bolt to a tenuous finish. As the bolt is at your feet, you could even wear a helmet on this one.

FA: Michael Law, 2017

flared crack left of Hobbit Nose. when the mossy dripping crack dries out it will be a classic

Set by Michael Law

Start 3m R of the thin crack (KS) at the base of the gully, 3m L of HN. Can stand on tree to clip first runner. Up desperate start, then hard move left through roof (right is right out) and up to slabby top out. Best to rap off the anchors as it will wear your rope a bit.

FA: Patrick Burr, 2017

Thin crack at the base of the gully on the left wall as you walk down, One hard move then up crack and nose on right to easy top out, good gear all the way (you can put a high cam in the protect the start). Double U anchor, best to abseil to avoid rope wear.

FA: Michael Law, 2017

Streno, right arete of gully as you walk down. Sit start and hard top out to rings well back

Set by Michael Law

FA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017

Start about 1m L of Sandstorm by a little layback. Either hard straight up on crimps or (much nicer and easier) up left a move then right following pockets up to break (hand and fist sized cams). Up crack and tenuous slab finish straight above to rings well back. Good gear after start

FA: Michael Law, 2017

Start on ramp as for Rainman but veer right using pocket, hard move to break (hand and fist sized cams). Hard move left into crack and break then up easily.

FA: Michael Law, 2017

Ok trad gear if you look including small cams and a little wire in the 2 vertical cracks, and big cams out left. Start: The ramp 5m left (facing cliff) of the descent gully. Out left and up. easy to set up top-ropes.

Marked NFM. Up to RB then leftwards past two more Ubolts to lower-off. Harder first moves then easy top.

Start: 5m left of R, just under arete.

Marked KK. Middle line on this wall with a couple of funky pockets. Three Ubolts to shared lower-off.

Start: Start of climb marked as "KK"

FA: H. Wallace, 1992

Start right of the ring.

Start well left of bolt then right to lower off.

Start: Starts 3m left of KK.

FA: Matt Portman

Start: Marked. On right hand edge of bulging buttress left of P. A hard start to a good fist sized cam in break, then continue up the arete, staying right of AB. Next break is big so clip one of AB's bolts and finish on AB anchor. Maybe 16V2?

FA: H. Wallace, 1992

Climb is marked with a faded AB. Just right of the crack. Rebolted 2009. 3 ring bolts with lower off. A Sydney classic

FA: Peter Faill

Start: Starts at the crack 0.5m left of 'Andrew's Bulge'.

Start: 0.5m left of GT, Seam (wires)and thread

Up crack 1.5m left of ST, then up of blunt arete.

FA: S turcanyi, 1987

Killer start up to first and only Ring Bolt. Can be done as a mixed route or very very run out sport route

Start: 1m left of Pitted Arete

Rebolted 2009

FA: Steve Turcsanyi, 1987

Starts 1m left of Mars Apple.

Slightly tricky start then up blocky ledges and face. New bolts 2009. 2 carrots on top.

FA: Steve Turcsanyi, 1987

Corner crack left of ZT.

Bouldery start then easy.

FA: Mike Patterson

1m L of MPC. 2ubolts

FA: Dave Humphries

2m left of SIC. 2 rings, shared lower-off with Sports Injury Clinic.

FA: peter farkas, 1989

1m left of TaB.

The grovelly dirty chimney.

The next routes are on the large free standing boulder with low angle roof directly opposite Go Go Gadget.

(Anti-clockwise) traverse of three sides of the detached block downhill from the crag. Starts on left hand end of overhung most downhill face with gymnastic moves following hand traverse line. Round corner and continue along (uphill) along thin wall. Round the next corner, traverse short low overhung face to finish in cave.

FA: N Clow, 2003

The left hand side of the boulder as you face it with your back to the cliff has two bolted routes. Whippersnapper is the RH route. Hard start, then up juggy wall and left to DBB.

FA: Luke.W

Start 1.5m left of Whippersnapper in the squeeze, straight up wall to last bolt of Nana in the dark and on to anchors.

6m left of Whippersnapper

Climb diagonally right & up to the same lower-offs as Whippersnapper.

FA: Luke.W

On the left side of the front of the boulder facing the main crag.

Mantle, then up. No pro.

Start as for Tilba Tilba. Traverse right to 2nd corner above the finish of Monkey Bars, then up. No pro.

Start from the cave under the big block as for Monkey Bars.

Out right through the roof and up orange wall past fixed hangers to U-bolt anchors.

FA: H. Wallace, 1992

Pumpy fun. Start through roof as for Death of a Black Boy then left along lip and up to single U lower at top.

FA: Mikl Law, 2016

Start as for Lucky's Roof then take the right leading bolts direct through the roof as for Felic (avoiding the major roof flake), then climb the seam crack up the headwall just right of Felix to shared single bolt lower-off. The headwall is a bit bold with the bolt spacing.

Start up Lucky's Roof to the 1st bolt then right to lip past 2 bolts (not on easy flake), then left to big flake and hard move up wall

FA: Michael Law, 2015

Start on the small pocket with left hand(not some pile of rocks) then to a ok knob before a monkey along the roof of the cave past RBs to lower-offs. Variant top out via the mantle (21)

FA: Luke.W 2002

The next route starts just left of Christmas Nuts, and is the continuation of the main wall.

Tricky stuff up and around the arete. Probably best to finish on anchors as for GGG. 3 new RBs

Start: On rounded arete

FA: Steve Turcsanyi

Right of MG, at thin vertical seam, battle the bulges, directly up crimpy wall. Originally toproped a bit right at the start.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

Bouldery with Bolts. Up wall to giant U lower off.

FA: Trevor Cooper-Williams, 1992

3 rusty carrots

Just right of ALH, and left of manky BR's of B

FA: Keysar Trad, 1992

Marked, Up wall on new RBs, share RB of D. Just right of corner crack

FA: H. Wallace, 1992

RD on Sydney Rockies reads : Start as for ALH, traverse left & up. Given that ALH is 1m right of In Depth corner crack, its difficult to understand where this "route" is.

From the corner/crack of In Depth (marked 'ALH') traverse right to the arete of Fixed Steps. V4/V5? Technical, very good.

FA: NC, 2003

Corner crack just left of ALH.

On the right-facing wall just left of In Depth corner.

Directly up middle of this little wall, shares anchors with Python.

Not exactly a sport route when there is one carrot 4m up . Really runout easy to deck.

On the left arete 1m left of PD. Up arete past 2 Ubolts to lower-off up and right.

Unknown climb between grandmas wheel chair and python

As Grandma's Wheelchair but climb directly through the cave to give it a punchy and fun start.

Past Python, on LHS of cave.

Up the side of cave, right across the top, then straight up - now fully rebolted.

FA: Dave Humphries

Start as for Grandma's Wheelchair, but straight up.

Just left of cave for GW. Over bulge and up big crack

Start in corner 3m L of Skullduggery, up and right then up rounded buttress finishing on right. Reachy and rounded. There's an old bolt on it, so the obvious offwidth finish has probably been done

Start: Below traverse line, 3m left of S. Groovy move to start, then out traverse line and up arete.

Directly up the wall past RBs to lower off. The best rock at Bangor !

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

Start as for Grotto Crack, past first bolt to horizontal break. Hand traverse R to ring bolt and up flake as for End of the Century. Cams and bolts.

FA: T Meredith & D Burgess, 2011

Corner crack just left of End of The Decade. 2BR out right or can be led as trad. Good varied climbing.

Wall 1m Left of Grotto Crack, hard if you don't use the crack on the left at the 2nd U bolt. Lower off around to left. Beware the old garden seat at the top of this route from which people may throw down rocks and rubbish.

Crack located just to the left of Buzz Boys Beat.

Shares anchors with Buzz Boys Beat

Tricky! Step out of gully and up wall past 3 Ubolts to lower off.

Boulder problem start to Zip from under roof

Shortest stamina route in the Shire. Start up Zip then left along traverse line through roof and up. Right to Zip anchors or backjump (easier)

FA: jeff Crass, 2016

Start on other side of block near gully. one carrot

Start on right, either hard boulder or jump off block to jugs and up R edge to lower off.

FA: vanessa peterson, 2017

Left of racy, hard start and up then R to shared lower off with Racy

FA: Michael Law, 2017

Line of rings heading left on left wall of Slobbery Dog. Lungey stuff

Start on boulder 3m R of Belly Bulge, step on to lip of roof and up slab.

FA: Lexi Law & Michael Law, 2017

Start 1m R of crack, up past 2 Ubolts then left to shared U and lower-off.

FA: Michael Law, 2017

Start on left of crack and up to lower off.

FA: vanessa Peterson, 2017

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