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Description

This crag and these routes have been climbed over for more than thirty years. It remains, I am sure, the central point of Shire climbing and the climbing nursery for the area. Why? Easy access, lots of bolts and a close proximity of routes at mild grades, means the general climbing public are cared for. The trade routes like Andrews Bulge (16), Fixed Steps (19), My Girl (23) and Whorl (17) are extremely popular. A novel way to enjoy the crag, or a future goal to achieve, is to tick all of the routes in a day. I have noticed some of the new routes are old routes from the 1980’s. I think every bit of rock has been well and truly climbed on but try telling that to a kid with a drill seeking immortality. Being popular also means it attracts the rubbish so please take your energy bar rappers and your belay slaves with you.

Take salt because you or one of your buddies will most definitely get attacked by leaches.

Approach

To get there park at the end of Arunta Close, and walk down the fire trail between the houses. The decent gully is just to the right as you walk towards the river. It's a hop, skip, and a jump to get down, so be careful! Alternatively If you can't get down the gully safely, walk to your left for about 30m where you will find two ring bolts perfect for rapping in on. But be warned, ascending up with a heavy pack is not easy so only rap in if you need to.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V9 ** Arête Problem Boulder

A square cut arête 80m right of 'The Whorl'.

FA: joe, 2000

2
18 Egg Rings Sport 15m, 4

Fun jug pulling up steep wall on far right end of crag. Four u-bolts. Very well protected but has no lower-off.

3
17 * The Whorl Sport 16m, 2

Marked TW. Classic featured wall with awesome giant thread. Stay in the middle of the wall and don't get lured to the bolts on the left. Bring a sling for the thread. Beta - http://youtu.be/Y3YrKpNIbEI

4
16 Dorothy May Sport 15m, 3

Marked DM. Climb starts approximately 1m left of "The Whorl". Very steep start using handlebar hold then stay left up the juggy arête on carrots.

5
15 Lean Too Trad 15m

Start: A deep crack approximately 1m left of \"Dorothy May\"

6

The line of very shiny but dubious rings on right side of this buttress with an undercut start. Lots of slopers. Single bolt lower-off.

7
19 to 20 The Shire Republic / A Sport 12m, 3

The line of carrots up the middle of this wall. Tricky rounded top out. First bolt is quite high.

8
12 Rainman Top rope 6m

Worthless. No Protection. There are TR bolts if you must climb this junk.

Start: The ramp just near where the descent gully comes out.

9
21 NFM Sport 8m, 3

Marked NFM. Up to RB then leftwards past two carrots to top. Hard first move then easy top.

Start: 5m left of R, just under arete.

10
21 * Killer's Kidneys Sport 8m, 3

Marked KK. Middle line on this wall with a couple of funky pockets. Three carrots.

Start: Start of climb marked as "KK"

FA: H. Wallace, 1992

12
20 Pyromaniac Sport 9m, 3

Blast directly up reachy wall. No McDougal start - go direct or try something else. Three ringbolts.

Start: Starts 3m left of KK.

13
20 R Dynamic Winter Trad 10m

Start: Marked. On right hand edge of bulging buttress left of P. A hard start, then continue up the arete, staying right of AB. No pro until after the crux. A new single BB so use one of AB's BBs.

FA: H. Wallace, 1992

14
16 * Andrew's Bulge Sport 8m, 3

Climb is marked AB and there is a painted hand on the rock. Rebolted 2009. 3 ring bolts with double bb's at the top, first bolt is quite high. A Sydney classic

FA: Peter Faill

15
14 Get Tracked Trad 11m

Start: Starts at the crack 0.5m left of "Adrews Bulge"

16
10 Side Tracked Trad 10m

Junk

Start: 0.5m left of GT

17
17 Pitted Arete Trad 10m

Up crack, then right side of blunt arete.

Start: As 4 SP

18
21 Mars Apple Sport 8m

Killer start, then up wall passing 1RB. Rebolted 2009

Start: 1m left of PA

FA: Steve Turcsanyi, 1987

19
13 Zulu Trainer Sport 10m

Starts 1m left of Mars Apple.

Slightly tricky start then up blocky ledges and face. New bolts 2009. 2 carrots on top.

FA: Steve Turcsanyi, 1987

20

Corner crack left of ZT.

Bouldery start then easy.

FA: Mike Patterson

21
20 Sports Injury Clinic Sport 10m, 3

1m L of MPC. 3 manky BRs.

22
21 * Tits and Bits Sport 10m

1m left of SIC. 2 FHs.

23
11 Christmas Nuts Trad 10m

1m left of TaB.

The grovelly dirty chimney.

The Block

The next routes are on the large free standing boulder with low angle roof directly opposite Go Go Gadget.

24
V3 ** Three Sides Traverse Boulder 20m

(Anti-clockwise) traverse of three sides of the detached block downhill from the crag. Starts on left hand end of overhung most downhill face with gymnastic moves following hand traverse line. Round corner and continue along (uphill) along thin wall. Round the next corner, traverse short low overhung face to finish in cave.

FA: N Clow, 2003

25
10 Unknown on block left Unknown 8m
26
13 Whippersnapper Sport 8m, 3

The left hand side of the boulder as you face it with your back to the cliff has two bolted routes. Whippersnapper is the RH route. Hard start, then up juggy wall and left to DBB.

FA: Luke.W

27
13 Nana in the dark Sport 8m, 3

4m left of Whippersnapper

Climb diagonally right & up to the same lower-offs as Whippersnapper.

FA: Luke.W

28
10 Tilba Tilba Trad 8m

On the left side of the front of the boulder facing the main crag.

Mantle, then up. No pro.

29
18 * Voodoo Traverse Trad 15m

Start as for Tilba Tilba. Traverse right to 2nd corner above the finish of Monkey Bars, then up. No pro.

30
22 Death of a Black Boy Sport 8m, 3

Start from the cave under the big block as for Monkey Bars.

Out right through the roof and up orange wall past fixed hangers to U-bolt anchors.

FA: H. Wallace, 1992

31
20 ** Lucky's Roof Sport 5m, 5

Start on the small pocket with left hand(not some pile of rocks) then to a ok knob before a monkey along the roof of the cave past RBs to lower-offs. Variant top out via the mantle (21)

FA: Luke.W 2002

Back to the Main Wall

The next route starts just left of Christmas Nuts, and is the continuation of the main wall.

32
19 * Fixed Steps Sport 10m, 3

Tricky stuff up and around the arete. Probably best to finish on anchors as for GGG. 3 new RBs

Start: On rounded arete

FA: Steve Turcsanyi

33
22 R Go, Go, Gadget Arms Top rope 9m

Marked GGG. Old Top rope problem. Just left of FS. No Pro !

34

Right of MG, at thin vertical seam, battle the bulges, directly up crimpy wall.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

35
23 * My Girl Sport 10m, 3

Bouldery with Bolts. Up wall to giant U lower off.

FA: Trevor Cooper-Williams, 1992

36
20 * B / C Sport 12m, 3

3 rusty carrots

37

Just right of ALH, and left of manky BR's of B

FA: Keysar Trad, 1992

38
20 A Loving Hole Sport 10m, 3

Marked, Up wall on new RBs, share RB of D. Just right of corner crack

FA: H. Wallace, 1992

39
19 Bangor Tiger Sport 10m

RD on Sydney Rockies reads : Start as for ALH, traverse left & up. Given that ALH is 1m right of In Depth corner crack, its difficult to understand where this "route" is.

40

From the corner/crack of In Depth (marked 'ALH') traverse right to the arete of Fixed Steps. V4/V5? Technical, very good.

FA: NC, 2003

41
11 In Depth Trad 10m

Corner crack just left of ALH.

42
19 Python Direct Sport 10m, 1

On the right-facing wall just left of In Depth corner.

Directly up middle of this little wall, shares anchors with Python.

Not exactly a sport route when there is one carrot 4m up and one more another 6m up. Really runout easy to deck.

43
17 Python Sport 8m, 2

On the left arete 1m left of PD.

Up arete past 2 fixed hangers to 2x carrot belay.

44
16 Grandma's Python Sport 10m, 5

Unknown climb between grandmas wheel chair and python

45

As Grandma's Wheelchair but climb directly through the cave.

46
16 Grandma's Wheelchair Sport 10m, 4

Past Python, on LHS of cave.

Up the side of cave, right across the top, then straight up - now fully rebolted.

FA: Dave Humphries

47
14 Get Walking Sport 9m, 3

Start as for Grandma's Wheelchair, but straight up.

48
16 Skulduggery Trad 9m

Just left of cave for GW. Over bulge and up big crack

49
21 End of the Decade Sport 11m, 2

Start: Below traverse line, 3m left of S. Groovy move to start, then out traverse line and up arete.

50
22 * End of the Century Sport 10m, 3

Directly up the wall past RBs to lower off. The best rock at Bangor !

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

51
18 End of the Line Mixed 12m, 4

Start as for Grotto Crack, past first bolt to horizontal break. Hand traverse R to ring bolt and up flake as for End of the Century. Cams and bolts.

FA: T Meredith, D Burgess, 2011

52
17 Grotto Crack Sport 9m, 2

Corner crack just left of End of The Decade. 2BR out right or can be led as trad. Good varied climbing.

53
19 Buzz Boys Beat Trad 9m
54
15 Zip Sport 8m
55
17 Unzip Sport 10m
56
18 Billabong Sport 5m
57
15 Ali Trad 5m
58
15 Slobbery Dog Trad 6m
59
60
16 Head Butte Trad 6m
61
10 unknown on block left Unknown 8m