Topo #4915

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3 * The Whorl

Marked TW. Classic featured wall with awesome giant thread. Stay in the middle of the wall and don't get lured to the bolts on the left. Bring a sling for the thread. Beta - http://youtu.be/Y3YrKpNIbEI

17 Sport 16m, 2 Unlink route
4 Dorothy May

Marked DM. Climb starts approximately 1m left of "The Whorl". Very steep start using handlebar hold then stay left up the juggy arête on carrots.

16 Sport 15m, 3 Unlink route
5 Lean Too

Start: A deep crack approximately 1m left of \"Dorothy May\"

15 Trad 15m Unlink route

Topo #4916

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5 Lean Too

Start: A deep crack approximately 1m left of \"Dorothy May\"

15 Trad 15m Unlink route
6 Shire Riot

The line of very shiny but dubious rings on right side of this buttress with an undercut start. Lots of slopers. Single bolt lower-off.

20 Sport 10m, 4 Unlink route
7 The Shire Republic

The line of carrots up the middle of this wall. Tricky rounded top out. First bolt is quite high.

19 to 20 Sport 12m, 3 Unlink route

Topo #4917

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9 NFM

Marked NFM. Up to RB then leftwards past two carrots to top. Hard first move then easy top. Start: 5m left of R, just under arete.

21 Sport 8m, 3 Unlink route
10 * Killer's Kidneys

Marked KK. Middle line on this wall with a couple of funky pockets. Three carrots. Start: Start of climb marked as "KK"

21 Sport 8m, 3 Unlink route
11 * Pyromaniac Direct Start
21 Sport Unlink route
12 Pyromaniac

Blast directly up reachy wall. No McDougal start - go direct or try something else. Three ringbolts. Start: Starts 3m left of KK.

20 Sport 9m, 3 Unlink route

Topo #4918

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13 Dynamic Winter

Start: Marked. On right hand edge of bulging buttress left of P. A hard start, then continue up the arete, staying right of AB. No pro until after the crux. A new single BB so use one of AB's BBs.

20 Trad 10m Unlink route
14 * Andrew's Bulge

Climb is marked AB and there is a painted hand on the rock. Rebolted 2009. 3 ring bolts with double bb's at the top, first bolt is quite high. A Sydney classic

16 Sport 8m, 3 Unlink route
15 Get Tracked

Start: Starts at the crack 0.5m left of "Adrews Bulge"

14 Trad 11m Unlink route
16 Side Tracked

Junk Start: 0.5m left of GT

10 Trad 10m Unlink route
17 Pitted Arete

Up crack, then right side of blunt arete. Start: As 4 SP

17 Trad 10m Unlink route

Topo #4919

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18 Mars Apple

Killer start, then up wall passing 1RB. Rebolted 2009 Start: 1m left of PA

21 Sport 8m Unlink route
19 Zulu Trainer

Starts 1m left of Mars Apple. Slightly tricky start then up blocky ledges and face. New bolts 2009. 2 carrots on top.

13 Sport 10m Unlink route
20 Mike's Photogenic Crack

Corner crack left of ZT. Bouldery start then easy.

12 Trad 10m Unlink route
17 Pitted Arete

Up crack, then right side of blunt arete. Start: As 4 SP

17 Trad 10m Unlink route

Topo #4920

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21 Sports Injury Clinic

1m L of MPC. 3 manky BRs.

20 Sport 10m, 3 Unlink route
22 * Tits and Bits

1m left of SIC. 2 FHs.

21 Sport 10m Unlink route
20 Mike's Photogenic Crack

Corner crack left of ZT. Bouldery start then easy.

12 Trad 10m Unlink route
23 Christmas Nuts

1m left of TaB. The grovelly dirty chimney.

11 Trad 10m Unlink route

Topo #4921

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23 Christmas Nuts

1m left of TaB. The grovelly dirty chimney.

11 Trad 10m Unlink route
24 * Fixed Steps

Tricky stuff up and around the arete. Probably best to finish on anchors as for GGG. 3 new RBs Start: On rounded arete

19 Sport 10m, 3 Unlink route
33 Go, Go, Gadget Arms

Marked GGG. Old Top rope problem. Just left of FS. No Pro !

22 Top rope 9m Unlink route
34 * Go Go Gadget - 2010 Remix

Right of MG, at thin vertical seam, battle the bulges, directly up crimpy wall.

24 Sport 10m Unlink route
35 * My Girl

Bouldery with Bolts. Up wall to giant U lower off.

23 Sport 10m, 3 Unlink route
37 * Motivated Mob Confrontations

Just right of ALH, and left of manky BR's of B

21 Sport 10m, 2 Unlink route
38 A Loving Hole

Marked, Up wall on new RBs, share RB of D. Just right of corner crack

20 Sport 10m, 3 Unlink route
39 Bangor Tiger

RD on Sydney Rockies reads : Start as for ALH, traverse left & up. Given that ALH is 1m right of In Depth corner crack, its difficult to understand where this "route" is.

19 Sport 10m Unlink route
40 * Arachnology for Kids Traverse

From the corner/crack of In Depth (marked 'ALH') traverse right to the arete of Fixed Steps. V4/V5? Technical, very good.

V5 Boulder 9m Unlink route
41 In Depth

Corner crack just left of ALH.

11 Trad 10m Unlink route
42 Python Direct

On the right-facing wall just left of In Depth corner. Directly up middle of this little wall, shares anchors with Python. Not exactly a sport route when there is one carrot 4m up and one more another 6m up. Really runout easy to deck.

19 Sport 10m, 1 Unlink route
43 Python

On the left arete 1m left of PD. Up arete past 2 fixed hangers to 2x carrot belay.

17 Sport 8m, 2 Unlink route

Topo #4922

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25 ** Three Sides Traverse

(Anti-clockwise) traverse of three sides of the detached block downhill from the crag. Starts on left hand end of overhung most downhill face with gymnastic moves following hand traverse line. Round corner and continue along (uphill) along thin wall. Round the next corner, traverse short low overhung face to finish in cave.

V3 Boulder 20m Unlink route
29 Tilba Tilba

On the left side of the front of the boulder facing the main crag. Mantle, then up. No pro.

10 Trad 8m Unlink route
30 * Voodoo Traverse

Start as for Tilba Tilba. Traverse right to 2nd corner above the finish of Monkey Bars, then up. No pro.

18 Trad 15m Unlink route
31 Death of a Black Boy

Start from the cave under the big block as for Monkey Bars. Out right through the roof and up orange wall past fixed hangers to U-bolt anchors.

22 Sport 8m, 3 Unlink route
32 ** Lucky's Roof

Start on the small pocket with left hand(not some pile of rocks) then to a ok knob before a monkey along the roof of the cave past RBs to lower-offs. Variant top out via the mantle (21)

20 Sport 5m, 5 Unlink route

Topo #3878

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27 Whippersnapper

The following climbs are on the huge boulder separated from the main wall. The left hand side of the boulder as you face it with your back to the cliff has two bolted routes. Whippersnapper is the RH route. Hard start, then up juggy wall and left to DBB.

13 Sport 8m, 3 Unlink route
28 Nana in the dark

4m left of Whippersnapper Climb diagonally right & up to the same lower-offs as Whippersnapper.

13 Sport 8m, 3 Unlink route

Topo #3402

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42 Python Direct

On the right-facing wall just left of In Depth corner. Directly up middle of this little wall, shares anchors with Python. Not exactly a sport route when there is one carrot 4m up and one more another 6m up. Really runout easy to deck.

19 Sport 10m, 1 Unlink route
43 Python

On the left arete 1m left of PD. Up arete past 2 fixed hangers to 2x carrot belay.

17 Sport 8m, 2 Unlink route
39 Bangor Tiger

RD on Sydney Rockies reads : Start as for ALH, traverse left & up. Given that ALH is 1m right of In Depth corner crack, its difficult to understand where this "route" is.

19 Sport 10m Unlink route
40 * Arachnology for Kids Traverse

From the corner/crack of In Depth (marked 'ALH') traverse right to the arete of Fixed Steps. V4/V5? Technical, very good.

V5 Boulder 9m Unlink route
41 In Depth

Corner crack just left of ALH.

11 Trad 10m Unlink route

Topo #4923

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46 Grandma's Wheelchair

Past Python, on LHS of cave. Up the side of cave, right across the top, then straight up - now fully rebolted.

16 Sport 10m, 4 Unlink route
47 Get Walking

Start as for Grandma's Wheelchair, but straight up.

14 Sport 9m, 3 Unlink route
48 Skulduggery

Just left of cave for GW. Over bulge and up big crack

16 Trad 9m Unlink route
45 Grandma's Wheelchair Direct

As Grandma's Wheelchair but climb directly through the cave.

18 Sport 10m Unlink route

Topo #3410

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49 End of the Decade

Start: Below traverse line, 3m left of S. Groovy move to start, then out traverse line and up arete.

21 Sport 11m, 2 Unlink route
50 * End of the Century

Directly up the wall past RBs to lower off. The best rock at Bangor !

22 Sport 10m, 3 Unlink route
51 End of the Line

Start as for Grotto Crack, past first bolt to horizontal break. Hand traverse R to ring bolt and up flake as for End of the Century. Cams and bolts.

18 Mixed 12m, 4 Unlink route
52 Grotto Crack

Corner crack just left of End of The Decade. 2BR out right or can be led as trad. Good varied climbing.

17 Sport 9m, 2 Unlink route

Topo #4924

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54 Zip
15 Sport 8m Unlink route
55 Unzip
17 Sport 10m Unlink route

Topo #4925

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57 Ali
15 Trad 5m Unlink route

Topo #4926

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58 Slobbery Dog
15 Trad 6m Unlink route
59 Rockclimber's Waltz
12 Trad 7m Unlink route

Topo #4927

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60 Head Butte
16 Trad 6m Unlink route