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Description

One of the taller and better sport cliffs in The Shire, and shady for most of the day as it faces south. Routes are generally quite sustained, with superb rock quality and interesting sloping pocket features. The downside is the vegetation and the small amount of routes. Seepage can be a problem after heavy rain. Recent rebolting and rebrushing has brought this cliff back to it's former 80s glory. Top-roping is very easy to setup, most routes you can reach over the edge to ring bolt anchors. This cliff requires traffic to stay clean - so get out there! Better guide and topos on:- http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/confluence/display/nswrock/Lost+World

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.

Approach

To get there, find Koorabar Road in Bangor and park at the southern end of the street. Walk to right edge (west) of little cleared park (through a gate) to fire track behind houses. Walk west along this track for about 60m to a locked gate (on your right) to a diagonal access lane, walk down the hillside (left) to the edge of the cliff. Locate a small corner about 20m west (R facing downhill) with a cairn atop, descend down ramps (Screaming Pretty is halfway down) and turn right at the base and walk 30m to main cliff.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

White Corner Block

The section of cliff immediately at the base of the descent scramble down with a jumble of mossy boulders underneath. The landmark is the White Corner. This whole section of cliffs seeps for most of the year and is prime breeding ground for leeches.

1
18 * Tull's Ball-tearer Unknown 12m

Unknown, supposed to be 55m R (west) of screaming pretty

2
20 * Screaming Pretty Unknown 17m

Halfway down descent on East facing wall. Up to weird finish (added during 2014 rebolt)

3
20 Grunting and Groaning Unknown 17m

Leftwards traverse finish to Screaming Pretty past dodgy bolt

4
24 ** White corner Trad 15m

ABout 6m left of Screaming Pretty at the base of the descent. Thin corner and roof with fiddly but bomber gear. funky topout. Seeps a bit but ok (there's a rock to stand on and keep your boots dry if the ledge is wet). a long nut key is very useful for placing gear off the ledge.

FA: mikl, 2014

Lost World Main Wall

30m left of the White Corner is the most impressive chunk of rock at Lost World. It's tall for Shire standards and has a couple of ringbolted classics. There is also an assortment of other unloved and weird routes on the edges. All these routes are suitable for top-roping, with good trees and ringbolts accessible from above.

5
23 Dirt Trawler Sport 20m, 6

Dirty and thin. Climbs the face on the right side of the prominent arete. Scramble up to vegetated ledge under big roof, out right under roof and then back left onto thin face. Direct up face avoiding the arête on the left.

6

About the best warm up here - but still a bit dirty. An easier variant to 'Dirt Trawler'. Up that route to 3rd bolt then traverse left across sloping horizontal break to arête and up this finish.

7

The big ceiling direct and then up the gritty main arete. Probably grade 28+?

8
25 *** Grass Direct Sport 18m

Direct start to "Keep off the grass", start as for Fun and Destruction for 2m then step R up and through roof and up twin cracks to join KotG

Set by Mikl Law, 2014

9
23 * Keep Off the Grass Sport 20m, 7

Start as for 'Fun and Destruction' then after fifth bolt (above roof), go up to break and R up seam crack above. Rebolted 8/2009

FA: Neil Mahant, 1988

10
23 ** Fun and Destruction Sport 20m, 7

Great sustained and varied climbing from start to finish. Starts on left edge of cave. Up jugs to small ledge, traverse left across horizontal break and up to under bulge. Over this and up crimpy face with a little left trend under 2nd bulge to water-washed pockets. Run it out up easier ground to the anchor. Rebolted 8/2009

Start: About a meter right of the chipped "PT" initial

FA: Neil Mahant, 1988

11
23 * Cat Burglar Sport 26m, 7

A big girdle traverse to get onto the arete. Start as for 'Eudaimonia' to 2nd bolt then big rightwards traversing link-up line eventually joining into the end arete of Dirttrawler varient.

12
22 * Eudaimonia Sport 20m, 6

A great climb up a series of bulges and seams on the left end of the wall. This route was originally chipped in two places, the lower one has been filled so grade has been bumped up. Rebolted 8/2009.

Start: A meter left of the chipped "PT"

FA: Neil Mahant, 1980

13
25 * Superforce Sport 20m

Bloody hard! Start a few metres left of E. Up through roof and step right, hard move past ring and old piton, then up to lower-off (shared with Soup or Force)

14
23 * Soup or Force Sport 15m, 5

Delicate and reachy start coming in the from the left, then through the roof on secret holds and finish up seam on the left line of bolts.

Start: Start as for 'Superforce'.

FA: M Law, 2009

15
23 ** BlockRockin Sport 15m, 5

About 20m L of Soup or Force, scramble up onto ledge. Up and right arete of hanging block.

FA: Mikl Law, 2015

16
22 ** Jam, no butter Sport 16m, 6

Easy start to delicate slab and pumpy jamming bulge. Clip second bolt on bulge with S/G or short draw and you don't need to clip the top dogging bolt. Shared anchor with BlockRockn (hidden flake at the back helps traverse).

FA: Patrick A. Burr, 2015

Hobbit World

50m or so left of the Main Wall is this grey slab, with a couple of shallow corners on either end and a nice looking (blank) wall in the middle. The routes start off a vegetated shelf a few metres above ground level.

17

Shire trad classic. About 45m L of the Main Wall in a R-facing corner starting on a ledge 3m up (there are rungs 15m left below Funk Little Corner). Up past break to balance slab into corner and good gear. Take some finger sized nuts and shallow cams, and a Green camalot for the final move.

FFA: Michael Law, 2014

18
FrictionProj Sport Project

Up wall, roof, and shallow corner 10m L of Hobbit Corner.

19

20m L of Hobbit Corner. wet after rain. Start on right.

FA: Mikl Law, 2015

Western Cave

The last bit of good rock, and quite an impressive cave with a prominent bolted corner with undercut start. This cave can seep quite heavily after rain. It is much faster to access this from the western end by scrambling down below the Bangor cliff.

20
Mikl's roof project2 Sport Project

Right side of cave 10m R of Neils scoop project. Follows roof flake horizontally.

Set by Michael Law

21
Neil's Scoop Project Sport Project 15m, 7

Start on flake in middle of cave. Long traverse left across horizontals, then through scoopy roof and up corner. Closed project - stay off.

Set by Neil Monteith

22
Neil's Scoop Project Direct Sport Project 10m, 6

The direct line through the pocketed roof and then straight up the technical corner. Closed project - stay off.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2015

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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