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Description

One of the taller and better sport cliffs in The Shire, and shady for most of the day as it faces south. Routes are generally quite sustained, with superb rock quality and interesting sloping pocket features. The downside is the vegetation and the small amount of routes. Seepage can be a problem after heavy rain. Recent rebolting and rebrushing has brought this cliff back to it's former 80s glory. Top-roping is very easy to setup, most routes you can reach over the edge to ring bolt anchors. This cliff requires traffic to stay clean - so get out there! Better guide and topos o n:- http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/confluence/display/nswrock/Lost+World

© (bundybear)

Approach

To get there, find Koorabar Road in Bangor and park at the southern end of the street. Walk to right edge (west) of little cleared park (thru a gate) to fire track behind houses. Walk west along this track for about 60m to a locked gate (on ur right) to a diagonal access lane, wak down the hillside (left) to the edge of the cliff. Locate a small corner about 20m wesdt (R facing downhill) with a cairn atop, decend down ramps (Screaming Pretty is halfway down) and turn right at the base and walk 30m to main cliff. To get to the top turn R (west ) and walk along trail near clifftop for 40m to cleared clifftop and carrot bolts (involves a small scramble down to this platform) Rap in from here.

© (bundybear)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
18 * Tull's Ball-tearer Unknown 12m

Unknown, supposed to be 55m R (west) of screaming pretty

2
20 * Screaming Pretty Unknown 17m

Halfway down descent on East facing wall. Up to weird finish (added during 2014 rebolt)

3
20 Grunting and Groaning Unknown 17m

Leftwards traverse finish to Screaming Pretty past dodgy bolt

4
24 ** White corner Trad 15m

ABout 6m left of Screaming Pretty at the base of the descent. Thin corner and roof with fiddly but bomber gear. Seeps a bit but ok

FA: mikl, 2014

5
23 Dirt Trawler Sport 20m, 6

Walk left (fzacing cliff) for 30m. Dirty and thin. Climbs the face on the right side of the prominent arete. Scramble up to vegetated ledge under big roof, out right under roof and then back left onto thin face. Direct up face avoiding the arête on the left.

6

About the best warm up here - but still a bit dirty. An easier variant to 'Dirt Trawler'. Up that route to 3rd bolt then traverse left across sloping horizontal break to arête and up this finish.

7

The big ceiling direct and then up the gritty main arete. Probably grade 28+?

8
25 *** Grass Direct Sport 18m

Direct start to "Keep off the grass", start as for Fun and Danger for 2m then step R up and through roof and up twin cracks to join KotG

Set by mikl law, 2014

9
23 * Keep Off the Grass Sport 20m, 7

Start as for 'Fun and Destruction' then after fifth bolt (above roof), go up to break and R up seam crack above. Rebolted 8/2009

FA: Neil Mahant, 1988

10

Great sustained and varied climbing from start to finish. Starts on left edge of cave. Up jugs to small ledge, traverse left across horizontal break and up to under bulge. Over this and up crimpy face with a little left trend under 2nd bulge to water-washed pockets. Run it out up easier ground to the anchor. Rebolted 8/2009

Start: About a meter right of the chipped "PT" initial

FA: Neil Mahant, 1988

11
23 * Cat Burglar Sport 26m, 7

A big girdle traverse to get onto the arete. Start as for 'Eudaimonia' to 2nd bolt then big rightwards traversing link-up line eventually joining into the end arete of Dirttrawler varient.

12
22 * Eudaimonia Sport 20m, 6

A great climb up a series of bulges and seams on the left end of the wall. This route was originally chipped in two places, the lower one has been filled so grade has been bumped up. Rebolted 8/2009.

Start: A meter left of the chipped "PT"

FA: Neil Mahant, 1980

13
25 * Superforce Sport 20m

Bloody hard! Start a few metres left of E. Up through roof and step right, hard move past ring and old piton, then up to lower-off (shared with Soup or Force)

14
23 * Soup or Force Sport 15m, 5

Delicate and reachy start coming in the from the left, then through the roof on secret holds and finish up seam on the left line of bolts.

Start: Start as for 'Superforce'.

FA: M Law, 2009

15

Shire trad classic. About 45m L of the Main Wall in a R-facing corner starting on a ledge 3m up. Up past break to balance slab into corner and good gear. Take some finger sized nuts and shallow cams, and a Green camalot for the final move.

FFA: mikl, 2014

16
Neil's Scoop Project Sport Project 15m, 7

In big cave about 90m L of the main Wall. Start on flake in middle of cave. Long traverse left across horizontals, then through scoppy roof and up corner. Closed project - stay off.

Set by Neil Monteith