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One of the taller and better sport cliffs in The Shire, and shady for most of the day as it faces south. Routes are generally quite sustained, with superb rock quality and interesting sloping pocket features. The downside is the vegetation and the small amount of routes. Seepage can be a problem after heavy rain. Recent rebolting and rebrushing has brought this cliff back to it's former 80s glory. Top-roping is very easy to setup, most routes you can reach over the edge to ring bolt anchors. This cliff requires traffic to stay clean - so get out there! Better guide and topos o n:- http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/confluence/display/nswrock/Lost+World
Access issues inherited from Sutherland
There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.
To get there, find Koorabar Road in Bangor and park at the southern end of the street. Walk to right edge (west) of little cleared park (thru a gate) to fire track behind houses. Walk west along this track for about 60m to a locked gate (on ur right) to a diagonal access lane, wak down the hillside (left) to the edge of the cliff. Locate a small corner about 20m wesdt (R facing downhill) with a cairn atop, decend down ramps (Screaming Pretty is halfway down) and turn right at the base and walk 30m to main cliff. To get to the top turn R (west ) and walk along trail near clifftop for 40m to cleared clifftop and carrot bolts (involves a small scramble down to this platform) Rap in from here.
Ethic inherited from Sutherland
There are no real ethics in Sydney, ethics were surrended to the Riobi and Hilti crews in the 1990's. It is common that people retro-bolt. Places like Bonnet Bay, Wastelands and Heathcote being good examples. In recent times, old routes have been repeated and renamed at places which is a little dissapointing. It would be sad to see the crags grid locked with rings.
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