Lost World Mostly sport climbing19 routes in crag
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One of the taller and better sport cliffs in The Shire, and shady for most of the day as it faces south. Routes are generally quite sustained, with superb rock quality and interesting sloping pocket features. The downside is the vegetation and the small amount of routes. Seepage can be a problem after heavy rain. Recent rebolting and rebrushing has brought this cliff back to it's former 80s glory. Top-roping is very easy to setup, most routes you can reach over the edge to ring bolt anchors. This cliff requires traffic to stay clean - so get out there! Better guide and topos on:- http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/confluence/display/nswrock/Lost+World
Access issues inherited from Sutherland
There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.
To get there, find Koorabar Road in Bangor and park at the southern end of the street. Walk to right edge (west) of little cleared park (through a gate) to fire track behind houses. Walk west along this track for about 60m to a locked gate (on your right) to a diagonal access lane, walk down the hillside (left) to the edge of the cliff. Locate a small corner about 20m west (R facing downhill) with a cairn atop, descend down ramps (Screaming Pretty is halfway down) and turn right at the base and walk 30m to main cliff.
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The big ceiling direct and then up the gritty main arete. Probably grade 28+?
Direct start to "Keep off the grass", start as for Fun and Danger for 2m then step R up and through roof and up twin cracks to join KotG
Set by mikl law, 2014
Start as for 'Fun and Destruction' then after fifth bolt (above roof), go up to break and R up seam crack above. Rebolted 8/2009
FA: Neil Mahant, 1988
Great sustained and varied climbing from start to finish. Starts on left edge of cave. Up jugs to small ledge, traverse left across horizontal break and up to under bulge. Over this and up crimpy face with a little left trend under 2nd bulge to water-washed pockets. Run it out up easier ground to the anchor. Rebolted 8/2009
Start: About a meter right of the chipped "PT" initial
FA: Neil Mahant, 1988
A big girdle traverse to get onto the arete. Start as for 'Eudaimonia' to 2nd bolt then big rightwards traversing link-up line eventually joining into the end arete of Dirttrawler varient.
A great climb up a series of bulges and seams on the left end of the wall. This route was originally chipped in two places, the lower one has been filled so grade has been bumped up. Rebolted 8/2009.
Start: A meter left of the chipped "PT"
FA: Neil Mahant, 1980
Bloody hard! Start a few metres left of E. Up through roof and step right, hard move past ring and old piton, then up to lower-off (shared with Soup or Force)
Delicate and reachy start coming in the from the left, then through the roof on secret holds and finish up seam on the left line of bolts.
Start: Start as for 'Superforce'.
FA: M Law, 2009
About 20m L of Soup or Force, scramble up onto ledge and slabs and right arete of hanging block. Project
Shire trad classic. About 45m L of the Main Wall in a R-facing corner starting on a ledge 3m up. Up past break to balance slab into corner and good gear. Take some finger sized nuts and shallow cams, and a Green camalot for the final move.
FFA: mikl, 2014
In big cave about 90m L of the main Wall. Start on flake in middle of cave. Long traverse left across horizontals, then through scoppy roof and up corner. Closed project - stay off.
Set by Neil Monteith