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Summary

Extensive collection of highball bouldering or short trad lines (often toproped). Really good rock and gear.

Access issues

Public land

Approach

This area is behind the Woronora Cemetery in the suburb of Loftus. Park at junction of First and Second Avenue at deadend. Jump the metal gate on the right and walk North along the fence bordering the cemetery. Cross a small creek and turn left. Continue on for a hundred meters, ignoring the turns on the left. The track goes up a little rocky hill then goes flat for another hundred meters, Ignore the 2 large tracks on the rightand walk for 100m to lookout over river and park bench. Scramble down and left from the park bench for 50m to crag Easier to turn left off track 40m before the lookout (10m past 2nd track on the right) to scramble down the Lean To gully. It faces south west so gets some afternoon sun.

Ethic

Bouldering fear, trad fear, or top-roping only. No bolts! There are some old bolts at the top, don't trust them! Use trees as anchors and only use the bolts as directionals (if at all).

History

View historical timeline

People have been climbing here for decades and many routes have a small square painted at the base, presumably top-roped. Recently some of the lines have been led on gear like little gritstone routes.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Starts inside a bowl shaped cave

FA: Graham Fairburn

Traverse of The Overlap eliminating the horizontal break. Thin.

Steep juggy arete below The Overlap

Climb out of hole onto slab

Left side of The Overhang Boulder

Left to right low traverse of The Overhang Boulder - finishing up right arete.

Eliminate up the middle of The Overhang Boulder

Weakness up face just right of The Overhang Boulder

Impossible feeling blunt and blank arete. gets easier

Hand crack right of arete

Start at small square 4m L of Lean to. Straight up past good cam break

FA: Michael Law, 2017

Start on wall just left of arete (Lean Too) and straight up past breaks then thin crack (with gear!). Good gear.

FA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017

Best to climb right side of the arete past good cam breaks. . Good gear.

FA: Ian Ryan, 2017

Crimpy up the black column between the two orange scoops to a hard top out Looks much harder than V1.

Wide crack 2m R of Black Column. Closed project- Go Sandy!

Set by Sandy Climber, 2017

Start 2m R of Black column. Left to right across wide crack and into flakes in the ceiling to the right, then up these to a few holds in a scoop. High!

Right to left along the short wall, not using the top holds.

Follow black seam 3m L of Yellow Edge. Good wires at half height which protects the hard move to jugs.

FA: Michael Law, 2017

Good gear and crimps up the yellow seam left of Yellow Edge.

FA: Michael Law, 2017

Good gear but pumpy to place. Up arete and thin crack, step right at top to jugs (as for Zilla). Old top rope route.

FA: Michael Law, 2017

Start 2m R of the arete. Crux by gear then runout finish up seam. .

FA: Michael Law, 2017

Start below seam in middle of wall 2m R of Zilla. Great hidden wires in seam, out left a move and up.

FA: Michael Law, 2017

Start 5m R of Zilla. Up wall left of arete of gully, good sling at top. A thin move as you leave the gear.

FA: Michael Law, 2017

Start behind Freestanding block on right side of gully at Orange wall. Up past glued up hold

In gully behind the freestanding Block, easy crack on right, about 7m right of Wilshire. An old scout's route (Named after SSCC1 at Piddo), first recorded lead. Good gear.

FA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017

Arete right of SSCC11. An old Scout's top rope route. A bit runout at top to small spike runner. First recorded lead.

FA: Michael Law, 2017

Tiny wall left of gully, about 3m R of SSCC11. Good protection, sling at top

FA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017

Start at left side of black wall some 15m R of the Freestanding Block. Straight up, some gear at the top when it gets easy

FA: Michael Law, 2017

Start as for TicTacToe and follow break right for 3m and up seam. Good pro.

FA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017

Runout and easy. start in little corner at right end of Jeff's traverse wall

FA: Michael Law, 2017

Punchy finish above good gear. Climb wall 3m L of Zimmer Crack

FA: Jason Budden, 2017

About 15m R of TicTacToe wall. Up corner and layback roof (big cam). Good gear.

FA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017

Start just right of Zimmer crack and follow good break right and around the arete to finish up Thong Ridge. Good protection.

FA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017

Start middle of wall and up over bulge, then up small cliffline behind. Good gear.

FA: Michael Law, 2017

Start at blank section just left of the arete. Up to good break and onwards.

FA: Michael Law, 2017

Up curved slab on right end of wall, lots of gear. A good route to learn trad gear on.

FA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017

Rounded elephant belly arete 4m R of Thong Ridge and 4m left of fridge Block. Good gear at 40% and at the top.

FA: Michael Law, 2017

Wide crack on LHS of gully left of Fridge left Side. Good gear.

FA: Drew Ivison, 2017

RHS of gully. Unprotectable easy climbing with technical finish.

FA: Patrick Burr, 2017

Easy but run out on the easy finishing moves. Climb the easy left arete of the fridge block, with a good thread at half height and a poor small grey camalot 1 m above the cave in a little hole.

FA: Michael Law, 2017

two big undercling moves and good pro. Start 2m R of arete, up to break, step R to hidden underclings and up leftwards

FA: Michael Law, 2017

Start in middle of wall (white square) below thin seam. Up, small wires protect a hard move then easy to top. Good gear.

FA: Michael Law, 2017

Start in middle of the Fridge block, about 1 m right of white square, up to twin cracks and up finishing crack. Pumpy to place pro. Good gear.

FA: Michael Law, 2017

Pumpy Arapiles classic with good wires. Start and up to seam 1m R of Vincent. Good gear.

FA: Michael Law, 2017

Start up Vasarri then traverse 2m R along lip and up line. Pumpy with good gear.

FA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017

2 M L of Nothing new under the sun (right arete) and the gully. Good gear out left at half height, the right and up. originally traversed left at top .Go straight up over final wall to poor laybacks. Good gear. Pumpy. Best with double ropes as gear is out right and left

FA: Michael Law, 2017

FA: Michael Law, 2017

RHS of the cave, arete facing Ariel Grime. Good pro all the way.

FA: Lachlan, 2017

Lovely left arete of Green Camalot Wall (take 4!). Start on right, I used double ropes so I could clip cams on each side in top break. Many medium sized cams used.

FA: Mikl Law, 2017

Up wall about 3m R of the arete (Ariel Grime) past 2 good breaks to a good jug to sling at the top.

FA: Ian Ryan, 2017

Lovely climbing. Up wall 4 m R of Ariel Grime past ramp. Don't fill the crucial hold with cams. There is a small cam and good sling out left to protect topout.

FA: mikl, 2017

Start on right side of Green Camalot Wall, a meter right of LivingStone. Move left at the top to mantel. Good gear in break and average gear at top (sling, wires cam).

FA: Patrick Burr, 2017

Right of green camelot wall. Middle line at the end of the brake traverse.

Around the corner from the blank wall. Face climbing between arete (nice project?) and worthless crack.

FA: Patrick Burr, 2017

Hand crack int he corner right of the tree. Top out right or far left.

FA: Drew Ivison, 2017

Activity

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