A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Sutherland 645 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.039454, -34.043832

Unique Features And Strengths:

The Shire has a long history of climbing. Accessible cliffs, routes you do not have to die for and a variety of locations keep the suburbanite climbers happy. Because of the not so steep nature of much of the sandstone in the area, a lot of routes are of a moderate grade making it a good place for new climbers to develop their craft.

Description:

Most of the climbing can be found on the rim of the hills, overlooking the Woronora River and Georges Rivers. The rock is the usual Sydney sandstone but the Cathedral has a a weird type of stone that is a refreshing change from the norm.

Access Issues:

There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.

Ethic:

There are no real ethics in Sydney, ethics were surrended to the Riobi and Hilti crews in the 1990's. It is common that people retro-bolt. Places like Bonnet Bay, Wastelands and Heathcote being good examples. In recent times, old routes have been repeated and renamed at places which is a little dissapointing. It would be sad to see the crags grid locked with rings.

History:

Climbing has been going on since the 1960's in the Shire. Gossip has it that an old doctor used to play around the cliffs on the Woronora River in those early years. Joe Friend was also known to climb here back in the 1970's. You can find some old pitons, pin scars at odd locations such as the Heathcote Bridge, Menai area and at the Cathederal. It was common that Scouts and at times the Army regularly frequented places like Menai, Lucas Heights and Alfords Point.

The 1980's saw a steep rise in development with climbers from the Loftus Crew, Anthony Scharnbel,Damian Taylor and Bruce Stevens. A big influence in the 1980-1990's was David Barnes. Dave developed several new areas and put up scores of routes across the shire, including the classic routes at Rainbow Wall and Ruthless Babe and a handful of others at Heathcote. He has now moved onto Tassie. Mikl of course had flurries of activity at the Cathedral, Bonnett Bay and Heathcote when he was working with Homer Simpson at the Lucas Heights Nuclear facility. A Young Graham Fairburn made a good contribution to the Cathederal, before growing muscles at Nowra.

In the last ten years Jason Lammers has added new routes as well as re-bolting the old routes, lower offs and rings have been added to most shire crags now. As of 2010 Neil Monteith has been living in the area so a new chapter of history is a given. What will you add? DB

1.1. Soon To Come 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

Another bouldering crag being developed by Brendon Flanagan.

Details will be posted once development is completed.

History:

This crag was offically developed by Brendon Flanagan during the Great Bouldering Boom.

Chalk Up, climb on and live the dream!

1.1.1. The Front Row 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

Details will be posted once development is complete.

History:

This boulder was officially developed by Brendon Flanagan in July 2013 during the Great Bouldering Boom.

Chalk up, climb on and Iive the dream!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project 1

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2013

Boulder Project 4m
2 A Bridge Too Far

Start at the obvious break in the boulder. Head on up using both sides of the break in a bridging fashion.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2013

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2013

V1Boulder 4m
3 Project 2

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2013

Boulder Project 4m
4 Project 3

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2013

Boulder Project 4m
5 Reversing Trucks Go Beep

Follow the right hand arete up. Don't let the annoying beep of a reversing truck break your concentration.

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2013

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2013

V1Boulder 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Project 4

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2013

Boulder Project 4m
7 Project 5

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2013

Boulder Project 4m
8 Project 6

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2013

Boulder Project 4m
9 Project 7

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2013

Boulder Project 4m

1.1.2. Up In The Nose Bleeds 0 routes in Boulder

Description:

Details will be posted once development is completed.

History:

This boulder was officially developed by Brendon Flanagan during the Great Bouldering Boom.

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

1.2. Bald Face Point 2 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Description:© (nmonteith)

Possibly the worst crag in Sydney. A loose uninviting quarry with an assortment of rubbish at the base. In 'Melbourne' it would be popular - but in Sydney it should be forgotten.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Bald Face Point Reserve at the southern end of Stuart St in Blakehurst. The cliff is directly below the lookout. Scramble down the left side.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Rock Apes

Grade 23/24? Start below large roof crack in middle of weathered wall. Up and out the roof crack. The manky old bolts need replacing.

24Trad 17m
2 baldbearings

Loose and blocky. Start on left side of face, 2m right of arete. Up slab to steeper wall with easy finish. Glue in BRs to DBB.

16Sport 15m

1.3. Oatley Park 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
Description:© (nmonteith)

Very pleasant easy trad climbing in a scenic location perched above the Georges River. An area that has a lot of rock, but unfortunately not a lot that is climbable.

To get to the crag, find 'Oatley Park' in the street directory, and follow the one way circuit (Christensen Drive) until you find Webster 'Lookout' (signposted). All of the listed routes are located below this lookout, and have top rope bolts.

All routes described left to right (facing the cliff).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A 10Unknown 4m David Barnes

All these climbs were fun

2 B 10Unknown 4m David Barnes

A little damp

3 C 15Unknown 6m
4 D 14Unknown 6m Caitlin Hurley 6 years ago

Climbed using trad gear rather than top roping it. Chossy top out

5 E 13Unknown 8m
6 F 16Unknown 8m
7 G 18Unknown 6m
8 H 19Unknown 6m

1.4. Lugarno 14 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:© (nmonteith)

Absolute roadside cragging! A generally slabby and unfashionable cliff with a fair selection of mid to hard grade routes. Many of these routes were heavily chipped in the heady days of the 80s. Most routes are now covered in dirt and lichen and the bolts are of very questionable quality. The entire cliff needs a refresh. Be VERY CAREFUL not to drop rocks onto the road which is literally centimeters from the crag.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

To get to the crag, drive south down Forest Rd, 'Lugarno', and stop about 200m from its end. The cliff is located on the right hand side of the road (watch out for cars).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Giles

Start below the right hand arete of the main wall. "A prominent nose, a bit thin on top.".

24Sport 12m, 3
2 ** Rotpunkt

Start left of G. Up, passing 4 BRs.

24Sport 12m, 4
3 * Prix

Start: Left of R. Up tending right (4 BRs).

18Sport 12m, 4 David Barnes

great slabbing

Jim Croft

chipped

4 Flying Coyotes 23Sport 12m
5 ** All Juiced Up 23Sport 12m
6 ** Git Squelchin' 23Sport 12m
7 Sleeping Women 23Sport 12m
8 * Hit the Bus 24Sport 12m
9 ** Rhythm and Bondage 20Sport 12m
10 Skin 23Sport 12m
11 Mr Plod 20Sport 12m
12 Perpetual Motion 23Sport 12m
13 No Standing 21Sport 12m
14 Perfect Pitch 23Sport 12m

1.5. Alford's Point 30 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 151.027883, -33.986725

Description:

This area was known as a Scout abseiling hangout for many years. Because of its weird access off the freeway it avoided the crowds for years. In the early 1990's the area was visited by Chris Wallace, Dave Barnes and the growing crowd from the new local gym at the time, The Rocknasium. This is when many of the established routes were done. A day underneath the high frquency wires, on a cliff a little larger then the normal shire stone, with ten second access from your car,makes for a good day out.

Approach:

The crag is located on the eastern side of Alford's Point Rd, south of the Alford's Point Bridge. The new bridge and road works have changed access. Park in Maxwell Close and walk back (north) along the bike path along Alford's Point Rd for a couple of hundred meters until you see a thin concrete pillar 1m high in the bush with white and blue stickers, and extensive views out east over the river. The crag is below. There is an easy scramble down to the base at the southern end of the cliff (right hand, facing river). Sometimes there is a hermit living in the cave near "Green Frogs and Liver", he is not too scary so say hello! The crag is located within Georges River National Park.

1.5.1. Bridge North Side 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Ada's Classic Traffic Escape 14Unknown 28m David O'Donnell 12 years ago

look at me factor!

David O'Donnell 12 years ago

look at me factor!

1.5.2. Main Area 18 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Green Frogs and Liver

Start: Left of main wall. 2 BRs to double BB.

FA: Shae Constantine, 1994

16Sport 6m Adam Pullen 5 years ago

Sweet finger lock halfway up that turns into a layback

David Barnes 12 years ago

small toy thing

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 No Answers

Start: Below orange streak, left of main wall. Thin and bulgy. Three FHs. Solid at 23.

FA: Chris Wallace, 1993

23Sport 6m David Barnes 11 years ago

This this is shit harder for 23

3 Suburbanitis

Nice wall with a hard thin start and easy finish. Start at big pockets on left side of tall wall. Cruxy thin moves for three bolts to ledge. Up to steep flake with cool, easy moves, then right and up to lower-off anchor.

FA: David Barnes, 1993

18Sport 15m, 6 Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Tricky slightly contrived start.

Paul Thomson 1 years ago

Hard-ish start, then pleasant climbing to the top. The rock is bulletproof, and interestingly fea...

4 Brown Hornet

Start 1m right of S. Stickclip first ring and boulder the bulge at the start to pockets. Trend right for a few bolts then straight up the middle of wall above to shared lower-off with S.

FA: Chris Wallace, 1993

18Sport 15m, 6 Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Great pockets at start then lovely edges up top headwall

Paul Thomson 1 years ago

Haha, I barn-doored off at the start, that'll teach me to get overconfident. Harder start than Su...

5 * Brother Sun

A great wall route with excellent features. Juggy pockets to start, then a few tricky moves to gain big left facing flake.

FA: Unknown, 2000

19Sport 15m, 6 Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Harder than it looks - like everything on this wall!

Rod Smith 1 years ago

Was 18 now upped to 19. Krazy Krag Klean-up Day.

6 ** Sister Moon

2m right of BS. Crag classic up the highest part of this crag. A long featured wall climb with lots of stainless

FA: Unknown, 2000

21Sport 15m, 6 Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Huffing and puffing

Paul Thomson 1 years ago

Sustained. Quite technical and interesting for a short climb, like a serious of puzzles connected...

7 * Cherry

Burly start right of SM, with a bit of a move near the top.

FA: Jason Lammers, Paul Thomson & Neil Monteith, 2013

21Sport 15m, 6 Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Great fun - one of the last big lines of the shire?

Jason Lammers 1 years ago

Get down here for your summer afternoon session

8 * Fabulous Muppet Show Direct Start

Stick clip BR then boulder up and dyno to jug. Continue as for FMS. A softie at 23..

FA: Doug Smith, 1998

23Sport 14m David Barnes 9 years ago

whatever

9 Fabulous Muppet Show

Start: Below arete. 4 BRs to double BB.

FA: Shae Constantine, 1994

18Sport 5m Jay Logan 1 years ago

Sandy fun warm up

Rod Smith 1 years ago

Probably the only true grade on this sandbag wall. Maybe even soft for the grade! Krazy Krag Klea...

10 Mad Bolter

Choss Roof climbing around the corner from FMS.

FA: Unknown, 2000

20Sport 7m David Barnes 11 years ago

dangerous screw ins

11 Necropolis Kidney 18Sport 15m Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Tough for the grade but the holds are all there.

Jason Lammers 7 years ago

another classic alfords snadbag, but very sweet nevertheless

12 * Viva La Papa

Tricky slab, then super orange stone to overhanging corner.

19Unknown 15m, 5 Paul Thomson 1 years ago

Some hard moves past the first bolt, then engaging climbing to the top. The wind/water-polished s...

Jason Lammers 1 years ago

Rad ! Rap clean to save your rope

13 * Vintage Cuvée

Easy start, into nice corner. Pop out the corner and up the nice headwall.

FA: Random Dude, 1902

17Mixed 15m, 2 Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Great easy trad route. A touch bold in the upper corner, but the jugs are all there.

Jason Lammers 1 years ago

Great old skool route from last century

14 Vintage Direct

Straight up as per CV, clip a bolt and follow the seam to rejoin with CV at the last bolt.

FA: 1902

20Sport 15m, 2
15 Show Us Your Form

Easily to roof. Clip hanger and heave yourself up and past.

21Unknown 15m, 3 Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Repeat. Fun couple of cranks over the roof. Needs a rebolt.

Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Not sure if this is what I did.

16 Give Me Souls

Up steeply left and on to the head wall. All rings now.

23Sport 15m, 6 Neil Monteith 2 years ago

If this is the main steep route then it's excellent but super badly bolted.

David Barnes 11 years ago

really fucking hard needs anothwer bolt up high

17 Roof Stalker

Stick clip crappy hanger, up to horizontal flake thingo. Clip a couple RB's in the roof, and then up the headwall. Rings in the roof, carrots on the headwall. Rap clean !

24Sport 16m, 7 Neil Monteith 1 years ago

First move is very slippery in the heat? Bolting is a bit weird on this.

18 Sideline Jack

Right side of rooves. 3 BRs to double BB.

16Sport 14m David Barnes 12 years ago

nice easier climb for belayers

1.5.3. Moonah Road 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Stressed Out 17Unknown 8m
2 Diving Off the Stage 18Unknown 10m
3 Rambozo the Clown 17Unknown 11m Ryan Whelan 7 years ago

needs a clean but was a nice climb

4 Dyno 19Unknown 11m Ryan Whelan 7 years ago

hard start and finish great climb

5 Thin Then Steep 20Unknown 11m
6 Q Ball 15Unknown 11m
7 No Hands 14Unknown 11m

1.5.4. Lomandra Place 4 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Unknown
Description:© (cam)

many projects here.. please respect this

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Underpants on the Outside

Left most route, start under cave to high 1st bolt then up thru the buldges.

FA: Bundy, 2009

20Sport 10m Jason Lammers 4 years ago

Atleast there is a warm up now...

Peter Webster 4 years ago

Very nice. Try not to step left after start like I did though, eze mistake. U'll need a better wa...

2 Bundy Project

Start as for UotO, then up and right past a couple more bolts to a killer finish.

FA: Bundy, 2000

?Unknown 11m
3 ** Cam's 26 with Hard Start 26Unknown 15m
4 * I want midget strippers at my bucks party

straight up slightly leaning wall then continue up arete. hard at start and end. could be a sandbag for some..

Start: left side of crag. outside the cave

FA: cam taylor, 2009

25Sport 13m, 7

1.6. Alfords Point Bouldering 13 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.027010, -33.979303

Description:© (secretary)

A great little overhang made of hard Sydney sandstone plus a couple of slabs in a nice bushland setting overlooking the Woronora River. 'Problems' here are long, pumpy with some interesting top outs, power endurance fitness required here. Home of 'Love Gun' (V10) - one of the best roof problems in Sydney. Recently featured on the bouldering DVD 24-8. The crag gets the morning shade.

Approach:© (secretary)

Location: Find Stringybark Place in Alford's Point, and after about 50m park on the left near a group of boulders. Go down the hill with this feature on the left, after about 25m find a faint track that goes left and down, another 35m and a forked tree at a rough cliff line appears, go left along the cliff line and the sexy cave will appear.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Me

1st problem in the cave.

V3Boulder Daniel da Silva 6 years ago

done previous

2 ** Wet Pants

Same start as Me

V5Boulder
3 ** Jetski Jerks

Start under the roof slighty left of the arete. Make a couple of big moves out past jug at the lip to base of the arete and then straight up where an amazingly huge 'thread' jug awaits.

V6Boulder Jay Logan 1 years ago

Fun climb!

4 *** Stringybark Massacre

Crag Classic! Start on a jug at the back wall and move out the roof, along the sloping shelf and powerfully into the broken corner before heading left and straight up the groove to a thought provoking top-out.

V7Boulder Jay Logan 11 months ago

Got it!

First V7 for me :)

Daniel da Silva 6 years ago

super sweet all a bit techo for me, but i'm just a thug

5 *** Love Gun

Probably the best route of its grade in Sydney! Start right of Stringybark on little shelf left of the corner. crux at start using a undercling then climb through a variety of holds to a hard drive-by moving rightwards and then up into the back-breaking press into the roof and a quick campus through to top-out glory.

V10Boulder
6 ** String 'Em Up

Excellent! Link the start of 'Love Gun' into the finish of 'Stringybark Massacre'. Good moves.

V9Boulder Nick Cormack 6 years ago

wicked pinch, just cant do the top for love gun. there is also a traverse that heads from the sta...

7 ** Strung Out

Link the Start of Stringybark into the 'Love Gun' finish. Hard!

V8Boulder
8 Humpathon

Start on the shelf low and just right of the corner and make powerful move straight up to gain a good hold before taversing left and finishing up either 'Love Gun' or Stringybark. Pumpy and hard for the grade.

V7Boulder Daniel da Silva 6 years ago

nice starting from the l/h side pull after the impossible sit start

9 * Humpathon Direct

Same start as 'Humpathon' but from the good hold in the corner, traverse right to finish up backslam. Worthwhile.

V5 RBoulder
10 Back Slam V5Boulder Jason Lammers 6 years ago

Good down low but dirty up on the head wall.

11 Lift Off

Start right of the tree and climb the chossy wall on crimps and sidepulls.

V2Boulder Jason Lammers 6 years ago

It was there, about 10cm of good climbing.

12 Reward

Start 1m or so right of 'Lift Off' and climb the wall using the obvious pocket. Mossy and chossy.

V2Boulder
13 * Love gun Stand Start

Standing start, straight into the back breaking press.

V7Boulder

1.7. Picnic Point 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Aid
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Chimknee 13Unknown 15m
2 Junk Mail 17Unknown 10m
3 UFA Variant 17Unknown 10m
4 * UFA 17Sport 10m
5 Cranking Like a Lemon 20Unknown 10m
6 Love's a Buzz 21Unknown 10m
7 A M1Aid 10m
8 X Mint Time 21Unknown 20m

1.8. Illawong 23 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad
Description:

This has to be one of the easiest accessed cliffs in Sydney. A dozen very doable and well protected routes for the after work, suburban fix. Skin is a must do, if you can do it?

Approach:© (Zack)

Drive about two thirds of the way down Redman Ave in 'Illawong'. Park opposite number 31. The cliff is located about 10m directly off the road, with descents at either end of the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Butt Ugly with Gravy

Starts just right of the detached block, below a small, bulgy black wall. Up (RB and FH) to BB.

17Sport 7m, 2 Tim O'Mahony 6 years ago

Ugly ugly.

2 Dykes on Bikes (project) 20Unknown 9m
3 Just Dance (project) 23Unknown 9m
4 * Pissing With the Wind

Start on block under low roof. Up and out the left hand side of the steep prow (3 FHs), then up the easy sandy slab above (dodgy BR) to double BB belay.

18Sport 10m, 4 Phil Ward 4 years ago

Strenuous onto the face

5 * Let's Get Ripped

Really weird climbing. Up to first FH on PWtW, then follow flake right through sandy overhang (2 more FHs). Up the arete ridge to rejoin PWtW (BR to double BB belay).

21Sport 10m, 4 Ryan Whelan 7 years ago

bad run out at the top lots of rope drag

Ryan Whelan 7 years ago

good fun

6 Open the Pod Bay Door Hal

Start just round the corner of LGR off detached block. Chin undercut start and follow crack (3 BRs). First move is hard.

FA: S. Tullock, D. Stone, 2000

17Sport 10m, 3
7 * Skin

Best route at the crag! Start below left side of bulging, grey slab. Tenuous arete to start, then straight up the engaging slab above. 3 FHs to triple BB.

FA: Dave Barnes

21Sport 10m, 3 John Thirlwell 4 years ago

Bit of reach required past the first bolt. Bit chossy making for some feet slipping, heart in mou...

Rob Barker 6 years ago

argh - kicked my butt

8 * Bulges

Also excellent! Up right side of bulging slab. Use the arete to start then go left onto slab. 3 BRs to triple BB.

17Sport 10m, 3 John Thirlwell 4 years ago

Great friction climbing

Phil Ward 4 years ago

Fantastic smearing

9 Shlonging the Nurse

Fun layback flake on trad gear.

13Trad 10m John Thirlwell 4 years ago

Not sure where this is supposed to finish

Phil Ward 4 years ago

All a bit dull

10 Dodgy Bolt

Contrived but engaging. Follow 3 BRs (staying left of the crease) to a double BB belay up on top of the cliff (or lower off BRs on ledge 2m lower down).

Start: 1m right of StN

FA: D. Stone, T. Pool, 1992

17Sport 10m, 3 John Thirlwell 4 years ago

Fairly easy, the bolt on the edge is very poorly placed as any biner is going to be loaded over t...

Phil Ward 4 years ago

Rather like the others on this wall

11 Flaky

Up, staying just right of the crease (3 BRs to the same double BB belay). The first BR looks very dodgy.

Start: 1m right of DB.

FA: D. Stone, T. Pool, 1992

16Sport 10m, 3 John Thirlwell 4 years ago

Much like Troada

Phil Ward 4 years ago

Very pleasant

12 Troada

Stand up to face, then move right, following 4 BRs. Same belay as for DB and F.

Start: As for F.

FA: P. Faill, D. Stone, 1992

15Sport 10m, 4 John Thirlwell 4 years ago

Odd start, then straight-forward

Phil Ward 4 years ago

Easy holds are there if you look for them

13 Troada Direct Start

Hand traverse the lip of the roof, then mantle up to join T.

Start: As for T.

FA: Doug Smith, 1999

19Sport 8m Ryan Whelan 7 years ago

bloody rain

14 A (Project)

Top rope only?

Start: Right of T.

?Unknown 10m
15 Chicken Therapy

Start: Inside cave at left-hand corner crack. Follow crack all the way to roof (mid-sized cams), then out and up. DBB at top set back and to the right.

FA: Phil Ward, 2010

18Trad 10m Phil Ward 4 years ago

Strenuous off the ground and through the roof.

16 Olympic Spirit

10m right of CT. Featured arete at right end of chossy cave with two FHs. Really fun steep climbing. Bonus lower-off chain.

15Sport 8m, 2 David 9 months ago

FUN climb!

John Thirlwell 4 years ago

I found this quite a difficult warm-up, but did miss all the holds on the arete

17 Blood from the Territory

Up the slab (2 FHs) to BB.

Start: Right of the right hand crack.

FA: David Barnes, 2000

15Sport 8m John Thirlwell 4 years ago

direct start adds a few grades

Phil Ward 4 years ago

Holds down low are fragile but the top move is totally worth it

18 * Breakfast Radio

Up short seam (dodgy micro wires), then up wall (FH) and arete to double BB.

Start: Right side of arete.

FA: David Barnes, 2000

18Trad 8m
19 B

Up the crack (BR near top), over small roof to chain lower off.

Start: Below incipient corner crack.

?Unknown 10m
20 * Angel 125

Up the crack then out steep section (2 FHs) to double BB.

Start: 6m right of B, below vague crack.

FA: David Barnes, 2000

16Unknown 10m John Thirlwell 4 years ago

Very chossy arete

Phil Ward 4 years ago

A fun roof, pity about overgrown chossy start

21 Just Dance (open project)

Up DOB to FH, then move right following the seam (wires, mid size cam and FH). Up to double BB.

Mixed 9m, 2
22 Dykes on Bikes

Cool features. Below the right hand side of the next arete to the right. Onto wall (FH) and left to the dyke (FH). Up (mid size cam) to double BB.

21Mixed 9m, 2
23 All Fours

A boulder problem starting on small block and traversing right to finish in flake in roof. Located below start of PWW.

V3Unknown

1.9. The Cathedral Woronora 76 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 151.030896, -34.023837

Description:© (bundybear)

The Cathedral just off the banks of the Woronora River in the heart of the Shire. It's is possibly the highest crag in Sydney town with a height of 30m in some sections, with great rock its hard to think why the crag does not get more visitors. This crag has something for everyone from 3star 28's, great sporty little 16s, and possibly the hardest trad climb in NSW.

Approach:© (bundybear)

Maybe the old access, was why not too many dudes visited this crag. With the construction of the new Bangor bypass things have now changed. Instead of the 30min walk along the river, there is now a 5 min walk down a hill to the top of crag, and then a short scramble around to the right (facing the river) to the base of the cliff. This track is still quite new and does not have escalators installed so may be a little rough for the next few months.

'The Cathedral' can now be accessed from Shackel road, Bangor. If coming from Sutherland, drive over the big new bridge over the river, then take the next left into Akuna (as for 'Bangor West' crag), follow this until it turns in to Menai Rd, turn left again into Pyree street, follow this until you are at Bangor school, then left again in Shackel Rd - this goes under the new bypass. Park at the dead end (there is not a parking station installed here so plz try and be nice to the locals). Now follow the track (marked with red and white tags) down the hill to the crag.

Some people may perfer the original access, this involves a longer but easier (flatter) walk along the river.

"

To get to the crag, park in Prince Edward Park in Woronora (or walk down the hill from Sutherland railway station). Cross the footbridge, turn left and follow the track along the river for about 1km. Although you walk past the right hand slabs first, they aren't as obvious as the main wall, which looms above the track about 20m to the right. Bash up through the jungle to the base of the crag. Estimated walking time: 30 min"

1.9.1. Right-Hand Slabs 23 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Top Rope
Description:

Almost the entire wall is the work of Claw. He must have been working at the nuclear Reactor nearby at the time but he skidded all over this slab and sunk a fair few BR's into it. Most people do the two routes on the far right, Mr. Squiggle (20) and Ms Pat (18). Mike's Glacis (29) is something for the budding crack hard man and has featured in Rock Magazine as one of the hardest slabs in Oz.I still have no idea how he did it. There are a few good beginner's routes over on the right end, and a great collexction of crack climbs too. Bring a brush to clean these routes up before you jump on them and don’t forget your mosquito repellent!

Dave Barnes

This area is now cleaning up nicely, the paths are becoming well established and the lower slab is a great jumping off place for a swim (The last shark death in this river was 1946!)

MC 2013

Approach:

Top access: From the bottom of Shackel Road Bangor, walk down the main path for about 3 minutes to a line of white and yellow tapes (about 30m past a prominent vertically bedded small boulder 10m from the track) that heads off on the left hand side of the path that lead across the hillside for 100m to a descent about 15m R of Mr Squiggle. From the main cliff, head right to the Tarmac Traverse area, walk right (facing in) about 20m the first climb (Isis). Alternatively, descend to the main cliff and head out right (Facing the cliff until you hit the slabs)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Isis

Start: 25m right of the main wall.

Up seam to lower off. Powerful moves.

FA: Mike Law, 1990

24Sport 12m
2 *** Glacis

Start: 3m right of Isis.

Sustained and desparate climbing up the twin cracks.

FA: Mike Law, 1987

29Sport 18m
3 * Moss Ghyll Grooves

20m right of G, starting below cracks at left edge of steep wall.

Up the cracks heading slightly left at the top to anchor. Looks easy...

FA: Mike Law, 1990

24Sport 10m
4 * Take me to the Tropics

start as for Moss Ghyll.

A bit contrived. Up MGG then move right and back left to anchors. Looks desperate!

FA: Cam Taylor, 2008

25Sport 11m
5 *** In the Groove

Right of MGG. Super funky pocket pulling. Up the slab laybacking furiously, especially the final wide crack.

FA: Mike Law, 1990

25Sport 15m
6 ** Legless

There are two random old carrots high on this wall between ITG & Legless. Good luck!

Legless - 10m right of ITG.

Stick clip high Ubolt, either batman up rope or pull nasty boulder problem to start, right to corner then up and out right for a move to bizarre Greek dancing boy move at top.

FA: Mike Law, 1991

23Unknown 20m
7 * Spite

Just past the little creek that flows down the face is the Trauma Wall.

Spite - Just right of the creek. A desperate granite slab test piece ( I know that the topo says it's 23). Clean before climbing, stickclip first Ubolt.

Stick clip high Ubolt and go

FA: Mike Law, 1990

25Unknown 15m
8 * Mr Squiggle

8m right of the creek and 5m right of Spite.

Up the fun and increasingly delicate groove and crack. Left a wee bit at the top before moving right to anchors.

FFA: Mike Law, 1990

20Sport 15m, 4 Alex Rogers 1 years ago

Really enjoyed this interesting climb - great fingerlocks / jams on the steeper crack low down, t...

Nick Clow 2 years ago

This climb is great, but spoilt, in my view, by being over-bolted.

9 ** Ms Pat

4m right of MS.

Up the delicate slab to anchors on block. In the 80s it had 3 less grades and 2 less bolts!

FA: Mike Law, 1989

21Sport 15m, 4 Alex Rogers 1 years ago

Got through the steeper lower section okay, but failed after the 3rd bolt. Frustrating, as angle ...

Nick Clow 2 years ago

Taranesque slabbing. Now advertised as 21

10 ** Monopoly

5 metres right of Ms Pat. Climb up onto the hollow sounding flake (RB). Climb the smooth slab (RB) using the small crystals that poke out of the sandstone. Some may require reading glasses to spot the crystals!

FA: Michael Combley & Anrew Rigden, 2013

18Sport 10m, 3
11 Trivial Pursuit

Start 2 metres right of Monopoly: Climb into the scoop and comfortably clip the RB. Friction up the slab to reach sloping holds, continue smearing upwards and mantle shelf onto the holds. Stand up and clip the next RB. Move left to lower off Monopoly Both Monopoly & Trivial Pursuit are both excellent practise pieces for the harder slab climbs to the left. 10 metres to the right of these climbs is a pathway that descends to Angels Buttress and also another pathway upwards that joins the Cathedral descent path. To reach the Cathedral descent path climb upwards 10 metres right of Trivial Pursuit and follow the yellow and white insulation tape bands to reach the main access path

FA: Michael Combley & Andrew Rigden, 2013

17Sport 10m, 3
12 ** Boot Flake

Fun layback. Named after the hole at the base a brand new Miura. Start 20m R of Trivial Pursuit and 1m left of 'Oh the Humidity" at wide crack.

FA: mikl, 2013

18Sport 6m, 2
13 * Oh the Humidity

Nice thin crack. Start about 12m uphill from Wire Brush and Dettol. Up crack to 2 ring lower-off.

FA: Stu Dobster, 2012

16Trad 6m
14 ** Wire Brush and Dettol

About 40m right of MP is a giant flake leaning against the cliff, forming an overhung wide layback corner. Undercling the wide crack then walk left 4m and up the wall to anchor. Careful belaying is needed to keep you off the ledeg on the bouldery crux. Use a screwgate on the bolt. It was originally graded 18 and had two 70's toproping bolts in it.

FA: Mike Law, 2011

18Sport 18m
15 Arete project

Short arete 2m right of WB+D

?Unknown 12m
16 * Tourniquet

Learn to offwidth and remove ugly excess skin! 8m further right around the arete is an offwidth.

Stick clip BR at 4m and up past another bolt to hand crack and gear to lower-off.

FA: Stu Dobbie, 2011

20Trad 18m
17 ** Buffalo Bum

The hand and fist crack 1m right of Tourniquet. Step in from right. Good stuff, eats cams. Lower-off on left as for Tourniquet

FA: Mike Law, 2011

18Trad 18m
18 ** Nutter in a Gutter

Funky groove and neat face climbing. Up crack 8 m R of Buffalo Bum to ledge, step R 1.5m and up wall to jugs then left to crack

FA: Gareth Downey, 2013

21Trad 15m
19 *** Wench in a Trench

Wide crack 8m right of Buffalo Bum

Past 2 RBs, then nice through bulge at top to loweroffs. Nuts and cams for top section; you can also get some gear in the break before the 2nd bolt.

FA: Stu Dobbie, Enmoore Lin, 2011

20Mixed 18m, 2
20 *** Boffin in a Coffin

Epic offwidth through roof 8m right of Wench. Offffffwidth into sport climbing crux on wall.

FA: Mike Law, 2011

24Sport 12m, 4 Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Like rebirth. Squeeze chimney to off width to cut loose crimps.

21 * Tweedlebum

Start 10m R of Boffin in a Coffin. Up to roff and up. Wide

FA: mikl, 2011

22Trad 10m
22 * Gumboot Ridge

Easiest sport route in town? A good beginner's route. Walk down and R 10m from Wire Brush and Dettol, then down the Right side of a boulder. Walk climb the ridge.

FA: mikl, 2013

6Sport 12m, 3
23 ** Plimsole Line

Another easy beginner's slab climb up the slab right of Gumboot Ridge: Start at the lowest point of the slab and follow the line of RB's trending left to the single RB belay at the top.

FA: Michael Combley & Andrew Rigden (Solo), 2013

12Sport 15m, 3

1.9.2. Main Crag 53 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.030694, -34.023839

Description:

This Cathedral, named after the “holy” feature in the centre of the main crag, is a rare find for Sydney suburban climbing. Firstly, it's 25 meters high and the rock is not your average Sydney sandstone which makes for some variety. Secondly, the weird location, the tall trees and the huge mosquitoes give this place a Jurassic Park adventurer like feeling.

People, including Joe Friend, were known to have climbed here way back in the 1970's but in the most part it went underneath the radar. In 1990 two puny teenagers, Kent Heffernan and Graham Fairburn unearthed the place establishing many of the classics. They soon attracted the sharks, Dave Barnes and Mike Law and his band of merry men (and women). Bruce Stevens and his local crew also were working on some hard projects here. There are some wicked cracks to jump on and some technical face and slab routes sprinkled throughout. My favorites are Ozone Action (17) and Hercules (22). There is also a slabby bouldering area on the walk in, described in the SRC guide (below).

There is now a good access route from Menai at the top. P.S. Sorry fella’s, I lost the padlock key to the bracket on Jaded Cravings (23) Doh. However, the padlock does add character to the climb. Have fun. Barnsey

Routes are described right to left as you face the crag.

There is a more up to date guide on:-http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/confluence/display/nswrock/The+Cathedral

Approach:

Park at the end of Shackel Rd, Bangor. Please don't fill up the street and block access for locals. If there are a few cars about then park 50m further up the hill. Locate the track heading down into the bush on the left. It is marked with tape and first heads across the shallow gully, then turns right and heads down through a little rock band. Veer right at the cliff and down and gully then left. The first route is the little corner of Sorcerer's Apprentice.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The Ampitheatre

1 * Sorcerer's Apprentice

The first route on the crag. Funky start to ledge then hard arete. Optional finshing pitch above is a nice 12 onto the summit.

FA: Stu Dobster, 2011

19Sport 10m, 2
2 ** Andromedary

Start in centre of slab 5m R of Sorcerer's Apprentice. Clip 1st bolt (use tree) then left and up easily to loweroff on boulder above (or continue up P2 of S.A.)

FA: mikl law, 2013

16Sport 15m, 4
3 Caesarean Section

3 RB's and Lower Off added 2011.

FA: Richard Sonnerdale

24Sport 10m, 3 Jason Lammers 7 years ago

looks like 18, climbs like 28. shut down town for team shire.

4 *** Prevenge

Bridge up and jump/leap/fly onto hold below first bolt, tall lads can do it direct. Hard moves on big holds to ledge then layback arete up and right to anchor.

FA: mikl, 2013

24Sport 13m, 5 Leith D 9 months ago

Excellent and funky slabbing. Grade 23-24.

5 * Dobster's Diabolical Dihedral

An interresting Vee-crack followed by a layback. Take a few fist sized cams for the top. There's a single Ubolt to lower off, or a top belay on the pinnacle.

FA: Stu Dobster, 2011

18Trad 15m
6 * Layback Crack

Up corner (has been laybacked, but good jambs) then right on outside of cave and up tricky arete.

FA: mikl law, 2011

20Sport 12m Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Great jams to start (whilst clipping bolts?!) then tricky arête.

David Barnes

belay climb

7 ** Bellygood

flared layback seam 10m right of The Layback Corner with humiliating boulder start. Maybe 21V4

FA: mikl law, 2014

25Sport 15m, 5
8 *** Frijidij

Second corner 12m right of Layback Corner. Up corner and up slapping fridge arete.

FFA: Mikl Law, 2013

23Sport 10m, 4 Leith D 10 months ago

Stemming, laybacking, shoulder off-width rest, deadpoint fridge slapping... all within 10m of cli...

Main Wall

9 ** The Quartermass Xperiment

Start 2m L of Head Injuries. Up on jugs and left on smaller holds then back right on no holds

FA: Gareth Downey, 9th May

20Sport 12m, 3
10 * Head Injuries

Start: Below corner crack.

'Layback' up the corner passing new bolts. 'Access' pitch for the other climbs.

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989

13Sport 6m Lee McDougall 1 years ago

awkward

David Barnes

belay climb

11 ** Young Bumblies

Climb HI and head left to flake and steep wall (Rebolted 2011). Best climbed as 2 pitches. Can lower from top to deck (and the second can too)

FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989

21Sport 10m David Barnes

great

12 ** Surface Paradise

Start up Head Injuries and up wall above, powerful then delicate.

FA: Mike Law, 2011

22Sport 20m Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Top half is great. This route is chipped.

13 * Surface Paradise Direct

Up seam right of 'Head Injuries' and up arete to join 'Surface Paradise'. A few weird moves to a sloping ledge above the 3rd Ubolt. The fin on the left side of the ledge is on. Stay on the right side of the arete above to join SP at the break..

FA: Mike Law, 2011

23Sport 20m
14 ** The Dynamic Duo

Start as for JC but head left up the flake and onto the steep wall. to double RBs (Rebolted 2006).

FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989

21Sport 18m Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Great sustained climbing - shame its a bit contrived to stay out of the crack

Christopher 4 years ago

Difficult moves. Worth projecting.

15 * Jaded Cravings

RB's to lower off up right arete of wide crack (and into it for a move). Rebolted 2006

FA: Dave Barnes, 1990

23Sport 16m shaunm 2 years ago

EZ

Neil Monteith 2 years ago

More good stuff. Shame you have to bail into the crack for one move.

16 Success is your Enemy - Bundy Project

LH variant of FiyF

FA: Jason Lammers, 2000

Sport 22m
17 ** Failure is your Friend

Up JC to 2nd bolt, vere right, tricky moves to gain break. Launch out to the headwall above and take the right line of RBs to top.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

22Sport 20m
18 ** Anticoagulant Direct Finish

FA: mikl, 1990

24Sport 8m
19 * Anticoagulant

Desperate! Retro bolted 2011

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989

24Sport 15m David Barnes 25 years ago

good

20 ** Bordella de Merde

The 3 RB's to double RB lower off above A, a great line, the pinch out right is on (rebolted 2008)

FA: Mike Law, 1991

27Sport 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
21 ** Expectorant

Start up corner as for 'Anticoagulant' and 'Hercules' then up through caves to tenuous finish on line of bolts a meter left of 'Hercules'.

FA: Mike Law, 2011

25Sport 15m, 4 Leith D 1 years ago

The grade is for the crux onsight. not particularly hard but spits you off all the same.

22 ** Hercules

Start: Just left of 'The Cathedral' Cave. Clip 1st bolt and then move up and to the left. Continue straight up past some fantasic climbing to lower off. Rebolted 2006, 4 RB and Double RB Lower Off.

FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989

22Sport 15m Leith D 1 years ago

Pumped. Engaging climb.

David O'Donnell 6 years ago

nice bolting simple.

23 ** Hercules Direct Finish

Was always hard for 23 for a move, then easy slabbing to the top. Pre-clipping the anchor with a sling loses 2 grades, and all your self-respect. From the double RB's on 'Hercules', blast up, 2 RB's to double RB lower off (rebolted 2008)

FA: Mike Law, 1990

23Sport 22m Danger Innes 1 years ago

only 5 moves more than H. just couldnt get past the match crimp before anchors. another time.

schnoigman

Good finish to H

24 *** Imogen

Start just left of Cathedral Cave. Up blunt arete. Way cool rock climbing. A softie at 21, get on it.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2008

21Sport 15m Leith D 9 months ago

Giving this bad boy 22. New start keeps things on the left face only.

Leith D 10 months ago

Nice climb with a couple rad moves

25 *** Imogenation

Thin cranking, DF to Imogen

FA: mikl, 2013

25Sport 22m, 11 Leith D 9 months ago

Great to see this get sent this afternoon.

26 ** Fat Crack

Streno thrash, great fun. Essential before a trip to Frog Buttress or Yosemite.The crux section had previously been done as part of The Shute. Medium wires, finger to hand cams and a fist cam above the thread and one for the top chimney.

FA: mikl law, 2013

21Trad 22m
27 Axe Grinder

A route on its own and the final meters of 'The Shute'. Probally a bit of a pain to get to. Rap in from trees on top of cliff and climb out. " I would not trust the old rusty carrots for the hanging belay, but there are some new RBs you could setup a hanging belay with some slings of different sizes. " 3 RB to Double RB lower off. Nice and airy up there.

FA: Dave Barnes, 1989

15Sport 8m Jason Lammers 7 years ago

New bolts with Lower Offs, this is now the final section of new Project. Now with new bolts, can ...

David Barnes 25 years ago

We used to enjoy it I would not trust the bolts now

28 ** BBB - Direct Finish - CLOSED PROJECT

The obvious extension to BBB that now has an extra bolt and strangely enough it now seems do-able. CLOSED PROJECT

FA: 2000

Set by Jason Lammers, 2013

Sport Project 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
29 Bundy's been bolting

Start just left of the Cathedral cave. Only 20, if you dont do the last move. Direct extension is open project.

FA: Lord Bundy, 2007

20Sport 15m, 6 Lee McDougall 1 years ago

Pumped out over the lip

David O'Donnell 5 years ago

I cheated, french style

30 * The Shute

Up BBB, then stem up the crack and right into AG. A committing adventure

FA: Cameron Taylor, 2000

23Sport 25m
31 ** Bora

Pumpy pumpy pumpy. Up right side of cave and traverse lip then up groove and wall to top.

FA: Mike Law, 2011

24Sport 25m Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Six chipped holds in row - but still a a classic! Steep pocket pulling with the infamous bowling ...

32 ** Wacky Tabacci

If you like this sort of thing, this is the sort of thing you'll like. A classic with exposed climbing on good holds with 'sporting' pro, but there are a few chimney moves so long pants recommended. The obvious chimney to the right of The Cathedral cave. Up then use jugs on right arete. Above chokstone/roof thing, step around left arete and up to lower off. Technically easy but pretty out there, better to be overgraded than a sandbag I suppose....

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989

19Sport 25m Matt Minus 9 months ago

Great chimney!

Matt Short 11 months ago

I loved this climb. Very interesting chimneying most of the way up.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
33 ** Retro Crack

The bolted crack line 1.5m left of 'Get Out of Town'. Mostly laybacking and climbing the left arete (as for Mystery 18), but a jamb or two may be needed. Could be lead on large natural gear if you don't like Ubolts

FA: Mike Law, 2011

20Sport 25m Matt Short 11 months ago

Great line with good but sharp jamming to start followed by solid laybacking.

34 * Get Out of Town

Start on face 1m right of V. Hard of the ground to RB (20), and trad up to pea pod. Move right and clip the chain on IG then right again to join line on new RBs to top off cliff and double RB lower off.

FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989

18Trad 25m Ben Jenga 2 years ago

I think this is the right climb. Tricky steep hand jam start then nice climbing.

Ryan Whelan 7 years ago

one rest at the start, a tough 18

35 Vitez

Start in the corner crack.

Follow this up and over a bulge to the pea pod. Chimney up this and follow the crack to the top. A few RB's and good gear. Also a good left finish up the layback crack past bolts, about 17.

FA: P. Farkas, 1989

18Trad 25m Matt Short 11 months ago

Great climb with plenty of jamming at the start and then good crack climbing to follow.

Steven Martin 7 years ago

some bad rock but varied climbing

36 Stainless Mystery

Bolted by Aliens who invaded the shire in the early 2000's. An alternative left hand variant finish to the previous routes starting halfway up the wall. Start up GOOT or 'Vitez' and traverse left in break at 10m. Climbs a faint arête just left of the corner. Lots of glue-in carrots.

FA: Hill's Alien visitation crew from TJF, 2000

18Trad 30m
37 * Vitez LH finish / Vitez (Flake Variant finish)

Up V, then, step left onto flake above peapod and past 2 ring bolts to top.

17 to 18Trad 25m James 9 months ago

First proper pitch of Aid! With a top rope backup while I work out my systems. Mostly cams, but ...

38 * Inchworm Groove

This one is for the hard nuts, the hardest trad line in shire, and possibly NSW. Start: Below the thin seam, tenuous come desperate moves up the groove to lower off chain at half height or easily to top up anything nearby. Take small gear.

FA: Mike Law, 1990

27Trad 8m James 9 months ago

Two thirds of the way up before it starts proper pouring. Have to get back on it. Mostly small wi...

Ben Jenga 2 years ago

A Stella line with great moment and solid gear where you need it. I had the man himself down at ...

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
39 ** Ozone Action

Sydney Classic at the grade! Rebolted in 2006, but still not a sport route. Start: Below the obvious water groove / flake feature. Follow the flake line / water groove past a couple of RBs, sling the top of the feature and take a well earned rest. Blast up to top past a run out section (gear possible no3 and 1.5 friends) then clip another RB on the way to shared lower off with CF (or top out and rap off the big tree).

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989

17 RMixed 20m, 3 Leith D 1 years ago

Slip

Leith D 1 years ago

Got some trusty beta for the start and went on to the top.

40 * Creature Feature

As for OA until for the 1st section. Then clip RB on left and move to the left up the thin slab past 3 new RB to lower offs. Rebolted 2006

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989

23Sport 20m James 9 months ago

Hard move getting onto the slab. Needs one more bolts down low.

Lauren Chandler 5 years ago

So very slabby.....

41 ** Gutterfingers

Excellent climbing finishing in strange laybacking up a runnel. Once again, almost a sport climb if you carry a sling for the big jug above the second bolt on OA. As for OA for 10m (past 2 RBs and a sling runner). Then move left (bolt) and straight up the thin slab above, move left to lower off.

FA: Vanessa Peterson, 2011

21Sport 20m Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Repeat. Excellent runnels. One of the best in Sydney.

Nick Clow 2 years ago

techy and balancy for a couple of moves. Great.

42 * Jack and the Beanstalk

climb wobbly tree and then finish up one of the routes above Tarmac Traverse.

14Unknown 8m Matt Short 11 months ago

Very interesting climb up the tree, it gets a bit wobbly at the top

David Barnes 25 years ago

I broke the tree!

43 Guerrilla Warfare 14Unknown 8m Tim Harris 18 years ago

easy top rope, climbed with Guy Roubicek

David Barnes 25 years ago

I did em before broken tree did them in

44 Ghostrider

The short hard little problem under NN. Hard start to pocket then crimp your way to the chain under NN.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2006

22Sport 8m

Tarmac Traverse

45 Aero Arete

Start: Just right of arete, use pro as for OA.

FA: Steve Turcsanyi, 1989

13Trad 8m Alex Rogers 1 years ago

Did this as a combination with Suicidal Tendencies. Lovely little route up the arete, and opens u...

46 Suicidal Tendencies

One more accross, 3 BRs.

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989

16Sport 8m Alex Rogers 1 years ago

Combined this (somewhat squeezed in) route with the arete to the left, making an easier but much ...

John Thirlwell 3 years ago

nicer moves out left

47 Cathedral Quack

The next one along to the left. Another fun climb !

FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989

16Sport 8m Alex Rogers 1 years ago

Nice slabby edging, well protected

John Thirlwell 3 years ago

general slabby climbing

48 Neuron Nerd

Start from the chains, and up past three BR's

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989

16Sport 8m Matt Short 11 months ago

Good climbing up the slab, the start felt a bit hard.

Alex Rogers 1 years ago

Fun, short, well protected

49 Cosmic Cruncher

FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989

16Sport 8m Matt Short 11 months ago

Good thin climbing up the slab.

Alex Rogers 1 years ago

I didn't find this any worse than the others on this face - not bad, well protected, not dirty, a...

50 Tarmac Traverse

The access pitch for the next 5 climbs. Start from bunch of small trees. The obvious low angle slab leading left across the middle of the wall to a rap chain.

FA: Captain Cook

6Sport 10m John Thirlwell 3 years ago

need to do it to get to the starts of the 4x16s

Phil Ward 3 years ago

This 'route' is merely the approach for the other climbs - I'm amazed it even gets a name!

51 Shoot That Dog

The tricky looking Chimney

FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989

14Trad 10m
52 * Mushroom Mantle

Start below flake. Up the flake with a bizarre mantle near the top. 4 Ubolts and lower-off. (Rebolted 2011)

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989

20Sport 12m Matt Short 11 months ago

Nice climb but took a while to work out the Mantle move.

53 * Cranking Like a Demon

Start left of descent chimney. Up slab and bulge (4 Ubolts) to lower off. (Rebolted 2011)

FA: Mike Law

24Sport 12m David Barnes 25 years ago

Little graham Fiarburne and Kent heffernan did all these slab climbs

1.10. Bangor West 76 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.034596, -34.024082

Description:© (secretary)

Popular sandstone crags that remain in the shade until late afternoon. The main crag is shorter easier routes, whilst 'Lost World' is longer and harder.

1.10.1. Main Area 61 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.034604, -34.024087

Description:

This crag and these routes have been climbed over for more than thirty years. It remains, I am sure, the central point of Shire climbing and the climbing nursery for the area. Why? Easy access, lots of bolts and a close proximity of routes at mild grades, means the general climbing public are cared for. The trade routes like Andrews Bulge (16), Fixed Steps (19), My Girl (23) and Whorl (17) are extremely popular. A novel way to enjoy the crag, or a future goal to achieve, is to tick all of the routes in a day. I have noticed some of the new routes are old routes from the 1980’s. I think every bit of rock has been well and truly climbed on but try telling that to a kid with a drill seeking immortality. Being popular also means it attracts the rubbish so please take your energy bar rappers and your belay slaves with you.

Take salt because you or one of your buddies will most definitely get attacked by leaches.

Approach:

To get there park at the end of Arunta Close, and walk down the fire trail between the houses. The decent gully is just to the right as you walk towards the river. It's a hop, skip, and a jump to get down, so be careful! Alternatively If you can't get down the gully safely, walk to your left for about 30m where you will find two ring bolts perfect for rapping in on. But be warned, ascending up with a heavy pack is not easy so only rap in if you need to.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Arête Problem

A square cut arête 80m right of 'The Whorl'.

FA: joe, 2000

V9Boulder
2 Egg Rings

Fun jug pulling up steep wall on far right end of crag. Four u-bolts. Very well protected but has no lower-off.

18Sport 15m, 4 Chris Wallace 10 months ago

Nice climb, pocket near the top can be full of water, also bring two long 30/60cm draws to reduce...

Alex Rogers 1 years ago

Great fun, a bit soft for the grade. Used lower-offs (2x carrots) on The Whorl, which worked fine.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 * The Whorl

Marked TW. Classic featured wall with awesome giant thread. Stay in the middle of the wall and don't get lured to the bolts on the left. Bring a sling for the thread. Beta - http://youtu.be/Y3YrKpNIbEI

17Sport 16m, 2 Alex Rogers 1 years ago

Good fun. Amazing feature in centre of climb - good for hands off rest but don't break it!

Lee McDougall 1 years ago

Pretty worthless when its covered in water

4 Dorothy May

Marked DM. Climb starts approximately 1m left of "The Whorl". Very steep start using handlebar hold then stay left up the juggy arête on carrots.

16Sport 15m, 3 Phil Ward 4 years ago

Certainly not a 16 start!

Cam 5 years ago

Great Start

5 Lean Too

Start: A deep crack approximately 1m left of \"Dorothy May\"

15Trad 15m Jason Lammers 10 years ago

crud

6 Shire Riot / Line of rings off block

The line of very shiny but dubious rings on right side of this buttress with an undercut start. Lots of slopers. Single bolt lower-off.

20Sport 10m, 4 Jason Lammers 6 years ago

Could not do the start 4 years ago... Still hard 2day.

7 The Shire Republic / A

The line of carrots up the middle of this wall. Tricky rounded top out. First bolt is quite high.

19 to 20Sport 12m, 3 Chris Yeomans 8 years ago

Bouldery start to straight forward wall / arete

Jason Lammers 10 years ago

nice

8 Rainman

Worthless. No Protection. There are TR bolts if you must climb this junk.

Start: The ramp just near where the descent gully comes out.

12Top rope 6m Andrew Helin 9 years ago

Yeah

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 NFM

Marked NFM. Up to RB then leftwards past two carrots to top. Hard first move then easy top.

Start: 5m left of R, just under arete.

21Sport 8m, 3 Phil Ward 4 years ago

Rebolted since the SSS guide, now an awesome reachy climb.

Jason Lammers 10 years ago

bomber nut between bolts. Nice

10 * Killer's Kidneys

Marked KK. Middle line on this wall with a couple of funky pockets. Three carrots.

Start: Start of climb marked as "KK"

FA: H. Wallace, 1992

21Sport 8m, 3 Phil Ward 4 years ago

Punchy thin, reachy moves.

Ryan Whelan 7 years ago

i don't remember it being hard

11 Pyromaniac Direct Start 21Sport Nick Clow

OS

12 Pyromaniac

Blast directly up reachy wall. No McDougal start - go direct or try something else. Three ringbolts.

Start: Starts 3m left of KK.

20Sport 9m, 3 Chris Wallace 10 months ago

An ok climb, it really has three cruxes, the first move, getting to the third bolt and topping out.

Rod Smith 4 years ago

Stuffed up the start. Second time clean. With Dave.

13 Dynamic Winter

Start: Marked. On right hand edge of bulging buttress left of P. A hard start, then continue up the arete, staying right of AB. No pro until after the crux. A new single BB so use one of AB's BBs.

FA: H. Wallace, 1992

20 RTrad 10m Nick Clow 10 years ago

regular solo

14 * Andrew's Bulge

Climb is marked AB and there is a painted hand on the rock. Rebolted 2009. 3 ring bolts with double bb's at the top, first bolt is quite high. A Sydney classic

FA: Peter Faill

16Sport 8m, 3 Jonathan Gray 1 years ago

Stick clipped the first bolt. Fun climbing on jugs. Don't forget bolt plates (like me) for carrot...

Phillip Tola 1 years ago

Holds right where you want them.

15 Get Tracked

Start: Starts at the crack 0.5m left of "Adrews Bulge"

14Trad 11m Brendon Flanagan 1 years ago

Nice

Alex Rogers 1 years ago

Good beginner's gear lead.

16 Side Tracked

Junk

Start: 0.5m left of GT

10Trad 10m Kit 8 years ago

Actually worth doing for the smear factor practice .

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
17 Pitted Arete

Up crack, then right side of blunt arete.

Start: As 4 SP

17Trad 10m Lee McDougall 1 years ago

Worth setting up a top rope for

Brendon Flanagan 1 years ago

Nice

18 Mars Apple

Killer start, then up wall passing 1RB. Rebolted 2009

Start: 1m left of PA

FA: Steve Turcsanyi, 1987

21Sport 8m Alex Rogers 1 years ago

Couldn't do very hard boulder problem start - didn't have a clue. Climbed around and joined 2m up...

Jason Lammers 9 years ago

Hard Start for a 16

19 Zulu Trainer

Starts 1m left of Mars Apple.

Slightly tricky start then up blocky ledges and face. New bolts 2009. 2 carrots on top.

FA: Steve Turcsanyi, 1987

13Sport 10m Phillip Tola 1 years ago

Tricky slopey start.

Alex Rogers 1 years ago

Ran up this to set a top rope for my brothers. Much cleaner than last time.

20 Mike's Photogenic Crack

Corner crack left of ZT.

Bouldery start then easy.

FA: Mike Patterson

12Trad 10m Ryan Whelan 7 years ago

I left some carrabiners there the day before and went back to see if they where still there but s...

Michael Wheatley 10 years ago

Offwidth blood bath

21 Sports Injury Clinic

1m L of MPC. 3 manky BRs.

20Sport 10m, 3 Lee McDougall 1 years ago

Desperate at bottom

Jason Lammers 10 years ago

good idea to stick clip first bolt

22 * Tits and Bits

1m left of SIC. 2 FHs.

21Sport 10m Lee McDougall 1 years ago

Better than SIC

Jason Lammers 9 years ago

All in the 1st 3 meters, nice moves.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
23 Christmas Nuts

1m left of TaB.

The grovelly dirty chimney.

11Trad 10m
24 * Fixed Steps

Tricky stuff up and around the arete. Probably best to finish on anchors as for GGG. 3 new RBs

Start: On rounded arete

FA: Steve Turcsanyi

19Sport 10m, 3 Jason Budden 1 years ago

Ticked it first go. Second attempt had a foot blowout before clipping first. Palms / ribs first i...

Lee McDougall 1 years ago

Pretty tricky start with thin feet. Nothing special

25 ** Three Sides Traverse

(Anti-clockwise) traverse of three sides of the detached block downhill from the crag. Starts on left hand end of overhung most downhill face with gymnastic moves following hand traverse line. Round corner and continue along (uphill) along thin wall. Round the next corner, traverse short low overhung face to finish in cave.

FA: N Clow, 2003

V3Boulder 20m Ryan Whelan 7 years ago

Pumpy towards the end

Jason Lammers 9 years ago

2nd shot.

26 Unknown on block left 10Unknown 8m Daniel Mackey 4 years ago

good for beginners or warmups

Ainsley Wright 7 years ago

first lead ever

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
27 Midway

The following climbs are on the huge boulder separated from the main wall.

The left hand side of the boulder as you face it with your back to the cliff has two bolted routes. Midway is the RH route. Hard start, then up juggy wall and left to DBB.

13Sport 8m, 3 Chris Wallace 10 months ago

An alright climb, no way a 13 anymore, holds must have broken off at the start. More like a 16-17

Alex Rogers 1 years ago

In tennies, setting up toprope for kids.

28 Farway

4m left of Midway.

Climb diagonally right & up to the same lower-offs as Midway

13Sport 8m, 3 Alex Rogers 1 years ago

In tennies, setting up topropes for the kids

Daniel Mackey 4 years ago

good for beginners or warmups

29 Tilba Tilba

On the left side of the front of the boulder facing the main crag.

Mantle, then up. No pro.

10Trad 8m Lee McDougall 1 years ago

Climbed to get some photos

Alwyn Johnson 1 years ago

Solo

30 * Voodoo Traverse

Start as for Tilba Tilba. Traverse right to 2nd corner above the finish of Monkey Bars, then up. No pro.

18Trad 15m Andrew Thompson 11 years ago

(not sure...top roped)

31 Death of a Black Boy

Start from the cave under the big block as for Monkey Bars.

Out right through the roof and up orange wall past fixed hangers to U-bolt anchors.

FA: H. Wallace, 1992

22Sport 8m, 3 Jay Logan 1 years ago

Fun Climb!

Lee McDougall 1 years ago

Rested at the lip, Fun climb

32 ** Lucky's Roof

Also known as Monkey Bars, and given grade 20 in Sydney Rockies guide.

Monkey along the roof of the cave past RBs to lower-offs.

23Sport 5m, 5 David 9 months ago

Always good fun!

Alex Oh 10 months ago

Not a 23.

33 Go, Go, Gadget Arms

Marked GGG. Old Top rope problem. Just left of FS. No Pro !

22 RTop rope 9m David O'Donnell 8 years ago

thin and desperate

34 * Go Go Gadget - 2010 Remix

Right of MG, at thin vertical seam, battle the bulges, directly up crimpy wall.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

24Sport 10m
35 * My Girl

Bouldery with Bolts. Up wall to giant U lower off.

FA: Trevor Cooper-Williams, 1992

23Sport 10m, 3 Casey Alexander 1 years ago

Sharp lower crimp!

Ryan Whelan 7 years ago

fn hard 23

36 * B / C

3 rusty carrots

20Sport 12m, 3 Michael Helin 10 years ago

My 1st grade 20

37 * Motivated Mob Confrontations / D

Just right of ALH, and left of manky BR's of B

FA: Keysar Trad, 1992

21Sport 10m, 2 Lee McDougall 1 years ago

Fell off at before first clip. Fingers were pretty sore after the pockets, but one of the nicer c...

Jason Lammers 5 years ago

There is a bit of climbing in 10m

38 A Loving Hole

Marked, Up wall on new RBs, share RB of D. Just right of corner crack

FA: H. Wallace, 1992

20Sport 10m, 3 Casey Alexander 1 years ago

Just gotta adjust my beta up top

Lee McDougall 1 years ago

Much easier with the beta and correct foot holds

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
39 Bangor Tiger

RD on Sydney Rockies reads : Start as for ALH, traverse left & up. Given that ALH is 1m right of In Depth corner crack, its difficult to understand where this "route" is.

19Sport 10m
40 * Arachnology for Kids Traverse

From the corner/crack of In Depth (marked 'ALH') traverse right to the arete of Fixed Steps. V4/V5? Technical, very good.

FA: NC, 2003

V5Boulder 9m Nick Clow 10 years ago

From corner of In Depth traverse right to Fixed Steps arete.

41 In Depth

Corner crack just left of ALH.

11Trad 10m Alwyn Johnson 1 years ago

Some good fun weasling, solo

42 Python Direct

On the right-facing wall just left of In Depth corner.

Directly up middle of this little wall, shares anchors with Python.

Not exactly a sport route when there is one carrot 4m up and one more another 6m up. Really runout easy to deck.

19Sport 10m, 1
43 Python

On the left arete 1m left of PD.

Up arete past 2 fixed hangers to 2x carrot belay.

17Sport 8m, 2 Jason Budden 1 years ago

Nice start. Would be cool if it was double belay top instead of top out and walking around. Happy...

Lee McDougall 1 years ago

Nice climb, some cool moves. Think its a 16

44 Grandma's Python

Unknown climb between grandmas wheel chair and python

16Sport 10m, 5 Phil Ward 4 years ago

A thigh-hook on the transition past RB1 certainly helps the punchy cave start.

John Thirlwell 4 years ago

thigh hook needed to pull first move!!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
45 Grandma's Wheelchair Direct

As Grandma's Wheelchair but climb directly through the cave.

18Sport 10m
46 Grandma's Wheelchair

Past Python, on LHS of cave.

Up the side of cave, right across the top, then straight up - now fully rebolted.

FA: Dave Humphries

16Sport 10m, 4 Lee McDougall 1 years ago

tricky start

Chantelle bryson 1 years ago

Tricky start

47 Get Walking

Start as for Grandma's Wheelchair, but straight up.

14Sport 9m, 3 Brendon Flanagan 12 months ago

Not bad, decent holds most of the way a d a little gutsy working over the bulges.

Chantelle bryson 1 years ago

First complete lead

48 Skulduggery

Just left of cave for GW. Over bulge and up big crack

16Trad 9m Jason Lammers 9 years ago

Good finger lock.

49 End of the Decade

Start: Below traverse line, 3m left of S. Groovy move to start, then out traverse line and up arete.

21Sport 11m, 2 Danger Innes 1 years ago

Second traverse is pretty tough

Lee McDougall 1 years ago

Didn't want to commit. next time

50 * End of the Century

Directly up the wall past RBs to lower off. The best rock at Bangor !

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

22Sport 10m, 3 Danger Innes 1 years ago

Easier than eod if you likea to dyno

Jason Lammers 4 years ago

Bit contrived but supa rock.

51 End of the Line

Start as for Grotto Crack, past first bolt to horizontal break. Hand traverse R to ring bolt and up flake as for End of the Century. Cams and bolts.

FA: T Meredith, D Burgess, 2011

18Mixed 12m, 4
52 Grotto Crack

Corner crack just left of End of The Decade. 2BR out right or can be led as trad. Good varied climbing.

17Sport 9m, 2 Rod Smith 4 years ago

Trad. Used cams not the bolts. With Dave.

Nick Clow 10 years ago

regular solo

53 Buzz Boys Beat 19Trad 9m Ryan Whelan 7 years ago

nice warm up

Chris Yeomans 7 years ago

Neat little climb

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
54 Zip 15Sport 8m Rod Smith 4 years ago

Fell off trying to work out where the start went. Undergraded and dangerous. With Dave.

Benaud Smith 7 years ago

The start is hard fro the grade

55 Unzip 17Sport 10m Craig Motbey 11 years ago

Easier than Zip, despite the grade. Overhanging start then pull over lip and get the feet out le...

56 Billabong 18Sport 5m Nick Clow 10 years ago

solo - V1

57 Ali 15Trad 5m
58 Slobbery Dog 15Trad 6m David O'Donnell 8 years ago

gay

59 Rockclimber's Waltz 12Trad 7m David O'Donnell 8 years ago

gay

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
60 Head Butte 16Trad 6m
61 unknown on block left 10Unknown 8m

1.10.2. Lost World 15 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad
Description:© (bundybear)

One of the taller and better sport cliffs in The Shire, and shady for most of the day as it faces south. Routes are generally quite sustained, with superb rock quality and interesting sloping pocket features. The downside is the vegetation and the small amount of routes. Seepage can be a problem after heavy rain. Recent rebolting and rebrushing has brought this cliff back to it's former 80s glory. Top-roping is very easy to setup, most routes you can reach over the edge to ring bolt anchors. This cliff requires traffic to stay clean - so get out there! Better guide and topos o n:- http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/confluence/display/nswrock/Lost+World

Approach:© (bundybear)

To get there, find Koorabar Road in Bangor and park at the southern end of the street. Walk to right edge (west) of little cleared park (thru a gate) to fire track behind houses. Walk west along this track for about 60m to a locked gate (on ur right) to a diagonal access lane, wak down the hillside (left) to the edge of the cliff. Locate a small corner about 20m wesdt (R facing downhill) with a cairn atop, decend down ramps (Screaming Pretty is halfway down) and turn right at the base and walk 30m to main cliff. To get to the top turn R (west ) and walk along trail near clifftop for 40m to cleared clifftop and carrot bolts (involves a small scramble down to this platform) Rap in from here.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Tull's Ball-tearer

Unknown, supposed to be 55m R (west) of screaming pretty

18Unknown 12m David Barnes

weird place, OK I suppose

2 * Screaming Pretty

Halfway down descent on East facing wall. Up to weird finish (added during 2014 rebolt)

20Unknown 17m
3 Grunting and Groaning

Leftwards traverse finish to Screaming Pretty past dodgy bolt

20Unknown 17m
4 White corner project

ABout 6m left of Screaming Pretty at the base of the descent. Thin corner and roof with fiddly gear. Please keep off for another few weeks till it dries.

?Trad Project 15m David O'Donnell 8 years ago

21?

5 Dirt Trawler

Walk left (fzacing cliff) for 30m. Dirty and thin. Climbs the face on the right side of the prominent arete. Scramble up to vegetated ledge under big roof, out right under roof and then back left onto thin face. Direct up face avoiding the arête on the left.

23Sport 20m, 6
6 Dirt Trawler Left Variant

About the best warm up here - but still a bit dirty. An easier variant to 'Dirt Trawler'. Up that route to 3rd bolt then traverse left across sloping horizontal break to arête and up this finish.

21Sport 22m, 7
7 Nightcrawler (Neil's Project)

The big ceiling direct and then up the gritty main arete. Probably grade 28+?

Sport 20m, 8
8 Grass Direct Project

Direct start to Keep off the grass, through roof and up twin cracks to join KotG

Sport Project
9 * Keep Off the Grass

Start as for 'Fun and Destruction' then after fifth bolt (above roof), go up to break and R up seam crack above. Rebolted 8/2009

FA: Neil Mahant, 1988

23Sport 20m, 7
10 ** Fun and Destruction / Fun and Danger

Great sustained and varied climbing from start to finish. Starts on left edge of cave. Up jugs to small ledge, traverse left across horizontal break and up to under bulge. Over this and up crimpy face with a little left trend under 2nd bulge to water-washed pockets. Run it out up easier ground to the anchor. Rebolted 8/2009

Start: About a meter right of the chipped "PT" initial

FA: Neil Mahant, 1988

23Sport 20m, 7
11 * Cat Burglar

A big girdle traverse to get onto the arete. Start as for 'Eudaimonia' to 2nd bolt then big rightwards traversing link-up line eventually joining into the end arete of Dirttrawler varient.

23Sport 26m, 7
12 * Eudaimonia

A great climb up a series of bulges and seams on the left end of the wall. This route was originally chipped in two places, the lower one has been filled so grade has been bumped up. Rebolted 8/2009.

Start: A meter left of the chipped "PT"

FA: Neil Mahant, 1980

22Sport 20m, 6 Jason Lammers 1 years ago

Awesome, better with traffic.

David Barnes

reachy, damp

13 * Superforce

Bloody hard! Start a few metres left of E. Up through roof and step right, hard move past ring and old piton, then up to lower-off (shared with Soup or Force)

25Sport 20m David O'Donnell 8 years ago

thats a crag rack, yeah!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 * Soup or Force

Delicate and reachy start coming in the from the left, then through the roof on secret holds and finish up seam on the left line of bolts.

Start: Start as for 'Superforce'.

FA: M Law, 2009

23Sport 15m, 5
15 Scoop Project (Neil's)

Long traverse in from the right across horizontals, then through scoppy roof and up corner.

Sport 15m, 7

1.11. Bonnet Bay 28 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 151.050332, -34.012026

Description:© (secretary)

Great sport climbing and one of the more popular spots in The Shire. Has possibly the best 24 and 27 sport route in Sydney. Great spot for the kids, with nice level grassy area and only minutes from the car. Can be muggy and mosquito ridden in summer. There has been much rebolting in recent years so most climbs are super safe. Keep your noise down as houses are right below the crag.

Approach:© (secretary)

Park just before the intersection of 188 Washington Drive and Harrison Avenue in 'Bonnet Bay'. Walk back up Washington Road for 40m past the last house to find a track entering bush on the right. Hike up this for 20 seconds to arrive at the climbing. This track is located directly opposite the popular boat ramp. Climbs are named from LEFT to RIGHT as you face the Cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Left Wall

1 Overkilled

The far left route with giant U-bolts. Easy start then tricky finish.

18Sport 10m, 3 Chris 11 months ago

Ok

Matt Short 11 months ago

A good climb and not too hard. The lower off is a bit of a reach.

2 * Stopping Short

Slopey grit like wall climbing on giant ugly u-bolts. Rap anchor is positioned 1m lower than it should be. Top out for the full tick.

18Sport 10m, 2 Chris 11 months ago

Ok

Matt Short 11 months ago

A couple of harder moves at the top but OK.

3 Mildly Bent

Another slabby wall with a three FHs. This one is a bit mossy. If you avoid the crack on the right near the end its a few grades harder.

17Sport 11m, 3 Chris 11 months ago

Ok

Matt Short 11 months ago

Not too interesting.

4 The Easy Root

Starts on far right of this wall at juggy corner. At top of corner swing up the arête above. There is currently a large ferny thing hanging down the middle.

15Trad 10m

Middle Wall

5 Suburban Crack Fiend

Wide right facing corner crack. A highball boulder problem or bring some big cams.

16Trad 6m
6 Premature Evacuation

Slightly contrived arête with big u-bolts that has lower-off well below the top of the cliff. Mantle out and walk off for the proper tick.

16Sport 8m, 3 Brendon Flanagan 1 years ago

Crap!

7 Tiptoe Ridge

Classy easy route but protection looks sparse. Just left of the tree and right of the giant u-bolts.

12Trad 12m
8 The Chimney

Climb the obvious chimney bridging between the two blocks avoiding the big tree on the left. Finish up the left hand block.

15Sport 12m, 3 David 9 months ago

Good fun!

Rod Smith 11 months ago

Sydney Rockies' Trip.

9 Kim

The left arête on great rock, with some great technical moves. Three rings (and some leftover carrots - clip everything) to a lower-off.

21Sport 10m, 3 Rod Smith 11 months ago

Sydney Rockies' Trip.

10 Mowgli

The nice slab in the middle of the wall, with two carrots. Belay at the top on double BRs and scramble down the back.

18Sport 10m, 3 Rod Smith 11 months ago

Sydney Rockies' Trip.

Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Repeat. Tough for 18.

11 The Jungle Book

Climbs the right side of the little slab just next to the track. Up small ramp to wall and two U bolts

15Sport 9m, 3 Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Repeat

Ben Jenga 2 years ago

Fun little climb with some great holds.

12 The Right Edge

On the far right side of this slab, hidden behind the tree. Looks very dirty.

12Trad 10m

Right Wall

13 ** Slapperette

Rounded arête just left of Glorius Manglervision. Contrived but funky. can be done without, but the hold on the right between the 2nd and 3rd bolts makes it much funner.

24Sport 10m, 4
14 * Glorious Manglervision

Left leaning crack in behind the trees. Quite tricky layback moves and an awkward finish. A little bold. Recently retro-bolted.

18Sport 13m, 3 Matt Short 11 months ago

Fell on the first move because the wall and crack were wet. Was very good and a lot dryer after t...

15 * Between the Lines

Sustained but contrived. Shallow right facing corner to rooflet. Right to flake on left side of corner - up this to arete then left and over roof. Easy to Mcdougall, but you still need to do the 23 move at the end.

23Sport 16m, 6 Ben Jenga 2 years ago

A very pumpy climb for being so short.

Jason Lammers 3 years ago

Techy and Good

16 * Bruised and Scratched

A fun bolted wide crack that involves no thrutching. Bomber hand jam to start which almost immediately widens to an off-width corner. Tricky finish through the roof to finish. Retro-bolted but you might need a medium cam for the start or stick-clip the high bolt.

17Sport 15m, 5 Ben Jenga 2 years ago

Hard little bolted trad climb. Heel an toe action.

Jason Lammers 3 years ago

Awesome bolted Trad !

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
17 *** Lean Beef

Some of the best rock in Sydney. 6 rings crossing wall from right to left - then big move up final wall to double RB Lower off. Very reachy - or dynoy. There is a large loose block at the last bolt - take care.

FA: Mike Law 1990s, 2000

24Sport 15m, 6 Leith D 10 months ago

Being tall (6'3") I couldn't find a good rest in the cave on the first shot... on the other hand....

Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Repeat

18 ** Heavy Haulage

Start as for LB, continue on a direct line to the top (if you can). Either finish direct on DBB (carrots) over the top, or traverse at top to LB Lower off. Recently rebolted. GOLD!!

FA: Giles Bradbury & Mike Law 1990s, 2000

27Sport 15m Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Very hard single move

Trent Lee 8 years ago

Thats one hard move!

19 * Offalwidth

Big wide rounded crack splitting right side of main wall. Clip the 3 bolts on A1 but stay left up the wide crack to top-out. Walk off.

18Mixed 16m, 3 Matt Short 11 months ago

Nice climb up the crack. Felt ok clipping the bolts on A1.

20 * A1

Contrived. Just to the right of big offwidth. Powerfull line of crimpy goodness. Stay out the crack for the real tick. Double BB lower off up high in near the trees.

23Sport 15m Trent Lee 8 years ago

funky...soft...good

Stephen Hawkshaw 9 years ago

excellent crimpy route closer to 21.

21 Aarvark

Face just to the right A1 and left of scoopy cave. Big ugly U Bolts that finishes prematurely well below the top of the cliff. 'Contrived' if you avoid the jugs to the right.

22Sport 15m, 3 Rod Smith 11 months ago

Used arête. Told it was a straight 19. Sydney Rockies' Trip.

Matt Short 11 months ago

I loved this route. Great moves through the overhang on huge holds involving a heel hook. Then a ...

Far Right Wall

22 Climb at Own Risk

Climb overhanging juggy scoops. FHs to double BB.

16Sport 12m Ryan Whelan 7 years ago

much easier than last time

David O'Donnell 8 years ago

character builder!. GET ON IT ALL YOU ALPINE NUTS!!. I thought it was spindrift in my eyes, but t...

23 Lumberjack

Good warm-up. Right most bolted route starting in a small cave off a rock ledge. 4 u-bolts and giant u-bolt lower-off.

17Sport 15m, 4 Rod Smith 11 months ago

Sydney Rockies' Trip.

Chris 11 months ago

Interesting start

Unknown

24 Around the corner from D 15Unknown 10m Ryan Whelan 7 years ago

balancy

25 F 15Unknown 10m Ryan Whelan 7 years ago

hard in joggers

Ryan Whelan 7 years ago

another tick nothing special

26 G 18Unknown 10m David O'Donnell 8 years ago

nice UUUUUUUUU bolts DUUUUUUUUUDE!!!!

27 H 19Unknown 10m Peter Webster 4 years ago

Only bother if ur after an easy warm-up, those giant U's are just wrong..

28 India

the left hand route. Follow the left most line of U bolts

18Unknown 10m Ryan Whelan 7 years ago

felt like 16 and needs a clean

1.12. Bonnet Bay (Bouldering) 17 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.050386, -34.012741

1.12.1. Fig Tree Walls 5 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fig Trees And Funnelwebs V0+Boulder Jason Lammers 7 years ago

The cave was wet - boo hoo !!

2 Ferntree Gully V1Boulder
3 Frost Fruit V0Boulder
4 Choc Flake V3Boulder
5 Holey Moley V0Boulder

1.12.2. Bonnet Bay Cave 12 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.054009, -34.014416

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Horizontal V8Boulder
2 The Cling Thing V10Boulder Nick Cormack 7 years ago

After more than a month of work finally got it. This problem rocks.

3 *** Lucky 7 V7Boulder Jay Logan 10 months ago

Finally!

Daniel da Silva 6 years ago

Very cool with big throw from the slot

4 *** K2 V5Boulder Jason Budden 1 years ago

Yum.

Danger Innes 1 years ago

you can see the struggle with all the blood on the holds. my flash attempt nearly went from there...

5 Last Man Standing V8Boulder
6 ** Passport to Rain

link everest into finish of passport to pain...through obvious traverse

FA: Greg Collins, 2008

V5Boulder Jay Logan 12 months ago

I thought I had already sent this problem untill I was given correct beta. You must stick to the ...

Danger Innes 1 years ago

i done this whilst playing around. no as hard as k2 if your dynamic or have the reach

7 *** Passport To Pain V8Boulder Grant Stewart 5 years ago

nails!! end of a long saga

Nick Cormack 6 years ago

punchy and pretty fun. did it in the dark with junior as my tail wagging spotter.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 ** Everest V2Boulder Patrick 1 years ago

very good for warming up on

Danger Innes 1 years ago

v1 compared to the difficultly of the rest of the cave

9 Heaven Or Hell V5Boulder shaunm 1 years ago

High & exciting, plenty of lantana to break your fall if u miss the matt.

10 Sea V6Boulder Daniel da Silva 6 years ago

round the loop & back again

11 Pop The Bonnet V8Boulder
12 *** Two Hands

Starts near fallen block on undercling for right hand and sloper for left, big dynamic move over block to sloper then up through edges in cave and top out as for everest. Repeated 1/5/05 by Sharik Walker

FA: Joe Hodgson

V13Boulder 4m

1.13. Janalli 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

This crag has been played on in the 1990's but does not recieve traffic as there is not much on offer. A half a dozen micro routes and maybe a little bouldering is on offer. The crag gets a good dose of sun and access is a breeze. See the Sun, Surf & Sandstone Sydney Guide for futher beta.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Park at end of Taft Place in Jannali and walk down fire trail next to giant water pipe for 20m. Scramble down right and hook back under the scrappy cliff line to arrive at 'Mystery Climb'. Routes are listed illogically from the left to right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Music of the Night

A nice clean featured scoop. Up the right side of small cave and finish up fun arête. Traverse right to badly positioned chain.

15Sport 8m, 3 Jason Lammers 9 years ago

Boring Sunday arvo with noone to belay

2 Masquerade

Start: 1m right of MotN, below thin flake.

Up the flake (3 RBs, optional mid size cam) to awkward mantle and large rap chain. Currently very dirty.

18Sport 8m, 3 Jason Lammers 9 years ago

Boring Sunday arvo with noone to belay

3 Can We Leave Now?

Start: As for M.

Up to first RB on M, then traverse right along break (optional mid size cams, 2 RBs). Mantle up and traverse left to chain. A tad dirty.

20Sport 8m, 3
4 Roger

A dirty and vegetated seam crack. Yum.

17Trad 7m
5 Cenotaph

Start: 12m right of R, below a line of very rusty carrots. Reachy horizontals to start then dirty crack. Needs a good clean and rebolt.

19Sport 7m, 6
6 * I Wanna Be a Cowboy

The best route here - which isn't saying much. The middle line of bolts up the steep pocketed wall. Pull monos to the 3rd FH, step left and up the flake. Reach back right to jugs and a lower off chain. Direct finish is crimpy 23/24.

22Sport 7m, 3 David Barnes

sporty and short

7 He's Back Dear

The right route on the steep pocketed wall.

Bouldery moves past 2 FHs to chain lower off.

21Sport 7m, 2 David Barnes

sporty and short

8 Mystery Climb

10m right of HBD. Clip useless FH at waist then step off ground and up thin left facing flake.

14Mixed 5m, 1

1.14. Jannali Reserve (Bouldering) 7 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.056557, -34.018128

Description:

Nice cool spot for an summer avo session. Faces east and catches the breeze. Park at the Bonnet Bay sign and walk about 400m into the bush. Great place for beginners with some nice high warmups with good landings.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Wish You Were Here

Obvious crag classic !

V6Boulder Jason Lammers 1 years ago

Teacher's Beta stream got me thru :-)

2 ** Un-named v8 V8Boulder
3 ** Un-named v10 V10Boulder
4 Juggy warm up vertical V0Boulder Jason Lammers 1 years ago

Cool high ball

5 Crimpy Wall

Start low and crimp up the wall to a slopey and committing top out

V4Boulder Jason Lammers 1 years ago

Nasty crimps, quite a few shots. Fell off the top out move...

6 Jannali Dyno

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lap8tzhFc9Y

FA: Joe Hodgson

V8Boulder
7 ** Triple Bypass

If you like big moves on fairly good holds, you'll love it. Its possible to do the middle move via an intermediate but makes it pretty ugly.

FA: Joe Hodgson

V7Boulder

1.15. Barden Ridge 14 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Aid
Description:

Barden Ridge is another Shire Suburban crag fest with a dozen middle grade micro routes. This crag has one one minute access from your car and great views. Watch out for snakes in summer. This joint has been climbed on for many years and I first visited in 1987. Many routes were bolted by Barnesy but they have probably already been done, just as the all those recent routes on the Right end.

Approach:© (secretary)

To get there, drive south along Old 'Illawarra' Road until it becomes Thomas Mitchell Drive. Follow this along the top of the ridge until it starts to drop down and curve around to the left. Park at number 37 or 39 - the crag is located just across the road, about 15m into the bush. The best descent is to the right (facing out), just to the left of the rough stone block retaining wall. This brings you down to the left hand end of the crag (facing the cliff).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Let the Games Begin!

Up to bolt on EE then the head left past a cam and 2 FH through the overhang.

FA: Dave Barnes

18Trad 14m Ryan Whelan 7 years ago

wheres the pro on the head wall?

2 * Errant Edge 17Trad 12m Andrew Helin 8 years ago

2nd shot

3 * Gotta Love This City

Great line and good warmup route for the rest of the area.

17Sport 12m Ryan Whelan 7 years ago

bit run out

rod 9 years ago

nice moves on upper bit

4 * Budawang Barking Beetle 16Trad 12m Ryan Whelan 7 years ago

i did a trad climb whats going on

Stephen Hawkshaw 8 years ago

not great

5 Emu's Paradise

FA: No Aid here.

21Sport 12m Stephen Hawkshaw 8 years ago

stop and start

David Barnes

No aifd in this, I bolted it and climbed it!

6 * Speed Zealot

FA: Greg Andrews; Dave Barnes

21Sport 15m Damien Haines 16 years ago

Greg Andrews Has Freed this at 22

David Barnes

I think it is 20 not 22

7 A 17Unknown 6m
8 Rod's Rodeo

Up and past a tricky move to 2nd bolt and finish on anchors shared with RAaR

FA: Jason Lammers, 2005

20Sport 8m
9 * Ring around a Rod

Starts about 5 metres to the right of the 'Gymea Lilly' (Speed Zealot). Tricky start upto 1st bolt, then some beautiful moves past another bolt and another move upto the anchors.

Short and sweet. good climb. 2 UB to DUB Anchor

FA: Barnes

21Sport 8m Ryan Whelan 7 years ago

great climb hard at start to first draw

greg 8 years ago

rrodney with 2 r's?

10 * Rod Ramset and the American Eagles

friggen thin between 1st and 2nd bolts

22Sport 8m Stephen Hawkshaw 8 years ago

a tough little number. hard to read

greg

let me let you down

11 The Whippet

Starts about 5 left of HNiI. Streno start to nice snakey layback crack. Upto Big tree on edge of cliff.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2005

21Trad 8m Andrew Helin 8 years ago

Awesome, hard & Fun signed "The Whippet"

Jason Lammers 8 years ago

Trad Line, 4m left of HNII, streno start to nice clean crack. Top out at big tree on edge of cliff.

12 * Her Name is Iris

Below arete at right hand end of crag. Good moves past 3 FHs.

17Sport 6m Ryan Whelan 7 years ago

if you fall after the 2nd draw you fuc your rope

Andrew Helin 8 years ago

Fun

13 * Rodney Ramset

2 meters to the right of RAaR.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2005

22Sport 8m
14 ** Gymea Lilly

At crack 1m right of SZ (behind the Gymea Lilly).

Hard moves up crack to finish on ledge (BB). Please don't trash the Lilly.

17Trad 8m

1.16. Lucas Heights 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 151.001984, -34.040747

Unique Features And Strengths:

Steep sport climbing in the mid grades and with all day shade.

Description:

An unusually substantial cliff overlooking the scenic Woronora River set amongst lush forest and within critical meltdown distance of Australia's only nuclear reactor.. The routes generally climb gorgeous steep water worn orange rock up to 20m in length. Most routes are now well bolted with ringbolts & lower-off anchors (2014). It is a good destination during summer since it faces south. Sections of the cliff seep after heavy rain and during winter when it gets no direct sun.

Access Issues:

Trail bikers are a bit of a menace along the dirt tracks above the cliff. Not only do they tear past and make a racket, they also love to chuck their lunch rubbish (and old bikes!) off the top of the cliff, thus the base of the cliff is a bit of a dump. Bring mosquito repellant. Some very angry Peregrine Falcons are in residence during spring.

Approach:

To get to the crag, drive to corner of David Road and Old Illawarra Road in Bardens Ridge. Drive south down Old Illawara Road for 100m and park just before sharp left turn at bushland. Follow a large flat firetrail west taking the right hand most fire trail along the ridge top past two old quarries. At the second major quarry leave the main trail and scramble down left towards the river - look for bit of old engine block marking the top of the descent track. Trend down and right under the scrappy cliff following a vague trail until the real cliff finally emerges from the undergrowth. Climbs described right to left (east to west), facing the cliff.

Ethic:

Everything of worth at this crag is sport-bolted.

History:

Dave Barnes and Chris Wallace in the 90s, Neil Monteith in the 2010s

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Nameless Faces

Nice full length sport route that is slightly spoiled by the midway ledge. Start below shallow corner in front of block with FH. Up the corner to sloping break, traverse right 2m then up with a powerful move to door-handle jug (sling it). Mantle onto ledge, then left a metre and up steep juggy grey wall to hard slab move to gain base of huge roof. Monkey across roof for 2m to chain-anchor on lip (hard to clip, toe jam the break!). All bolts, including the FHs are glue-ins and bomber. The route originally bailed left at the third bolt, and was extended by Neil in 2014.

FA: Chris Wallace, 1994

FFA: Neil Monteith (10m extension), 17th Jan

23Sport 20m, 8
2 * Synchrotron

A bonus long pumpy traverse finish to Interior Castle. Up that route to the top of the corner under the big roof, take a breath, then launch rightwards along break. It's easy at first but the further right it gets slopier, steeper and with less feet. Anchor at far right end of roof. Either back-clean or get someone to second.

FFA: Neil Monteith, 22nd Jan

22Sport 30m, 12
3 * Interior Castle

This steep rightward leaning corner system looks grade 16, was originally graded 19 and is now considered at least 22 after several prominent failures. Despite the sandbaggery it's the best line of the cliff and has a very baffling pumpy bulgy section in the middle. Starts 5m left of NF, below the prominent corner, just before small overhanging section at about waist height. Look for shiny unreccessed ringbolts (don't worry - they are bomber). Stick-clip first bolt then stem up corner to ledge. Layback, grunt and swear up the bulgy bit to next ledge. Up monster jugs to the roof then finish with an airy traverse left to lower-off bolts. In the ye olde days there was a second pitch up the 7m dirty arete. Looks for rusty BRs.

FA: David Barnes, 1994

22Sport 20m, 8 Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Sandbag! Good climb, but some of the new bolts are in the wrong place.

4 Forever is Hard To Imagine

A flawed and incomplete route superseded by the easier and better OtaNS. The bolts on this route are very unsafe rusted unwelded rings. Do not trust them. Start: Below undercut wall. Campus jugs past crap RB, then up easy slab to ledge. Straight up to manky RB, and aid on this to bypass hard move. Continue up past another crap RB (beaten up) to ledge. Move up and left over bulge and mantle onto the grotty black slab and rap chain.

FA: David Barnes, 1995

23 M1Sport 20m, 5 David Barnes 11 years ago

A great corner, bolted and long for the burbs

5 * Ode to a Nuclear Scientist

Great steep climbing which stays dry in almost any weather. Straightened out and easier version of Forever is Hard To Imagine. Two u-bolts up face to ledge. Swing left across horizontal then up juggy steep stuff to final roof move to clip anchor on lip.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

21Sport 15m, 6 Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Good steep climbing

6 ** Cortisone

Shares start and the first 2 bolts with OtaNS, then heads left thru slopey steepness to easy finish on nice ergonomic jugs.

FA: Jason Lammers, 14th Feb

24Sport 15m, 7

The following two obscure climbs are gained by abseiling in either from above the roof right of FiHtI, or from the ledge left of the DBBs on IC.

7 Party Rough Tongue

From belay ledge DBB climb short corner (cams) then up juggy face and slab above (rusty BR).

FA: David Barnes, 1994

15Mixed 7m, 1 David Barnes 11 years ago

some hard climbing but some fun moves

8 Atomic Thunderbuster

up nose to BRs

Start: as for PRT

FA: David Barnes, 1994

12Sport 7m

Back to ground level, about 10m left of Ode to the Nuclear Scientist.

9 * Monkey Bar

Outrageous roof climbing. Short wall then out roof on pockets to catch the monkey bar jug in the lip. Finish up tricky slopes heading left (don't go up the dirty crack). All u-bolts apart from one FH in the roof.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

24Sport 13m, 6 Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Left the feet behind and monkeyed across the ceiling to the handle bar hold!

10 * Where's Wally?

Start below the big roof 5m left of Monkey Bar. Boulder up the wall (no bolts) then out the big roof. 3 FHs to chain on right.

FA: Chris Wallace 1990s

25Sport 10m, 3
11 * Vapour Trail

Not worth the star given here. The following climb is accessed by rapping in from the top from the 'main' lookout. Scramble along a narrow ledge in from the right. Rap down from a rusted chain to a hanging belay off manky chain. May have once been worthwhile after extensive cleaning but these days it is a sea of black and green lichen and the bolts are heavily rusted. Rightward trending black slab with 2 FHs and two pathetic miniature rusted unwelded ringbolts. The top section looks impossible - unless there is some sort of secret hold under the lichen??

FA: David Barnes, 1995

22Sport 10m, 4 David Barnes 11 years ago

was good but time has eroded its quality due tio dirt and damp

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

On the far left end of the crag is a grid-bolted section of excellent bulging orange and back rock capped by roofs. The next four routes all share the same start, a ramp of small logs in between ferns.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 Crab Nebula (CLOSED PROJECT)

A long thin traverse on gorgeous orange rock. Start up Reactorvate for two bolts, then head right for 10m past FHs and RBs to handcrack. Up this for a few metres to anchor bolts on bulge.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2014

Sport Project 18m, 9
13 ** Buzzfeed

First two bolts of Reactorvate, then slightly right and straight up seam on reachy fingerlocks to roof crack. Undercling out to lip and anchors.

FA: Neil Monteith, 9th Mar

25Sport 13m, 6
14 *** Reactorvate

Gorgeous orange bulging wall about 20m left of Where's Wally. Rightwards up grey slopers to hollow undercut orange flake. Traverse left across sloping break to small corner. Up this to horizontal crack under big roof. Traverse 2m right then out roof (crux) to anchor on lip. Hands on the top for the tick.

FA: Neil Monteith, 21st Jan

24Sport 13m, 5
15 Mr Burns

Bouldery from start to finish! Starts 1m left of Reactorvate. Up and left on grey jugs, then over reachy rooflet to first horizontal break. Up using the mutated hold to next horizontal break. Jam/undercling/curse up the wall to next horizontal break under big roof. Swing through this to hard final move onto ledge and lower-off rings.

FA: Neil Monteith, 26th Jan

25Sport 14m, 6
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 ** Hills Have Eyes

2m left of Mr Burns, above small tree stump. Steep start through bulge, then long moves between horizontals and through roof to anchors. Reachy!

FA: Neil Monteith & Wade Stewart, 31st Jan

23Sport 12m, 5
17 ** String Theory

An epic traverse, and possibly the longest trad route in the Shire. Up Yo! Don Bosco to the third bolt, then traverse right along the horizontal break under the big roof for 30m to bolt rap anchor. The crack is mostly hand size, but some finger and fist sized cams are also needed.

FA: Paul Thomson, Neil Monteith, 5th Feb

22Mixed 35m, 3
18 Yo! Don Bosco

Possibly the easiest route at the crag - apart from the first crank around the roof! Located at far left hand end of main wall at left end of major roofs. Stick clip first RB on lip of roof, balance onto cairns on rock ledge, boulder over lip and up rightwards on juggier face to DRB anchor. The original route went up for another couple of bolts up the dirty black slab. This route tends to seep heavily during the wetter months.

FA: David Barnes, 1994

21Sport 10m, 3 David Barnes 11 years ago

was also good when it was clean and new.

19 * Fusions

Easiest route at the crag (that doesn't involve a rap in). A fun route up a waterwashed groove and juggy roof. Starts 50m left of Yo! Don Bosco, starting on higher terrace just right of small tree growing against rock.

FA: Neil Monteith, 19th Feb

18Sport 14m, 5

1.17. Heathcote Weir 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
Description:

This is the cliff you see crossing the Heathcote Road bridge near the Heathcote exit. It was first climbed on a long time ago (1960's)and a few paint marks are evidence of this. There is a nice smooth 8m orange wall above and behind the main cliff and the routes mentioned form part of these.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * A 11Unknown 25m
2 * A Direct Start 15Unknown 12m
3 B 11Unknown 35m

1.18. The Wastelands 73 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.998276, -34.059454

Description:

This crag has some great suburban climbing and Rainbow Wall remains a great place to test your skills. I really like routes on the Vertex but they may need some cleaning these days. My favourite climb here remains, Plummit Earth Eats Worms.

Approach:© (bundybear)

To get there:

  1. Turn off Princes Hwy at Anzac Ave, Engadine.

  2. Continue along Anzac Ave and turn right into Woronora Road

  3. Turn left at Buckle Ave

  4. Continue along into Mountain St

  5. Turn left into Ardua Place and park near the end.

  6. There is a lane way between the houses, walk down this and then head left and decend down the hill

  7. Scamble down the cliff in the corner near big tree and "Year 7 Girl".

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kon Bon Wa 20Unknown 8m
2 * Asking for Action 16Sport 8m David Barnes

I always thought it was a fun arm up

3 King Kong's Bum 14Unknown 10m
4 * Breathless 20Unknown 15m Neil Monteith 10 months ago

As per usual at this crag - sandbag grade and rusty bolts. Very thin slab moves at the crux.

David Barnes

fun

5 Cringing Dinosaurs 21Unknown 15m David Barnes

slopey finish

6 * Stormy Rocks

A good climb that needs some traffic. After some thin moves at the start you get to do some great moves in the middle with the bolts just where you need them. DBB

FA: David Barnes

20Sport 15m Jason Lammers 9 years ago

Some classy moves...

Vanessa Wills 9 years ago

nice moves but dirty

7 Slabathon

FA: Dave Barnes

24Unknown 15m David Barnes

I like it, one hard move low down

8 * Jeopardy 24Unknown 14m David Barnes 12 years ago

Committing lead

9 Pandora's Pillar 12Sport 6m David Barnes

crap, crap, crap

10 I'd Rather Be Climbin' 17Unknown 8m David Barnes

average

11 No Wasted Space 17Unknown 15m
12 Alley Boys 20Unknown 15m Neil Monteith 10 months ago

Weird shelf climbing down low then horrendous mossy slopers to finish. I ended up using a tree br...

13 Ocean of Wind 16Sport 15m Neil Monteith 10 months ago

Repeat. Fun climbing. I love the slopers on the topout on this one. Felt more like grade 18.

Neil Monteith 11 months ago

Good fun jugging. Winter is great in the Shire.

14 Dodging the Elements 17Sport 15m Neil Monteith 11 months ago

Nice position but a bit contrived.

15 * Weirding Way 17Unknown 15m Neil Monteith 11 months ago

Great moves up high after the bush bash down low.

Mike Patterson 19 years ago

vaguely rings a bell

16 Love Letters From Tasmania 15Unknown 8m
17 Swimming in a Sea of Sand 15Unknown 8m
18 * Plummet Earth Eats Worms

FA: Dave Barnes

20Unknown 9m David Barnes 13 years ago

awesome slabbing, check it out, may need a little cleaning

19 * Avian Avarice 19Unknown 8m David Barnes 11 years ago

really fun

20 A 20Unknown 5m
21 To Catch a Thief 19Unknown 6m
22 * Eat More Onions 20Sport 6m David Barnes

I like this one

23 El Crapo 17Unknown 6m
24 Sabrina 16Unknown 7m
25 * Vengeance 18Unknown 7m
26 * Highway Neanderthal

FA: David Barnes

15Unknown 7m David Barnes 13 years ago

good easy lead

27 Faith 13Unknown 9m
28 Psychedelic Nightmare 14Unknown 7m
29 Ordinary People 18Unknown 7m
30 Temporary Insanity 14Unknown 7m
31 NFI Crack 6Unknown 6m
32 * Slave to the Crank 25Sport 7m
33 * Cranky Jaws 19Unknown 7m David Barnes

cool

34 Galactic Crack 12Unknown 6m
35 Dildo Comes Again 12Unknown 5m
36 I'm On Fire 16Sport 7m
37 Pyro Monkey 15Unknown 7m
38 * Dancing With Dolphins 18Unknown 9m David Barnes 13 years ago

I liked it

39 Wicked Ticket 20Unknown 9m
40 Pot of Gold 15Unknown 9m Neil Monteith 10 months ago

Fun little trad ditty with excellent clean orange rock in the first 6m. Traverse the chain is a g...

41 * Conan and the Gonad Cruncher 15Sport 9m David O'Donnell 11 years ago

undergraded

David Barnes 24 years ago

easy

42 Sweet Red Wine 22Unknown 8m David Barnes 24 years ago

reachy move can get dirty

43 * Fatboy Thin

Same as 'Fatboy', but without using the chipped hold for hands or feet.

FA: Same as Fatboy but aviods the Chipped hold.

23Sport 10m
44 * Fatboy

Up crack then blast straight up past RBs to chain lower off. It has a chipped hold than can be avioided. Tricky between 1st and 2nd bolts. Rebolted 2006

FA: David Barnes, 1991

20Sport 10m Neil Monteith 10 months ago

Good sustained climbign once I brushed the muck off the slopers. Chipped hold is too small! Grade...

Jason Lammers 7 years ago

another lap

45 Get It On

4m to the right of DT, climb up face, without using any of the holds on DT. At 2nd RB move to the right and up to shared chain with 'Fatboy'. Rebolted 2006

FA: M. Fonda, 1993

17Sport 8m Chris Yeomans 7 years ago

Pretty Crap

Jason Lammers 7 years ago

New Shiney Bolts- Finish on Fatboy Anchors

46 * Dave's Toaster

The obvious corner system, with bomber gear - was originally marked DT. The first completed climb at Rainbow.

FFA:

FA: Hardy Bros, 1980

17Trad 8m Neil Monteith 10 months ago

Nice well protected trad climbing - but not grade 17. Add 2 grades.... get 19.

Chris Yeomans 7 years ago

Needs a bit of a clean

47 Contrived Pate

Start below flakes left of DT. 2 bolts, and topout.

FA: Chris Wallace, 1993

20Trad 8m Stephen Hawkshaw 7 years ago

i think i mcdougalled the top

48 * Bolting Blues

A young Graham Fairburn put htos up in June, 1990. There was a TCU in the first and last break which made it more exciting than now but still, a great technical bit of face climbing.

FA: Graham Fairburn, 1990

24Sport 8m Neil Monteith 11 months ago

Freakn' sustained! And hard.

Jason Lammers 7 years ago

new account opened - super

49 ** Room With a View

Just to the right of COtC. A ripper of all wall climb with a stingy tail. 3 Us to DBB lower off shared with BB. Rebolted 2006

FA: David Barnes

22Sport 8m Lauren Chandler 7 years ago

My little fingers could use that undercling to finish the top : )

50 * Check Out the Chicken

Start: 2m right of BE. Straight up wall under flake. 4 bolts to shared chain with BE. Rebolted 2006

FA: David Barnes, 1990

22Sport 8m Neil Monteith 10 months ago

Repeat. Excellent clean and sustained climbing even though it's only 8m high. Very crimpy to fini...

Neil Monteith 11 months ago

Might only be 8m but it's quality all the way! Beautiful rounded slopers and flakes.

51 ** Billy's England

Just to the right of H&HR, Balancey start leads to reachy moves upto break. Then up to big reach move, to chain lower off shared with COtC. Classic climbing with new bolts.

FA: Dave Barnes

23Sport 8m Neil Monteith 10 months ago

2nd shot. BIG move up high that I ended up dynoing. At this crag just add 2 grades to get the rea...

Jason Lammers 7 years ago

finally - great climb

52 * Hip and Hunky Rhythm

Start: 2m left of BE. Blast straight up wall past

3 FHs to chain and U bolt lower off.

FA: Ben Pearce, 1994

24Sport 8m Lauren Chandler 7 years ago

Sloppers! arghh.

53 ** Sick Cows on Acid

Start: Behind block.

Superb rock. 4 BRs and positive ape factor.

FA: Ben Pearce, 1994

25Sport 8m
54 Courting Notoriety

Start: Behind the block 2m left of SCoA.

Up the offwidth and flake above. The block is off limits. Place gear in top from block before you start to protect fall onto block. Ugly.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 1993

18Trad 8m
55 * Love Mission

Start: Just right of big gum tree.

2 BRs and mid size cam. Great Climbing.

FA: David Barnes, 1991

20Trad 7m Vanessa Wills 9 years ago

dead point to a sloper! I think I'm too short

56 * Poetic Licence

This route is more of a boulder problem with a couple of BR;s. However it is on very nice rock and has one of the greatest dino's to reach the top break, around. If ypou are down this way have a go, I would love to know what you think? It deserves some traffic.

FA:

23Trad 7m
57 Year Seven Girl

Up flakes with no pro (top rope recommended).

FA: Gary Hardy, Mark Hardy, 1980

20Trad 6m
58 B ?(S)Sport 10m
59 Mulch Mattress 17Unknown 10m
60 * Flight of the Fanciful 21Unknown 10m Vanessa Wills 9 years ago

too short

61 * Yosemite Sam 17Unknown 10m
62 * Finger Lickin' Good 20Sport 10m Jason Lammers 7 years ago

Previous O/S - RP today.

David Barnes 24 years ago

nice sharp holds and good BRs

63 Snowbound 15Unknown 9m
64 * Direct Door 21Unknown 9m
65 * Emma Loves Artichokes 22Unknown 8m David Barnes 24 years ago

good natural lead

66 Mortal Sin 20Unknown 8m
67 Spasticosis 7Unknown 7m
68 Nancyboy 18Sport 7m
69 * Cream 19Sport 8m
70 * Who's the Joker 18Sport 8m David Barnes 24 years ago

Nice roofy thing for up and coming heroes

71 Cowboy Caviar 15Sport 6m
72 * Billy McDougall

As for for BE, but pike out of last direct move and move right and clip the last bolt on COtC and up to anchors.

22Sport 9m
73 Hot Chips and Sauce

The 'Steep' climb between Bumbly Buttress 'Right Side' and 'Rainbow Wall' 'Main Area'. Up corner wall past FH to Bolt, then over buldge and up steep head wall past chips to chain.

Sport 10m

1.19. The Wok 19 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

This crag houses a dozen easy beginner routes you do not have to die for. A pleasant location and a couple of really nice things makes this a good spot for the bumbly.

Approach:© (glenn_9)

located down in royal national park directly in line with cardiff street. cross railway line and head down goarra ridge firetrail, turn left after 100m down firetrail running parralel to railway line, follow this for roughly 200m to find the crag just on left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Monkey Madness

start: under the roof.

A good thrash through the roof.

FA: david barnes, 1989

20Sport 6m, 2 David Barnes

weird roof move, I even saw grade 25 climber defeated bu it!

2 * April Sun

left of mm.

heads through small roof.

FA: david barnes, 1989

21Sport 5m, 2
3 Smirnoff

Start: left of A.S

FA: Z. mann, 1989

21Sport 5m, 2
4 Fungus Cruncher

Start: as for S.

Heads left around the overhangs. 2 B.Rs

FA: David Barnes, 1989

18Sport 6m
5 * Hey Cornflake

Start: Left of F.C.

FA: A.Le Gras, 1989

16Sport 4m
6 Mahamic Destruction

Start: at right hand end of main wall.

FA: Shae Constantine, 1989

15Sport 8m, 2 Steven Martin 10 years ago

Roped

7 Beginner's Flight Direct

Start: left of M.D.

Directly up to horizontal break on B.F

FA: S. Pierce, 1988

14Mixed 6m, 1
8 * Beginner's Flight

Start: at crack.

Up crCK Then right to break and up.

FA: David Barnes, 1988

13Trad 10m Steven Martin 10 years ago

Roped

9 * Make or Break

Start: As for B.F.

Continue straight up above crack

FA: David Barnes, 1988

15Sport 11m, 2 Steven Martin 10 years ago

Roped

David Barnes 26 years ago

First bolt I ever placed

10 * Grim Reaper

Start: Left of M.O.B

FA: David Barnes, 1989

19Sport 10m, 2 David Barnes

Really nice crux move

11 Iron Balls

Start: as for I.E.

Traverse. from 1st B.R head right to M.O.B then up

FA: Shae Constantine, 1989

17Sport 12m
12 ** Incredible Egg

Start: Below the orange streak.Excellent for the grade. Direct line passing 2 b.rs and small cams.

FA:

16Sport 10m, 2 Ryan Whelan 7 years ago

seamed a lot harder than a 16

Steven Martin 10 years ago

Roped

13 * Metropolis

Start: left of I.E.

FA: David Barnes, 1989

17Trad 10m Steven Martin 10 years ago

Roped

David Barnes

A bit to close to I.E but good anyway

14 Lemon Curry

Start: as for F.P.

Traverse. up crack then right to M.D and up.

FA: Shae Constantine, 1989

17Trad 13m
15 Mark's Blunder

Start: As for F.P.

Higher level traverse. Up F.P to top then traverse right on jugs.

FA: M. Le Gras, 1988

13Trad 15m
16 ** Full Pants

Start: below obvious crack through overhang.

Up the crack then through the overhang.

FA: M. Le Gras, 1988

16Trad 10m Steven Martin 10 years ago

Roped

David Barnes

A number 3 friend will let you cruise through the crack

17 * Ripper Rita

Start: Left 'Arete'. Cams and B.R

FA: David Barnes, 1989

19Mixed 10m, 1
18 Holocaust

Start: Left of R.R.

Up the wall through the overhang.

Take a largish cam. Take care- this climb has dealt a number of ground falls.

FA: David Barnes, 1988

13Trad 8m
19 Dragnet

Start: as for H.

Traverse. Up to ledge then head right to M.O.B.

FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989

16Trad 15m

1.20. Bluebell 26 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 151.002432, -34.079551

Description:

A mighty little crag housing some steep Sydney classics. Sandstone, easy access, snakes and ladders, there is much here to keep a smile on your dile. The cliff was descovered by Alan Smith but it was Dave Barnes who did the work in the early 1990's. His routes include 'Gate Keeper' (23) the mega classic, 'Ruthless Babe' (22), 'Bitch'n' (23), 'Welcome to the Body Shop' (21), 'Meltdown' (19) and 'Sparky' (16). Other climbers filled in the gaps and what is left is a dozen pumpy numbers. Beware of the summer snakes in the break of Bitch'n and mindfull of the neighbours at the cliff top, it's their backyard.

Approach:© (secretary)

To get there, find 'Bluebell' Rd, Heathcote, and park at the end. Hop the gate onto the fire trail and follow it around to the left (behind the houses). The crag is located directly below these houses - continue walking for 50m until you can scramble down to the base of the cliff on an obvious track.

The cliff faces basically west, so it's perfect on sunny winter's days, but is a bit of an oven during summer. The steepest section tends to seep a bit after rain.

Climbs described south to north (right to left, facing the cliff).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Nathan

The girdle traverse route. Start at 'Anika' and move across and up bast bolts on Zara and Duncan to finish on anchors as for Duncan.

FA: bundy, 2006

16Sport 9m, 3 John Thirlwell 3 years ago

pumped out so had to rest halfway across traverse after bailing on my first attempt a metre past ...

Phil Ward 3 years ago

This linkup is the best route on this wall

2 Duncan DS

Climb the short orange wall. 1 RB to lower off.

FA: bundy, 2006

10Sport 6m, 1 John Thirlwell 3 years ago

warm-up

Phil Ward 3 years ago

Easy, short, beginner stuff

3 Duncan

Start left of small corner. Up over a small bulge and veer to the right. 2 RB to Lower Offs.

FA: bundy, 2006

11Sport 7m, 2 Brendon Flanagan 1 years ago

Nice climb, good for a warm up and beginners.

John Thirlwell 3 years ago

warm-up

4 Zara

Start 2m right of 'Anika'. 1 high RB (stick clip) to shared lower off with 'Anika'.

FA: bundy, 2006

14Sport 7m, 1 John Thirlwell 3 years ago

more interesting than Duncan

Phil Ward 3 years ago

Interesting start sequence

5 Anika

The left most route with two ring bolts. Tricky move past 1st RB then nice wall to lower offs.

FA: bundy, 2006

16Sport 8m, 2 John Thirlwell 3 years ago

nice rooflet pocket

Phil Ward 3 years ago

One big reach

6 Trust Me I Used Araldite

Short and crap. Not well bolted, you could deck if you miss the 2nd bolt, so you might at well solo it.

15Sport 7m Brendon Flanagan 1 years ago

Nice climb, hidden hold after first clip. Needs some gardening but all in all a fun climb.

Ryan Whelan 7 years ago

nice climb a bit dirty though

7 Al's Nightmare

??? Has this been climbed ??

22Sport 8m David McQueen 8 years ago

Can't work out how to possibly get through the thin top section.

David O'Donnell 8 years ago

gay

8 Heathcote Homo

Start 3m right of SC. Up past 2 BRs to RB, funky move to gain anchors.

FA: Bundy, 2008

18Sport 10m, 3 Phil Ward 3 years ago

Committing sloper sidepull to top

Sebastian Sakowicz 4 years ago

Interesting at 18, and if you like playing in a sand pit. Maybe I was not doing it right. 2nd shot.

9 Screaming Cockatoos

Shared start with S, up flake and drift right past a few more bolts to shared lower off with HH. Hard for 18

FA: Shano, 1992

18Sport 10m Phil Ward 3 years ago

A tough read at top

Christopher 4 years ago

Good but difficult last move

10 * Sparky

Up flake (RB), head left then steeply up past 2 FHs. 'Fantastic' Climbing. New Lower offs installed.

FA: Dave Barnes, 1992

16Sport 10m Brendon Flanagan 1 years ago

First move a tricky one. Fiddling around for the right hold after 2nd clip but a nice walk in the...

John Thirlwell 3 years ago

great juggy holds. Had to have a rest before doing final move as pumped from earlier

11 * Meltdown

Rebolted, now with Lower Offs. The dodgy bolts have been replaced. Shared Lower Off with S.

19Sport 10m John Thirlwell 3 years ago

Good fun on TR

Phil Ward 3 years ago

Highly enjoyable and a little overhung

12 97% McDougall Free - Corner Start 20Unknown 12m Dubravka Sakowicz 4 years ago

Solid at 20. 5 shots all up. 16/5/09 Did all the moves this time. 9/5/09 Top rop, could not do th...

Adam Bramwell 6 years ago

McDougal McDougal

13 ** 97% McDougall Free

The direct line just left of 'Meltdown'. Stay out of the corner at the start. 4 RB to lower off. Good bargin shopping at 22, could be 21.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2006

22Sport 12m Sebastian Sakowicz 4 years ago

2n shot. A bit squeezed in at the bottom anyway. Nice climbing but the supposed crux is easier t...

. 6 years ago

Lord Bundy, the visionary.

14 ** Welcome to the Body Shop

Best 21 in Sydney. Nice and pumpy on big holds. Rebolted 2008

FA: Dave Barnes, 1992

21Sport 12m Daniel Mackey 3 years ago

Hyper!

Phil Ward 3 years ago

An accurate dyno off the crimper is all that stands between me and a red-point!

15 ** Bitch'n

Nice and 'Steep', Delicate over the bulge and then get on trucken to the end.

FA: Dave Barnes, 1993

23Sport 12m Damien Boorman 4 years ago

some great climbing, very pumpy but an awkward top out to a suspicious looking chain

Sebastian Sakowicz 4 years ago

2nd shot. This is one of the best 23 I have ever done, solid at the grade.

16 *** Bundy in a Bottle Shop

Start as for 'Ruthless Babe', then side pull out to clip RB on right. Straight up from here, delicate traverse into Bitch'n do the crux on Bitch'n. Then move up and to the right past another RB. Straight up above last RB and finish sportingly to new anchors on Body Shop. A Pumper !

FA: Jason Lammers, 2006

23Sport 18m Sebastian Sakowicz 4 years ago

2nd shot, nice linkup on the pumpy side.

Stephen Hawkshaw 7 years ago

i suck

17 *** Ruthless Babe

Mega

FA: David Barnes, 1992

23Sport 12m Jay Logan 1 years ago

Nice Climb

Second shot

Daniel Mackey 3 years ago

new proj

18 ** Gatekeeper

Climb up RB past the 1st 2 bolts. Then great hand traverse under the roof. Finish up DBoM.

FA: Dave Barnes, 1992

23Sport 15m Sebastian Sakowicz 4 years ago

2nd shot, very nice climbing not too hard.

Nick Clow 5 years ago

x 2

19 ** Ruthless Shop

Another linkup. Real Estate is precious at the Bell. Start up RB and do the crux thru the roof. Stand up and clip the next ring with a long sling, then great balancey moves across the head wall to the anchors on WttBS.

FA: Its a Link Up, 2000

23Sport 16m . 6 years ago

Actually really good.

Adam Bramwell 6 years ago

could be harder at the top?

20 *** Ruthless shop - extended trading

as for ruthless babe, but finish right up on meltdown anchors

FA: Adam Bramwell, 2008

23Unknown 15m
21 *** Guerilla Radio

start up DBOM and do crux, Traverse on slopey break, clip 5th bolt of Gatekeeper and do Crux, traverse right and do top crux for Ruthless Babe. traverse into bolts for Bundy in a bottle shop and finish on anchors for welcome to the body shop.

Basically links all the best and hardest routes at blue bell in a rising traverse, left to righ!

FA: Linkup., 2008

26Sport 16m David O'Donnell 5 years ago

Bluebell crowning jewel!

David O'Donnell 6 years ago

"TURN THAT SHIT UP!"

supremo linkup. start up DBOM and do crux, Traverse on slopey break, cli...

22 ** Darling Buds of Mayhem

Recently rebolted on nice shiney U's. A Sydney Classic on great rock.

FA: Mikl, 1992

25Sport 15m Sebastian Sakowicz 4 years ago

3rd shot. Great climbing, not sure about the grade its been awhile since I have been on a 25.

Nathan Bolton 4 years ago

Easy, no harder than the 23's

23 Divine Intervention

Climb FK, past crux and 3 U bolt, then move right clipping 3 more carrots on the way. DBB Lower Off

23Sport 15m Jason Lammers 7 years ago

Possibly only 23, Climbs the crux on FK, then goes right past 3 more Carrots...

David O'Donnell 8 years ago

can we fit anymore high quality routes in at this crag....the answer is YES stay tuned!!.

24 ** Flying Kites

Nice and Pumpy. Up arete past 4 U bolts.

FA: G Morton, 2000

23Sport 15m Sebastian Sakowicz 4 years ago

One hard move and one hard draw to hang. Not hard with gear on, anchors would be nice.

Adam Bramwell 6 years ago

Another piece of shire gold

25 ** Heel and Toe Polka

Climb FK to 2nd bolt and then big move and clip U bolt on left, then up to carrot and thru roof, clip another U bolt, then top out. DBB Lower Off. Plenty of heel hooking and toe locks.

FA: Bundy

24Sport 15m . 6 years ago

Immensely contrived but surprisingly cool moves!

David O'Donnell 8 years ago

Bundy is being modest. deserves a star. bolts and vision supplied by Bundy. stolen by......???

26 Lobotomised

FA: Chris Wallace, 1992

18Trad 15m Steven Martin 8 years ago

Sandbag your mates on to this one, it's horrendous.

Scott Rowling 9 years ago

good, but remains moist several days after rain

1.21. Dickhead's Area 7 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Arse Master 18Unknown 9m
2 * Hot Shit 23Unknown 12m
3 Leeches 21Unknown 10m
4 * Funk of Gunk 20Unknown 10m
5 Dry Wank V5Boulder
6 Buzzaey V3Boulder
7 *** Grapple Hook Hand

FA: PW

V8Boulder 4m

1.22. Bass and Flinder's Point 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Boy Martin's Muck 12Unknown 4m
2 Fungus Friction 13Unknown 4m
3 Dyke Flinders 19Unknown 5m
4 Aldo's Amazing Razzle Dazzle 17Unknown 8m
5 Kidney Crank 14Unknown 8m

1.23. The Villas 40 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.050225, -34.025568

Description:© (secretary)

The most extensive of all the Sutherland crags. The jewel in the crown is the Villas cave, however there is some great bouldering on the surrounding cliffline. Crag classics; 'Boobs', 'Burgers', Savage and of course 'Contact' - Australia's first V12.

(Reference-Sydney Bouldering (Peter Balint) & australianbouldering.com (Tim O'Neill)

Approach:© (secretary)

Park at the start of Rata Place, Sutherland, where the big green pipe crosses under the road. Follow the pipe leftwards for about 75m, then drop off right towards the river into the jumbled rocks. After about 15m, you'll be on a vague terrace, head left for 10m for the 'Cops Are Tops Cave', otherwise continue down the dodgy descent for another 30m. The first problems described are about 25m right along the cliff line, next to the exposed pipes. 'The Villas' cave is about 35m in the other direction.

'The Villas' cave gets the shade in the morning.

1.23.1. Cops Are Tops Cave 5 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Cops Are Tops

Great problem but soft for the grade.

V5Boulder Nick Clow 8 years ago

V4

Daniel da Silva 8 years ago

this is tops and thats where i fell off (2nd shot)

2 * Compliments And Complaints

As for CAT, but go right through underclings to an easier finish over right.

V4Boulder Jason Lammers 2 years ago

Good juggy warmup on the way down to the main crag

3 B2

Sit start on right side of cave up and out.

V0Boulder
4 ** I Must be Buffed

20m south is a small arete next to a petite gum tree. 'Excellent' climbing.

V2Boulder
5 Bikini Chicks V3Boulder

1.23.2. The Villas Cliffs 17 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Hairy Joe's Banana Shack

1st problem in the little cave next to the pipes. 'Excellent' and hard.

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

V11Boulder
2 ** Squeaky Dog

Tough start, then enjoyable up the slab past the big pocket. 'Escape' right.

V3Boulder
3 ** Unhinged

A committing barndoory classic

V5Boulder Daniel da Silva 6 years ago

fun and high

4 ** Derailed

Bad landing, powerful and classic !

V8 RBoulder Nick Cormack 6 years ago

Bring plenty of pads and spotters and then enjoy as its excellent.

5 ** Ren

Pleasant.

V3Boulder
6 ** Stimpy

Bad landing, committing and cute.

V3 RBoulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 ** Help

Good

V6Boulder Daniel da Silva 6 years ago

Great problem up the blunt arete

8 ** Mummy I'm Scared

Same start as Help, but move right of the arete and up.

V4Boulder
9 * Rock On

Up the wall in front of the small tree

V3Boulder Jason Lammers 2 years ago

Hard move off the floor.

Matt Hoschke 3 years ago

desperate

10 ** Help into Rock On

Link sit start of 'Help into Rock On'

V7Boulder Nick Cormack 6 years ago

Balancey, fun and not that hard

11 * Fumy Webs

Up the seam

V1Boulder Daniel da Silva 8 years ago

great warm up

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 ** Boobs

Best easy problem at crag.

V1Boulder Daniel da Silva 6 years ago

cool features

Ryan Whelan 6 years ago

looks nothing like boobs

13 Pox

Up the shitty arete, bad landing and bad rock.

V3 RBoulder
14 ** Human Pinball

A nice short powerful, overhanging arete. Bad landing

V5 RBoulder shaunm 3 years ago

landings not to bad if you stay on the ledge

Ryan Whelan 6 years ago

not yet

15 * Letter Box

Up the wall via a committing lock.

V3Boulder sharon tsetong 5 years ago

nice!

sharon tsetong 5 years ago

nice holds at top! (phew:)

16 * Playground

Start in break below rooflet, up and over, red rover.

V2Boulder
17 * Like A Finger Up Your Bum

If you're into that type of thing!

V2Boulder Daniel da Silva 6 years ago

fun slab

Ryan Whelan 6 years ago

spider in the hole

1.23.3. The Villas Cave 18 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:© (Johan)

This is the business end of town people.

Great warm-up's and all the well known classics.

'Burgers' (V5), Savage(V8/9), Paul's 'Present' (V10) and of course 'Contact' (V12). In the main cave, most of problems finish at the same point, the high juggy ledge just below the main roof in the centre of the cave - refered to as finish.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Level Crossing

Start on the obvious edge just right of the arete, traverse right to finish (stay below the sandy jugs)

V3Boulder Johan Szabo 8 years ago

repeat ('01)

Daniel da Silva 8 years ago

pumpy

2 Burping

From the big jug a couple of metres right of the corner, go straight up to the sandy jugs. The back wall is off for your feet

V2Boulder Daniel da Silva 8 years ago

short and sweet

Johan Szabo 8 years ago

repeat ('01)

3 * Beer

Start on the lip of the roof, 1m right of big jug to the finish.

V3Boulder sharon tsetong 5 years ago

always a good one to do

Sebastian Sakowicz 7 years ago

I tried a few years ago, 1st shot this time.

4 *** Burgers

Crag Classic

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

V5Boulder Nick Cormack 7 years ago

Hard for a 5 I reckon but still its good after the first move

Jason Lammers 8 years ago

FINALLY !! About 17 shots - 3 visits. Lucky its only 10 minutes from home...

5 ** Contact

The first V12 in OZ! Very powerful.

FA: Paul Westwood

V12Boulder
6 *** Savage

Hard for the grade. Sustained, pumpy and powerful.

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

V8Boulder Jay Logan 11 months ago

New project.... Nice moves

shaunm 1 years ago

Finally the battle is over! MEGA

7 Shwing V11Boulder
8 ** Paul's Present

A great present from the Toni and Klem road trip of '99. Very committing, desperate and good. Pad out the landing well as falling from the top out would be very ugly.

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 2000

V10 RBoulder Johan Szabo 8 years ago

So close. Feel off before last move. Will go next time.

9 ** Entry Point

Start Exit Wounds and make four or five moves linking into Paul's Present. Could be soft?

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, 2013

V10 RBoulder
10 ** Exit Wounds

2 metres right of PP. Start on a good edge and an undercling (to the left of the small rock). Move powerfully out the roof left of the crack, and then bodly up the airy headwall trending left.

V10 RBoulder
11 * Crack Attack

From the back of the cave, follow the holds out the roof crack (no jamming required). Dodgy landing, finish rightwards.

V6 RBoulder Jay Logan 11 months ago

First shot !

Lucy Stirling 1 years ago

SO much fun. Great problem

12 ** Off Peak

Start in underclings at the back of the cave (back wall is on), climb out and into right hand side of scoop, then move right and across to the big pockets, before tackling the powerful headwall. Bad landing

V7 RBoulder Lucy Stirling 1 years ago

fun move. But don't think it's a 6 or 7 though...

13 Off Peak Var V4Boulder Sebastian Sakowicz 6 years ago

Not the best landing, nice mantle. Softish at 4.

14 * I Can't see

Up just left of small tree

V3Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
15 ** Slab Club

Up left of 'The Crack'

V2Boulder
16 ** The Crack

The awesome offwidth - jam it.

V2Boulder
17 ** Grande

25m further right of 'The Crack'. In the cave.

V5Boulder Sebastian Sakowicz 6 years ago

One hardish campus move, fun but a bit dirty.

Daniel da Silva 8 years ago

very funky moves

18 The Glasshouse

Start matched on the obvious crimpy ledge on the left of the bloc. Traverse right across the seam, then up to finish on the slopey ledge at the base of the roof

Start: 3 metres right of 'Grande'

FA: Brett Heino

V3Boulder

1.24. Prices Cave 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 151.047526, -34.029134

Description:© (bundybear)

As for bouldering crag...

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jack

The left most route. Start at roof flake, then finish out rightwards with a series of bizarre mantles.

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

21Sport 10m, 4 Grant Stewart 6 years ago

hard grit

2 ** Jill

Fantastic steep climbing on flakes through steep wall. Funky and cruxy. Same lower off as Jack.

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

24Sport 10m, 4 Jason Lammers 5 years ago

South Central Classic

3 ** Intellectually Mild

Through roof then climb right to crimpy crux then nice to top. 'Fantastic' quality.

Start: right of jill

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

28Sport 10m, 4
4 ** Circadian Rhythm

Super steep and sustained technical climbing on the right side of the cave. One of the hardest routes in Sydney. An old Westwood project put to bed by the next generation.

FA: Cameron Taylor, 2009

31Sport 10m, 5
5 Link

Up IM for one bolt then left into Jill via heinous undercount scoop. A bolt seems to be missing from the crux but you could stick clip next bolt and extend it for the red point. Grade?

Sport 8m, 4
6 Open Project

Up the center of cave - only half bolted.

Sport 9m, 3

1.25. The Fish Boulders 31 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.045957, -34.028254

Description:© (secretary)

A splended array of small cliffs and buttresses right near the Woronora River. Flat landings, nice easy to moderate problems. Fun for the whole family and/or a great place to warm up before hitting the harder crags of the area.

Approach:© (secretary)

Off River road, turn into Prince Edward Park road, follow it along through a small round-a-bout and park in the obvious parking area on the right side of the road. The boulders are just over the grassy mound near the river.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The young and the restless V6Boulder
2 ** I fish and I vote 7 V5Boulder Jason Lammers 6 years ago

Dont fall into the river...

will watkins 6 years ago

did it both ways. pinch the arette and pocket and wall

3 I Fish and I Vote V5Boulder
4 * I'd rather be fishing V4Boulder Jason Lammers 6 years ago

EZ but good !

Nick Cormack 7 years ago

Dodgey landing for the top but good

5 I'd Rather be Fishing (DIirect!)

Avoid matching and moving L by means of a dyno straight to the top.

V4Boulder
6 I'd Rather be Fishing (Direct!)

Avoid matching and moving L by means of a dyno straight to the top.

V4Boulder Nick Clow 8 years ago

dyno straight for the top (ie. do not match & move L to topout)

7 My fingers hurt V5Boulder
8 The butt cracker suite V4Boulder Jason Lammers 9 years ago

hard off the ground

9 Wombat lover V1Boulder
10 ** Wombat Lover Direct Start V4Boulder
11 Mmm...Jugs... V0Boulder
12 Slab of death V0Boulder
13 Continuous playback V1Boulder
14 Flying Fish

RH in the pocket 0.5 metres R of Let's Make Love. Go for the top with LH. Arete is off.

V7Boulder Nick Clow 8 years ago

RH in pocket 0.5m R of Let's make Love. Go for the top. Arete is off.

15 * Let's Make Love V2Boulder
16 Bimbo Jimbo V0Boulder
17 Himbo Jimbo V0Boulder
18 No Fat Boys V3Boulder David O'Donnell 8 years ago

possibly that last ascent??

David McQueen 8 years ago

Because it's gone.

19 Mighty Midgets V0Boulder
20 Express V4Boulder Nick Clow 8 years ago

a bit dirty, better than it looks

21 ** Love Machine V3Boulder
22 ** Knockers V2Boulder
23 Tricky Traverse

start as for Knockers and traverse left the whole face. to bat cave. Crux is on the blunte arette.

FA: David O'Donnell

V4Boulder
24 * Fun Bags V3Boulder
25 Fun Bags Eliminate

Narrow line eliminating sidepull on L & holds on R. Sloper for R then stick big sloper with L.

V4Boulder Nick Clow 8 years ago

Eliminate sidepull on L. Sloper for R then stick big sloper with L.

26 hooters V0Boulder
27 Money box V0Boulder
28 Plumbers Crack V0Boulder
29 Coin slot V0Boulder
30 * melons V3Boulder
31 ** Bat cave V2Boulder

1.26. Dead Chinaman's Wall 10 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.047073, -34.018255

Description:© (bundybear)

If coming from Sutho, cross the big Woronora bridge and take the 1st exit, drive back under the bridge towards the river. Park just b4 the hairpin bend, cross the road at the hairpin, walk past the gate and the 1st boulder will appear. 1 minute access

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Flied Lice V1Boulder
2 Floater V1Boulder
3 Bobbing V4Boulder
4 * Fish Food V7Boulder Daniel da Silva 6 years ago

fun 1 mover not bad for the grade

5 Super Me V9Boulder
6 Going Home V1Boulder David O'Donnell 8 years ago

consellation tick after being spat of everything else

7 Road to Nowhere V3Boulder
8 Gregs Problem V3Boulder Jason Lammers 5 years ago

Rad lil problem...

9 ** Statement

Start as for IGWT on right side of orange blobby thing, then move left and upto crimps. Save some gas for the big move at the end.

V8Boulder
10 ** In God We Trust

Start at underclings on the orange blob. Powerful moves up the wall.

V5Boulder David O'Donnell 4 years ago

PURE!

Jason Lammers 5 years ago

Teacher has the Beta !

1.27. The Cemetery (Bouldering) 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ghost line

high and scarey

V1Boulder 6m David O'Donnell 6 years ago

dont look down.

2 Cremated Remains V1Boulder 6m
3 *** Headstone Traverse V3Boulder
4 Zombie V2Boulder
5 Exit Wounds V1Boulder
6 Dead don't Dance V3Boulder

1.27.1. Flight Deck 0 routes in Area

1.28. Sandshoes (bouldering) 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Street Fighting Man

mantle problem at left end, the standing start or which is the finish to the V3 traverse

FA: David O'Donnell, 2007

V1Boulder David O'Donnell 7 years ago

mantle problem, left end

2 * Know your enemy

top out half way through renegades of Funk..tricky mantle

V2Boulder David O'Donnell 7 years ago

top out half way through renegades of funk...tricky mantle

3 *** Renegades of Funk

long pumpy traverse from middle to far left end, mantle top out

V3Boulder David O'Donnell 7 years ago

crag classic

4 ** Dyno McDougal

middle of the wall, sit start

FA: David O'Donnell, 2007

V2Boulder David O'Donnell 7 years ago

middle of crag, RAD!.

5 ** Pistol Grip Pump

just right of start for ROF. direct exit

V3Boulder David O'Donnell 7 years ago

finish up seem just right of DMcD.

6 * Bullet in the head

right hand end.

V2Boulder

1.29. Camp Wanawong 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
Description:

Awesome compact orange sandstone wall, just behind Camp Wanawong. Probably best to walk up the creek from 1st ave.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Traverse of the slobs 20Unknown
2 Sell Sell Sell 21Unknown
3 Don't call me Pindick! 20Unknown
4 Going Nowhere 20Unknown
5 Two Bolts Too Many 21Unknown
6 Igor's oxygen bottle 17Unknown

1.30. The Wing Cave 27 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.001011, -34.014698

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pussy Whipped V2Boulder Peter Webster 4 years ago

an amazing bouldering area!

2 Super Whipped V5Boulder David O'Donnell 6 years ago

I prefer the moisture falling from the sky rather than permiating from every pour of my body..its...

3 Framed V8Boulder boulderakov 1 years ago

still V8 even though a hold broke long ago.

4 Two Mats and a Sqeaky Dog V10Boulder
5 Puppy Love V10Boulder
6 Franklin Feeling V11Boulder
7 Seeping Slit V3Boulder
8 Up Draft V3Boulder
9 Locked In V9Boulder
10 Lock Tight V9Boulder Nick Cormack 5 years ago

So good. Generous grading.

11 The Incredible Hulk V6Boulder Nick Cormack 5 years ago

Bring your grovelling skills for the mantle

12 Paw No More V8Boulder
13 Jammer V6Boulder
14 Feldene V4Boulder
15 ** Fat Spastic V5Boulder Peter Webster 4 years ago

zero holds, five stars, buckets of fun!

Nick Cormack 5 years ago

Very stylishly flashed. Knees and all!!!

16 Porn V6Boulder
17 The Hangover Boulder
18 *** Weak Ape Test Zone V7Boulder shaunm 5 years ago

With Greg & Justin

19 The Pusher V11Boulder
20 Groove Terminator V11Boulder
21 Whinging Poms V10Boulder
22 Sheffield Steel V10Boulder
23 Born With Wings V8Boulder
24 *** Flapping Around V3Boulder Ryan Whelan 6 years ago

just couldn't hold the last move. Next time

25 Poo Faces V8Boulder
26 Watch Your Sack Crack V9Boulder
27 Watch Your Back Jack V6Boulder

1.31. Woronora Lookout (bouldering) 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.045605, -34.030847

Unique Features And Strengths:

Extensive collection of highball bouldering or short top-ropes.

Access Issues:

Public land

Approach:

This area is behind the Woronora Cemetery in the suburb of Loftus. Park at junction of First and Second Avenue at deadend. Jump the metal gate and walk along the fence bordering the cemetery. Cross a small creek and continue on for a few hundred metres, ignoring the turn on the left. The track eventually goes up a little rocky hill with a junction at the top. Take the left turn and walk for 100m to lookout over river and park bench. Scramble down and left from the park bench for 50m to crag. It faces west so gets afternoon sun. There is a fair bit of broken glass around - take care.

Ethic:

Bouldering and top-roping only. No lead bolts!

History:

People have been climbing here for decades

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** The Well

Starts inside a bowl shaped cave

FA: Graham Fairburn

V3Boulder
2 * Giovanni CM

Traverse of The Overlap eliminating the horizontal break. Thin.

V2Boulder 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 ** Juggy Prow

Steep juggy arete below The Overlap

V0Boulder
4 The Coffin

Climb out of hole onto slab

Boulder
5 Pumpty Dumpty

Left side of The Overhang Boulder

V0Boulder 6m
6 ** Traverse

Left to right low traverse of The Overhang Boulder - finishing up right arete.

V2Boulder 12m
7 The Sloper

Eliminate up the middle of The Overhang Boulder

V4Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 * Crimp Seam

Weakness up face just right of The Overhang Boulder

V1Boulder
9 ** Zircon

Impossible feeling blunt and blank arete.

V1Boulder
10 Kathy's Crack

Hand crack right of arete

V0Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 * Jug City

Highball up left side of cave. Manky carrot BB on top.

V1Boulder 6m
12 ??

Crimpy up the black column between the two orange scoops to a hard top out (V1-ish if you drop).

V1Boulder
13 Bodywork

Left to right across wide crack and into flakes in the ceiling to the right, then up these to a few holds in a scoop. High!

V2Boulder 6m
14 Overlander

Right to left along the short wall, not using the top holds.

V2Boulder

1.32. Prices Cave (bouldering) 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.047526, -34.029134

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Turnaround

The impressive crack. It has only been toproped so free it if you dare!

V5 RBoulder
2 *** Magnum

3m right of the crack, crawl into the back of the black dark cave...no go even further in again...go on, all the way.

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

V10Boulder
3 ** Hermit House

10m right of the main cave.

V3Boulder

1.33. Revesby 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.015079, -33.972692

Description:

A crag reflecting the local area; it isn’t the best around but it’s handy, varied and nice enough. The rock is quite rough in places and still needs some traffic to clean it up. The crag is made up of 3 main areas at this stage (and some other bits and pieces), all conveniently located a few metres off a short bush walk through nice suburban bush land. There’s plenty of potential for more problems both here and in the surrounding area. The highlights at this stage are Almost a V8 Holden, Sky Bar and The FJ Holden. There’s also some videos of it on Youtube if you'd like to see what it looks like (just type in Revesby Rocks).

Dan Webster on ACAQ. http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=crag&crag_id=760

Approach:

Located on The River Rd Revesby. 1) Park on the side of the road about 70m south of Prince st and find the beginning of the bush walk on the western side of the road (near a rust-red telegraph pole). Follow this up hill till it intersects a path running across the bottom of a rock band. Turn L. The punch bug area is about 70m after this intersection and the Worker’s Club area about 100m. The FJ Holden area is about another 50m past the Worker’s Club and is obvious. OR 2) Park just outside Bill Delauney Reserve (on The River Rd). Cross the road and take the decent path straight up the hill till it meets the main track. The Worker’s Club area is straight up from where the paths meet.

1.33.1. Macro Polo Area 2 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

Not much to write home about. A play on two of the main roads at Revesby shops; Macro ave and Polo st.

Approach:

Walking in from the far end, this is the first little buttress you see. Perhaps 20m past the turn off. See a little buttress with a scoops at its base, and a tree to the left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Macro Polo

Low down on the juggy slot. Straight up via pockets, tending slightly R to crimps.

V3Boulder
2 Polo Polo

Same start in slot. Move R to broken little ramp. Then up to pockets and out R to arete and up.

V4Boulder

1.33.2. Punch Bug Area 7 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

Named after the deceased VW Beatle between the boulders. The shortest, easiest, but lowest quality area here.

Approach:

The first area you come to if walking in from the end. If coming up from the reserve, turn right at the track and walk about 70m.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kafer Car Wash

Pleasant short slabby wall. Needs a clean.

V0Boulder
2 My First Car

It really was. Nice little arête.

V0Boulder
3 The Folk’s Climb

Pleasant short slabby wall. Needs a clean.

V0Boulder
4 Super Bug

Sit start at the left end of the cave. Up and right.

V3Boulder
5 Super Beetle

Same start as Super Bug. Up and left.

V3Boulder
6 Running Board

Sit start at R end of face near tree. Traverse leftward mantling once around corner.

V4Boulder
7 * Soft Top

Sit start with R hand in scoop. Up slopers. Quite nice actually.

V5Boulder

1.33.3. Worker's Club Area 0 routes in Area

Description:

The heart of life and culture in Revesby. A small area made up of a low cave with a tall buttress at its left end.

Approach:

70m past Punch Bug area, or straight in front of you when you come up from the reserve.

1.33.4. FJ Holden Area 2 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

Named after the infamous 1970’s film shot partly in Revesby. The problems in this area are mostly on the large block 15m off the track. Best decent from the top of the block is by bridging with the main cliff line.

Approach:

About 40m past the Worker's club.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** FJ Holden V4Boulder
2 Commodore Station Wagon V4Boulder

1.33.5. Hermit's Hovel Area 0 routes in Area

Description:

Really just a continuation of the cliff line from the FJ Holden area. Left of the big unclimbed cave. Some potential for routes in the caves beneath the Hermit’s Hovel.

Approach:

Just beyond the FJ Holden area.

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
6 * Gumboot Ridge Sport 12m, 3 1.9.1. Right-Hand Slabs
Tarmac Traverse Sport 10m 1.9.2. Main Crag
NFI Crack Unknown 6m 1.18. The Wastelands
7 Spasticosis Unknown 7m 1.18. The Wastelands
10 A Unknown 4m 1.3. Oatley Park
B Unknown 4m 1.3. Oatley Park
Side Tracked Trad 10m 1.10.1. Main Area
Tilba Tilba Trad 8m 1.10.1. Main Area
Unknown on block left Unknown 8m 1.10.1. Main Area
unknown on block left Unknown 8m 1.10.1. Main Area
Duncan DS Sport 6m, 1 1.20. Bluebell
11 Christmas Nuts Trad 10m 1.10.1. Main Area
In Depth Trad 10m 1.10.1. Main Area
* A Unknown 25m 1.17. Heathcote Weir
B Unknown 35m 1.17. Heathcote Weir
Duncan Sport 7m, 2 1.20. Bluebell
12 ** Plimsole Line Sport 15m, 3 1.9.1. Right-Hand Slabs
Mike's Photogenic Crack Trad 10m 1.10.1. Main Area
Rainman Top rope 6m 1.10.1. Main Area
Rockclimber's Waltz Trad 7m 1.10.1. Main Area
The Right Edge Trad 10m 1.11. Bonnet Bay
Tiptoe Ridge Trad 12m 1.11. Bonnet Bay
Atomic Thunderbuster Sport 7m 1.16. Lucas Heights
Dildo Comes Again Unknown 5m 1.18. The Wastelands
Galactic Crack Unknown 6m 1.18. The Wastelands
Pandora's Pillar Sport 6m 1.18. The Wastelands
Boy Martin's Muck Unknown 4m 1.22. Bass and Flinder's Point
13 E Unknown 8m 1.3. Oatley Park
Chimknee Unknown 15m 1.7. Picnic Point
Shlonging the Nurse Trad 10m 1.8. Illawong
Aero Arete Trad 8m 1.9.2. Main Crag
* Head Injuries Sport 6m 1.9.2. Main Crag
Farway Sport 8m, 3 1.10.1. Main Area
Midway Sport 8m, 3 1.10.1. Main Area
Zulu Trainer Sport 10m 1.10.1. Main Area
Faith Unknown 9m 1.18. The Wastelands
* Beginner's Flight Trad 10m 1.19. The Wok
Holocaust Trad 8m 1.19. The Wok
Mark's Blunder Trad 15m 1.19. The Wok
Fungus Friction Unknown 4m 1.22. Bass and Flinder's Point
14 D Unknown 6m 1.3. Oatley Park
* Ada's Classic Traffic Escape Unknown 28m 1.5.1. Bridge North Side
No Hands Unknown 11m 1.5.3. Moonah Road
Guerrilla Warfare Unknown 8m 1.9.2. Main Crag
* Jack and the Beanstalk Unknown 8m 1.9.2. Main Crag
Shoot That Dog Trad 10m 1.9.2. Main Crag
Get Tracked Trad 11m 1.10.1. Main Area
Get Walking Sport 9m, 3 1.10.1. Main Area
Mystery Climb Mixed 5m, 1 1.13. Janalli
King Kong's Bum Unknown 10m 1.18. The Wastelands
Psychedelic Nightmare Unknown 7m 1.18. The Wastelands
Temporary Insanity Unknown 7m 1.18. The Wastelands
Beginner's Flight Direct Mixed 6m, 1 1.19. The Wok
Zara Sport 7m, 1 1.20. Bluebell
Kidney Crank Unknown 8m 1.22. Bass and Flinder's Point
15 C Unknown 6m 1.3. Oatley Park
Q Ball Unknown 11m 1.5.3. Moonah Road
Blood from the Territory Sport 8m 1.8. Illawong
Olympic Spirit Sport 8m, 2 1.8. Illawong
Troada Sport 10m, 4 1.8. Illawong
Axe Grinder Sport 8m 1.9.2. Main Crag
Ali Trad 5m 1.10.1. Main Area
Lean Too Trad 15m 1.10.1. Main Area
Slobbery Dog Trad 6m 1.10.1. Main Area
Zip Sport 8m 1.10.1. Main Area
Around the corner from D Unknown 10m 1.11. Bonnet Bay
F Unknown 10m 1.11. Bonnet Bay
The Chimney Sport 12m, 3 1.11. Bonnet Bay
The Easy Root Trad 10m 1.11. Bonnet Bay
The Jungle Book Sport 9m, 3 1.11. Bonnet Bay
* Music of the Night Sport 8m, 3 1.13. Janalli
Party Rough Tongue Mixed 7m, 1 1.16. Lucas Heights
* A Direct Start Unknown 12m 1.17. Heathcote Weir
* Conan and the Gonad Cruncher Sport 9m 1.18. The Wastelands
Cowboy Caviar Sport 6m 1.18. The Wastelands
* Highway Neanderthal Unknown 7m 1.18. The Wastelands
Love Letters From Tasmania Unknown 8m 1.18. The Wastelands
Pot of Gold Unknown 9m 1.18. The Wastelands
Pyro Monkey Unknown 7m 1.18. The Wastelands
Snowbound Unknown 9m 1.18. The Wastelands
Swimming in a Sea of Sand Unknown 8m 1.18. The Wastelands
Mahamic Destruction Sport 8m, 2 1.19. The Wok
* Make or Break Sport 11m, 2 1.19. The Wok
Trust Me I Used Araldite Sport 7m 1.20. Bluebell
V0 Frost Fruit Boulder 1.12.1. Fig Tree Walls
Holey Moley Boulder 1.12.1. Fig Tree Walls
Juggy warm up vertical Boulder 1.14. Jannali Reserve (Bouldering)
B2 Boulder 1.23.1. Cops Are Tops Cave
Bimbo Jimbo Boulder 1.25. The Fish Boulders
Coin slot Boulder 1.25. The Fish Boulders
Himbo Jimbo Boulder 1.25. The Fish Boulders
Mighty Midgets Boulder 1.25. The Fish Boulders
Mmm...Jugs... Boulder 1.25. The Fish Boulders
Money box Boulder 1.25. The Fish Boulders
Plumbers Crack Boulder 1.25. The Fish Boulders
Slab of death Boulder 1.25. The Fish Boulders
hooters Boulder 1.25. The Fish Boulders
** Juggy Prow Boulder 1.31. Woronora Lookout (bouldering)
Kathy's Crack Boulder 1.31. Woronora Lookout (bouldering)
Pumpty Dumpty Boulder 6m 1.31. Woronora Lookout (bouldering)
Kafer Car Wash Boulder 1.33.2. Punch Bug Area
My First Car Boulder 1.33.2. Punch Bug Area
The Folk’s Climb Boulder 1.33.2. Punch Bug Area
16 baldbearings Sport 15m 1.2. Bald Face Point
F Unknown 8m 1.3. Oatley Park
Green Frogs and Liver Sport 6m 1.5.2. Main Area
Sideline Jack Sport 14m 1.5.2. Main Area
* Angel 125 Unknown 10m 1.8. Illawong
Flaky Sport 10m, 3 1.8. Illawong
* Oh the Humidity Trad 6m 1.9.1. Right-Hand Slabs
** Andromedary Sport 15m, 4 1.9.2. Main Crag
Cathedral Quack Sport 8m 1.9.2. Main Crag
Cosmic Cruncher Sport 8m 1.9.2. Main Crag
Neuron Nerd Sport 8m 1.9.2. Main Crag
Suicidal Tendencies Sport 8m 1.9.2. Main Crag
* Andrew's Bulge Sport 8m, 3 1.10.1. Main Area
Dorothy May Sport 15m, 3 1.10.1. Main Area
Grandma's Python Sport 10m, 5 1.10.1. Main Area
Grandma's Wheelchair Sport 10m, 4 1.10.1. Main Area
Head Butte Trad 6m 1.10.1. Main Area
Skulduggery Trad 9m 1.10.1. Main Area
Climb at Own Risk Sport 12m 1.11. Bonnet Bay
Premature Evacuation Sport 8m, 3 1.11. Bonnet Bay
Suburban Crack Fiend Trad 6m 1.11. Bonnet Bay
* Budawang Barking Beetle Trad 12m 1.15. Barden Ridge
* Asking for Action Sport 8m 1.18. The Wastelands
I'm On Fire Sport 7m 1.18. The Wastelands
Ocean of Wind Sport 15m 1.18. The Wastelands
Sabrina Unknown 7m 1.18. The Wastelands
Dragnet Trad 15m 1.19. The Wok
** Full Pants Trad 10m 1.19. The Wok
* Hey Cornflake Sport 4m 1.19. The Wok
** Incredible Egg Sport 10m, 2 1.19. The Wok
Anika Sport 8m, 2 1.20. Bluebell
Nathan Sport 9m, 3 1.20. Bluebell
* Sparky Sport 10m 1.20. Bluebell
17 * Vintage Cuvée Mixed 15m, 2 1.5.2. Main Area
Rambozo the Clown Unknown 11m 1.5.3. Moonah Road
Stressed Out Unknown 8m 1.5.3. Moonah Road
Junk Mail Unknown 10m 1.7. Picnic Point
* UFA Sport 10m 1.7. Picnic Point
UFA Variant Unknown 10m 1.7. Picnic Point
* Bulges Sport 10m, 3 1.8. Illawong
Butt Ugly with Gravy Sport 7m, 2 1.8. Illawong
Dodgy Bolt Sport 10m, 3 1.8. Illawong
Open the Pod Bay Door Hal Sport 10m, 3 1.8. Illawong
Trivial Pursuit Sport 10m, 3 1.9.1. Right-Hand Slabs
** Ozone Action Mixed 20m, 3 1.9.2. Main Crag
Grotto Crack Sport 9m, 2 1.10.1. Main Area
Pitted Arete Trad 10m 1.10.1. Main Area
Python Sport 8m, 2 1.10.1. Main Area
* The Whorl Sport 16m, 2 1.10.1. Main Area
Unzip Sport 10m 1.10.1. Main Area
* Bruised and Scratched Sport 15m, 5 1.11. Bonnet Bay
Lumberjack Sport 15m, 4 1.11. Bonnet Bay
Mildly Bent Sport 11m, 3 1.11. Bonnet Bay
Roger Trad 7m 1.13. Janalli
A Unknown 6m 1.15. Barden Ridge
* Errant Edge Trad 12m 1.15. Barden Ridge
* Gotta Love This City Sport 12m 1.15. Barden Ridge
** Gymea Lilly Trad 8m 1.15. Barden Ridge
* Her Name is Iris Sport 6m 1.15. Barden Ridge
* Dave's Toaster Trad 8m 1.18. The Wastelands
Dodging the Elements Sport 15m 1.18. The Wastelands
El Crapo Unknown 6m 1.18. The Wastelands
Get It On Sport 8m 1.18. The Wastelands
I'd Rather Be Climbin' Unknown 8m 1.18. The Wastelands
Mulch Mattress Unknown 10m 1.18. The Wastelands
No Wasted Space Unknown 15m 1.18. The Wastelands
* Weirding Way Unknown 15m 1.18. The Wastelands
* Yosemite Sam Unknown 10m 1.18. The Wastelands
Iron Balls Sport 12m 1.19. The Wok
Lemon Curry Trad 13m 1.19. The Wok
* Metropolis Trad 10m 1.19. The Wok
Aldo's Amazing Razzle Dazzle Unknown 8m 1.22. Bass and Flinder's Point
Igor's oxygen bottle Unknown 1.29. Camp Wanawong
17 to 18 * Vitez LH finish Trad 25m 1.9.2. Main Crag
V0+ Fig Trees And Funnelwebs Boulder 1.12.1. Fig Tree Walls
18 G Unknown 6m 1.3. Oatley Park
* Prix Sport 12m, 4 1.4. Lugarno
Brown Hornet Sport 15m, 6 1.5.2. Main Area
Fabulous Muppet Show Sport 5m 1.5.2. Main Area
Necropolis Kidney Sport 15m 1.5.2. Main Area
Suburbanitis Sport 15m, 6 1.5.2. Main Area
Diving Off the Stage Unknown 10m 1.5.3. Moonah Road
* Breakfast Radio Trad 8m 1.8. Illawong
Chicken Therapy Trad 10m 1.8. Illawong
* Pissing With the Wind Sport 10m, 4 1.8. Illawong
** Boot Flake Sport 6m, 2 1.9.1. Right-Hand Slabs
** Buffalo Bum Trad 18m 1.9.1. Right-Hand Slabs
** Monopoly Sport 10m, 3 1.9.1. Right-Hand Slabs
** Wire Brush and Dettol Sport 18m 1.9.1. Right-Hand Slabs
* Dobster's Diabolical Dihedral Trad 15m 1.9.2. Main Crag
* Get Out of Town Trad 25m 1.9.2. Main Crag
Stainless Mystery Trad 30m 1.9.2. Main Crag
Vitez Trad 25m 1.9.2. Main Crag
Billabong Sport 5m 1.10.1. Main Area
Egg Rings Sport 15m, 4 1.10.1. Main Area
End of the Line Mixed 12m, 4 1.10.1. Main Area
Grandma's Wheelchair Direct Sport 10m 1.10.1. Main Area
* Voodoo Traverse Trad 15m 1.10.1. Main Area
* Tull's Ball-tearer Unknown 12m 1.10.2. Lost World
G Unknown 10m 1.11. Bonnet Bay
* Glorious Manglervision Sport 13m, 3 1.11. Bonnet Bay
India Unknown 10m 1.11. Bonnet Bay
Mowgli Sport 10m, 3 1.11. Bonnet Bay
* Offalwidth Mixed 16m, 3 1.11. Bonnet Bay
Overkilled Sport 10m, 3 1.11. Bonnet Bay
* Stopping Short Sport 10m, 2 1.11. Bonnet Bay
Masquerade Sport 8m, 3 1.13. Janalli
Let the Games Begin! Trad 14m 1.15. Barden Ridge
* Fusions Sport 14m, 5 1.16. Lucas Heights
Courting Notoriety Trad 8m 1.18. The Wastelands
* Dancing With Dolphins Unknown 9m 1.18. The Wastelands
Nancyboy Sport 7m 1.18. The Wastelands
Ordinary People Unknown 7m 1.18. The Wastelands
* Vengeance Unknown 7m 1.18. The Wastelands
* Who's the Joker Sport 8m 1.18. The Wastelands
Fungus Cruncher Sport 6m 1.19. The Wok
Heathcote Homo Sport 10m, 3 1.20. Bluebell
Lobotomised Trad 15m 1.20. Bluebell
Screaming Cockatoos Sport 10m 1.20. Bluebell
* Arse Master Unknown 9m 1.21. Dickhead's Area
19 H Unknown 6m 1.3. Oatley Park
* Brother Sun Sport 15m, 6 1.5.2. Main Area
* Viva La Papa Unknown 15m, 5 1.5.2. Main Area
Dyno Unknown 11m 1.5.3. Moonah Road
Troada Direct Start Sport 8m 1.8. Illawong
* Sorcerer's Apprentice Sport 10m, 2 1.9.2. Main Crag
** Wacky Tabacci Sport 25m 1.9.2. Main Crag
Bangor Tiger Sport 10m 1.10.1. Main Area
Buzz Boys Beat Trad 9m 1.10.1. Main Area
* Fixed Steps Sport 10m, 3 1.10.1. Main Area
Python Direct Sport 10m, 1 1.10.1. Main Area
H Unknown 10m 1.11. Bonnet Bay
Cenotaph Sport 7m, 6 1.13. Janalli
* Avian Avarice Unknown 8m 1.18. The Wastelands
* Cranky Jaws Unknown 7m 1.18. The Wastelands
* Cream Sport 8m 1.18. The Wastelands
To Catch a Thief Unknown 6m 1.18. The Wastelands
* Grim Reaper Sport 10m, 2 1.19. The Wok
* Ripper Rita Mixed 10m, 1 1.19. The Wok
* Meltdown Sport 10m 1.20. Bluebell
Dyke Flinders Unknown 5m 1.22. Bass and Flinder's Point
V1 A Bridge Too Far Boulder 4m 1.1.1. The Front Row
Reversing Trucks Go Beep Boulder 4m 1.1.1. The Front Row
Ferntree Gully Boulder 1.12.1. Fig Tree Walls
** Boobs Boulder 1.23.2. The Villas Cliffs
* Fumy Webs Boulder 1.23.2. The Villas Cliffs
Continuous playback Boulder 1.25. The Fish Boulders
Wombat lover Boulder 1.25. The Fish Boulders
Flied Lice Boulder 1.26. Dead Chinaman's Wall
Floater Boulder 1.26. Dead Chinaman's Wall
Going Home Boulder 1.26. Dead Chinaman's Wall
Cremated Remains Boulder 6m 1.27. The Cemetery (Bouldering)
Exit Wounds Boulder 1.27. The Cemetery (Bouldering)
Ghost line Boulder 6m 1.27. The Cemetery (Bouldering)
Street Fighting Man Boulder 1.28. Sandshoes (bouldering)
?? Boulder 1.31. Woronora Lookout (bouldering)
* Crimp Seam Boulder 1.31. Woronora Lookout (bouldering)
* Jug City Boulder 6m 1.31. Woronora Lookout (bouldering)
** Zircon Boulder 1.31. Woronora Lookout (bouldering)
19 to 20 The Shire Republic Sport 12m, 3 1.10.1. Main Area
20 Mr Plod Sport 12m 1.4. Lugarno
** Rhythm and Bondage Sport 12m 1.4. Lugarno
Mad Bolter Sport 7m 1.5.2. Main Area
Vintage Direct Sport 15m, 2 1.5.2. Main Area
Thin Then Steep Unknown 11m 1.5.3. Moonah Road
* Underpants on the Outside Sport 10m 1.5.4. Lomandra Place
Cranking Like a Lemon Unknown 10m 1.7. Picnic Point
Dykes on Bikes (project) Unknown 9m 1.8. Illawong
* Mr Squiggle Sport 15m, 4 1.9.1. Right-Hand Slabs
* Tourniquet Trad 18m 1.9.1. Right-Hand Slabs
*** Wench in a Trench Mixed 18m, 2 1.9.1. Right-Hand Slabs
Bundy's been bolting Sport 15m, 6 1.9.2. Main Crag
* Layback Crack Sport 12m 1.9.2. Main Crag
* Mushroom Mantle Sport 12m 1.9.2. Main Crag
** Retro Crack Sport 25m 1.9.2. Main Crag
** The Quartermass Xperiment Sport 12m, 3 1.9.2. Main Crag
A Loving Hole Sport 10m, 3 1.10.1. Main Area
* B Sport 12m, 3 1.10.1. Main Area
Dynamic Winter Trad 10m 1.10.1. Main Area
Pyromaniac Sport 9m, 3 1.10.1. Main Area
Shire Riot Sport 10m, 4 1.10.1. Main Area
Sports Injury Clinic Sport 10m, 3 1.10.1. Main Area
Grunting and Groaning Unknown 17m 1.10.2. Lost World
* Screaming Pretty Unknown 17m 1.10.2. Lost World
Can We Leave Now? Sport 8m, 3 1.13. Janalli
Rod's Rodeo Sport 8m 1.15. Barden Ridge
A Unknown 5m 1.18. The Wastelands
Alley Boys Unknown 15m 1.18. The Wastelands
* Breathless Unknown 15m 1.18. The Wastelands
Contrived Pate Trad 8m 1.18. The Wastelands
* Eat More Onions Sport 6m 1.18. The Wastelands
* Fatboy Sport 10m 1.18. The Wastelands
* Finger Lickin' Good Sport 10m 1.18. The Wastelands
Kon Bon Wa Unknown 8m 1.18. The Wastelands
* Love Mission Trad 7m 1.18. The Wastelands
Mortal Sin Unknown 8m 1.18. The Wastelands
* Plummet Earth Eats Worms Unknown 9m 1.18. The Wastelands
* Stormy Rocks Sport 15m 1.18. The Wastelands