Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Sutherland 814 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.025923, -34.024239

Unique Features And Strengths:

The Shire has a long history of climbing. Accessible cliffs, routes you do not have to die for and a variety of locations keep the suburbanite climbers happy. Because of the not so steep nature of much of the sandstone in the area, a lot of routes are of a moderate grade making it a good place for new climbers to develop their craft.

Description:

Most of the climbing can be found on the rim of the hills, overlooking the Woronora River and Georges Rivers. The rock is the usual Sydney sandstone but the Cathedral has a a weird type of stone that is a refreshing change from the norm.

Access Issues:

There is easy access to all the sites with an average walking time from car to cliff being under five minutes! To get the Shire drive south towards Wollongong from the Sydney CDB or take the Heathcote Road if coming from the South West. West Sydney climbers can approach aiming for Menai. Alternatively, take the train. Some areas in national parks are off limits and permission may be sought for crags such as the Wok, Heathcote Bridge and Alford's Point.

History:

Climbing has been going on since the 1960's in the Shire. Gossip has it that an old doctor used to play around the cliffs on the Woronora River in those early years. Joe Friend was also known to climb here back in the 1970's. You can find some old pitons, pin scars at odd locations such as the Heathcote Bridge, Menai area and at the Cathederal. It was common that Scouts and at times the Army regularly frequented places like Menai, Lucas Heights and Alfords Point.

The 1980's saw a steep rise in development with climbers from the Loftus Crew, Anthony Scharnbel,Damian Taylor and Bruce Stevens. A big influence in the 1980-1990's was David Barnes. Dave developed several new areas and put up scores of routes across the shire, including the classic routes at Rainbow Wall and Ruthless Babe and a handful of others at Heathcote. He has now moved onto Tassie. Mikl of course had flurries of activity at the Cathedral, Bonnett Bay and Heathcote when he was working with Homer Simpson at the Lucas Heights Nuclear facility. A Young Graham Fairburn made a good contribution to the Cathederal, before growing muscles at Nowra.

In the last ten years Jason Lammers has added new routes as well as re-bolting the old routes, lower offs and rings have been added to most shire crags now. As of 2010 Neil Monteith has been living in the area so a new chapter of history is a given. What will you add? DB

1.1. Bald Face Point 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 151.102870, -34.000373

Description:© (nmonteith)

Possibly the worst crag in Sydney. A loose uninviting quarry with an assortment of rubbish at the base. In 'Melbourne' it would be popular - but in Sydney it should be forgotten.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Bald Face Point Reserve at the southern end of Stuart St in Blakehurst. The cliff is directly below the lookout. Scramble down the left side.

1.2. Oatley Park 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 151.056823, -33.985350

Description:© (nmonteith)

Very pleasant easy trad climbing in a scenic location perched above the Georges River. An area that has a lot of rock, but unfortunately not a lot that is climbable.

To get to the crag, find 'Oatley Park' in the street directory, and follow the one way circuit (Christensen Drive) until you find Webster 'Lookout' (signposted). All of the listed routes are located below this lookout, and have top rope bolts.

All routes described left to right (facing the cliff).

1.3. Lugarno 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 151.044563, -33.990798

Description:© (nmonteith)

Absolute roadside cragging! A generally slabby and unfashionable cliff with a fair selection of mid to hard grade routes. Some of these routes were retro-chipped in the 90s. Most routes are now covered in dirt and lichen . Be VERY CAREFUL not to drop rocks onto the road which is literally centimeters from the crag.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

To get to the crag, drive south down Forest Rd, 'Lugarno', and stop about 200m from its end. The cliff is located on the right hand side of the road (watch out for cars).

1.4. Alford's Point 55 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.027883, -33.986725

Description:

This area was known as a Scout abseiling hangout for many years. Because of its weird access off the freeway it avoided the crowds for years. In the early 1990's the area was visited by Chris Wallace, Dave Barnes and the growing crowd from the new local gym at the time, The Rocknasium. This is when many of the established routes were done. A day underneath the high Voltage wires, on a cliff a little larger then the normal shire stone, with ten second access from your car,makes for a good day out.

Approach:

The crag is located on the eastern side of Alford's Point Rd, south of the Alford's Point Bridge. The new bridge and road works have changed access. Park in Maxwell Close and walk back (north) along the bike path along Alford's Point Rd for a couple of hundred meters until you see a thin concrete pillar 1m high in the bush with white and blue stickers, and extensive views out east over the river. The crag is below. There is an easy scramble down to the base at the southern end of the cliff (right hand, facing river). Sometimes there is a hermit living in the cave near "Green Frogs and Liver", he is not too scary so say hello! The crag is located within Georges River National Park.

1.4.1. Bridge North Side 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.4.2. Alford Point Main Area 41 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 151.027883, -33.986725

Description:

A major Shire destination crag, with a heap of quality sport routes now that everything has been retrobolted. Great on a cold winter's morning

Approach:

The carpark 12 seconds from the clifftop is now for emergency vehicles only, so park at the end of Maxwell Cres, walk down the path towards the freeway, turn R (N) and walk 50m till you're between the carpark and the cliff.

1.4.3. Moonah Road 7 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Trad

1.4.4. Alford's 2 Point 0 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.032531, -33.978866

Unique Features And Strengths:

Two smallish, distinct areas of mostly solid rock with a lovely outlook. Potential for a good few more problems.

Description:

A varied but somewhat limited crag made up of two small areas. One, The Project Wall is an excellent wall; decent height, solid rock, bulging... but sadly, pretty featureless. The second area (Alfred's Monument) is a large rock (or several) perched atop another smaller rock, making for decent rooves and hard headwalls. There's plenty more potential here and in the surrounding area. I'm moving away so probably won't add much more. Have a go!

Approach:

The crag is on the south eastern side of the Alford's point bridge. Park either as for Alford's Point climbing, or if you're game, pull over directly after coming off the bridge. Walk down hill past the locked gate and down the sealed road for about 50m. When you notice the rocky gutter on the right forming a run off (which has a white post at the end) walk down this for a few meters. Then notice a tree on the right with a fork. Walk towards it. You should then pick up a trail of cairns. Follow these up the hill and left towards the sweet looking cliff. On the way across, you'll see Alfred's Monument up above you.

History:

Dan Webster came accross this area in 2012 while living in Revesby. Not sure it's seen any other visits?!

1.4.5. Alford's Playground 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

An undeveloped jumble of various sized blocks and cliffs in a bracken fern forest above the river.

Description:

A totally different bouldering experience to anything else I've come across in the area! Adventure bouldering?! Basically, this area is made up of a mess of short cliff lines with boulders below it, for a stretch of about 50m (though there's loads of scattered boulders further along on each side), situated in a cool bracken fern forest, all perched above a quiet and attractive part of the George's River. There's some sweet aretes, slabs, rooves, traverses, then ledges to shimmy cross and tunnels to go through. There's so much rock all over the place (some shabby, some great), I don't know how to document it! So I've decided not to. Just go down there and climb something!

Approach:

Park as for Alford's Point Climbing. Walk back towards the bridge till you find the sealed fire trail through a locked gate which goes straight up the hill (about 100m past the end of the bridge). Go up the hill through the gate, then follow the trail as it flattens out. At the fork, go right (the main trail). Soon you'll see the power lines above you (a helpful guide). Turn right at some point to the dead end where the power pole tower thing is. Find the trail of cairns (slightly to the left of the dead end). This goes down the hill, off a boulder, turns right and crosses a fallen tree, straight again, then left for a bit, before turning tight right to the cliff edge. Go down and start exploring! An easy way to the Amped-theatre and other boulders is to turn right after the first drop, follow the ledge, then down left to the very bottom, and right below a boulder. This is a top stop to start.

History:

Dan Webster discovered this area while exploring the area in 2012. Too much rock around to develop.

1.5. Alfords Point Bouldering 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.025610, -33.979418

Description:© (secretary)

A great little overhang made of hard Sydney sandstone plus a couple of slabs in a nice bushland setting overlooking the Woronora River. 'Problems' here are long, pumpy with some interesting top outs, power endurance fitness required here. Home of 'Love Gun' (V10) - one of the best roof problems in Sydney. Recently featured on the bouldering DVD 24-8. The crag gets the morning shade.

Approach:© (secretary)

Location: Find Stringybark Place in Alford's Point, and after about 50m park on the left near a group of boulders. Go down the hill with this feature on the left, after about 25m find a faint track that goes left and down, another 35m and a forked tree at a rough cliff line appears, go left along the cliff line and the sexy cave will appear.

1.6. Picnic Point 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 151.008550, -33.980648

Description:

Lots of top rope potential, with many cliff top anchor points. There are a few sport routes bolted, however i would recommend checking all bolts before use. Many are old carrots that have seen better days.

Approach:

Park near the speed camera on Henry Lawson Drive. Cross onto the southern side of the road and walk 50m East. A series of tracks should be visible in the scrub near the road. These tracks all lead to the cliff top. There are 2 or 3 points along the face that can be scrambled down to the cliff base.

1.7. Lomandra Place Cave 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 151.018877, -33.986448

Description:

An impressive cave with many ultra hard projects, a couple of mid grade sport routes and one trad roof crack. The cliff faces south-west and is in the shade for almost all of the day.

Approach:

Drive to #6 Lomandra Place, Alfords Point. Park on grassy area next to bush. Walk downhill through bush in a south-western direction following rock cairns for 120m to top of cliff. It is a bit hard to spot as it's actually quite short but mega overhung. About 5 minutes walk from the carpark.

Descent Notes:

Lower-offs or backjump.

History:

Originally developed by Cameron Taylor in 2009, he left one route and a slew of impossible looking unfinished projects. The crag reinvigorated by Monty in 2014.

1.8. Illawong 23 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 151.042365, -34.004834

Description:

This has to be one of the easiest accessed cliffs in Sydney. A dozen very doable and well protected routes for the after work, suburban fix. Skin is a must do, if you can do it?

Approach:© (Zack)

Drive about two thirds of the way down Redman Ave in 'Illawong'. Park opposite number 31. The cliff is located about 10m directly off the road, with descents at either end of the cliff.

1.9. Moonah Rd Crag 0 routes in Cliff

Description:

A short, easy access crag above the Georges River. Because of the low angle many of these routes need rebrushing. The speedboat wankers are in full effect in summer, but since the cliff faces north it's not exactly prime climbing season. The bolts that exist here are old and rusted and should be replaced. A hazard reduction burn of the bush here in 2013 has left all the belay trees charred and sooty. Further right of these described routes is a small orange cave with signs of prior Aboriginal occupation. Please don't climb here.

Approach:

Park across the road from 29 Moonah Rd, Alford's Pt. The cliff is about 60m down into the bush. Access from either end by scrambling down. Left end (facing out) has a handy gully ramp which is the easiest way down. Avoid the crag in summer, since it faces basically north and hence bakes. The crag is located within the George's River National Park and access can be best described as "Don't Ask - Don't Tell". Climbs described right to left, facing the cliff.

History:

1.10. The Cathedral Woronora 99 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.030896, -34.023837

Description:© (bundybear)

The Cathedral just off the banks of the Woronora River in the heart of the Shire. It's is possibly the highest crag in Sydney town with a height of 30m in some sections, with great rock its hard to think why the crag does not get more visitors. This crag has something for everyone from 3star 28's, great sporty little 16s, and possibly the hardest trad climb in NSW.

Approach:© (bundybear)

Maybe the old access, was why not too many dudes visited this crag. With the construction of the new Bangor bypass things have now changed. Instead of the 30min walk along the river, there is now a 5 min walk down a hill to the top of crag, and then a short scramble around to the right (facing the river) to the base of the cliff. This track is still quite new and does not have escalators installed so may be a little rough for the next few months.

'The Cathedral' can now be accessed from Shackel road, Bangor. If coming from Sutherland, drive over the big new bridge over the river, then take the next left into Akuna (as for 'Bangor West' crag), follow this until it turns in to Menai Rd, turn left again into Pyree street, follow this until you are at Bangor school, then left again in Shackel Rd - this goes under the new bypass. Park at the dead end (there is not a parking station installed here so plz try and be nice to the locals). Now follow the track (marked with red and white tags) down the hill to the crag.

Some people may perfer the original access, this involves a longer but easier (flatter) walk along the river.

"

To get to the crag, park in Prince Edward Park in Woronora (or walk down the hill from Sutherland railway station). Cross the footbridge, turn left and follow the track along the river for about 1km. Although you walk past the right hand slabs first, they aren't as obvious as the main wall, which looms above the track about 20m to the right. Bash up through the jungle to the base of the crag. Estimated walking time: 30 min"

1.10.1. The Wedges 19 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

Funky highball easy slabs (with anchors for toproping)

Approach:

Walk down 2 minutes as for the cathedral till you get to a little rock step. Go straight ahead under a little cave where the first problems are. Go 10m then down to the base of the first wedge.

1.10.2. Main Crag 80 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 151.030694, -34.023839

Description:

This Cathedral, named after the “holy” feature in the centre of the main crag, is a rare find for Sydney suburban climbing. Firstly, it's 25 meters high and the rock is not your average Sydney sandstone which makes for some variety. Secondly, the weird location, the tall trees and the huge mosquitoes give this place a Jurassic Park adventurer like feeling.

People, including Joe Friend, were known to have climbed here way back in the 1970's but in the most part it went underneath the radar. In 1990 two puny teenagers, Kent Heffernan and Graham Fairburn unearthed the place establishing many of the classics. They soon attracted the sharks, Dave Barnes and Mike Law and his band of merry men (and women). Bruce Stevens and his local crew also were working on some hard projects here. There are some wicked cracks to jump on and some technical face and slab routes sprinkled throughout. My favorites are Ozone Action (17) and Hercules (22). There is also a slabby bouldering area on the walk in, described in the SRC guide (below).

There is now a good access route from Menai at the top. P.S. Sorry fella’s, I lost the padlock key to the bracket on Jaded Cravings (23) Doh. However, the padlock does add character to the climb. Have fun. Barnsey

Routes are described left to right as you face the crag.

Approach:

Park at the end of Shackel Rd, Bangor. Please don't fill up the street and block access for locals. If there are a few cars about then park 50m further up the hill. Locate the track heading down into the bush on the left. It is marked with tape and first heads across the shallow gully, then heads down through a little rock band. Veer right at the cliff and down and gully then left. The first route is the little corner of Sorcerer's Apprentice.

1.11. Bangor West 61 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.034604, -34.024087

Description:

This crag and these routes have been climbed over for more than thirty years. It remains, I am sure, the central point of Shire climbing and the climbing nursery for the area. Why? Easy access, lots of bolts and a close proximity of routes at mild grades, means the general climbing public are cared for. The trade routes like Andrews Bulge (16), Fixed Steps (19), My Girl (23) and Whorl (17) are extremely popular. A novel way to enjoy the crag, or a future goal to achieve, is to tick all of the routes in a day. I have noticed some of the new routes are old routes from the 1980’s. I think every bit of rock has been well and truly climbed on but try telling that to a kid with a drill seeking immortality. Being popular also means it attracts the rubbish so please take your energy bar rappers and your belay slaves with you.

Take salt because you or one of your buddies will most definitely get attacked by leaches.

Approach:

To get there park at the end of Arunta Close, and walk down the fire trail between the houses. The decent gully is just to the right as you walk towards the river. It's a hop, skip, and a jump to get down, so be careful! Alternatively If you can't get down the gully safely, walk to your left for about 30m where you will find two ring bolts perfect for rapping in on. But be warned, ascending up with a heavy pack is not easy so only rap in if you need to.

1.12. Lost World 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 151.036944, -34.024555

Description:

One of the taller and better sport cliffs in The Shire, and shady for most of the day as it faces south. Routes are generally quite sustained, with superb rock quality and interesting sloping pocket features. The downside is the vegetation and the small amount of routes. Seepage can be a problem after heavy rain. Recent rebolting and rebrushing has brought this cliff back to it's former 80s glory. Top-roping is very easy to setup, most routes you can reach over the edge to ring bolt anchors. This cliff requires traffic to stay clean - so get out there! Better guide and topos on:- http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/confluence/display/nswrock/Lost+World

Approach:

To get there, find Koorabar Road in Bangor and park at the southern end of the street. Walk to right edge (west) of little cleared park (through a gate) to fire track behind houses. Walk west along this track for about 60m to a locked gate (on your right) to a diagonal access lane, walk down the hillside (left) to the edge of the cliff. Locate a small corner about 20m west (R facing downhill) with a cairn atop, descend down ramps (Screaming Pretty is halfway down) and turn right at the base and walk 30m to main cliff.

1.13. Koorabar 17 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.040324, -34.025173

Description:

Insignificant little cliff and cave on the far eastern end of the cliff-line south of Bangor.

Approach:

Park at southern end of Koorabar Road in Bangor (same carpark at Lost World). Walk directly south to powerlines that run down to river far below. Find well-worn walking track heading downhill between boulders under the powerlines and follow this down and left. After 50m or so if turns R and goes down a small set of steps. Continue for about 20m after this then leave the track and head uphill to cliff, skirt R along base of mini cliff to arrive at 10m high cave with painted route name initials at the base of some short steep cracks.

Descent Notes:

Walk off and scramble down on the east side.

History:

Like many of the cliffs in the Shire, this one has been climbed on sometime in the past. Did they lead these routes or top-rope them? Who knows. There are two rusty carrots on top.

1.14. Bangor Blocs 14 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.046024, -34.018286

Description:

Two good blocs overlooking the traffic on the Woronora Bridge

Approach:

Park at the East end of Menai Rd in Bangor, walk down the driveway at the north side and downhill 30m. The driveway continues staright down hill, and a dirt track veers right. Take this right for 30m then left left and up the hill. 4wd or walk for 3 minutes to power pylon. The track veers back south, go for 60m to a small cairn and bash down the hill 50m to Boulder A. Boulder B is 40m R of Boulder A. http://www.thecrag.com/photo/BlocMap.jpg

History:

Develped by Cam

1.14.1. Blocs 14 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.046064, -34.018278

Description:

Two high slabs with steepness to start

Approach:

Park at the East end of Menai Rd in Bangor, walk down the driveway at the north side and downhill 30m. The driveway continues staright down hill, and a dirt track veers right. Take this right for 30m then left left and up the hill. 4wd or walk for 3 minutes to power pylon. The track veers back south, go for 60m to a small cairn (about halfway between the 2 power pylons) and bash down the hill 50m to Boulder A. Boulder B is 40m R of Boulder A.

1.15. Bonnet Bay 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 151.050332, -34.012026

Unique Features And Strengths:

Short single pitch sport climbing with insanely short access. Very kid friendly.

Description:

Bonnet Bay is one of the original and best Shire crags. It is a small area but many of the routes are top notch quality. Lean Beef (24) and Kim (21) are the best routes here. Can be muggy and mosquito ridden in summer. There has been much rebolting in recent years so most climbs are super safe. Keep your noise down as houses are right below the crag. This is a great spot for the kids, with nice level grassy area and only minutes from the car.

Access Issues:

There are houses right below the crag, and nearby bouldering areas have been closed in recent years. Keep your noise down and be friendly to the residents.

Approach:

Park just before the intersection of 188 Washington Drive and Harrison Avenue in 'Bonnet Bay'. Walk back up Washington Road for 40m past the last house to find a track entering bush on the right. Hike up this for 20 seconds to arrive at the climbing. This track is located directly opposite the popular boat ramp. Climbs are named from LEFT to RIGHT as you face the cliff.

Ethic:

Sport sport sport. All of the cracks here are bolted - but were originally led on trad.

History:

There is very little known about the first ascent details of the majority of routes at this crag. Many routes were literally just labeled A, B, C etc in early internet guides. In recent years new names have been made up and grades have been consolidated. If you know anything more please add this info!

1.16. Walrus Rocks (bouldering) 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.051024, -34.011395

Description:

A little section of easier boulder problems along the usual Shire sandstone escarpment. The walk-in is one of the easiest around. This cliff face south and get no sun. Most landings are flat.

Approach:

Park at 41 Buchanan Ave, Bonnet Bay. The top of the cliff is on the other side of the road. 5 second walk-in to the first problem.

History:

May have been climbed on before, but there was very little evidence when Neil Monteith spent half a day doing the majority of problems here in 2015 in between hospital visits for his brand new kid. Cleaning and loose rock removal was required. If you know anything further feel free to update this!

1.17. Bonnet Bay (Bouldering) 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.053894, -34.014497

Access Issues:

The main bouldering cave is CLOSED to all climbing. Please respect this closure as access to other bouldering areas in the Shire depends on it. Council Rangers will be regularly patrolling the area.

1.17.1. Fig Tree Walls 5 routes in Area

Summary:

1.17.2. Bonnet Bay Cave (CLOSED) 12 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.054009, -34.014416

Description:

Bonnet Bay Cave (bouldering area) is officially closed due to the ‘significant environmental sensitivity’ of the area. If anyone is found to be climbing in the area this would be considered to be an offence under the National Parks and Wildlife Act 1974 as it would constitute ‘harm’ to the significant area, under the act. Penalties under the act could be as large as a $275 000 fine and/or 1 year imprisonment.

Council Rangers will be regularly patrolling the area.

History:

Popular as a bouldering spot for 20 years, then closed in mid 2014

1.18. Janali 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 151.059778, -34.016393

Unique Features And Strengths:

Well bolted micro routes with super easy access. If you've done Bangor than maybe give this a go for a couple of hours. Rock is heavily featured - stay away after rain or you will break holds.

Description:

Janali is a great example of a 'local' cliff - extremely short, super easy access and every bit of worthwhile rock has been climbed over. You could climb every good route here in an hour if you are keen. The cliff has insanely short access (under a minute) and top-ropes are easy to setup along the top of the cliff. The crag gets afternoon sun. The cliff does seep a little in places and doesn't receive a lot of traffic - the worst routes here are some of the worst routes in Sydney.

Access Issues:

There are suburban houses right above the left side of the cliff-line. Keep your noise down and park your car with some thought to the locals who live here.

Approach:

Park at end of Taft Place in Jannali and walk down fire trail next to giant water pipe for 40m. Scramble down right and hook back under the scrappy cliff line to arrive at 'Mystery Climb'.

History:

Paul Wheeler and Dave Barnes bolted the first routes here in the mid 90s. Twp decades later Neil Monteith added three other routes in between baby birthing duties.

1.19. The School (Bouldering) 11 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.059865, -34.018788

Description:

Small but well-featured bouldering with excellent sub-V5 problems in peaceful bush land. Rock is heavily featured with routes mostly involving long moves between slopers or jugs. Nice flat landing and clean topouts mean that no mat is required. A major cleanup of trash was done here - so if you see any rubbish left by others please take it out with you.

Approach:

It's located just behind the Yamaha Music School (now the Janalli College SGSCC) off Sutherland Road, opposite Louise St, Janalli. Walk in their entrance gate and around to the right of the first building. Hook around left behind this building and follow small track left through bush and down a little cliff. The bouldering is visible from here on left about 50m away.

1.20. Jannali Reserve 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.056557, -34.018128

Description:

Nice cool spot for an summer arvo session. Faces east and catches the breeze. Great place for beginners with some nice high warm ups with good landings.

Approach:

Park at the Bonnet Bay sign on Tudar Road and walk about 80m into the bush and follow The ledge walking track. After another 100m the cliffline is on the left.

1.21. Barden Ridge 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 151.009102, -34.042696

Description:

Barden Ridge is another Shire Suburban crag fest with a dozen middle grade micro routes. This crag has one one minute access from your car and great views. Watch out for snakes in summer. This joint has been climbed on for many years and I first visited in 1987. Many routes were bolted by Barnesy but they have probably already been done, just as the all those recent routes on the Right end.

Approach:© (secretary)

To get there, drive south along Old 'Illawarra' Road until it becomes Thomas Mitchell Drive. Follow this along the top of the ridge until it starts to drop down and curve around to the left. Park at number 37 or 39 - the crag is located just across the road, about 15m into the bush. The best descent is to the right (facing out), just to the left of the rough stone block retaining wall. This brings you down to the left hand end of the crag (facing the cliff).

1.22. Trackside 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 151.004872, -34.041189

Description:

Small steep crag right next to the Old Illawara fire trail that heads down to the popular Needles swimming spot on the Woronora River. Not a whole lot of potential here but the rock quality is great and the access is super easy. The cliff gets afternoon sun but is short enough that trees give it dappled shade. If it gets all too hot continue down the fireroad to one of the best swimming spots in Sydney.

Approach:

5 minutes downhill walk. The crag is located directly below 81 Thomas Mitchel Drive, Barden Ridge but it is a bit of a scramble down and it's best not to alert the Trueman Show residents of our activities. So instead, park down the road at 83 Old Illawarra Rd, and walk into the bush on the major fireroad. At the first intersection take the left road that leads steeply left and downhill. Follow this for about 100m until a small cliff appears on the left hand side of the track. Look for orange overhang facing north and bolts. Scramble up 10m to base of crag.

Descent Notes:

All routes have lower-offs.

1.23. Lucas Heights 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 151.001984, -34.040747

Unique Features And Strengths:

Steep sport climbing in the mid grades and with all day shade.

Description:

An unusually substantial cliff overlooking the scenic Woronora River set amongst lush forest and within critical meltdown distance of Australia's only nuclear reactor.. The routes generally climb gorgeous steep water worn orange rock up to 20m in length. Most routes are now well bolted with ringbolts & lower-off anchors (2014). It is a good destination during summer since it faces south. Sections of the cliff seep after heavy rain and during winter when it gets no direct sun.

Access Issues:

Trail bikers are a bit of a menace along the dirt tracks above the cliff. Not only do they tear past and make a racket, they also love to chuck their lunch rubbish (and old bikes!) off the top of the cliff, thus the base of the cliff is a bit of a dump. Bring mosquito repellant. Some very angry Peregrine Falcons are in residence during spring.

Approach:

To get to the crag, drive to corner of David Road and Old Illawarra Road in Bardens Ridge. Drive south down Old Illawara Road for 100m and park just before sharp left turn at bushland. Follow a large flat firetrail west taking the right hand most fire trail along the ridge top past two old quarries. At the second major quarry leave the main trail and scramble down left towards the river - look for bit of old engine block marking the top of the descent track. Trend down and right under the scrappy cliff following a vague trail until the real cliff finally emerges from the undergrowth. Climbs described right to left (east to west), facing the cliff.

Ethic:

Everything of worth at this crag is sport-bolted.

History:

Dave Barnes and Chris Wallace in the 90s, Neil Monteith in the 2010s

1.24. Needles Causeway 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 151.005899, -34.046878

Description:

Small section of cliff literally overhanging the dirt road leading south from the causeway at the popular swimming spot of the Needles. Faces north so gets all day sun.

Approach:

You can approach the causeway from either the north or south side of the river. The southern method is slightly shorter. Park near 56 Woronora Rd, Engadine and follow gated bitumen road for 10 minutes downhill. The cliff is on the right about 50m before the river. For the northern approach - park at 83 Old Illawarra Rd, Bardens Ridge and follow gated dirt fireroad downhill to the river. Cross the causeway and the cliff is 50m up the continuation of the road on the left.

Descent Notes:

Lower-offs

History:

100 years ago road builders cut their way down this small cliffline to establish the Old Illawara Rd. Then climbers arrived.

1.25. Heathcote Weir 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown
Description:

This is the cliff you see crossing the Heathcote Road bridge near the Heathcote exit. It was first climbed on a long time ago (1960's)and a few paint marks are evidence of this. There is a nice smooth 8m orange wall above and behind the main cliff and the routes mentioned form part of these.

1.26. Sleaze cave 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.021357, -34.035007

Description:

Two small caves with few problems.

Approach:

Park at the end of Manniken drive, Worronora heights. Walk through fire trail and turn left behind house, turn right after 10 metres then walk diagonally down to the left for 100 metres to the cave.

History:

Luke.W & Grant.S found this place on a dedicated sick day back in 2007.

1.27. The Wastelands 73 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.999433, -34.060081

Description:

This crag has some great suburban climbing and Rainbow Wall remains a great place to test your skills. I really like routes on the Vertex but they may need some cleaning these days. My favourite climb here remains, Plummit Earth Eats Worms.

Approach:© (bundybear)

To get there:

  1. Turn off Princes Hwy at Anzac Ave, Engadine.

  2. Continue along Anzac Ave and turn right into Woronora Road

  3. Turn left at Buckle Ave

  4. Continue along into Mountain St

  5. Turn left into Ardua Place and park near the end.

  6. There is a lane way between the houses, walk down this and then head left and decend down the hill

  7. Scamble down the cliff in the corner near big tree and "Year 7 Girl".

1.27.1. The Vertex 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

1.27.2. The Grandstand 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

1.27.3. Stray Cat's Crag 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.27.4. Aunty Dot's 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad

1.27.5. Rainbow Wall Right Side 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

1.27.6. Rainbow Wall Main Area 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

1.27.7. The pre-bumbly area 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Approach:

Approach by following the cliff either right (when facing the climbs) from Bumbly Buttress or left from Rainbow Wall main area. Love Mission is obvious near the solid looking gum, and the FHs on Hot Chips and Sauce are easy to spot further to the left.

1.27.8. Bumbly Buttress Right Side 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

1.27.9. Bumbly Buttress Left Side 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.27.10. Cave Rock 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.999409, -34.058986

1.28. The Wok 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

This crag houses a dozen easy beginner routes you do not have to die for. A pleasant location and a couple of really nice things makes this a good spot for the bumbly.

Approach:© (glenn_9)

located down in royal national park directly in line with cardiff street. cross railway line and head down goarra ridge firetrail, turn left after 100m down firetrail running parralel to railway line, follow this for roughly 200m to find the crag just on left.

1.29. Bluebell 26 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 151.002432, -34.079551

Description:

A mighty little crag housing some steep Sydney classics. Sandstone, easy access, snakes and ladders, there is much here to keep a smile on your dile. The cliff was descovered by Alan Smith but it was Dave Barnes who did the work in the early 1990's. His routes include 'Gate Keeper' (23) the mega classic, 'Ruthless Babe' (22), 'Bitch'n' (23), 'Welcome to the Body Shop' (21), 'Meltdown' (19) and 'Sparky' (16). Other climbers filled in the gaps and what is left is a dozen pumpy numbers. Beware of the summer snakes in the break of Bitch'n and mindfull of the neighbours at the cliff top, it's their backyard.

Approach:

To get there, find 'Bluebell' Rd, Heathcote, and park at the end. Hop the gate onto the fire trail and follow it around to the left (behind the houses). The crag is located directly below these houses - continue walking for 50m until you are level with a wooden retaining wall of the last house, - you can scramble down to the base of the cliff on an obvious track, .

1.30. Dickhead's Area - CLOSED 17 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Boulder and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 151.071214, -34.062359

Description:

AREA CLOSED

This area is closed to all climbing and has been for a few years. Please respect this closure and do not climb here. A sign is in place advising of the closure and no climbing is permitted. Plenty of other crags in the shire with awesome problems!

1.30.1. Dickheads Cave 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

Bouldering has been banned. The area is closed. Please don't climb here and give the rangers any need to cause more grief to other areas.

1.31. Bass and Flinder's Point 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 151.153370, -34.073053

1.32. The Villas 40 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.050225, -34.025568

Description:© (secretary)

The most extensive of all the Sutherland crags. The jewel in the crown is the Villas cave, however there is some great bouldering on the surrounding cliffline. Crag classics; 'Boobs', 'Burgers', Savage and of course 'Contact' - Australia's first V12.

(Reference-Sydney Bouldering (Peter Balint) & australianbouldering.com (Tim O'Neill)

Approach:© (secretary)

Park at the start of Rata Place, Sutherland, where the big green pipe crosses under the road. Follow the pipe leftwards for about 75m, then drop off right towards the river into the jumbled rocks. After about 15m, you'll be on a vague terrace, head left for 10m for the 'Cops Are Tops Cave', otherwise continue down the dodgy descent for another 30m. The first problems described are about 25m right along the cliff line, next to the exposed pipes. 'The Villas' cave is about 35m in the other direction.

'The Villas' cave gets the shade in the morning.

1.32.1. Cops Are Tops Cave 5 routes in Area

Summary:

1.32.2. The Villas Cliffs 17 routes in Area

Summary:

1.32.3. The Villas Cave 18 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:© (Johan)

This is the business end of town people.

Great warm-up's and all the well known classics.

'Burgers' (V5), Savage(V8/9), Paul's 'Present' (V10) and of course 'Contact' (V12). In the main cave, most of problems finish at the same point, the high juggy ledge just below the main roof in the centre of the cave - refered to as finish.

1.33. Prices Cave 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 151.047526, -34.029134

Description:© (bundybear)

As for bouldering crag...

1.34. The Fish Boulders 31 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.045957, -34.028254

Description:© (secretary)

A splended array of small cliffs and buttresses right near the Woronora River. Flat landings, nice easy to moderate problems. Fun for the whole family and/or a great place to warm up before hitting the harder crags of the area.

Approach:© (secretary)

Off River road, turn into Prince Edward Park road, follow it along through a small round-a-bout and park in the obvious parking area on the right side of the road. The boulders are just over the grassy mound near the river.

1.35. Dead Chinaman's Wall 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.047073, -34.018255

Description:© (bundybear)

If coming from Sutho, cross the big Woronora bridge and take the 1st exit, drive back under the bridge towards the river. Park just b4 the hairpin bend, cross the road at the hairpin, walk past the gate and the 1st boulder will appear. 1 minute access

1.36. The Cemetery (Bouldering) 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

1.36.1. Flight Deck 0 routes in Area

1.37. Sandshoes (bouldering) 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

1.38. Camp Wanawong 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 151.040662, -34.036900

Description:

Compact orange sandstone wall, just west of Camp Wanawong (a private Christian camp). This cliff is used as a kids absquealing area occasionally.

Access Issues:

Keep a very low profile and never walk around on the top of the cliff. The land above (and maybe the cliffs themselves?) is on private property.

Approach:

Approach by walking upstream on the eastern side of Loftus Creek following walking tracks.

Ethic:

Any bolts added here should be low profile.

History:

History is a mystery. Old rusty carrots (80s) are on a few walls and belay bolts are along the top. Glen Short rebolted and possibly added some new routes here (90s??)

1.39. The Wing Cave 30 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.001011, -34.014698

Description:

Steep cave climbing with a surprising amount of top outs.

Approach:

Park in Treloar Place, Menai at the first gated fire trail which leads down the hill - not the one next to the scout hall! Follow the fire trail down to the creek, then follow the creek to the right (downstream) on the opposite side. There is a path that leads you in to the left end of the cave.

1.40. Woronora Lookout (bouldering) 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.045605, -34.030847

Unique Features And Strengths:

Extensive collection of highball bouldering or short top-ropes. Higher routes further left (South).

Access Issues:

Public land

Approach:

This area is behind the Woronora Cemetery in the suburb of Loftus. Park at junction of First and Second Avenue at deadend. Jump the metal gate on the right and walk North along the fence bordering the cemetery. Cross a small creek and turn left, following the zigzag fenceline. Continue on for a hundred metres, ignoring the turn on the left. The track goes up a little rocky hill then turns rightish and goes flat for another hunder metres, Take a big track on the left and walk for 100m to lookout over river and park bench. Scramble down and left from the park bench for 50m to crag. It faces west so gets afternoon sun. There is a fair bit of broken glass around - take care.

Ethic:

Bouldering and top-roping only. No lead bolts!

History:

People have been climbing here for decades

1.41. Prices Cave (bouldering) 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.047526, -34.029134

1.42. DELETE THIS 0 routes in Region

Unique Features And Strengths:

delete this

Approach:

delete this

History:

delete this

1.43. Revesby Rocks 26 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.015079, -33.972692

Description:

Revesby Rocks was the first area established. A pleasent suburban bush walk skirts the base of a small, broken cliff line which is climable from time to time. A crag reflecting the local area; it isn’t the best around but it’s handy, varied and nice enough. The highlights at this stage are Almost a V8 Holden, Sky Bar and The FJ Holden. There’s also some videos of it on Youtube if you'd like to see what it looks like (just type in Revesby Rocks).

Dan Webster on ACAQ. http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=crag&crag_id=760

Access: Located on The River Rd Revesby. 1) Park on the side of the road about 70m south of Prince st and find the beginning of the bush walk on the western side of the road (near a rust-red telegraph pole). Follow this up hill till it intersects a path running across the bottom of a rock band. Turn L. The punch bug area is about 70m after this intersection and the Worker’s Club area about 100m. The FJ Holden area is about another 50m past the Worker’s Club and is obvious. OR 2) Park just outside Bill Delauney Reserve (on The River Rd). Cross the road and take the decent path straight up the hill till it meets the main track. The Worker’s Club area is straight up from where the paths meet.

1.43.1. Macro Polo Area 2 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

Not much to write home about. A play on two of the main roads at Revesby shops; Macro ave and Polo st.

Approach:

Walking in from the far end, this is the first little buttress you see. Perhaps 20m past the turn off. See a little buttress with a scoop at its base, and a tree to the left.

1.43.2. Punch Bug Area 7 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

Named after the deceased VW Beatle between the boulders. The shortest, easiest, but lowest quality area here.

Approach:

The second area you come to if walking in from the end. Obvious due to the good bunch of boulders just up off the track. If coming up from the reserve, turn right at the track and walk about 70m.

1.43.3. Worker's Club Area 4 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

The heart of life and culture in Revesby. A small area made up of a low cave with a tall buttress at its left end.

Approach:

70m past Punch Bug area, or straight in front of you when you come up from the reserve. You need to walk into the forest a little.

1.43.4. FJ Holden Area 9 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

The best sector here. Named after the infamous 1970’s film shot partly in Revesby. The problems in this area are mostly on the large block 15m off the track. Best decent from the top of the block is by bridging with the main cliff line.

Approach:

About 40m past the Worker's club, see the massive block about 25m off the track.

1.43.5. Hermit's Hovel Area 4 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

Really just a continuation of the cliff line from the FJ Holden area. Left of the big unclimbed cave. Some potential for routes in the caves beneath the Hermit’s Hovel.

Approach:

Just beyond the FJ Holden area.

1.44. Party Palace Cave 11 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.006367, -33.979847

Description:

A small cave overlooking George's River. Rock quality is generally reasonable, with a high headwall. Plenty of possibility for more routes, the developers just aren't good enough to do them!

Approach:

Just a kilometer or two from Revesby Rocks along Henry Lawson Drive, this crag has a slighly longer walk in. Coming from Picnic Point (heading east along Henry Lawson Drive), park on the left side of the road (not heaps of room - perhaps find somewhere else) when you see a brown sign reading 'George's River National Park'. This is just near the top of the hill. Cross the road and go through the gate. Follow the fire trail which turns immediately right, following the road, then pulls away left. Follow this for around 200m before it turns left again. Not much later (!60m?) there's a significant path to the right. Follow this for around 40m and you'll find yourself at a look out of sorts, surrounded by short cliffs. There's a few decent short things here. Drop down this cliff line and head right and down the hill (there's a sort of ramp). Within 30m you'll find the cave. Hard to miss.

History:

Scoped out by Dan Webster then developed one good day with the help of Ryan Myers and Darcey.

1.45. Slab City 0 routes in Area

Unique Features And Strengths:

A undeveloped stretch of hard sandstone slab with easy access.

Description:

A good cliff line broken into two, offering good height (~4m) slabs, on generally excellent rock with good landings. It's all around the 0-2 grade range, and still needs a brush. The first cliff (single bed area) is more technical, while the second cliff (Queen ensemble area) is more ballsy, but straight forward. Choose your own adventure!

Approach:

Park a for Party Palace Cave at the bottom of the hill at the park next to the George's River on Henry Lawson drive between The River rd and Picnic Point Road. Cross the road to the Lagoon side, and walk west. You'll find a little bridge. Across the bridge, a little track starts (well defined). Follow it for about 30 metres and the crag will be obvious on your left.

History:

Another one discovered in 2012, but very undeveloped.

1.46. Soon To Come 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

Another bouldering crag being developed by Brendon Flanagan.

Details will be posted once development is completed.

History:

This crag was offically developed by Brendon Flanagan during the Great Bouldering Boom.

Chalk Up, climb on and live the dream!

1.46.1. The Front Row 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

Details will be posted once development is complete.

History:

This boulder was officially developed by Brendon Flanagan in July 2013 during the Great Bouldering Boom.

Chalk up, climb on and Iive the dream!

1.46.2. Up In The Nose Bleeds 0 routes in Boulder

Description:

Details will be posted once development is completed.

History:

This boulder was officially developed by Brendon Flanagan during the Great Bouldering Boom.

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!