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Showing all 20 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
21 Stuck in the City

The far left arete on subtle sloping pockets. Top-out on blob holds to tree belay - or reverse mantle and lower-off single large bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith, 10 May 2015

Sport 8m, 3
18 * Overkilled

The far left route with giant U-bolts. Easy start then tricky finish - stay left unless you want to get sandbagged.

FA: Ed Rutherford?

Sport 10m, 3
18 * Stopping Short

Slopey grit like wall climbing on giant ugly u-bolts. Lower-off anchors are positioned 1m lower than it should be. Top out for the full tick.

FA: Ed Rutherford?

Sport 10m, 2
15 - 17 Mildly Bent

Another slabby wall with a three FHs. This one is a bit mossy. If you avoid the crack on the right near the end its a few grades harder.

Sport 11m, 3
15/16 Premature Evacuation

Slightly contrived arête with big u-bolts that has lower-off well below the top of the cliff. Mantle out and walk off for the proper tick.

FA: Ed Rutherford?

Sport 8m, 3
15 * The Chimney

Climb the obvious bolted chimney bridging between the two blocks avoiding the big tree on the left. Finish up the left hand block.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

Sport 12m, 3
21 ** Kim

One of the best short aretes in the Shire. The left arête of the wall with heaps of fun technical moves. 3 ring bolts and lower-off.

Sport 10m, 3
18 * Mowgli

The nice slab in the middle of the wall, with three ring bolts to a lower-off

Sport 10m, 3
15 * The Jungle Book

Climbs the right side of the little slab just next to the track. Up small ramp to wall and two U bolts

Sport 9m, 3
24 * Slapperette

Rounded arête just left of Glorious Manglervision with a tree growing annoyingly in the way.. Contrived but funky. Can be done without, but the hold on the right between the 2nd and 3rd bolts makes it much funner.

FA: Mike Law, 2011

Sport 10m, 4
19 * Glorious Manglervision

Left leaning flared crack in behind the trees. Quite tricky layback moves and an awkward finish. A little bold if you only clip bolts. Recently retro-bolted.

FA: Mike Law 1980s

Sport 13m, 3
23 ** Between the Lines

Sustained but contrived. Shallow right facing corner to rooflet. Right to flake on left side of corner - up this to arete then left and over roof. Easy to Mcdougall, but you still need to do the 23 move at the end.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2010

Sport 16m, 6
20 ** Bruised and Scratched

A fun bolted wide crack that involves no thrutching. Bomber hand jam to start which almost immediately widens to an off-width corner. Tricky finish through the roof to finish. Retro-bolted.

FA: Mike Law 1980s

Sport 15m, 5
24 *** Lean Beef

Some of the best rock in Sydney. 6 rings crossing wall from right to left - then big move up final wall to double RB Lower off. Very reachy - or dynoy. There is a large loose block at the last bolt - take care. Bolted from mixed trad to sport by CT

FA: Mike Law 1990s

Sport 15m, 6
27 ** Heavy Haulage

One of the hardest routes in the Shire and appears to have thwarted every attempt at a repeat. Start as for LB, continue on a direct line to the top (if you can). There has been two variant methods that have been done - (26) FA CT ignore third bolt and climb left to good jug on Lean Beef Now DYNO up and right to join back into line. There is also a (25) option. Climb to third RB, then traverse right to arete (left side of Offalwdith). Up a few moves then traverse back left (reachy) into line. Top out finish no anchors . Bolted from mixed trad by LW.

FA: Giles Bradbury & Mike Law 1990s

Sport 15m, 6
23 * A1

Contrived but quality. Just to the right of big offwidth. Powerfull line of crimpy goodness on ringbolts and one FH. Stay out the crack for the real tick. Lower-off anchor right on top of cliff.

Sport 15m, 5
22 * Aarvark

Contrived face just to the right A1 and left of scoopy cave. Big ugly U Bolts that finishes prematurely well below the top of the cliff. 'Contrived' if you avoid the jugs to the right. That start is protected by a FH.

FA: Ed Rutherford?

Sport 15m, 3
17 * Burning Shells

Did you know that the first European settlers burnt most of Sydney's Aboriginal oyster shell middens to make cement? Start just right of Aardvark and climbs juggy steep scoop feature. Finish right up to the top of the cliff to lower-off anchor. All ringbolts.

The rock inside the steep scoop is fragile and can break. Be cautious.

Sport 14m, 5
16 Climb at Own Risk

Worst route at the crag. Chossy, very rusty bolts and a tree grows in the way. Climb overhanging juggy scoops traversing left under roof, then up rounded arete. FHs to double BB.

FA: Ian Bruce, 2003

Sport 12m
17 * Lumberjack

Good warm-up. Right most bolted route starting in a small cave off a rock ledge. 4 u-bolts and single giant u-bolt lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2010

Sport 15m, 4

Showing all 20 routes.