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Description:

Nice full length sport route that is slightly spoiled by the midway ledge. Start below shallow corner in front of block with FH. Up the corner to sloping break, traverse right 2m then up with a powerful move to door-handle jug (sling it). Mantle onto ledge, then left a metre and up steep juggy grey wall to hard slab move to gain base of huge roof. Monkey across roof for 2m to chain-anchor on lip (hard to clip, toe jam the break!). All bolts, including the FHs are glue-ins and bomber. The route originally bailed left at the third bolt, and was extended by Neil in 2014.

Ethic: inherited from Lucas Heights

Everything of worth at this crag is sport-bolted.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Chris Wallace, 1994

  • First Free Ascent: Neil Monteith (10m extension), 2014

Location:  

Located in Lucas Heights approx:
Long/Lat: 151.001984,-34.040747

Route Grade Citations

23 Community registered grade
22(S) Sun, Surf and Sandstone - A Rockclimber's Guide to Sydney
22 * * ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

great cool rad steep crazy roof

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