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Description

About 4 minutes walk upstream from the carpark on the right hand side.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
Thin crack direct Boulder 4m
2
V1 Thin crack Boulder 5m

A three move wonder, will probably need a brush. Finish on the big jug shared with "The Curse of the Black Pinch".

3
V1 Horny Boulder 4m

Start on the horn, traverse through 2 finger pocket and up right into Fat Crack.

4

Low start, varied moves then delicate balancy move to pinch the black horizontal hold.

5
V1 * Fat crack Boulder 3m

A couple low start variants, then up to big jug and mantle.

6
V5 ** KFC Traverse Boulder 5m

Start on arete jug, traverse left through 6 progressively thinner crimps and up to jug on 'Fat Crack'. Keep your feet above the line of black rock.

7
V2 Arete Boulder 4m

Start under roof, through good jug to high side pull and jump off when you hit the grass.

8
* Arete direct Boulder 4m

Hard start variant

9
V3 Cavelet Boulder 6m

Start on side pull, reach into rail on roof then traverse left and up and finish up the arete.

10
Mono project Boulder 3m

Start under the cave, directly up through slopers and mono pocket. Needs more cleaning

11
V2 * Slopers Boulder 4m

Start under roof on side pull, the traverse right on slopers. Slightly harder right to left.

12
V3 The crack Boulder 4m

Either sit start or link in from the Traverse, harder than it looks.

13
V1 Traverse Boulder 5m

Great jugs, chalky feet

14
V4 * Long traverse Boulder 10m

Start with the easy jug traverse then link through the slopers, the cavelet, up the arete, then left to the safety of the Fat Crack.

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