Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 17th Mar 2024 - Mt Lyell | |||||||
Main Area Bonanza | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Killer Lion - with Moses | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Another two days spent working this problem. Optimistic for next session!
|
|||||||
Sat 16th Mar 2024 - Mt Lyell | |||||||
For A Few Dollars More Area For A Few Dollars More | |||||||
V7 Hard | ★★ A Fist Full Of Flies — 4 attempts - with James Ridgers | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Fell on the last hard move 😢. Good progress though!
|
|||||||
Fri 8th Mar 2024 - Frenchmans Cap Area | |||||||
Frenchmans Cap South-East Face | |||||||
16 | ★★ The Sydney Route - with Henry Burt | 380m | Don't Bother | ||||
Amazing scenery and quite unique to be on a wall this size in Australia. The devils staircase pitch is nice. The rest of the route is hands down the worst summer multi-pitch climbing I´ve ever done.
|
|||||||
Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Mt Lyell | |||||||
Main Area Bonanza | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Killer Lion - with jackaa, Moses | ★★★ Classic | |||||
awesome line. can't wait to get back!
|
|||||||
Sat 24th Feb 2024 - Mt Lyell | |||||||
Main Area West World | |||||||
V4 Hard | ★★★ Late to the Muster — 4 attempts | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Couldn't commit to the scary top out, on my best shot.
|
|||||||
V6 | ★★ Dolores — 5 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Nice hard crimping!
|
|||||||
Sat 24th Feb 2024 - Mt Lyell | |||||||
Main Area Bonanza | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Killer Lion - with Moses, James Ridgers | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Awesome! Climbed it in 2 sections
|
|||||||
Wed 21st Feb 2024 - Adamsfield | |||||||
The High Wire | |||||||
29 | ★★★ Magic Potion | 15m, 5 | |||||
This and the boulder felt nails. Maybe not my style or its just hard ahah
|
|||||||
Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Frenchmans Cap Area | |||||||
Frenchmans Cap South-East Face | |||||||
17 | ★★★ The Chimes of Freedom - with Josh Ring | 270m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A route that has lead me to reflect on my climbing deeply.
The seriousness of this route had my full attention as we were climbing, so much so that I wasn't able to experience much else. Not excitement, joy, fear or otherwise. I was focused on being as safe as possible and succeeding. Both those goals were achieved, but a certain emptiness remains. Much more self reflection to come; on climbing and - as usual - how that relates to life. The morning walk to the start of the route was serendipitous, as sunrise silently rose over a sea of mountain peak islands bathed in the rising alpine fog. 3 day mish. 27km first day. Route the second. 27km out third. Would recommend taking more time to enjoy your time here. It's a lovely place. |
|||||||
Mon 12th Feb 2024 - Frenchmans Cap Area | |||||||
Frenchmans Cap Tahune Face | |||||||
16 | ★★ Tierry le Fronde - with Lee Prescott | 150m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
So so nice, good crack moves, walked back to vera hut after this day
|
|||||||
Mon 12th Feb 2024 - Mt Lyell | |||||||
For A Few Dollars More Area For A Few Dollars More | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ For A Few Dollars More - with Moses | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Took a couple sessions to proj, went cleanly first go next morning, first V6!
|
|||||||
Sat 10th Feb 2024 - Frenchmans Cap Area | |||||||
Frenchmans Cap East Face | |||||||
20 |
★★★ The Lorax
- with
Lee Prescott, gerrard
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
| 390m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Goddamn what a route, most exposed position I've ever been in and biggest and most beautiful wall I've seen, so fucking sick. Have so much appreciation for everything now. Was wigging at that exposure, was tired, cooked finger etc. it's just about getting to the top of the cliff. Lowered off crux and lee went up, ledge traverse was nuts exposed!! Sick route, 15.5 hours on the wall with party of 3 and a bit of fucking around. Full write up in tahune hut logbook
|
|||||||
20 | ★★★ The Lorax - with Dylan Glavas | 390m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A serious undertaking! Spent 15 hrs on the wall total as a party of three, only the last pitch in the dark thankfully. Roped up first pitch 'scramble' was wet and sketchy, the crux pitch felt a bit harder than 20 and the traverse was my favourite part- the only actual 3 star part of the climb. Gets three for the location and length though. Was in my head about the last two sparsely protected pitches, but after getting to them the gear was better than anticipated with modern RP's and microcams. Still have to pull a few hard moves above minimal gear, but the challenge is route finding. An epic day out with two good friends, lots of traumatic bonding and appreciating life through the taste of death.
|
|||||||
Sat 10th Feb 2024 - Federation Peak | |||||||
South Western Cliffs | |||||||
5 | ★★★ The Normal Route | 100m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fucking awesome.
|
|||||||
Mon 22nd Jan 2024 - Mt Lyell | |||||||
For A Few Dollars More Area For A Few Dollars More | |||||||
V4/5 | ★★ For A Few Dollars Less | ||||||
Desperate, made about 3 mistakes on the final go but luckily i held on!
|
|||||||
V3 | ★ El Indio | ||||||
Happy i got this one...wish i used my final beta first and i may have flashed it.
|
|||||||
Sat 20th Jan 2024 - Mt Lyell | |||||||
The Good, The Bad and The Ugly Area The Good, The Bad And The Ugly | |||||||
V2 | Tuco | ||||||
Dirty
|
|||||||
Thu 18th Jan 2024 - Federation Peak | |||||||
Bechervaise Plateau Face | |||||||
14 ~16 | ★★ North-East Corner - with Emdehn | 140m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great fun. Linked the first two pitches. Good gear when it’s there. Some moves felt 18. Guide book descriptions seemed unclear but it’s easy to follow a corner/good placements on the face. Unsure of why I can’t choose onsight on the crag selections. Great arvo out and less sketchy than the summit track down 😅. After reaching the top scramble back and left to find the walking track. Would recommend.
|
|||||||
Thu 11th Jan 2024 - Adamsfield | |||||||
The High Wire | |||||||
29 | ★★★ Magic Potion - with Cormac Brannigan | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Radness
|
|||||||
Mon 8th Jan 2024 - Sentinel Range | |||||||
Moonlight Buttress Area | |||||||
12 ~14 | ★★ Moonlight Buttress - with Isaac Truman | 310m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
first two pitches are mega classic, few r outs can be protected with a healthy set of cams (which we didn't have)
|
|||||||
Sun 7th Jan 2024 - Mt Lyell | |||||||
Main Area Ennio Morricone | |||||||
V5 - 8 ~V7 | ★★★ Ennio Extension - with jackaa, James Ridgers | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Still hard.
|
|||||||
Sun 7th Jan 2024 - Mt Lyell | |||||||
The Valley High Noon | |||||||
V3 - 6 | High Noon Project - with jackaa, Moses | ||||||
will be a nice line!
|
|||||||
Sun 7th Jan 2024 - Mt Lyell | |||||||
The Valley Bone Tomahawk | |||||||
VB+ ~V0- | ★ Cannibalistic - with jackaa, Moses | ★ Good | |||||
climbed nicely
|
|||||||
Sun 7th Jan 2024 - Mt Lyell | |||||||
Main Area Ennio Morricone | |||||||
V3 | ★★★ Ennio - with jackaa, Moses | ★★ Very Good | |||||
nice flowy moves
|
|||||||
Sun 7th Jan 2024 - Mt Lyell | |||||||
For A Few Dollars More Area For A Few Dollars More | |||||||
V3 Easy | ★ El Indio - with jackaa, Moses | ★ Good | |||||
warm up repeat
|
|||||||
V6 | ★★★ For A Few Dollars More - with jackaa, Moses | ★★★ Classic | |||||
lots of fun. got all the moves individually, just got to put it all together
|
|||||||
V6 | ★★★ For A Few Dollars More — 3 attempts - with James Ridgers, Moses | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Arrived at the last moves 3 times and pumped out
|
|||||||
Sat 6th Jan 2024 - Mt Lyell | |||||||
The Valley Bone Tomahawk | |||||||
V5 Hard | ★★★ Bone Tomahawk — 3 attempts - with jackaa, James Ridgers | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Might be a sandbag...
|
|||||||
Sat 6th Jan 2024 - Sentinel Range | |||||||
Moonlight Buttress Area | |||||||
12 ~14 | ★★ Moonlight Buttress - with Jai | 310m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really great adventure. Rock and climbing was better than I expected. Baked in the sun most of the day. Make sure to take plenty of water. Took double rack from black Totem to #1, extra #0.3, single #2 & #3, hex's, nuts and found this to be almost perfect. Plenty of slings. Maybe just the way I did it, but the bit off the first big ledge felt pretty spicy for a 14.
|
|||||||
Wed 29th Nov 2023 - Mt Lyell | |||||||
The Good, The Bad and The Ugly Area The Good, The Bad And The Ugly | |||||||
V2 | Tuco | ||||||
Great warm up on awesome crimps.
|
|||||||
V5 | ★★ Blondie | ||||||
Cool problem that took me a while to figure out the beta. I don't know if it was out of fear or just plain hard moves but I was so pumped at the top and just had to throw for little bumps hoping they were good.
|
|||||||
Sun 26th Feb 2023 - Frenchmans Cap Area | |||||||
Frenchmans Cap East Face | |||||||
19 | ★★ The Ninth of January | 160m | |||||
Squeezing this in the day after Sydney probably added another year onto when I’d return, Three stars.
|
|||||||
Sun 26th Feb 2023 - Frenchmans Cap Area | |||||||
Frenchmans Cap South-East Face | |||||||
16 | ★★ The Sydney Route | 380m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Such a rich experience to climb at Frenchman’s, not all positive, not all negative but all memorable. Managed to catch a beautiful 5 day weather window and all our routes were bone dry. I got the pointy end of the rope on the Devils staircase which Is more than a bit stiff at 16. Also finding the start was a whole ordeal and I assume I was somewhere near the original. I went up the main gully, sus traverse on vegetation to a grassy ledge then up a “botanically influenced” crack for a full rope length until I spied the chimney on P3. Second tick off the lifelist in a week.
|
|||||||
Wed 15th Feb 2023 - Sentinel Range | |||||||
Moonlight Buttress Area | |||||||
12 ~13 | ★★ Moonlight Buttress | 310m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Amazing. Climbing up glorious slabs with a view to all of the southwest. Innumerable spires and peaks all around a great pillar of somewhat loose rock that hides great climbing. Considerable amount of very easy terrain that was soloed between 3 distinct headwalls. Not as overall good as Rysavy but better climbing. About 14 if avoiding extreme steep bushwalking. 4 or so hours to the top. gear ok, beware loose and hollow blocks.
|
|||||||
Tue 31st Jan 2023 - Mt Lyell | |||||||
The Saddle The MoonBoard | |||||||
V7 | ★★★ A Glitch In the Matrix — 5 attempts | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Took a total of 6 days effort from finding it too sending.
|
|||||||
Tue 31st Jan 2023 - Adamsfield | |||||||
Bear Pit | |||||||
24 ~23 | ★ Get a Grip | 10m, 4 | |||||
Pretty sus bolting. Would deck on the block behind if dropped from the top. The lower perma is a red herring
|
|||||||
Tue 31st Jan 2023 - Adamsfield | |||||||
Rock With A View | |||||||
20 | Lady Of The Lake | ||||||
20X, pretty dangerous
|
|||||||
Mon 30th Jan 2023 - Mt Lyell | |||||||
Main Area Ennio Morricone | |||||||
V3 | ★★★ Ennio — 2 attempts | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Such a great line.
|
|||||||
Sun 22nd Jan 2023 - Adamsfield | |||||||
The High Wire | |||||||
V10 | ★★ Sub Zero Extension - with Ryan Sklenica | 8m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Awesome power endurance boulder.
|
|||||||
Sat 14th Jan 2023 - Frenchmans Cap Area | |||||||
Frenchmans Cap South-East Face | |||||||
16 |
★★ The Sydney Route
- with
Emdehn
1
36
2
36
3
18
4
36
5
24
6
30
7
30
8
30
9
16
21
10
33
11
30
12
30
13
30
| 380m | ★ Good | ||||
Hard to find and hard to stay on. Followed up some mates. Big big day with a wet pitch 8. Sandbagged route (especially pitch 8 and 9). Swimming in the lake at midnight after getting back to the hut is the real beta. Would recommend if you like choss and can solidly lead grade 20 trad 😜
|
|||||||
Thu 12th Jan 2023 - Frenchmans Cap Area | |||||||
Frenchmans Cap South-East Face | |||||||
16 | ★★ The Sydney Route - with Trent | 380m | |||||
Such a memorable day out climbing. Wowee! Got lucky with great weather and a bluebird day. 17 hours hut to hut. Found the crux pretty darn hard for a 16! Some pitches were still wet despite days of no rain. Lots of moss and choss on some pitches, but otherwise amazing day out.
|
|||||||
Sun 8th Jan 2023 - Federation Peak | |||||||
South Western Cliffs | |||||||
5 | ★★★ The Normal Route - with SwagAustralia, Claire Evans | 100m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Not as dodgy as people suggest, just exposed. Would be dangerous when wet. The Southern Traverse seems much more dangerous with loose rock. Max dislocated his shoulder on day one and had to be helicoptered out so missed out on the summit, but the rescue guys kindly took him on a flyby
|
|||||||
Sat 7th Jan 2023 - Frenchmans Cap Area | |||||||
Frenchmans Cap South-East Face | |||||||
16 ~18 | ★★ The Sydney Route - with Tom Scott | 380m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wow what a day. Was off route pretty considerably for the first 4 pitches, but then pretty sweet once on route. The pitches leading up to the crux were awesome and full value. Lots of moss, dirt, plants, loose rock/boulders and the like. Crux pitch is for sure harder than 16. An inverted staircase, 300m off the deck, that has some decent protection and rest stances, but is definitely harder than 16... All in all, an awesome, full value day!
|
|||||||
Fri 6th Jan 2023 - Frenchmans Cap Area | |||||||
Frenchmans Cap Tahune Face | |||||||
16 | ★★ Tierry le Fronde | 150m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Planned bail-out after the 2nd pitch as we were spooked off by the walls intimidation factor. Felt pretty solid up to there and probably would have pushed through if we had started the route earlier in the day or brought head torches along.
Definitely putting this one on my list to get back and send.
|
|||||||
Fri 6th Jan 2023 - Frenchmans Cap Area | |||||||
Frenchmans Cap South-East Face | |||||||
16 | ★★ The Sydney Route - with Harley Mills | 380m | |||||
What a day, completely off course at the start but just kept questing up and right until we rejoined.
Another serious climb, but an amazing one. Harley did an amazing job leading the crux (no way its 16). The whole experience was amazing Probably no rain on the mount for 12 days before we went up (and temps hovering in the high 20s), but the top of the route was still pretty wet. Would really want to pick your windows for this. Pitch 8 was super run out and wet holds really added to the spice |
|||||||
Fri 6th Jan 2023 - Frenchmans Cap Area | |||||||
Frenchmans Cap East Face | |||||||
19 | ★★ The Ninth of January - with Harley Mills | 160m | |||||
Oh boy. Glad we did this route before attempting lorax. Really put the seriousness of the wall into perspective.
Massive runouts, some questionable rock and gear. Glad Harley was leading the crux pitch. Super route, the traverson on P2 was crazy |
|||||||
Thu 5th Jan 2023 - Mt Lyell | |||||||
The Saddle The MoonBoard | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Let's Be Friends | ★★ Very Good | |||||
FA
|
|||||||
Thu 5th Jan 2023 - Frenchmans Cap Area | |||||||
Frenchmans Cap East Face | |||||||
19 Hard | ★★ The Ninth of January - with Tom Scott | 160m | ★ Good | ||||
Good climbing, very questionable rock at times particularly on pitch 1. The crux is unprotectable and run out, and is some of the scariest trad I've done... proceed with caution. Pitches 3 and 4 were cruisy and nice despite pulling some holds off! The tat for the rap off the top is old and questionable, probably worth replacing.
|
|||||||
Wed 4th Jan 2023 - Trial Harbour | |||||||
Goldrush | |||||||
20 | ★ Barry Tudor | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
Awkward top
|
|||||||
Fri 30th Dec 2022 - Frenchmans Cap Area | |||||||
Philps Peak | |||||||
10 | ★★ The Gendarme Ridge | ||||||
First try of alpine climbing! What an epic/challenging day! Brittle rock, lots of soloing, but so grateful to have done it. 7hours to get 3/4 of the way along, 3 to get back to Barron pass via a 70m rapp of the needle
|
|||||||
Fri 23rd Dec 2022 - Conical Rocks | |||||||
19 | ★★ the Best | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The vertical crack is pretty cruxy, would be 3 stars if it was 3x longer
|
|||||||
Thu 22nd Dec 2022 - Conical Rocks | |||||||
1 | ★★★ Wilderness | ||||||
Fun little scramble
|
|||||||
19 | ★★★ Atmosphere | 2 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really cool
|
|||||||
20 | ★★ My Own Private Idaho | ||||||
Slab aint for me
|
|||||||
19 | ★★ Novelty | ★ Good | |||||
Exciting slab moves
|
|||||||
Tue 20th Dec 2022 - Mt Lyell | |||||||
A Fist Full Of Dollars Area The Hideout | |||||||
V6 | ★★ Hideout SDS | 5m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6/7 not sure. quite flowy with the sit !
|
|||||||
Tue 20th Dec 2022 - Mt Lyell | |||||||
A Fist Full Of Dollars Area Where The Hell's That Gold | |||||||
V6 | ★★ Sulphur-crested Pebble Muncher | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
pretty fun.
|
|||||||
Tue 20th Dec 2022 - Mt Lyell | |||||||
The Valley Bone Tomahawk | |||||||
V7 Hard | ★★ Tomahoof | 5m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
probably my favourite problem out here. the beta for me ending up being a wild drive by. might be other ways.
not sure what grade it is ahah
|
|||||||
Sun 17th Apr 2022 - Federation Peak | |||||||
South Western Cliffs | |||||||
5 | ★★★ The Normal Route | 100m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Awesome adventure. It was a long way down.
|
|||||||
Sat 9th Apr 2022 - Federation Peak | |||||||
South Western Cliffs | |||||||
5 | ★★★ The Normal Route - with Alex Mantaut | 100m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pretty rad walk! Definitely would've been nice to be able to rap down.
|
|||||||
5 | ★★★ The Normal Route - with Jay | 100m | |||||
Pretty exposed at times, we didn't take a rope for it, and were suffering a bit on the way down
|
|||||||
Fri 25th Mar 2022 - Federation Peak | |||||||
South Western Cliffs | |||||||
5 | ★★★ The Normal Route - with Imogen | 100m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Easily up there as one of the most terrifying hiking routes I have done. Blessed with perfect weather and views for days.
|
|||||||
Mon 7th Mar 2022 - Federation Peak | |||||||
Bechervaise Plateau Face | |||||||
14 | ★★ North-East Corner - with Steve Postle | 140m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great rock great location, possibly the most direct path to the summit, straight off the walkers track, more of a make your own adventure we mainly stayed on the slabs, plentiful holds, spaced but good gear, probably around 16 the path that we took, linked pitches 1 and 2, 3 and 4 and finished up the variation to the left for 5 and 6 a good route/consolation prize if weather is iffy as it was for us.
|
|||||||
Mon 28th Feb 2022 - Mt Lyell | |||||||
Main Area Ennio Morricone | |||||||
V5 V5 - 8 | ★★★ Ennio Extension | ||||||
Might have the starting moves sorted.
|
|||||||
Fri 25th Feb 2022 - Frenchmans Cap Area | |||||||
Frenchmans Cap East Face | |||||||
20 | ★★★ The Lorax | 390m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
What a day! What a route!
Lead free: 4, 5 and 7 |
|||||||
Wed 23rd Feb 2022 - Frenchmans Cap Area | |||||||
Frenchmans Cap South-East Face | |||||||
17 | ★★★ The Chimes of Freedom | 270m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Lead free:2, 4, 7
Spectacular but heaps of wet rock (first and second pitch, finish of pitch 5, the corner crack of p 6)
Was raining the previous day
|
|||||||
Wed 16th Feb 2022 - Frenchmans Cap Area | |||||||
Frenchmans Cap South-East Face | |||||||
17 | ★★★ The Chimes of Freedom | 270m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Incredible, this route has been on the life list for a very long time. A striking corner crack followed by an unprotected and butt puckering exposed traverse across the void to another corner system. Definitely the most serious but rewarding pieces of climbing I've had the pleasure of doing!. Wild
|
|||||||
16 | ★★ The Sydney Route | 380m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
An epic alpine adventure complete with huge exposure, plenty of loose rock and less than desirable belays. Fantastic!
|
|||||||
Tue 8th Feb 2022 - Adamsfield | |||||||
Pyramid Rock | |||||||
20 | ★ Steel and Stone | 10m | Average | ||||
Thought I'd deck if I didn't manage to clip the anchor...
|
|||||||
Sat 29th Jan 2022 - Mt Lyell | |||||||
For A Few Dollars More Area For A Few Dollars More | |||||||
V7 | FA ★★ A Fist Full Of Flies | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Proper power endurance piece! Would love to come back and work the mega-linkup ('The Wheel of Flies' anyone?)
*Once again, i'm not a boulderer so V7 is just a suggestion |
|||||||
Thu 27th Jan 2022 - Mt Lyell | |||||||
For A Few Dollars More Area For A Few Dollars More | |||||||
V2 V3 | ★ El Indio | ★ Good | |||||
Nice warm up problem.
|
|||||||
V6 | ★★★ For A Few Dollars More | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Love this style
|
|||||||
V4 | FA ★★ Crimp Eastwood | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Mitch Scanlan-Bloor and I aren't boulderers so V4 is just a suggestion, hope you enjoy! Maybe one day someone will send the crack variant 'Crimp Fistwood'!
|
|||||||
V6 | ★★★ Hasta Luego, Amigo! | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Cool moves!
|
|||||||
Wed 26th Jan 2022 - Federation Peak | |||||||
Bechervaise Plateau Face | |||||||
12 | The Climbing Gully - with Michael Lehmann | 36m | |||||
first ever climb on Fed, was a bit wet in a section but ok. set a fixed line for the rest of the crew to get up with bags full of gear.
|
|||||||
12 | The Climbing Gully | 36m | |||||
climbed more on the actual face but still very easy.
|
|||||||
Wed 26th Jan 2022 - Federation Peak | |||||||
North Face | |||||||
21 | FA ★★ Expiry Date - with Michael Lehmann | 180m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
awesome stuff to get on a main feature of the whole face. michael did the 1st slab, cruxy and spicy traverse into arete and I filled in the rest. I unfortunately couldn't hold a move at the end of the traverse when going out onto the SUPER exposed arete, but got up it after the rest.
|
|||||||
Wed 26th Jan 2022 - Federation Peak | |||||||
South Western Cliffs | |||||||
15 | FA ★ Shit Ya Hands - with Michael Lehmann | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
was on second once michael lead, stoked for FA
|
|||||||
Tue 25th Jan 2022 - Federation Peak | |||||||
North Face | |||||||
21 | FA ★★ Expiry Date - with Harrie Van de Linde | 180m | ★ Good | ||||
FFA. Can't believe we actually got up it! Was doing movement much harder than the grade route finding gear and holds on the steep pitch. Sandbagged myself climbing upwards into grade 23 territory with no gear or holds at the final traverse. Had to down climb and make a very tenuous hanging belay. Words can't describe how much exposure there is on the arete! The smeary feet and progressively thinner, pumpier under clings add to the atmosphere! The easy climbing after has 3 star exposure but is pretty run out. Would give the route more stars but don't want to draw traffic. Rock quality was bloody good overall, Some of the holds and gear in the flakes where uncertain. A fall at any point on the climb could have high consequences.
|
|||||||
Tue 25th Jan 2022 - Federation Peak | |||||||
North-West Face and Blade Ridge | |||||||
23 | FA ★★★ Alpine High | 30m | |||||
FFA. Probably the best route I've climbed as an fa, stellar line, brilliant movement and bomber gear. What more could you ask for! Sequences seemed quite hard initially, Wasn't sure if it would go so pre-placed gear on lead and it was easier than I thought. Still a pumpy number, would be a hard one to onsight ground up.
|
|||||||
Tue 25th Jan 2022 - Federation Peak | |||||||
South Western Cliffs | |||||||
15 | FA ★ Shit Ya Hands - with Harrie Van de Linde | 20m | |||||
FFA. Accessing the highline rig, fun route! Just enough pro and some dubious rock made the line quite engaging.
|
|||||||
Tue 25th Jan 2022 - Federation Peak | |||||||
Bechervaise Plateau Face | |||||||
12 | The Climbing Gully | 36m | |||||
Down climb from summit to get water.
|
|||||||
12 | The Climbing Gully | 36m | |||||
Climbing back up with a rope and rack to work alpine high.
|
|||||||
Sat 22nd Jan 2022 - Federation Peak | |||||||
North-West Face and Blade Ridge | |||||||
17 | ★★ The North West Face - with Timmy Wong | 330m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
yeah its a pretty nice climb to be on that side of the cliff. shame i couldn't do the direct through the crack system, but a critical block fell off (a week ago)? and the traverse was a bit too spicy.
|
|||||||
Fri 21st Jan 2022 - Federation Peak | |||||||
North-West Face and Blade Ridge | |||||||
17 | ★★ The North West Face - with Harrie Van de Linde | 330m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Did in 7 pitches, probably tad off route for the first half but the better climbing is in the second half anyway. Seconded the traverse pitch and led the chimney.
|
|||||||
Wed 19th Jan 2022 - Federation Peak | |||||||
North-West Face and Blade Ridge | |||||||
17 | ★★ The North West Face - with shane | 330m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Slinging bush's is basically sport climbing. Chimney pitch was pretty radical! Couldn't ask for better weather. Three days in total.
|
|||||||
Sun 16th Jan 2022 - Federation Peak | |||||||
North-West Face and Blade Ridge | |||||||
17 | ★★ Blade Ridge | 420m | |||||
Poor objective climbing on poor rock, though the INCREDIBLE exposure and position more than make up for this! The most unique route I've been on, and a highly valuable experience!
Lucked out with 5 days of no rain out there, though we awoke at 4:30am on Day 3 (our climbing day) to thick mist which made it harder to find the proper blade, ending up starting up the cliff just past the blade. After scrambling up 120m+ of scrub we realised this, abseiled back down into the gully off the R side of Blade Ridge, and fortunately found a way to mount the ridge from here. At first climbing I was a bit out of sorts, not having done much of this style climbing for a long time, but after a few pitches I was back and firing to go. Battling drag is key on this for speed - the answer to this is usually running it out with the many aretes and corners to navigate. Man the ridge climbing is incredible! We reached the top of Blade Ridge at 6pm, and made the decision to not continue up the NW Face through the night and figure out the descent at night. Rapped and traversed into the left gully and climbed out back to camp. Not without loose rock and poor gear, but heavy on exposure and position. Although the NW Face has a greater balance of good climbing movement, good rock, gear, and exposure - in my opinion the pure uniqueness of Blade Ridge trumps this. |
|||||||
17 | ★★ The North West Face | 330m | |||||
After having done the Blade the day previously, Ryan and I were going to walk out. However, it was a blue bird day and the disappointment in not being able to climb the NW Face the day was still fresh in our minds. Mid-packing up at around 9am we decided to drag the trip out and climb the NW Face. Our excitement and satisfaction in the epic climbing of the day before propelled us up the NW Face which does not disappoint. Great position, the remoteness, decent climbing in certain sections, and good rock (apart from the roof traverse) makes this a classic!
What a trip blessed with amazing company, a feeling of being in another world, remoteness, uncannily bluebird weather, and out there climbing. Very thankful. |
|||||||
Sun 16th Jan 2022 - Federation Peak | |||||||
South Western Cliffs | |||||||
5 | ★★★ The Normal Route | 100m | |||||
Downclimbing this was easily the most scared I was the entire trip. That view of the lake below the downclimb is awesome in the true sense of the word, and terrifying. After taking some time to compose myself, it wasn't so bad. Just have to keep moving slow and assuredly. What a crazy hikers route.
|
|||||||
Sat 15th Jan 2022 - Federation Peak | |||||||
South Western Cliffs | |||||||
5 | ★★★ The Normal Route - with Geoff M | 100m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Hiked up, bivvied on the summit and then down the following morning.
Ridiculously improbable route, the exposure is unreal. We were very grateful for clear skies and dry rock - but also felt like we missed out on the true SW experience as a result!
|
|||||||
Sat 15th Jan 2022 - Federation Peak | |||||||
North-West Face and Blade Ridge | |||||||
17 | ★★ The North West Face | 330m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Unreal positioning! Not the greatest climbing (except the chimney pitch which was actually good). Single rack 0.3 - 4 was nice with doubles 1&2. More runners the better with double shoulder lengths being super useful. Rock and gear was pretty decent in most sections bar the traverse under the roof which we found genuinely scary with delicate moves and lots of hollow rock waiting to fall
|
|||||||
18 | ★★ The North West Face Direct | 320m | |||||
Made it to below the roof pretty happily, decent (relatively) gear and rock (and bushes) up to there. Started traverse out to the crack for the direct route. Wall seemed very blank excepting one big block which looked solid enough. Tapped the block to reveal it was terrible. Struggling to find any other features to hold I lightly pulled on the block. Moving block the size of my body with such little force sent shivers down my spine and the block all the way to the ground. The traverse now seeming very challenging and heart rates up a bit higher than preferred we decided to retreat and complete the original route. The traverse for the original route also had a lot of terrible rock and required very delicate movement. Also note 'Simon and Joe Go gardening' shares the same crux pitch as the direct route. Worth reading that description as it seems a lot more accurate
|
|||||||
Thu 13th Jan 2022 - Adamsfield | |||||||
The Trapeze | |||||||
24 | ★★ Circus Oz - with Stephanie Levesque | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Anchors looking like shit, downclimb and back jump to clean.
|
|||||||
Tue 11th Jan 2022 - Adamsfield | |||||||
The High Wire | |||||||
26 25 | ★★ The Great Houdini - with Stephanie Levesque | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Unique angle and amazing moves with pumpy 3 draw extension (2).
|
|||||||
Sun 9th Jan 2022 - Adamsfield | |||||||
Bear Pit | |||||||
26 | ★★ The Mike Tyson vs Macauley Culkin Fight | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
repeat
|
|||||||
24 | ★ Get a Grip | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
repeat
|
|||||||
Sun 9th Jan 2022 - Adamsfield | |||||||
The Trapeze | |||||||
27 | ★★★ Forearm Flameout - with Ewan Barry | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
an awesome power endurance route.
|
|||||||
Tue 4th Jan 2022 - Mt Lyell | |||||||
Main Area True Grit | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Finish On A High - with Moses, Sarah Pitt | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Great end to 2 days of bouldering
|
|||||||
Tue 4th Jan 2022 - Mt Lyell | |||||||
Main Area Calamity Jane | |||||||
V1 | FA Calamity Traverse | ||||||
Worthwhile traverse
|
|||||||
V0 | Lissoo - with Sarah Pitt, Moses | ||||||
Good warm-up before the full traverse
|