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Description

Drive over the Tasman Bridge to Rosny. Just after you pass the shopping centre you will reach a roundabout. Turn left at this and continue past a couple sets of traffic lights, then turn right onto Quarry Road. Drive to the end of this road and park at the gate of Waverly Park. The boulders are visible up the hill on the left. Walk up the track for a few minutes and then turn left onto another track just before a large stump. This track goes pretty well straight to the boulders and takes about 5 minutes. Follow the line of boulders to the left to the obvious overhanging prow on the first topo. There are a few more easy problems on the aretes and slabs up to the left.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V0 Easy pillar Boulder

Watch the loose chockstone

2
V1 Arete then slab Boulder

Up the arete on pockets and rails.

3
V3 * Arete right Boulder

Sit start with thin pockets and delicate feet, work up the arete along the rails on the lip traversing to the right. Avoid the big rail straight up the arete.

4
V2 Snake eyes Boulder

Stand start with left in mono, right in two finger pocket and good left foot, one move up to jug then mantle.

5
V0 1st V0 Boulder

Highball - At the slabby left hand side of the big prow - Up the slab

6
V3 * V3 Boulder

Highball - Sitstart at right side of overhang, up to slot then straight up the middle of the slab

7
V4 ** 1st V4 Boulder

Highball - Start as for previous, out to chipped jug, then straight up

8
V? Chipped Boulder

Highball - The steepest section of the overhang is very hard on small holds. The landing is pretty bad though, so a top rope may be prudent as the hardest moves are at the top. The Jacksons have managed to do this problem without using the chipped holds as 'a worthy statement against the absolutely crap chipping effort'.

9
V10 Carunga Boulder

Start on the jug on the right side of black cave behind the steep prow. Traverse leftward on small pockets

10
V4 ** Cave exit direct Boulder

More direct exit straight out of cave with big dyno

11
V4 * 2nd V4 Boulder

Just down of the prow is a little cave like boulder feature - Start in the cave on underclings and climb out

12
V4 ** Cave alt finish Boulder

After gaining the lip head straight up

13
V0 2nd V0 Boulder

The vertical wall to the right. The following problems all have lichenous topouts, brush them before climbing. Climb left hand arete

14
V2 1st V2 Boulder

Up face to lichenous mantle

15
V1 1st V1 Boulder

Juggy face to hairy topout

16
V2 2nd V2 Boulder

Pockets on face 1m left of crack

17
V0 3rd V0 Boulder

Crack

18
V1 2nd V1 Boulder

The right hand side of the face - Arete and face

19
V2 3rd V2 Boulder

The right hand side of the face - Start at arete and traverse leftwards to finish up V0 arete on the very left.

20
V1 4th V1 Boulder

The right hand side of the face - Up face and capstone

21
V0 4th V0 Boulder

The right hand side of the face - Up face and capstone

22
V1 5th V1 Boulder

Further down to the right are the first rocks you encounter when accessing the area. The landing is pretty bad.

23
V0 5th V0 Boulder

Further down to the right are the first rocks you encounter when accessing the area. The landing is pretty bad.

24
V1 6th V1 Boulder

Further down to the right are the first rocks you encounter when accessing the area. The landing is pretty bad.