Routes as alpine in Tasmania

A classic ridge traverse.

Park at the Dove Lake carpark (arrive early to avoid shuttle bus). Walk the West side of Dove Lake and take the Lake Wilks Track up to the Face Track. Approximately 200m North (Left) on the Face Track a definite (cairned) pad heads uphill (1.5 hours). Alternatively, walk on the east side of the lake and take the track up to Hanson Peak (a left hand turn just near Glacier Rock). Follow this along the ridge line, summitting Hansons peak and linking into the Face Track, all the way until the cairned path that leads off to the left up to the summit of Little Horn. If you take this approach and come to the sign for the Lake Wilks track you have come too far.

Follow steep path to summit of Little Horn, then begin scramble down towards saddle. 1-2 short (<10m) abseils may be advisable depending on conditions. Walk/Scramble across saddle to base of Weindorfer's Tower and a vegetated ledge.

From here, a narrow pad may be visible on the right (West) side leading to exposed scrambling; consider roping up. The route takes the line of resistance over rocks and vegetation, approximately following the line of the ridge.

After the summit of Weindorfer's Tower there is a 23m abseil from a large boulder; tat may be in place. The start of this abseil can be safely scrambled down in good conditions taking you to a Horn that can be slung for an approx. 10m abseil. The route then continues as before, though generally easier and on the left (East) side of the ridge, with one very exposed rocky traverse on the right (West) side.

The route eases as approaching Smithies Peak, then descends slightly to main summit path which is followed to Cradle Mountain summit. Return via summit walking track.

Gear: 50m rope, abseil tat, 10-12 slings, large nuts/hexes. Helmets recommended, climbing shoes unnecessary.

Time: 9-10 hours car to car.

If the weather turns, there are a couple of points where you can bail out fairly easily. This is after descending Little Horn (there is actually a path leading from the saddle to face track) and after abseiling off Weindorfers tower, this would involve a bit of bushbashing, but doesn't look too steep.

A big day out in rarely climbed terrain on the West Face of the Acropolis. Graded at 19M1 but would go free at 21/22.

The three first ascensionists were benighted and had to spend the night weathering out a storm under a single space blanket and makeshift shelter.

Take your best set of brushes to clean the moss from those lovely cracks, be prepared to kick off the odd bit of choss and unleash the froth as you crank your way up some great climbing.

Approach as for The Plenipotentiary and start at large boulder near the start of The Plenipotentiary. Tat and mallions are required for the descent raps. Pitch lengths are approximate.

• P1: (12) Up vegetated slope, aiming for obvious deep orange crack. (25m)
• P2: (12) Traverse left and up to corner crack on large ledge. (15m)
• P3: (17) Up corner crack to large tooth shape block. (25m)
• P4: (17) Up corners and ramp to top of large chock. (25m)
• P5: (17) Up dirty corner on left to large vegetated ledge. Aim for obvious twin crack system up and left. (15m)
• P6: (19) Up superb twin splitter crack to large vegetated ledge. Can use huge block as anchor. (25m)
• P7: (22) Up thin and technical corner crack to large ledge. Should be at same height of The Plenipotentiary pinnacle. (20m)
• P8: (17) Right and up off width chimney. (10m)
• P9: (10) Exposed traverse into vegetated exit gulley and then protect as you work up the path of least resistance to summit. One slip on the vegetation would send you plummeting several hundred metres to the valley floor. Rope up, take a parachute or be prepared to turn into a red smear if you slip. (50m)

Descent:

• Walk along ridge to the next west facing green gulley.
• Approx 20m rap off chock at top.
• Scramble down until large cliff and locate to large chock on left side of descent gulley. 60m rap.
• Scramble down until end of gulley and locate large wire and torque nut/hex on right side of gulley. 65m rap (doable with rope stretch on two 60m ropes).

From Barron Pass scramble up through scrub to a steep wall with an overhang above it. Continue R of this through a gap and climb short wall on L to gain ridge. Straight up ridge for three rope lengths leads to a knife-edge ridge and summit of White Needle. Alternatively, keeping L of the ridge from Barron Pass, there is a scrub clutching scramble to the top.