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Ten Fathom Ridge

Summary

Quality sandstone.

Description

Esoteric crag offering some great routes. Unfortunately due to the disjointed nature and prickle bushes it can be difficult to get to and find the lines. A number of lines are best accessed from above because of this.

Approach

From the Neds Gully campsite, follow the walking track towards the summit. Path offers good view of the wall on the walk in and if a good place to try and work out the lines. From the saddle to the right of the crag, head across to the top right end of the cliff

Routes

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Grade Route

Crack just L of Cut Loose Possum to L tree.

30m L of Obelix. Under overhang to FH. R along break to lip. Slab to R tree.

Wide roof crack down the far left end

  1. 7m Cracks through roof to belay under a big roof.

  2. 8m Up R awkward onto ramp.

Corner crack 4m right of Obelix to weakness. R along diagonal to belay on the arete.

1st diagonal then arete.

Approached from above via the Stillpoint walk off. Wall to the R. Through bulge. Diagonally R from 2nd FH to overlap at the black streak.R along break under overlap to arete.

Kachoong of the Cathedrals. Scramble down R from the start of Tony Montana to set up a belay under the flake through the roof. Overlaps past FH to flake. Out this past another FH and up headwall above.

Arete just L of Moon Ra.

Corner on the left edge of the main wall starting from the Lunchtime ledge

Takes a high traverse line across the main wall finishing up the last few metres of Two Way Stretchfrom part way up Moon Ra.

Thin line up the L side of the main wall. Wires needed for the start and finish. 4 FH. Beware possibility of flipping upside down at the 2nd FH.

Starts part way along the Moorglade. Up through overlap past FH to PR. Step L then up with difficulty past another FH.

Classic wall. Old Men and Overcoats till the PR. Traverse R to arete rest. Up and L to BR. stetch up.

  1. 18m Traverse R under the main wall to the arete.

  2. 8m Corner

Short corner starting 1m R of The Moorglade 1st belay. Abseil in or down climb corner.

Corner then face just R of Scales. Small wires recommended.

Direct start to Scales starting from the ground. Starts just L of Total Commitment into Scales.

Start below large roof with obvious flake.

  1. 16m To roof, R to pull through roof to ledge.

  2. 14m Step L up through overhang and up.

Arete 2m R of Mint Bush and Overhangs to shallow corner on the R and up.

Starts 20m R of Total Commitment. Break lower left end stepped overhang. BR protects a hard move onto slab. Up and L.

Crack through roof 2m R Mint Bush and Overhangs. Crack above.

Major sloping corner. R along intermittent crack at roof, overhang past jammed blocks

Starts below left end of high roof. Up and L. Straight up past traverse line via crack veering rightwards to arete.

Starts below low roof with 3 cracks just L of Quoquaq. Through roof and up crack above.

Corner 30m L of Green Thumb.

Part way up the corner, R along obvious line to V cleft. Up via this.

Narrow wall base Quoquaq corner. Up to and along 1st diagonal to on the R. Arete above via step L at overhang to stance.Diagonally up L to overlaps middle of the wall. Vague flake at light / black rock to Quoquaq Variant finishing up this.

Below 1st good roof from the saddle. Up to ledge below the roof. To roof, R to crack. Finish up this.

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