North Jawbone Mostly climbing53 routes in area
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North Jawbone (singular!) overlooks the Cathedral Valley on the eastern side of the Cathedral Range. Despite its steep appearance North Jawbone is a reclining slab of about 60 degrees. The climbs are over 100m long on quality chocolate sandstone.
Access: From Melbourne take the Maroondah Highway to Buxton (100km). From Buxton continue along highway for 9km, and then turn right onto Cathedral Lane. Follow the road to the Cathedral State Park. Once inside the State Park, drive to the Cooks Mill camping site and continue on until you arrive at the North Jawbone car park. From the car park take the well marked walking track, down to the creek and on up the ridge on the other side of the valley. About half way up a bunch of slabby buttresses appear on the right (almost reaching the trail) A short distance further, there is a marked boulder on the left and a trail leading right, then follow the track to the base of the cliff.
Out right from below last roof of Spiegals. Five BRs.
FA: Simon ?
FA: Roger Caffin & Sue Wilcox, 1966
Up the centre flake until its top, then delicately traverse left over the slab, pull up and left through the roof (crux), then continue left through more delicate slab moves to the next corner, and up easily from there. Descent involves scrambling UP the steep gulley behind the top of the climb to a trail that leads under Odd Wall (K. Y. Jelly area) and then North and down to the American Dream area. Alternatively, with double ropes it is possible to leave a sling over the pinnacle at the top and rappel the 40m to the ground.
FA: Tim Bearman & Silvia Lazarnick, 1977