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North Jawbone 52 routes in Area

  • Avg. Height: 64m
  • Style: Mostly Trad or Sport
  • Approach time: 45 minutes.
  • Favorites: 2
  • Ascents: 427

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Description:

North Jawbone (singular!) overlooks the Cathedral Valley on the eastern side of the Cathedral Range. Despite its steep appearance North Jawbone is a reclining slab of about 60 degrees. The climbs are over 100m long on quality chocolate sandstone.

Access: From Melbourne take the Maroondah Highway to Buxton (100km). From Buxton continue along highway for 9km, and then turn right onto Cathedral Lane. Follow the road to the Cathedral State Park. Once inside the State Park, drive to the Cooks Mill camping site and continue on until you arrive at the North Jawbone car park. From the car park take the well marked walking track, down to the creek and on up the ridge on the other side of the valley. About half way up a bunch of slabby buttresses appear on the right (almost reaching the trail) A short distance further, there is a marked boulder on the left and a trail leading right, then follow the track to the base of the cliff.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Kit Kat
17
Unknown 12m
2 Bloody Slab
13
Unknown 42m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
3 Here - Catch This
15
Unknown 80m
4 * Jerry - Pot
12
Trad 140m
5 ** Junglescope
13
Unknown 140m
6 * Junglescope Variant
12
Unknown 48m
7 Steve's Delight
5
Unknown 140m
8 The Mice Were Furious
18
Unknown 140m
9 Steve's Delight Variant
7
Unknown 21m
10 Mein Kampf
14
Unknown 140m
11 Mein Kampf Direct
9
Unknown 120m
12 Mein Kampf Direct Finish
14
Unknown 18m
13 Central Buttress
8
Unknown 130m
14 Composite Route
10
Unknown 120m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
15 Route Two
3
Unknown 76m
16 Route One
5
Unknown 100m
17 Knob
12
Unknown 40m
18 * Traverse of the Gods
13
Unknown 15m
19 Traveller's Slab
12
Unknown 39m
20 ** Xanthene
17
Mixed 69m , 4
21 Rockbottom Racer
18
Unknown 35m
22 * Terminal Youth
20
Unknown 30m
23 * Greg's Direct
14
Unknown 48m
24 Xanthene Direct
16
Trad 45m
25 Traverse of the Sods
14
Unknown 42m
26 *** Speigal's Overhang
10
Trad 130m
27 * Simons New Route

Out right from below last roof of Spiegals. Five BRs.

FA: Simon ?,

18
Unknown 25m
28 ** White-line Fever
18
Unknown 89m
29 Spraggit
14
Unknown 42m
30 Spraggit Meets Godzilla
23
Unknown 20m
31 Son Of Spraggit
18
Unknown 90m
32 * Xenith
13
Trad 87m
33 The Retribution
14
Unknown 82m
34 The Retribution Variant
16
Unknown
35 * Northern Ramble
6
Unknown 85m
36 Northern Ramble Variant
4
Unknown 42m
37 Graeme Does His Block
18
Unknown 110m
38 The Verandah
14
Unknown 13m
39 Uncle Sam
18
Unknown 98m
40 Uncle Sam Direct Start
18
Unknown 7m
41 Right Up Uncle Sam
19
Unknown 7m
42 Hickory
13
Unknown 110m
43 Bathtime Gurgles
18
Unknown 40m
44 Fruit Hustler
17
Unknown 45m
45 Babel Fish
17
Unknown 25m
46 Babel Fish Direct Finish
17
Unknown
47 Kiwi Express
15
Unknown 20m
48 American Dream
11
Unknown 26m
49 Low Act
14
Unknown 20m
50 Yanky Screams
14
Unknown 20m
51 K.Y. Jelly
19
Unknown 16m
52 *** Jerry - Pot Direct

This route is described in Rockclimbs Around Melbourne by Glenn Tempest.

Follows the same line as Jerry-Pot for the first 2 pitches, then directly up to the top.

14
Trad 120m