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Description

North Jawbone (singular!) overlooks the Cathedral Valley on the eastern side of the Cathedral Range. Despite its steep appearance North Jawbone is a reclining slab of about 60 degrees. The climbs are over 100m long on quality chocolate sandstone.

Access: From Melbourne take the Maroondah Highway to Buxton (100km). From Buxton continue along highway for 9km, and then turn right onto Cathedral Lane. Follow the road to the Cathedral State Park. Once inside the State Park, drive to the Cooks Mill camping site and continue on until you arrive at the North Jawbone car park. From the car park take the well marked walking track, down to the creek and on up the ridge on the other side of the valley. About half way up a bunch of slabby buttresses appear on the right (almost reaching the trail) A short distance further, there is a marked boulder on the left and a trail leading right, then follow the track to the base of the cliff.

Routes

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Grade Route

This route is described in Rockclimbs Around Melbourne by Glenn Tempest.

A wonderful sustained adventure on perfect brown sandstone. There are various belay possibilities.

  1. 40m (13) As for Jerry-Pot.

  2. 40m (12) As for Jerry-Pot.

  3. 40m (14) Up the thin crack until it runs out. Not far above this is small slot that accepts a 0.5 cam. Step R, then back up L under the overlap and shallow L-facing corner. Up the clean-cut corner and cracks to join the last few metres of Junglescope.

This route is described in Rockclimbs Around Melbourne by Glenn Tempest.

Superb climbing all the way. Three excellent pitches. Start below the distinctive cricket ball impression on the wall 5m R of Junglescope.

  1. 48 m (16) Climb straight up the technical slab past 2 FHs to the comfortable Junglescope ledge.

  2. 50m (14) Climb the R-curving arch (directly above the belay) for a few metres, then straight up the intermittent cracks and seams on the increasingly delicate slab. Belay across L at the base of the corner as for Junglescope.

  3. 32m (17) Climb the slabby grey wall tending up and R to under the middle of the steepening headwall. A few tricky moves over the overlap (FH), then up the final clean wall.

FA: Richard Smith & Jason Scott, 1987

An epic adventure.

  1. 25m (10) Same as 'Speigal's Overhang'. If 'Speigal's Overhang' is busy, try 'Route One'.

  2. 29m (12) Since the crack in the middle is overgrown, this pitch is a bit runout for its grade. Go right at the big crack in the middle until the overhang. Build semi-hanging belay right under it. (The guide recommends to go left into the corner to a ledge, but everything's totally overgrown there; good luck with the spiky bushes!)

  3. 20m (19) Go through overhang left-hand side of the hanging belay. Follow two BRs to the second overhang. Crux with a surprise! Belay on small stance 2m above and a bit to the left of the crux. (The guide suggests a grade 17 here; yes, sure, if you have a wingspan of 2m+…)

  4. 20m (17) Delicate slab climbing, a bit runout. Follow a thin crack a bit to the left to a BR, then straight up and a bit to the right to the 'Traverse of the Gods'. Then several options how to end this climb:

You can link 4th pitch of 'Xanthene' and 'Xanthene Direct' (total linked pitch length of about 65 m).

FA: Doug Hatt & Rodney Coles, 1963

Starts where 'Xanthene' ends.

On the 'Traverse of the Gods', there's a bolt to the left of the route which can be clipped. Otherwise, straight up on slabs with pockets. Small cams in pockets. A lot easier on the 2nd half.

4th pitch of 'Xanthene' can be linked with this route (about 65 m altogether).

Out right from below last roof of Spiegals. Five BRs.

FA: Simon ?

FA: Roger Caffin & Sue Wilcox, 1966

Up the centre flake until its top, then delicately traverse left over the slab, pull up and left through the roof (crux), then continue left through more delicate slab moves to the next corner, and up easily from there. Descent involves scrambling UP the steep gulley behind the top of the climb to a trail that leads under Odd Wall (K. Y. Jelly area) and then North and down to the American Dream area. Alternatively, with double ropes it is possible to leave a sling over the pinnacle at the top and rappel the 40m to the ground.

FA: Tim Bearman & Silvia Lazarnick, 1977

Up the arete 1m right of Fruit Hustler, staying on the arête after you pass the tree, all the way up to where it meets the Fruit Hustler flake.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1986

Up the arête 1m right of Fruit Hustler. From the tree, swing out left and follow the crack on the slab. Claimed to be a better option than the original finish to Babel Fish.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1986

Starts in the corner left of Kiwi Express, then joins up with Low Act.

FA: Simon Todman & Owen Morris, 1989

Very minimal protection available.

Activity

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