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Description

North Jawbone (singular!) overlooks the Cathedral Valley on the eastern side of the Cathedral Range. Despite its steep appearance North Jawbone is a reclining slab of about 60 degrees. The climbs are over 100m long on quality chocolate sandstone.

Access: From Melbourne take the Maroondah Highway to Buxton (100km). From Buxton continue along highway for 9km, and then turn right onto Cathedral Lane. Follow the road to the Cathedral State Park. Once inside the State Park, drive to the Cooks Mill camping site and continue on until you arrive at the North Jawbone car park. From the car park take the well marked walking track, down to the creek and on up the ridge on the other side of the valley. About half way up a bunch of slabby buttresses appear on the right (almost reaching the trail) A short distance further, there is a marked boulder on the left and a trail leading right, then follow the track to the base of the cliff.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
17 Kit Kat Unknown 12m
2
13 Bloody Slab Unknown 42m
3
15 Here - Catch This Unknown 80m
4
12 * Jerry - Pot Trad 140m
5
14 ** Jerry-Pot Direct Trad 120m 3

This route is described in Rockclimbs Around Melbourne by Glenn Tempest.

Follows the same line as Jerry-Pot for the first 2 pitches, then directly up to the top.

6
13 ** Junglescope Mixed 140m, 2
7
12 * Junglescope Variant Unknown 48m
8
5 Steve's Delight Unknown 140m
9
18 ** The Mice Were Furious Mixed 140m, 1
10
11
14 Mein Kampf Unknown 140m
12
9 Mein Kampf Direct Unknown 120m
13
14
8 Central Buttress Unknown 130m
15
10 Composite Route Unknown 120m
16
3 Route Two Unknown 76m
17
5 Route One Unknown 100m
18
12 Knob Unknown 40m
19
13 * Traverse of the Gods Unknown 15m
20
12 Traveller's Slab Unknown 39m
21
17 ** Xanthene Mixed 69m 4, 4
22
18 Rockbottom Racer Unknown 35m
23
20 * Terminal Youth Unknown 30m
24
14 * Greg's Direct Unknown 48m
25
16 Xanthene Direct Trad 45m
26
14 Traverse of the Sods Unknown 42m
27
10 *** Speigal's Overhang Trad 130m 4
28
18 * Simons New Route Unknown 25m

Out right from below last roof of Spiegals. Five BRs.

FA: Simon ?

29
18 ** White-line Fever Unknown 89m
30
14 Spraggit Unknown 42m
31
23 Spraggit Meets Godzilla Unknown 20m
32
18 Son Of Spraggit Unknown 90m
33
13 ** Xenith Trad 87m 2

FA: Roger Caffin & Sue Wilcox, 1966

34
14 The Retribution Unknown 82m
36
6 * Northern Ramble Unknown 85m
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38
18 Graeme Does His Block Unknown 110m
39
14 The Verandah Unknown 13m
40
18 Uncle Sam Unknown 98m
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42
19 Right Up Uncle Sam Unknown 7m
43
13 Hickory Unknown 110m
44
18 Bathtime Gurgles Unknown 40m
45
17 *** Fruit Hustler Trad 40m

Up the centre flake until its top, then delicately traverse left over the slab, pull up and left through the roof (crux), then continue left through more delicate slab moves to the next corner, and up easily from there. Descent involves scrambling UP the steep gulley behind the top of the climb to a trail that leads under Odd Wall (K. Y. Jelly area) and then North and down to the American Dream area. Alternatively, with double ropes it is possible to leave a sling over the pinnacle at the top and rappel the 40m to the ground.

FA: Tim Bearman & Silvia Lazarnick, 1977

46
17 Babel Fish Trad 25m

Up the arete 1m right of Fruit Hustler, staying on the arête after you pass the tree, all the way up to where it meets the Fruit Hustler flake.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1986

47

Up the arête 1m right of Fruit Hustler. From the tree, swing out left and follow the crack on the slab. Claimed to be a better option than the original finish to Babel Fish.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1986

48
14 Snakes Belly Trad 20m

Starts in the corner left of Kiwi Express, then joins up with Low Act.

FA: Simon Todman & Owen Morris, 1989

49
15 Kiwi Express Unknown 20m

Very minimal protection available.

50
11 American Dream Trad 26m
51
14 Low Act Unknown 20m
52
14 Yanky Screams Trad 20m
53
19 K.Y. Jelly Unknown 16m