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Sugarloaf

  • Grades: AU
  • Approach time: 15-20min
  • Photos: 3
  • Ascents: 200

Summary

A lovely area with tons of easy multi pitch routes and nice exposure leading to summit views and an adventurous decent.

Description

The VCC and MUMC have spent many hours out here in the past and developed most of the area. Long, enjoyable easy routes make their ways to the top of the cliff and descend through wells cave on the North-West.

Approach

From the Sugarloaf Saddle follow the trail across the road from the shelter West where you will immediately come to a fork. The Canyon Track leads to Sugarloaf Boulder and easier access to the peak. Wells Cave Track takes you to Fly Paper Wall, Main Face, Cave Slab, and (Obviously) Wells Cave - the decent route.

Where to stay

Camping is available at Cooks Mill, Neds Gully and on the range at the overnight hike‐in site, The Farmyard.  Access to Neds Gully camping area is accessible via a short walk across the swing bridge from Neds Gully Carpark. Cooks Mill has sites suitable for a small number of caravans. Camping fees apply and pre booking is required for Neds Gully and Cooks Mill camping areas. Prior to your visit please book online and check for changes in conditions through www.parks.vic.gov.au or by calling 13 1963.

Ethic

Keep to designated tracks, All plants, animals, other natural features and cultural sites are protected and must not be disturbed or removed.  There is no rubbish collection in the park, please take all your rubbish home with you for recycling and disposal.    Dogs and other pets are not permitted in the park.  Feeding wildlife is bad for their health. It is an offence to feed or leave food where it is accessible to wildlife. Penalties apply.  Please abide by speed limits within the park, drive safely and watch for wildlife.  Loud noise can disturb wildlife. Please respect the local wildlife and your fellow campers and keep noise to a minimum.

Routes

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Grade Route

15m high juggy wall on the walk up to the main face (50m above)

Starts at bottom of Fly Paper Wall and heads all the the way to the top of main wall. 1. 18m Right side of FPW to stance. 2. 40m Follow slab past overhang then down to belay. 3. 35m Begin up main face to arete, then right to belay ledge. 4. 20m Follow arete all the way to another belay ledge perched above an overhang. 5. 10m Up the wall behind you.

On the approach to the main face after flypaper wall, the route is on the back of a pathway slab. Follows a small crack up and out.

Up from Fondaknackers. Left side of track. From undercling head up to roof, then traverse R to finish on boulder.

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Joe Dielenberg, 1986

The big wall that Wells Cave Track passes along before Wells Cave

10m L of Tigris.

  1. 12m Climb the humungo flake to top.

  2. 30m Up R of water trap to ledge.

  3. 33m Up to top

Starts on top of boulder mashed against wall to the left of where the trail meets the main face. 1. (24m) Straight up to big flake. 2. (33m) Continue up till you reach a rightwards weakness and follow to top.

Starts in front of boulder to the right of where the track meets the main face below the point of two ramps. 1. (35m) Straight up till you reach the flake. Follow left till you reach the diagonal ledge. You should be able to see the FH identifying the Baghdad belay further up to your right. 2. (45m) Continue up and Right till you see a L facing flake. Stay to the right of this all the way to the top.

Begins where the track meets the main face. 1. (35m) Up to ledge then follow left groove to spike. 2. (35m) Continue up to R of cave, over, out and up to top.

Starts 13m R of Mesopotamia under where a boulder leans against a flake. 1. (35) Up to the boulder. Pass interesting holes, up over buldge, then left to the diagonal ledge. (1 FH). 2.(45m) Keep going up and L till you merge with Mesopotamia.

Start between Baghdad and Cherrys Flake Direct. Straight up to diagonal features that lead to the DBB.

6m R of boulder against cliff (forming step). 1. 16m (8) Up and left passing BR to get to big flake. Follow flake to DRB and lower off or continue the next pitches. 2. 26m (11) Up and L to follow flakes to stance. 3. 24m (6) Straight up to the top.

Starts below the flake and goes straight up to it. Then L on groove, middle slab (14), or R on flake.

At second pitch traverse 7m L. Then go up and left making sure to stay R of a small overhang. Over overhang go up and R to rejoin main line.

Start as for Cherrys Flake and go straight up to DBB, don't deviate.

Shared start with Cherrys Flake. 1. 25m (5) Up to spike, then step R to gain small ramp which is followed L and up past BR to a DRB belay. 2. 35m (4) All the way up.

FA: Graeme Laver

From the flake in Laver's Route head to the BRs. Go left and up following the weakness and find a belay above the BRs.

FA: Max Anderson & Brian Wells, 1955

Shared start with Cherrys Flake.

  1. 30m (15) To the small spike on Lavers Route. Follow black streak R and past 3 BRs to ledge.

  2. 40m (5) Follow easy weakness to top.

FA: John Ewbank, 1964

Last pitch of Black Streak

FA: Keith Ball

3m L of Webbs Crack. 6m up then left over buldge. Up to ledge.

FA: Greg Lovejoy, 1963

  1. 22m (6) Start below the chimney, up to it till a good ledge.

  2. 28m (8) Follow to top of crack

  3. 20m (5) And up to top of cliff

FA: Eric Webb

7m Left of Plaque at entrance to Wells Cave.

  1. 40m (12) Follow the crack using various techniques and the arete to find yourself in a belay hole.

  2. 22m (9) Up wall to top.

Wanders up and left from the start of Elixer to a ledge and first belay. Then on up and right towards Webb's crack and the second belay. Finish up this route.

FA: Eric Webb & Jim Lane

Start at the left of Well's Cave entrance.

  1. 24m Up and left to the chimney and following overhang before transferring R to secondary chimney.

  2. 18m Up the chimney.

  3. 21m Webb's Crack to finish

The route begins at the base of the slab which forms "Well's Cave" and tops out above the cave chamber. Descent can made by down climbing the northern section of the slab.

FA: Robert Hewitt, 1959

Continue on 100m after Cave slab and you'll get to an easier wall.

  1. 26m Up with passing the overhang and to a stance above.

  2. 27m On to the top

FA: Steve Craddock, 1962

If descending from the top, where the track cuts back and heads towards Well's Cave, continue left instead and follow down towards the slab.

Follow Speigal Slab further down to get here

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