Routes as trad in North Jawbone

On the Walking Track Slabs. A short bunch of slabs on the R before leaving the main walking track.

Follow the clean line through the overlap past 2 bolts.

Bloody hard to find. 50m L of Jerry Pot are some short slabs. They are somewhat uphill from the base of Junglescope Buttress. Start at the L most of them, midway between the L arete and a dirty crack, where a reddish streak pierces the moss. Up the streak then go L on easy ground and up the arete.

Mossy

1. 45m Climb the slab a few metres up from Here Catch This.

2. 25m Continue up the slab.

3. 20m Take the less steep break through a series of overlaps.

Varied climb, thin slab. Named after a near disaster on the 1st pitch. On the far L side of Junglescope Buttress is a series of overlaps and slabs formed by the sandstone strata. This takes the fattest slab, that gets narrower as it gets higher to a distinct protruding block.

1. 50m (Crux) Reach the slab and climb it on its L side all the way to a small stance under the overlap and level with the protuding block.

2. 20m R and over the block and up the crack above.Follow this L until it gets easy and you get to the large ledge.

3. 20m Easy to the top.

Enjoyable, especially the top bits. Start near the L edge of the buttress below some bumpy intermittent flakes.

1. 45m The flakes and straight up the the L end of the Junglescope belay ledge.

2. 36m Up the corner on the L to a poor stance.

3. 33m This crack above till it runs out, Traverse L to the arete and up to some flakes. Traverse back R to a tree.

4. 26m The corner above.

This route is described in Rockclimbs Around Melbourne by Glenn Tempest.

A wonderful sustained adventure on perfect brown sandstone. There are various belay possibilities.

1. 40m (13) As for Jerry-Pot.

2. 40m (12) As for Jerry-Pot.

3. 40m (14) Up the thin crack until it runs out. Not far above this is small slot that accepts a 0.5 cam. Step R, then back up L under the overlap and shallow L-facing corner. Up the clean-cut corner and cracks to join the last few metres of Junglescope.

The best route on the buttress. Based on a prominent flake down low and a R facing flake/corner running the middle top third of the buttress with some slabs in between.

1. 48m Up and R to flake in the middle of the buttress. climb this and continue up slabs to the L end of a large ledge.

2. 41m (Crux) Diagonally L for about 6m then up to overlapping flake and a bolt. From the small stance continue up until a step R between prickle bushes gains a small stance.

3. 35m Up and L a bit to a good crack, then flake/corner to ledge on the L (Piton belay)

4. 25m Clean corner and crack to the top.

An excellent and often overlooked pitch.

2a. 48m Follow the thin crack starting from the L end of the ledge. The line eventually trends L to the base of the flake corner. This is where the last pitch of The Mice Were Furious starts

Good lead

1. 48m Start up Junglescope

2. 30m Up the R side of the buttress, belay above a scrubby ledge.

3. 30m Up, keeping L of the gully. Traverse 15m towards the arete and pass over a small overhang.

4. 30m Head upwards.

1. 45m Starts up Junglescope then takes in the better top half of Jerrypot

2. 35m From the bolt at 20m continue diagonally L to a big flake. Follow the crack a few metres to a bush and ledge.

3. 50m Climb diagonally L to a flake near the arete and continue past a rusty piton. Continue on or just R of the arete to a small stance 10m from the top.

4. 10m Up easily.

This route is described in Rockclimbs Around Melbourne by Glenn Tempest.

Superb climbing all the way. Three excellent pitches. Start below the distinctive cricket ball impression on the wall 5m R of Junglescope.

1. 48m (16) Climb straight up the technical slab past 2 FHs to the comfortable Junglescope ledge.

2. 50m (14) Climb the R-curving arch (directly above the belay) for a few metres, then straight up the intermittent cracks and seams on the increasingly delicate slab. Belay across L at the base of the corner as for Junglescope.

3. 32m (17) Climb the slabby grey wall tending up and R to under the middle of the steepening headwall. A few tricky moves over the overlap (FH), then up the final clean wall.

1. 45m (16) Start as for TMWF and follow it for about 20m. When it starts to veer left, veer right following a crack past some small bushes heading for the right end of the Junglescope ledge. Move left along the ledge to belay behind the large bush directly below the centre of the arch at a pocket which takes a large cam.

2. 45m (Project)

3. 50m (Project)

1. 36m, As for Mein Kampf.

2. 15m, Diagonally up left to weakness in the middle of the overhang. Through the overhang to small stance just above. Peg belay.

3. 20m, The line above.

4. 35m, climb diagonally up right for 6m, then up left to a good ledge.

5. 27m, veer right and up to the top.

"Poorly protected, and a waste of time." From 1988 Eastern District Guide and I doubt it has improved with time. Start at the RH edge of Central Buttress.

1. 34m Up to the old bolt on Mein Kampf.

2. 9m Up to a small stance and piton below the overhang.

3. 34m Surmount the overhang then diagonally left into the crack. Up, then left into gully.

4. 27m Grovel up.

5. Continue grovelling.

Described in the 1988 guide as an excellent outing.

1. 34m (8) As for the first pitch of Central Buttress.

2. 12m (9) As for Divect pitch 2.

3. 35m Up

4. 35m Veer rightwards then up on clean rock 4a) 30m (14) Or, climb the slab directly above as for Divect Direct Finish

Easy way to access upper routes.

1. 42m (5) Follow the crack to a small overhang (upper crack has foliage growing). Up a juggy wall and then head slightly R to a small belay stance.

2. 35m (2-3) Up the juggy wall, passing rappel bolts, and on to belay at Gods Ledge.

Finish up The Knob, Travellers Slab, Gregs Direct or Traverse of the Gods*

Links Gods Ledge with the 3rd pitch of Speigals Overhang. Recommend placing gear before stepping out, the 2 bolts (look new) are at the right end of the traverse.

Start from Gods Ledge, 1m left of Travelers Slab. Climb the left edge to the top.

From God's Ledge follow the crack line up diagonally right then straight up the slab to the RHS of the abseil ledge passing a large bush on the right near the top. Not at all well protected. 13 for lack of pro?

Maybe original route. Follow Traveller's slab, through bush or just to its left then straight up the far RHS of the slab. No pro above the bush.

An epic adventure.

1. 25m (10) Same as 'Speigal's Overhang'. If 'Speigal's Overhang' is busy, 'Route One' is another option.

2. 29m (8) Up the crack in the middle until the overhang. Build semi-hanging belay right under it or left into the corner to a ledge. Very vegetated pitch.

3. 20m (17) Up through overhang. Follow two BRs to the second overhang (crux, very stiff for 17). Belay on small stance 2m above and a bit to the left

4. 20m (17) Delicate slab climbing. Traverse left then follow a thin crack to a BR, then straight up and a bit to the right to the 'Traverse of the Gods'. Move right to belay as for Speigal's Overhang. Then several options how to end this climb:

   • 'Xanthene Direct' (16)
   • 'Greg's Direct' (14)
   • 'Speigal's Overhang' (10)

You can link 4th pitch of 'Xanthene' and 'Xanthene Direct' (total linked pitch length of about 65m).

Starts where 'Xanthene' ends.

On the 'Traverse of the Gods', there's a bolt to the left of the route which can be clipped. Otherwise, straight up on slabs with pockets. Small cams in pockets. A lot easier on the 2nd half.

4th pitch of 'Xanthene' can be linked with this route (about 65 m altogether).

Takes the pleasant clean slab between Xanthene and Speigal's Overhang navigating through two overlaps.

Starts from a belay set ~40m up Speigal's Overhang (4m below the bushy stance just short of the first overlap on Speigal's).

Move up and L to climb through the first overlap, direct up the slab and pull through the second overlap. Continue up the slab above till nearing Traverse of the Gods. Here step back right to the belay at the start of the traverse.

Bolts were added by the FA shortly after the first ascent.

1. 30m (10) Start up the slab, some of the protection is poor. Belay from a vertical crack with foliage and dead tree. Good stance behind the tree.

2. 40m (9) Keep going up, climb a small overlap and head up to the large vertical crack. Belay from below the large overlap.

3. 20m (10) From the belay pull up and over the overlap and follow the crack up. Belay options; either from a tree at the start of Traverse of the Gods or head up another 10m to a small ledge with trees.

4. 30m (6) Follow the cracks and to the top.

A link up of Speigal’s Overhang, Traverse of the Gods, and The Bold and The Cold.

Start with Speigal’s for 40m to just past a dead tree at the obvious belay with two parallel cracks. Then another 40m pitch to the tree and obvious belay where Speigal’s meets Traverse of The Gods. You can then either do the traverse and last pitch of The Bold and The Cold as separate pitches or link them together for one 40-50m pitch.

An alternative to the 2nd pitch of Whiteline Fever.

1. 40m (17) As for Whiteline Fever.

2. 50m (18) Move right and climb the slab and overlap between Speigal's Overhang and Whiteline Fever (5 BRs) to a chain near the top.

Up right of the start of Speigal's Overhang at a recessed slab under a series of overhangs. Note that the 2nd pitch is a bit bold.

1. 40 m (17) Climb the slab and exit thru the first overlap on the left then up the easy slab. Move left to belay as for the 2nd pitch of SO.

2. 49m (18) Head back out right to the first crack in the overlap. Over this and up the slab above to the bottom right hand corner of the next overlap. Cams protect the moves up onto the final unprotected slab, finishing with a thin crack.

Up the centre flake until its top, then delicately traverse left over the slab, pull up and left through the roof (crux), then continue left through more delicate slab moves to the next corner, and up easily from there. Descent involves scrambling UP the steep gulley behind the top of the climb to a trail that leads under Odd Wall (K. Y. Jelly area) and then North and down to the American Dream area. Alternatively, with double ropes it is possible to leave a sling over the pinnacle at the top and rappel the 40m to the ground.

Up the arete 1m right of Fruit Hustler, staying on the arête after you pass the tree, all the way up to where it meets the Fruit Hustler flake.

Up the arête 1m right of Fruit Hustler. From the tree, swing out left and follow the crack on the slab. Claimed to be a better option than the original finish to Babel Fish.

On the vertical section of rock left of Snakes Belly. Start bottom left below the break in the sedimentary layers. Head up and right underneath the roof until you reach the cleft. Pull through the roof (avoid vegetated ledge to your right) and then direct to the top. Looks a little chossy and contrived but the rock is solid and the climbing is engaging. Protection is great if you have a couple of micro cams to protect the first half.

Starts in the corner left of Kiwi Express, then joins up with Low Act.