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Description:

An epic adventure.

  1. 25m (10) Same as 'Speigal's Overhang'. If 'Speigal's Overhang' is busy, try 'Route One'.

  2. 29m (12) Since the crack in the middle is overgrown, this pitch is a bit runout for its grade. Go right at the big crack in the middle until the overhang. Build semi-hanging belay right under it. (The guide recommends to go left into the corner to a ledge, but everything's totally overgrown there; good luck with the spiky bushes!)

  3. 20m (19) Go through overhang left-hand side of the hanging belay. Follow two BRs to the second overhang. Crux with a surprise! Belay on small stance 2m above and a bit to the left of the crux. (The guide suggests a grade 17 here; yes, sure, if you have a wingspan of 2m+…)

  4. 20m (17) Delicate slab climbing, a bit runout. Follow a thin crack a bit to the left to a BR, then straight up and a bit to the right to the 'Traverse of the Gods'. Then several options how to end this climb:

You can link 4th pitch of 'Xanthene' and 'Xanthene Direct' (total linked pitch length of about 65 m).

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Doug Hatt & Rodney Coles, 1963

Location:  

Located in North Jawbone approx:
Lat/Long: -37.382735,145.742879

Route Grade Citations

17 Community registered grade
17 Pocket RockGUIDE: Melbourne's Best
17 ** Eastern District Guide
19 ***Bernd Schiffer

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 73%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

struggle crank crux sustained tough hard super fun rad fantastic good great superb awesome runout tricky feet interesting epic roof easy traverse lip crack

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Activity Configure

Check out what is happening on Xanthene (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.