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Description

Outcrop of rock in the Belanglo State Forest. Good long route on OK rock and small snappy boulderss with face climbing. Routes are described from the far right side of the crag back to the descent path.

Approach

Located just outside of Berrima. Exit the Hume Highway at the Belanglo sign. (Cross the highway if coming from Sydney, if you hit Sutton Forrest McDonalds you have gone to far.) Drive past the Gordon VC rest area and onto the good dirt track. (Belanglo Road.) Contine through Forest for a cople of KMs. Once you have passed Dailys Road rest area on the right take the second fire trail on the left. If you reach the Cherry Tree Road and the horse farm you have gone one road to far.

Drive down the fire trail, straight across the first junction and the second juction (Dogleg and a bit bumpy.) Join Cherry Tree Firebreak and wind down this for 5 minutes until you reach the turning circle at the end.

Park here and follow the path and cairns down hill for 2 minues until you reach the cliff. Approach through boulders to the right.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
17 Bone Machine Sport 8m, 5

Step off the large boulder (or off the ground if you have fingers of steal). Balance up the areve and finish at shared anchors. Short. First route on the small boulder at the bottom of the descent gully

FA: Matt Tranter, 2011

Areas

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Sector 1 Cliff
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Routes

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Grade Route
3
15 John Doe Sport 9m, 4

Snappy bottom , up two small ledges to the Gritstone finish. Much harder if you stay out of the crack First route on The Boulder.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2011

4
15 Hitching a Ride Trad 10m

One hard move over the lip and it is all over. Bring those large sea gull bashers. Trad crack at the far left end of the Block, next to the descent path.

FA: Stephan Pervanoglu, 2011

5
17 Shallow Grave Sport 11m, 5

1m right of the trad crack.Pull over the lip and trend left. The second block.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2011

6

As the name suggests, get deep in that crack. Wobble without much protection using both walls and exit to the bolts at the top of the crag. The second trad crack on this face.

FA: Stephan Pervanoglu, 2000

7
18 A Murder of Crows Sport 10m, 6

Off balance, mean and thugish. use anything you like, twist and turn, pull through the bands, finish at the right hand anchors. Start 1 metre right of Shallow Grave.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2011

8
22 * The Hatchet Sport 12m, 6

Hard pull from a three finger slot. Up the features to the large ledge. Bouldery and very balancy finish. The last line of bolts on this side of the block.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2011

9
22 ** The Danse Macabre Sport 12m, 7

Hard pull off the big jugs, trend left to a large rest ledge. Two cruxes follow, join the finger pockets and stretch as tall as possible. Shared start with Dodging Bullets.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2011

10
21 * Dodging Bullets Sport 12m

Nice heaving on big holds to balancy moves to gain stance then some trickiness to triple bolt anchors. Under cut start left hand side of wall facing the gorge

FA: Simon Vaughan

11
23 ** Close to the Bone Sport 12m

Heave up jug start then balancy and surprisingly powerful 4 move traverse, then straight up Start as for Dodging Bullets then move right Steep and then balancy climbing on great rock, firction is superb from Autumn onwards

FA: Simon Vaughan

12
20 * One Fatal Blow Sport 12m, 6

Up corner with interest to an airy finish on the headwall In the corner around to the right of the main wall as you face the cliff The corner is hard and 3D to get up and the headwall is steeper than you think

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2011

13

Share the start with the previous climb. Still needs one more bolt to go directly to the lower offs. Going to be really hard as all the holds run out.

Start: 2 metres further right