A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. The Kimberley 36 routes in Area

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 125.670034, -16.476812

1.1. Buccaneer Archipelago 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 123.823759, -16.242108

1.1.1. Yumpi Sound 2 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Just A Morsel 17Unknown 10m
2 The Piccaninny 11Unknown 25m

1.1.2. Mermaid Island 5 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Boar Hole 13Unknown 15m
2 T-Bone 14Unknown 15m
3 T-Bone Alternative Start 15Unknown 15m
4 Four Crabs a' Flying 12Unknown 15m
5 At The Office 12Unknown 15m

1.1.3. Cleft Islands 2 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Palette 12Unknown 60m
2 Ephemeral Logic 12Unknown 50m

1.2. Napier Range 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jundamarra' Lookout 11Unknown 50m
2 Jundamarra's Escape Route 13Unknown 50m

1.3. Bell Gorge DWS 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Deep Water

Long/Lat: 125.203482, -16.991982

Description:

Deep Water soloing above in the gorge pools, a fair amount of potential for some serious DWS, in a totally amazing and special location.

Approach:

Walk down the tourist trail into Bell Gorge.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tourist pool problem

Climbs the attractive wall just R of the tourist pool waterfall. The problem (V4), is getting out of the water (impossible to use chalk) - and some harder direct starts could be done. From the very far LH end of the 'underwater' ledge you can walk out on, make a bouldery traverse left until you get to the easier section, then follow contrived wall diagonally right to top out just over rooflet. Very nice climbing though.

FA: Goshen Watts, 2014

23DWS 10m
2 Middle Pool layback

Great climbing up the middle of the West face of the middle pool, which avoids most of the tourists. You can do a dry start by doing some very interesting and tricky traversing from either side. Great moves up layback holds, a great safe DWS for the grade.

FA: Goshen Watts, 2014

19DWS 15m

1.4. Manning Gorge DWS 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Deep Water

Long/Lat: 125.925011, -16.655224

Description:

Smack bang in the middle of the Gibb River road is Manning Gorge and campground, with a really nice compact cliff right there, with great rock on the upper section.

Check the depth first - if the water is clear, you can see all the boulders deep in the water from the top of the cliff, which is really off-putting, but most of them are safely deep - just check where they are first, and do a test jump from halfway to see how far down you go.

If you do walk up to the main gorge and waterfall (2.5km walk), there's some fun climbing underneath that too, depending on how much water is coming over, and a bit of interesting traversing downstream too.

https://vimeo.com/109425146

Video is mostly of 'Open Book Corner', taken from above. Short filmed for the Vertical Film Festival 2014.

Approach:

Just 200m upstream from the camping area. Obvious ledge to traverse around from - most climbs start from this halfway traverse line, as the bulge is completely blank.

Descent Notes:

Easy walk down.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Waterwashed Traverse

Pumpy, low level traverse across solid and waterwashed rock. Go all the way right and step down to boulder in the water, then head back on the lower line.

FA: Goshen Watts, 2014

21DWS 20m
2 Manning Slab

This is the first obvious (and safe) climb from the starting traverse ledge. Mantle up to arete, then climb just left of arete to final short slab.

FA: Goshen Watts, 2014

19DWS 10m
3 * Whitewall Overhang

Really nice climbing, except for the loose block at the headwall. Hard, reachy move left from block (can use lower hold), left across face to arete. Could be done direct.

FA: Goshen Watts, 2014

23DWS 12m
4 ** Open Book corner

Great climb, in the best position on the wall. Traverse out right, and straight up the corner.

FA: Goshen Watts, 2014

21DWS 12m
5 Hanging corner horror

Actually quite good, and easier than appearances might suggest. Overhangs enough to avoid boulder at the base (but check for yourself first). Traverse out as for OBC, but keep going, then straight up hanging corner, then hand traverse back left to finish up loose blocks. A direct finish might be possible.

FA: Goshen Watts, 2014

22DWS 15m

1.5. Cockburn Range East 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 128.043399, -15.906416

Description:

The Cockburn ranges is home to a very impressive cliffline, approx 100m high that runs for hundreds of km's around the whole range. Looks very impressive and 'clean' from a distance, but despite good looking lines, closer inspection reveals huge amounts of loose blocks and very little in the way of natural protection!

However, this small area was found that has some potential for a dozen or so cleaner climbs. If this remote area has you excited to do some climbing, this cliff is well worth a visit. Could definitely do with some bolts, and a rap anchor or two, but it wasn't going to be up to me if there should, or should not be bolts on this cliff-line. It's possible to do them without.

Approach:

Drive exactly 3km east of the El-Questro Township turnoff. Look for a recessed cliff with a dry waterfall (during the dry). Park near small floodway, and wind your way up the creek, which gradually becomes an awesome boulder choked gully. Upon reaching the obvious cave below the cliff (takes about 45mins), climb up left to tall cave about 20m uphill from the wide descent chasm / gully.

Descent Notes:

Descent from these climbs is problematic. Leave an anchor to rap from for the day, or do an easy pitch to the top of the cliff and descend via the gully. Author rapped of a 'micro tree' into cave, but this is probably not recommended.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cave Crack

Attractive LH crack just inside cave, good gear, getting a little thinner when the crack runs out. Block at 2/3 height is more solid than it looks.

FA: Goshen Watts, 2014

17Trad 25m
2 Clean Streak

A nice clean face, with some very good sustained climbing, although could do with a bolt at the first bulge, technically only 21. Take wires, and small to med cams. Up stepped R facing corner (3m R of main corner) up this to ledge. Climb straight over bulge and into the line (a 'hidden' #1 wire was pre-placed for the FA). Great climbing up the line with adequate protection, right up until a left facing corner ends at a roof. Traverse left to good belay ledge (although it may be possible to climb the increasingly loose face above to the top of the cliff).

FA: Goshen Watts, 2014

22Trad 30m

1.6. Kununurra 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Boulder and Trad

Long/Lat: 128.744999, -15.804239

Description:

These climbs may be on Kelly's Knob - the sunset lookout in Kununurra.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fig Tree Crack 18Boulder 13m
2 Speargrass 22Unknown 13m
3 Goblin 16Unknown 13m
4 Don't Call Me Petal 18Unknown 18m
5 To The Right Of The Moon 16Unknown 90m
6 To The Left Of To The Right OF 16Unknown 80m
7 Solstice 17Unknown 90m
8 Bats In Cracks 17Unknown 75m
9 Go Left 18Boulder 90m
10 Crocodile Smiles 18Unknown 60m
11 Crocodile Kisses 16Unknown 80m

1.6.1. Carlton Ridge / Elephant Rock 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 128.749227, -15.816387

Description:

Also known as Elephant Rock, this thin ridgeline is several hundred metres long, and up to 200m high. From a distance, this cliff looks a bit like Arapiles. But on closer inspection, it really is 300ft of muck!

Approach:

Drive out the road to the racecourse, but turn left at the T intersection and drive down about 500m. Take the sand track on the R, which leads around to the base of the cliff. The RHS of the cliff-line, not far from where you park, there are some nice looking lines that could be ok after some cleaning. The route listed here is an adventure route that finds a weakness to the top of major East cliff, and although it is not really recommended, perhaps other climbers might like to know that something has been done up this face.

Descent Notes:

Descent route from the East face is unknown, but look for some gullies / trees to rap from before you climb, or you can scramble down from either end of Carlton Ridge.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gingerly to Carlton Ridge

Cross fence and walk down sandy horse track for roughly 300m, as you near the cliff again, look for a large scree slope covered in spinifex, with some 'steeper' lines on it's lower, RHS. The climb takes the large diagonal line, that looks more obvious from a distance and entirely unappealing close up!

  1. 45m, 14. Climb slab, to overhang/bulge then up on the RHS into the 'crack'. Follow this for another 25m or so until a good stance.

  2. 15m, 10. Continue up past (or next to) some very large and loose blocks and up nose, then into wide left leaning crack to a belay ledge.

  3. 15m, 12. Up the line, aiming for a large hanging tree and tricky finish.

  4. 15m Scramble to top.

FA: Goshen Watts, 2014

14Trad 90m

1.7. King George River 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 127.321686, -14.042093

1.7.1. Waterfalls 4 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 127.321588, -14.041893

Description:

Upstream to waterfalls in King George River

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Big Loose Corner

FA: Russell Ford, Glynis Macdonald

20Trad 80m
2 ** Kimberley Quest

FFA: Russell Ford, Glynis Macdonald

FA: Russell Ford, Glynis Macdonald

FA: Russell Ford, Glynis Macdonald

17Trad 95m
3 ** Racing the Sun(Direct)

FFA: Russell Ford

FA: Russell Ford

FA: Russell Ford, Glynis Macdonald

22Trad 95m
4 * Racing the Sun

FA: Russell Ford, Glynis Macdonald

19Trad 95m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
11 The Piccaninny Unknown 25m 1.1.1. Yumpi Sound
Jundamarra' Lookout Unknown 50m 1.2. Napier Range
12 At The Office Unknown 15m 1.1.2. Mermaid Island
Four Crabs a' Flying Unknown 15m 1.1.2. Mermaid Island
Ephemeral Logic Unknown 50m 1.1.3. Cleft Islands
Palette Unknown 60m 1.1.3. Cleft Islands
13 Boar Hole Unknown 15m 1.1.2. Mermaid Island
Jundamarra's Escape Route Unknown 50m 1.2. Napier Range
14 T-Bone Unknown 15m 1.1.2. Mermaid Island
Gingerly to Carlton Ridge Trad 90m 1.6.1. Carlton Ridge / Elephant Rock
15 T-Bone Alternative Start Unknown 15m 1.1.2. Mermaid Island
16 Crocodile Kisses Unknown 80m 1.6. Kununurra
Goblin Unknown 13m 1.6. Kununurra
To The Left Of To The Right OF Unknown 80m 1.6. Kununurra
To The Right Of The Moon Unknown 90m 1.6. Kununurra
17 Just A Morsel Unknown 10m 1.1.1. Yumpi Sound
Cave Crack Trad 25m 1.5. Cockburn Range East
Bats In Cracks Unknown 75m 1.6. Kununurra
Solstice Unknown 90m 1.6. Kununurra
** Kimberley Quest Trad 95m 1.7.1. Waterfalls
18 Crocodile Smiles Unknown 60m 1.6. Kununurra
Don't Call Me Petal Unknown 18m 1.6. Kununurra
Fig Tree Crack Boulder 13m 1.6. Kununurra
Go Left Boulder 90m 1.6. Kununurra
19 Middle Pool layback DWS 15m 1.3. Bell Gorge DWS
Manning Slab DWS 10m 1.4. Manning Gorge DWS
* Racing the Sun Trad 95m 1.7.1. Waterfalls
20 Big Loose Corner Trad 80m 1.7.1. Waterfalls
21 ** Open Book corner DWS 12m 1.4. Manning Gorge DWS
Waterwashed Traverse DWS 20m 1.4. Manning Gorge DWS
22 Hanging corner horror DWS 15m 1.4. Manning Gorge DWS
Clean Streak Trad 30m 1.5. Cockburn Range East
Speargrass Unknown 13m 1.6. Kununurra
** Racing the Sun(Direct) Trad 95m 1.7.1. Waterfalls
23 Tourist pool problem DWS 10m 1.3. Bell Gorge DWS
* Whitewall Overhang DWS 12m 1.4. Manning Gorge DWS